Jump to content

CAT Stephen

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    129

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

 Content Type 

Posts posted by CAT Stephen

    AC Recharge

    in AC, Heating, and Cooling

    Posted · Edited by CAT Stephen

    11 hours ago, Venturer said:

    When I checked on it this morning, the pressures were equal at around 65 psi which to me, indicates no major leak. When engine started and AC engaged, the high settled near 75 but the low was below 10. The OAT was near 50 degrees. It's supposed to be 77 tomorrow and will check it then.  

    @Venturer,

    Thanks for the pressure and ambient temperature report Doug.  Now the troubleshooting begins:

    AC Recharge

    in AC, Heating, and Cooling

    Posted · Edited by CAT Stephen

    @Venturer (Doug),

     

    Your understanding is correct that your high side and low side will eventually equalize.  The equalization can take up to 12 hours in some cases and less than 10 minutes in other cases.  These static pressures (i.e. pressures when the system is not running) are not useful except when both sides are at zero pressure.

    Here is the official R134a universal Pressure / Temperature chart to use when charging your dash AC:

    • 2965132d1582093603-whats-your-shop-walls

    Here are key procedures for you to follow when charging your AC properly:

    - Before starting the recharge process,

    • Insure that you have quick access to a minimum of ~ 5 gallons of hot water from your RV or home water heater. This water should be ~120F-140F.  
    • All automotive and truck/bus dash based HVAC systems are checked and charged at engine idle speed.  Thus, there is no need for high idle. 

    - Don't attempt to charge your system below 75F degrees as it is much more time consuming due compressor frequently cycling on and off  which makes it difficult to stabilize systems pressures.  

    - Set your dash AC to "Max"

    - Set your dash AC temperature to the coldest setting

    - Check your pressures only after your compressor has engaged for 15-20 seconds to give ample time for the high and low pressures to stabilize

    - Start adding R134a refrigerant SLOWLY while watching your low pressure gage, keeping the can upright to prevent the compressor from ingesting liquid refrigerant ONLY when the compressor is running.  You will notice an initial spike in pressure on the low side which will begin to trail off as the refrigerant is transferred from the canister.  When the spike decreases significantly, lower the refrigerant canister into the hot water.

    • NEVER risk destroying your compressor by turning the can upside down as that WILL inject liquid refrigerant on the low side which may, in some cases result in AC compressor destruction.  Take heed of the warning from @cbr046 and I.
    • While adding refrigerant, lower the refrigerant can into the hot water mentioned earlier to help the remaining refrigerant vaporize while the canister is upright.  Be prepared to change out your hot water 2-3 times per canister to completely evacuate all remaining refrigerant from the canister

    Please share your pressure differentials and ambient (outdoor) temperature in this thread.  If they are vastly outside the ranges (i.e. 80F ambient temperature with 25 PSI Low and 200 PSI High), there are other issues in your system.  What is common with diesel pushers is some variation from the standard R134A P/T charts due to the vast lengths of the refrigerant lines between the engine's AC compressor and the dash evaporator.

    As @cbr046 also mentioned, a 30F differential between ambient and you dash air output is excellent.   

     

    • Like 1

    Outdoor light near entry door.

    in Electrical Systems

    Posted

    Richard,

     

    This item has a high probability of providing the lens than you need.  No company has a SKU for a lens only, so if this lens does not work for you, you can replace the entire light unit:

    AC Recharge

    in AC, Heating, and Cooling

    Posted

    Doug,

    Recharge kits are dangerous because you don't know the pressure on the high side.  The only way to properly troubleshoot R134A dash air issues is to purchase or rent an R134A manifold gauge set so that you can see what is going on inside your system.

    Safety is your first priority because skin and eyes exposed to refrigerant can cause permanent blindness and severe frostbite.  Carefully review R134A refrigeration procedures and wear PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) including goggles, heavy rubber gloves, and thick protective clothing to avoid potential injury.

     

    Here is the R134a manifold set that I recommend and use for troubleshooting and recharging my dash AC:

    - https://www.amazon.com/Robinair-49134A-Aluminum-Manifold-Couplers/dp/B004QA7MAQ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=280KN8ZD4HLKX&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.niWEEk7ybVGXv1I5FktRIICq-Xw6UbOkBLRkQLwZhpIRVXC8jGjMYdaWRkwtdY0bQVYCp4chFrJk40Ub4D_QbIf93om1BF7f_L2FRcjj93vAf8FKZuEUXqtazobzrZbLaHZBLbX4L7r32FqdR5iWwSsaQH0hpJKTJU22Ji07w99ENhrZ1NWM7EeHERC7g8mBSbAr1SdHhHmspNDtHE68n9xQsS8nlG826ATz0AQbck3RJs6cPYddPiYgVILDPYCxKm6QYnSTyaAKjrbwZvnvE8ninvLdxmgZ1UfY1S3bpZk.styWWQziatFT9W-ygmHZX71dLOJKtDQgOsrIr3ZDOYo&dib_tag=se&keywords=r134%2Bmanifold%2Bgauge%2Bset&qid=1715285365&sprefix=R134%2Bmanifold%2B%2Caps%2C186&sr=8-5&th=1

    2012 LaPalma 32sbd Lithium Upgrade

    in Batteries

    Posted

    21 hours ago, JDPenn said:

    All to be determined. What do you recommend?

    Thanks JD,

     

    Inverter:

    • I would strongly recommend the Victron 12V MultiPlus-II 3kVA 2x120V Inverter/Charger for your application:

    DC to DC charger:

    • You may use any brand / model.  But, if you desire accurate energy measurements via shunts, the the DC to DC charger must be an isolated version.  Here is the isolated DC to DC charger that I recommend:
      • https://www.currentconnected.com/product/victron-orion-smart-tr-dc-dc-charger/
      • A DC to DC charger is only needed if you desire to charge your house battery band from your engine alternator
      • You may purchase multiple Victron Energy DC to DC chargers then wire in parallel for increasing the DC to DC charging capacity, but verify that you will not exceed your alternators rated output to avoid a very expensive alternator replacement

    Shunts:

    House Battery Bank:

    System Controller:

     

    What I did not Include:

    • There are many miscellaneous proprietary and standard cables needed for the complete installation.  I can help you with those details after you complete your selection of components above and after you finalize the locations for your inverter, house battery bank, DC to DC charger, and power distribution.
    • We will need to further understand your use case to determine if LiPO4 battery heaters will be required in cold weather
    • Like 1

    2012 LaPalma 32sbd Lithium Upgrade

    in Batteries

    Posted · Edited by CAT Stephen

    JD,

     

    One more question since you do not currently have an inverter:

    - Do you plan on adding an inverter in the future?  If you do:

    • - What is the rated maximum running output of your future inverter?
    • - What is the rated maximum surge output of your future inverter?

    2012 LaPalma 32sbd Lithium Upgrade

    in Batteries

    Posted

    Hello JD,

    I can help you spec out the right components for your needs if you can answer the following questions:

    - What is the rated maximum output of your current coach engine alternator in amps?

    - What is the nominal voltage of your current coach engine alternator? 

    - What is the nominal voltage of your current house battery system?

    - What is the rated maximum output of your current generator in kilowatts?

    - What is the rated maximum running output of your current inverter?

    - What is the rated maximum surge output of your current inverter?

    - Do you have soft-starters installed for your rooftop air conditioners

    - How many rooftop air conditioners are installed on your coach?

    - What is the house Amp-Hour battery capacity that are you seeking?

    - What are the dimensions for the area that will hold your future LiPO4 house batteries (Length X Width X Height)?

    Norcold 1200 refrigerator is Not Cooling - I bet you've never heard that before :)

    in Appliances

    Posted · Edited by CAT Stephen

    14 hours ago, Bill C said:

    Been doing some research, found a new Norcold for $4k, cheaper than any other place I have found,

    Here is the link:

    https://www.dyersonline.com/norcold-ultraline-12-cu-ft-side-by-side-refrigerator.html?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shoppingengine&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhtWvBhD9ARIsAOP0Goiia65Zro7ZhXQZXz9quR0iN0jjcOFtOzpitwzSrWDN2EB0spUNlBIaAnlDEALw_wcB

    Bill, your cooling unit has a slow pinhole refrigerant leak which is severely hindering your cooling units capacity to cool.  I have been through that once and there is no fixing that issue as only a few RV shops in the country have the capability to recharge a cooling unit.  You could decide to purchase the new refrigerator above, but be warned that Norcold OEM cooling units are very poor quality with very thin cooling unit tubing which fail quickly. Thus, Norcold OEM cooling units are a fire hazard.

    The aftermarket JC Refrigeration cooling units are very high quality and have exceptionally thick cooling unit tubing thickness.  All cooling units will experience boiler damage if they are EVER ran out of level which results in corrosion which leads to refrigerator fires, thus I also suggest that you add an ARP boiler monitoring system for your new cooling unit for an additional $196.  The ARP monitor turns off your boiler before damage occurs then automatically turns on your boiler aggain when the temperature drops to the normal boiler operating range.  Order Kit #2 from here: https://www.arprv.com/purchase.php

    Just so that you know, I own a 23 year old Norcold 1200LRIM refrigerator with a new cooling unit from JC Refrigeration in 2021 with an ARP boiler monitor.  In 100 degree outdoor temperatures, My freezer runs at -2F and my refrigerator runs at 33 degrees with ample additional adjustment to run cooler due to the tremendous additional efficiency of the JC Refrigeration cooling unit.

    Your ultimate decision moving forward depends upon your use case. 

    • If you camp off-grid and do not have solar and you don't like running your generator daily to charge your existing house batteries to run a replacement residential refrigerator, then stay with your existing Norcold and have your Norcold's existing cooling unit replaced with a JC Refrigeration (i.e. Amish) cooling unit.  This will cost you $1445 for the cooling unit plus $300 labor if you have JC Refrigeration install for you on-site in Indiana, and $196 for an ARP boiler monitor.  If you elect to have others install, plan on $500-$700 for the cooling unit install.
    • If you are on-grid nearly full time, then seriously consider a residential refrigerator as a replacement as they are much lower cost than replacing your cooling unit.  But, if your furnace is located directly below your refrigerator, then you will be very limited on residential refrigerator capacity. 

    1999 Windsor. Brake Light Deactivation question & TOAD Brakes....Comments?

    in Engine, Transmission, Engine Cooling, & Hydraulics

    Posted

    13 minutes ago, Oilcan said:

    I would like to know if any one has disconnected the brake lights from the exhaust brake on our 99 windsor when the floor switch is used for the exhaust break it also activates the brske lights which activates the brake ststem on the toad I would like to eliminate this as I dont want the toad brakes activating when using the exhaust brake only when actually using the brakes so far I havent looked into the exhaust brake switch to see if I can figure out which wire to disconnect of cut off was wondering if anyone had some info on this ir what they did to address this issue thanks oilcan

    William,

     

    When the exhaust brake engages, so must your toad brakes engage to prevent extreme pressure on your towbar.  Exhaust braking produces the same action as your friction brakes.

    • Haha 1

    Review: $220 Powerking Navitrac Bus Tires - 275X70R22.5

    in Tires & Wheels

    Posted

    6 hours ago, 1nolaguy said:

    CAT Stephen, Thank you for posting this information. While some may say 50 miles is not enough for a solid review, Unless none of them were at highway speeds I am confident in your assessment. If there were an issue (save for premature wear or deterioration) it would show up early. I am currently just over 5 years with the 6 Michelin X-line Energy tires that cost me over $6K. They are already showing sidewall issues and I will find out tomorrow if Michelin is going to cover their replacement under warranty or not. If their answer is "NO" I can see no reason to spend more money on their product. I will be giving these a serious consideration.

    Yes, ~44 miles of the review were on a concrete interstate highway at speeds between 60mph and 75mph with ~5 interstate miles through a construction zone with uneven pavement to push the tires tracking capability to the maximum.  There were also numerous expansion joints on this interstate in poor condition which tested the tires impact absorption to the extreme.  I am very pleased with the exceptional smoothness and impact absorption of TBC Power King Navitrac NRS20.

    • Like 1

    Review: $220 Powerking Navitrac Bus Tires - 275X70R22.5

    in Tires & Wheels

    Posted

    6 hours ago, Jim McFarland said:

    CAT Stephen have you ever rode on the Michelin tires?  I've heard of Hercules tires but never have rode on any of them.

    Jim

    Jim,

    I use Michelin Defenders on all of my passenger vehicles and they are incredibly smooth and have long treadlife, but I have not used the Michelin brand on my coach due to the high cost.

    • Like 1

    Review: $220 Powerking Navitrac Bus Tires - 275X70R22.5

    in Tires & Wheels

    Posted · Edited by CAT Stephen
    Modified Title

    I made the decision to replace my six tires recently on my Holiday Rambler 38WDD coach. 

    My full disclosure is:

    - I am not affiliated in any capacity with the tire industry.

    - This review was created on my own accord without compensation or other influence

     

    This tire review is for your benefit and consideration if you are in the market for replacing your coach tires and your parameters fit well to the parameters specified:

    - Tire Size is 275-70-R22.5

    - Ride quality is the highest priority

    - Seeking superior stone ejection capability over my baseline tires that I am replacing (Hercules Strong RA) 

    - Willing to sacrifice warranty quality for lower tire cost as I always age out coach tires before I wear out coach tires 

    - Willing to use offshore manufactured tires for lower cost

    - Tire Type: Unidirectional (i.e. steer and drive) to enable rotation between all six (6) tires  

     

    I investigated every tire on the market available in the size specified.   After ~1 month of reviewing all available tires in the target size, I selected the PowerKing Navitrac N346 (relabeled in 2024 as the PowerKing Navitrac NRS20) from the TBC Brands Tire Company based upon:

    - Excellent reliability of PowerKing tires that I have used previously for my tandem axle boat trailer application, while incurring substantial ride quality risk as there were no reviews that I could find on this tire for either trucking, bus, or RV applications of this tire. 

    - Observation that the tread is exceptionally deep and tapered that should theoretically provide better stone ejection than the baseline Hercules Strong RA tires which have much shallower tread that is not significantly tapered.

    - Observation that this tire is also targeted to the passenger bus market which should theoretically provide better ride quality than tires targeted only for the trucking market.

    - My Cost:

    • $220.00 each plus $32.51 FET (Federal Excise Tax)

    -Product Information (See Page 6):

    - Warranty:

     

    Here is my review after ~50 miles in service on the six (6) new PowerKing Navitrac NRS20 tires :

    - The ride quality is now exceptional and very smooth compared to my prior Hercules Strong RA tires.

    - After driving ~1000 feet on a crushed stone road, I observed the tires to be stone free.

    - The handling of these tires is less stiff than the Hercules Strong RA.  Thus the reaction of steering feel is now much more muted and softer.

     

     

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

    Equalize Lifeline 4D AGM Batteries

    in Batteries

    Posted

    Frank,

    Lead acid equalization should only be executed on one battery bank at a time and the bank being equalized should be monitored carefully.  Some coaches have automatic battery bank combiners.  If your coach has an automatic battery bank combiner, you should disconnect the house side of your combiner from your house battery band before attempting the house battery bank equalization.  

×
×
  • Create New...