CAT Stephen

When the ATS is properly functioning, it should bond L1 & L2 under generator operation as the generator should have a single phase (i.e. L1) output.  I'm not certain as you did not specify what on-board generator that you have.

From what you have described and troubleshooted thus far, the most probable failure mode is that the ATS is defective.

1 hour ago, Joint Venture said:

I recently had 1200 watts (6 200watt panels) of solar installed on roof, a Victron Smartsolar 150/100 charge controller installed, a Victron multiplus 2 3000watt inverter installed, a Victron smart shunt and misc wiring/components installed. So far it appears to be working well. I'm now considering having installed a DC to DC 30A charger for the two 270AH lithium 8D batteries. Good idea?

Since you are using shunts it is absolutely critical that you utilize ISOLATED DC to DC chargers so that your shunt readings will be accurate.  Renogy does not make isolated DC to DC chargers, but Victron Energy makes a mix of isolated and non-isolated DC to DC chargers.  

In your shunt use case, you should only consider purchasing Victron Energy ISOLATED DC to DC Chargers.

Lance,

Your 1998 Monaco Dynasty is 120VAC single phase.  The photos you provided confirms that you have all plumbing and electrical required to run 120VAC compact washer and dryer appliances. 

The only washer and dryer units that will fit your space are the "compact" size which measure  24"W x 23"D for each unit.   Be very careful before considering compact dryers deeper than 23" depth (many on the market are deeper than 23" which may prevent you from attachaching the dryer vent).  For compact washers, you can go beyond 23", but you must verify that you have sufficient room to the supply hoses and drain hoses.

You must attach the appliances to the RV to prevent damage to the appliances.  Your existing shelf does not have the structural integrity to support a standalone dryer so be prepared to reinforce that shelf or remove the shelf entirely then purchase or build a support structure.  Most non-mobile appliances were not made to attach to anything as they are freestanding, so be ready for an attachment subproject if you utilize compact appliances not intended for mobile use. 

Here are some options for your consideration.  In all cases, buy the extended warranty as almost all these units except the first unit were not made for mobile use:

- The most compact combo unit made for mobile use (Single unit washer & dryer in one), but low capacity: Splendid WFL1300XD http://www.splendide.com/portfolio-details_WFL1300XD.html

- Conventional compact (stackable) washers and dryers: Not all these will fit due due to dryer depth beyond 23":

    - https://www.homedepot.com/b/Appliances-Washers-Dryers-Laundry-Centers/Compact/Electric/N-5yc1vZc3oxZ1z0posyZ1z1bjys?onDisplay=false

    - https://www.lowes.com/pl/Shop-appliance-special-values/1015369011?int_cmp=Home%3AA1%3AAppliances%3APromo%3AFW29_23_Appliance&catalog=4294857981&refinement=2978381694,4294930999,4294883444,4294964369,4294964406,4294963418,4294883772,1510253409119,1721241396430,4294553830,4294570313

My personal favorite combo from the above selection is the LG ThinQ compact series because they have a stacking kit and a 10 year drive warranty.  I have personally experienced excellent reliability with my existing household LG washer and dryer.  The dryer below has an integral ventless system.  This ventless system utilized two (2) heat pumps instead of electric induction to provide heat with all moisture collected and ejected as condensation into your existing drain:

- https://www.lowes.com/pd/LG-Front-Load-Washer-with-Steam-Cycle-White-ENERGY-STAR/5001643625

- https://www.lowes.com/pd/LG-4-2-cu-ft-Side-swing-Electric-Dryer-White-ENERGY-STAR/5001643699

If you purchase a conventional dryer that does not have an integral ventless system with condensate separation, then I strongly recommend that you vent the dryer to the outside.  Here are the steps:

- Purchase a stud finder with both metal stud detection and 120VAC detection such as this product: https://www.amazon.com/Stud-Finder-Wall-Scanner-Microprocessor/dp/B0C4Q3XJ94/ref=sr_1_5?crid=P8XYE61JOAFC&keywords=stud%2Bfinder&qid=1693358012&sprefix=stud%2Bfinder%2Caps%2C108&sr=8-5&th=1

- Purchase an inspection bore scope such as this product: https://www.amazon.com/Daxiongmao-Borescope-Endoscope-Waterproof-Inspection/dp/B0C3R381FC/ref=sr_1_6?crid=IFMPM66MWH4D&keywords=inspection+camera&qid=1693357433&sprefix=inspection+camera%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-6

- Purchase a Dryer Vent kit: https://www.amazon.com/Westland-VI422-Standard-Dryer-Vent/dp/B003VAT5AM/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3MFKQRTGT7CU5&keywords=dryer+vent+kit&qid=1693357806&sprefix=dryer+vent+kit%2Caps%2C111&sr=8-8

- Purchase clear or white Geocel ProflexRV sealant (Do not use silicone!!): https://www.amazon.com/Geocel-GC28100-Flex-Flexible-Clear/dp/B001FC98X2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1VE3J6NGY7S3X&keywords=prorv%2Bsealant&qid=1693358161&sprefix=prorv%2B%2Caps%2C109&sr=8-3&th=1

- Purchase a 4.25" hole saw such as: https://www.amazon.com/Qjaiune-Bi-Metal-Smoothly-Cornhole-Fiberboard/dp/B089GXHVJ9/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1K300U6S3EO8L&keywords=dryer%2Bvent%2Bhole%2Bsaw&qid=1693358380&sprefix=dryer%2Bvent%2Bhole%2Bsaw%2Caps%2C123&sr=8-7&th=1

- With your rig attached to shore power, use a stud finder to locate the optimal point where steel studs are not present (studs are metal on your coach) then also scan that area for electric wiring using your stud finder in A/C detection mode. This area should be as close as possible to where the dryer exhaust is located.

- Drill a pilot hole large enough to insert a bore scope to inspect the proposed dryer vent location to inspect the are to ensure there are no utilities such as 12V wiring and plumbing.

- Upon validation with the bore scope, proceed to drill the dryer vent hole with the 4.25" hole saw

- Test fit the dryer vent kit then cut the dryer vent pipe to a size that permits the installation of two (2) hose clamps

- Pre-drill pilot holes to accommodate the kit screws

- install the dryer vent kit using a generous amount of Geocel ProFlexRV sealant

- install your washer and dryer, attaching the appliances to your rig.

NEVER run washers and dryers while you are on the road as severe damage can occur to the appliances.

Lance, please share your journey on this forum!

Al,

Look carefully at the bottom of your step to determine the make and the model number.  There is a ~90% chance that your step is manufactured by Kwikee. 

After you have verified that you have a Kwikee step, the 2005 era Kwikee step motor/controller replacement is dicey because Kwikee does not have good motor and controller documentation from that era. That is why your current RV tech is "fishing" on your dime to resolve the issue because Kwikee had multiple motor and controller iterations during that era to address step motor controller product failures.

The fast path is to just order a new Kwikee step, as @Land Lubber suggested above, from Amazon ($600-$900 depending upon the step model) and install it.  Set aside 1 hour for the swap as the bolts attaching the step to your Class A are challenging to access.  You will need a socket set and an automotive hydraulic jack to lower the retired step from the RV and raise the new step to your RV to bolt it in place.  The wiring harnesses on the Kwikee steps are quick disconnect, so no electrical knowledge or electrical tools are required.

For your personal safety, disconnect the house and chassis batteries before you start the job as powered steps can amputate fingers.

9 minutes ago, jegall said:

Need to add I now have a Micro air 357 installed I would like to use it to control both furnaces only .

 

Yes, you can retain the Micro air 357 to control the furnaces.  Follow the lead of @Tom Cherry to the letter and share your bumps in the road in this forum.....

Thanks for confirming that you have ducted AC.  As you have decided not to have the heat pump functionality moving forward, then here is what you should purchase:

https://www.recpro.com/rv-air-conditioner-13-5k-quiet-ac-with-remote-control-ducted/

Keep in mind that the above unit is 13.5K BTU.  If you want 15K BTU cooling capacity, you will also opt in to the heat pump feature:

https://www.recpro.com/rv-air-conditioner-15k-with-heat-pump/

If you opt in to the 15K BTU unit above, make sure that you select "Ducted" on the options.

Both the above units are slightly taller than your current Dometic Penguin 2.  RecPro does not manufacture their low profile units (Penguin height) for ducted applications.

You will retain your current Dometic thermostat as is for controlling your furnaces.  You will control your RecPro A/C units via their remote control(s).

You may optionally remotely control your RecPro A/Cs with your cell phone or tablet if you purchase a SwitchBot hub:

https://www.amazon.com/SwitchBot-Hub-Mini-Smart-Remote/dp/B07TTH5TMW/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2TN3HJJHDB9ME&keywords=switchbot%2Bhub%2B2&qid=1692804049&sprefix=switchbot%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-8&th=1

For additional sound level suppression and a tremendous increase in air flow, purchase a custom airbox distribution mainfold from RV Airflow Systems:

- https://rv-airflow.myshopify.com/pages/the-details

If you elect to purchase the product above, you will need to call RV Airflow systems directly via (574) 536-2472 and order by telephone as their RecPro Manifolds are not listed on their ecommerce shopping page. 

After installing your new RecPro A/Cs, find an optimal place in your shared ductwork to seal off into two (2) separate zones using a high quality HVAC tape or take the low road and use duct tape.  Then enjoy the quiet performance!!!

It is normal and expected that your brake lights only come on with the engine running or when the ignition key is in the "run" position, dependent upon you braking system (air vs. hydraulic)

Here is the litmus test to determine if the RecPro direction is right for you:

- Verify that you do not have heat provided by an Aqua Hot unit

          - If you have an Aqua Hot unit, stay with the Dometic Penguins

- Verify if your current Penguin 2 units are ducted or non-ducted

Also, keep in mind the Pros & Cons:

- Con: Ducted RecPro's don't like sharing duct work and will cycle off prematurely if their shared ducting is not separated  (Carefully placed duct tape is the solution)

- Pro: RecPro's are tremendously quieter than the competitors such as the Dometic Penguin 2 and are THE quietest rooftop AC units on the market today

- Pro: RecPro's can be controlled remotely if you purchase and setup a SwitchBot 

- Con: RecPros can't be controlled by your existing Dometic thermostat

- Pro: RecPro's are less expensive than the competition

- Pro: RecPro's typically don't need a soft starter when utilizing inverters because their startup surge maxes out a 15 amps unlike the competition

- Con: If you have an Aqua Hot unit for heating, you MUST stay with Dometic 

Answer the questions above so that Tom, Cmillet86, and others can guide you through the next steps.   Tom is the forum SME on rooftop HVAC changes as it is applicable to Dometic controller integration.

Bill,

Your A/C rooftop unit was modified by the previous owner as rooftop A/Cs have factory charged and sealed A/C systems.  The issue that you will encounter if you attempt DIY is that you can't purchase R410a refrigerant without an EPA license.  Also, truck and RV shops don't have the equipment to recharge R410a systems.  And finally, a residential A/C technician will not charge your system without a high side port to monitor the high pressure side of the system.

Provided that you don't have an on-board aqua hot system, I recommend that you consider the following replacement unit from RecPro (Houghton) as the cost is much lower, can be controlled from your cell phone or tablet via SwitchBot, and is much quieter:

- https://www.recpro.com/rv-air-conditioner-15k-with-heat-pump/

Keep in mind that the RecPro unit above does not use your existing Dometic control or the Dometic thermostat.  It has its own built in thermostat and is controlled with an included infrared remote control.  Also, you can purchase a SwitchBot hub from Amazon to remotely control the unit via your cell phone or tablet.

3 minutes ago, DavidL said:

RV dash AC is just like auto, just longer lines, less sophisticated control systems and easier access to the parts.

Ports are either at the compressor (on the motor) or next to the evaporator or both.

 

If an auto shop wants to, they easily can diagnose / repair / recharge RV dash air.

 

rooftop units are considered generally not serviceable ie: replace them if leak.

Are you sure on R410a?  Never saw that on an RV.  R134 like auto.  And we are talking Dash air, not roof air - right?

That was a typo that I corrected.  Thank you...

You will need to purchase an R134a manifold set and ~3 cans of R134a refrigerant, goggles for eye protection, and insulated gloves for skin protection.  You can then use a standard R134a P/T chart to charge your systems to the correct pressure given your current ambient outdoor temperature.  The R134a low and high pressure ports of located in the area on the front of your coach on the upper left from the generator when your generator access cover is opened.  You will also find additional ports in the rear of the coach near the A/C compressor.  Just follow the refrigerant lines.

Almost all automotive shops will refuse to service your A/C if they can't fit your coach inside their service bay.  All truck shops will service your A/C.

3 minutes ago, daveyjo said:

Where are the pressure ports/ freon fill ports on a 2005 38' Holiday Rambler Scepter?

The R134a low and high pressure ports of located in the area on the front of your coach on the upper left from the generator when your generator access cover is opened.  You will also find additional ports in the rear of the coach near the A/C compressor.  Just follow the refrigerant lines.

Bill,

I have the same issue also.  This is caused by the orifice tube which works as an expansion valve to regulate the refrigerant amount flowing to the evaporator.  You can ignore this issue as it is not worthwhile to correct on the low side because you are very close to spec.  Set your high side pressure to specification and call it a success...

The main cause of leaks on the older coaches are schrader valves everywhere.  My 2000 HR Endeavor 38WDD has six leaky schrader valves that I had to replace twice since I have owned the coach.  

1 hour ago, Mike Wahl said:

The solar in our 2001 Signature has stopped working.  We have a BP 90 watt solar panel and a RV-30D charge controller.  This was on my list of items to replace, however it was working putting out 4 to 4.5 amps.  Not enough to cover the new residential refrigerator, however it helped.  I tested the panel input and I'm getting 18 volts.  I also checked the fuses at the battery's and they are both ok.  I get voltage readings from both battery's on the RV-30D controller.  I removed the charge controller and there are not obvious defects, however I'm thinking that it is the issue. 

1. Is there any more testing I can do to verify the charge controller is  the issue?
2. If the charge controller is bad, is there any inexpensive options for the short term.  I have other items I want to get to before working on the solar.
3. Is there an option that I start with a new controller and then build from it in the future, however using the current panel and wiring for now.

 

Mike,

You mentioned there is not enough existing Solar to run your refrigerator.  Are you looking to expand your solar array? Or do you just want to repair what you have?  Your factory Solar wiring is limited to 11 amps.  You can substantially increase the voltage by wiring solar panels in series to get the wattage, but you can’t exceed 11 amps.  Are you willing to replace the very limited low power OEM PWM solar controller with a modern and highly efficient MPPT controller?

To isolate your current issue, disconnect the two wires from the solar panel at the PWM controller and measure the amps with a multimeter with full sun. If you get more than 3 amps, then your PWM controller is failed.

if you just want to replace what you have, here is an excellent PWM controller:

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Voyager-10A-Waterproof-Controller/dp/B07YXZ68F5

2 hours ago, Rick A said:

I’m wondering what management system my 2005 Diplomat has on it because I don’t have the Aladdin coach system or Bluefire? Should I get a Bluefire or some other diagnostic tool to monitor the health of my rig? 

Rick,

I own the Bluefire and love it!  What are your monitoring goals and monitoring scope so that I can recommend the right solution for you?

12 hours ago, cbr046 said:

Because of these incompatibilities of 12V / 25V system it's not going to work as an integrated unit.  I won't be buying it, no matter the price.

And yes, there's pre-existing wiring for one roof panel.  The gauge is so small any additional panels would need new wiring pulled.

- bob

Bob,

Good call to pass on the Lithium batteries, but your existing wiring will be suitable, depending on the gage of the existing wiring. As an example, 14 gage wire was used on most Monaco Coaches in the early to late 2000s for the factory 60 watt solar panel.  So, at 24 VDC (VOC of a 12V panel), this wiring had some spare amp capacity. As 12V solar panels are rated at 24V VOC Volts output, here is the detail: 

- The capacity of 14 Gage stranded wire with 60C rated insulation, a 10 feet total wire loop with a 4% voltage drop specification typically used for Monaco factory solar panel wire runs from the roof are rated at 11 Amps

So, if you wire your solar panels in a combo parallel & series array, and use a high voltage MPPT solar controller, the existing factory wiring is entirely suitable.

Here is the configuration I used to install a substantial 1.2Kw solar panel array on my roof using that Monoco factory thin 14 gage stranded copper wire:

- Total of 12 Renogy 100 Watt Solar panels.

- Each Renogy 12V solar panel is rated at 24VDC VOC and a rated maximum output at 5.21 Amps

- Panels are wired as two (2) arrays wired in parallel with each array consisting of six (6) panels each wired in series

- Each array runs at 144 Volts DC at 5.21 Amps @ 77 Degrees Fahrenheit

- The arrays are paralleled in a combiner box for an aggregate output of 144 VDC @ 10.42 Amps (i.e. close to fully utilizing the 11 amp capacity of the 14 gage stranded copper wire if I were parked on the equator at noon on a perfectly clear day.)

To compensate for extreme high voltage induced by very cold morning weather (this condition is referred to as HyperVOC), I am using a Midnight Solar Classic 200 solar controller so that my solar controller doesn't experience over-voltage destruction.  So, if I was winter RVing in Canada on a very cold morning at -40 degrees Fahrenheit, the VOC (Voltage Open Circuit) correction factor for my solar voltage output would be 1.25 thus:

- Each array runs at 144 VOC *1.25 = 180 VDC  at 5.21 Amps @ -40 Degrees Fahrenheit.

- My Midnight Solar Classic 200 Controller will handle a maximum of 200VDC, so I am safely within this solar controller maximum voltage of 200 VDC

Bob, I hope that the detail above provides you with insight as to how useful your existing 14 AWG factory solar panel wiring is so that you can potentially move forward with your solar project.  If you can attain lightly used solar panels for less that 50 cents per watt, you are getting a bargain.  But the solar panels must be a size that allows you to still access your roof.  Most standard residential solar panel don't work well in RV applications because they are just too large.  

17 hours ago, cbr046 said:

@CAT Stephen The LiFePO battery is included, but it's 25V.  I think our inverter is a Xantrex.  This inverter wouldn't be compatible.  The whole system would be independent of the current system.

@Rocketman3 I can't envision integrating this into the coach . . . . which is why I'm asking if I was missing something.  Too many trees at the house, and too many generators to cover an outage.  Definitely seems like a "pass". 

- bob

Thanks Bob,

If you are not using the system with your inverter, then you can't use it with your batteries since your batteries are connected to your inverter except for the 24V Lithium you mentioned.  And Lithium can't be used on your chassis side as Lithium chemistry is not compatible for starting and you chassis side is not 24V compatible.  Here are my revised questions for you:

- What is your use case for the new solar system since your lead acid house batteries are connected to your inverter which is 12V, is not lithium compatible, and is not 24V compatible, and also can't be used with your chassis batteries?

- Do you have pre-existing wiring from your roof to the compartment or room where you will keep your inverter?  If you do, what is the gage of the wire?

4 hours ago, cbr046 said:

I have an opporturnity to purchase a solar system a buddy bought for his RV.  2 panels (2x150W), 25V 100Ah LiFePO battery, Grid Controller, Inverter.  Two problems I see are 1.) It's a 25V system and 2.) There's no AC charging for the battery.  I could buy a charger, but the battery . . . .

https://legionsolar.com/index.html  or https://www.plxdevices.com/Legion-Solar-Do-it-Yourself-Solar-s/123.htm

It's clearly focused on residential roof mounting and solar charging only.  My buddy is no longer available so I can't ask what he was thinking.  I'm thinking pass because of incompatibility with the coach's 12V system.  It would have to be a completely separated system. 

Am I missing something?

- bob

Bob,

I'll walk you through the process:

- Do you have pre-existing wiring from your roof to the compartment or room where you will keep your inverter?  If you do, what is the gage of the wire?

- What type of batteries are you trying to charge (Lead Acid, Lithium, ect.)

- What is the make and model number of your existing inverter? 

12 hours ago, 1nolaguy said:

Our 18 year old Nevercold is not working. I know the refrigerator door gaskets need replacement but also , while the freezer gets cold the fins in the refrigerator does not. Since the freezer (both sides) will freeze with temperatures dropping even after about 1 Hr the chilling portion (back furnace and ammonia re-circulation) seems to work fine the problem is something else. This unit is the original in our 2005 Safari so I do not want to spend a bunch on trying to put it back in service. If repair is going to cost more than $200-300 I would rather put that toward a new unit. If replacing it will likely be a 12v system. Thought about standard residential but the lack of efficiency vs 12v is leading me that direction if I go new. ANy help diagnosing this would be helpful.

How long, in hours, have you been running the refrigerator?  Absorption refrigerators take ~48 hours to cool down.

On 5/21/2023 at 10:01 AM, Les Hurdle said:

Hi Folks, newbie here.

v- 13.5K BTU Low profile version: https://www.recpro.com/rv-air-conditioner-low-profile-13-5k-quiet-ac-with-heat-pump-remote-non-ducted/.  will the shroud/cover of the old [to be replaced  unit] fit the new unit so roof appearance will be the same?

Have to admit I am finding the incompatibilities somewhat scary [even silly].  Years ago when MIDI was introduced the musical equipment companies decided on a global protocol so all product 'talked' to each other.This is also the case re DAW's and plug-ins etc.

How come RV'ers haven't yelled at the manufacturers to be compatible? 

Les

Hello Les,

All rooftop AC units are custom and unique to a manufacture's product series.  For example, the "Dometic Penguin 2" series shares a common shroud/cover.

Thus, the shroud/cover of the old unit to be replaced will not fit the new unit.

If you elect to utilize the Houghton (RecPro) products, these units are entirely self contained and independent of your current thermostat.  But, you still need to keep your current thermostat installed to run your existing propane furnace.  Nothing to fear and easy as pie! 

Key here is that the Houghton rooftop units (RecPro) allow you to completely abandon the expensive and complex interface boards and manufacturer specific thermostats as their controllers are self-contained in these units.  You may also remotely control these units via a SwitchBot infared repeater provided that you have an internet connection on your RV.  These units do not attach to your existic Dometic controls as their controls are self contained.

Compared to spending $100s on controller boards and MicroAir thermostats, the RecPro units are a bargin and are tremendously quieter than Dometic, Coleman, ect. 

You will still need to keep your legacy Dometic thermostat installed to control your furnace.

17 hours ago, hbr509 said:

I,m having to replace the front a/c dometic 15.5 low profile on a 2007 dynasty ,according to dometic I can swap the boards out and my 5 button controller will work as usual  , Any thoughts as to this being an option. 

Here is an alternate route for you to consider.  This AC unit is tremendously quieter than the Dometic, costs less than the Dometic, doesn't require a Dometic upgrade board, and has an included infared remote control:

- 13.5K BTU Low profile version: https://www.recpro.com/rv-air-conditioner-low-profile-13-5k-quiet-ac-with-heat-pump-remote-non-ducted/

- 15K BTU Standard profile version:  https://www.recpro.com/rv-air-conditioner-15k-with-heat-pump/

Make sure that you pick the right version for your RV (Ducted or Non-Ducted).

On 5/9/2023 at 10:58 AM, saflyer said:

Monaco Owners Club Thor Owners Club Holiday Rambler Owners Club Join Date: Nov 2011 Posts: 248

Has anyone installed the RV Airflow Systems modification to improve airflow in ducted A/C units? Does it work? Ed ‘05 Holiday Rambler Ambassador  2 Dometic Penguin IIs

I have installed two (2) RV Airflow manifolds for my two rooftop ACs used for my ducted AC system.  Before installation, The frontal unit would not sufficiently cool and I was getting substantial condensation due to poor airflow.  After the installation, my frontal unit now sufficiently keeps my RV cool and the air velocity of my farthest duct in the drivers area went from no measurable air current to substantial flow with no condensation.  Another benefit is extreme noise reduction down 9db for the frontal unit and 8db for the rear unit at 1 meter.  Also, both my units run much less that previously under the same conditions as the airflow has increased tremendously which has made both units much more efficient and effective.

10 hours ago, Stephen Denning said:

Looking to replace electric refrigerator with a 1210 Norcold.   Searching for a good used unit.  Is this a good idea?

Stephen,

It depends upon your use case.  I provided all the options that you may choose from depending upon three use cases. Your use case has a substantial impact on which option will fit best for you:

- Use Case 1: If you are on the grid nearly full time, you have a generator to keep your battery bank charged when you are off grid, and do not have significant solar power:

* Option 1A: Stay with your residential refrigerator 

• In your specific use case, staying with your existing residential reefer will maintain the maximum resale value for your RV, provided that your reefer is in good condition. 
• This option requires that your inverter is on full time since residential refrigerators run on 120VAC.  Although most residential refrigerators run on 75-200 watts, the issue is that most inverters draw a significant amount of additional energy (typically 45-100 watts) which put a substantial additional load on your battery bank.  

* Option 1B: Replace your residential refrigerator with an ultra high efficiency 12V RV refrigerator 

• 12V compressor RV style refrigerators have the interior storage, appearance, reliability, and features of a residential refrigerator, but will use less than half the watt-hours (~25%-30%) of your current residential refrigerator. These 12V RV refrigerators include standard mounting hardware so that you don't need to do a custom installation. The only catch is that they may or may not fit your existing opening, so measure carefully:
  • https://www.recpro.com/rv-12v-refrigerator/
  • This option will also maintain and even enhance the maximum resale value for your RV

- Use Case #2: If you have significant solar power (i.e. more than 300 watts) and have more than 200 amp hours of usable battery capacity (this is 200 amp hours of lithium or 400 amp hours of Lead Acid), and your solar power is available while your RV is stored , or you have access to 120VAC shore power at your RV storage facility, then stay with your residential refrigerator:

• Please refer to options for use case #1

- Use Case #3: If you are not on the grid or rarely on the grid, do not have significant solar power, and don't have a generator or you don't want to use your generator, then proceed to buy a used Norcold or Dometic absorption refrigerator, but make the following changes for fire protection and your personal safety:

• Option 3A: Buy a new helium based absorption style cooling unit for your existing refrigerator from JC Refrigeration which will reduce cooling unit fire risk to zero.
  • Helium is an absolutely "safe" absorption cooling unit refrigerant making a refrigerator fire impossible:
    • https://jc-refrigeration.com/product-category/norcold-gas-electric-cooling-units/
      • Helium cooling units cost more than ammonia cooling units and are not as efficient as ammonia cooling units
• Option 3B: Buy a new ammonia based absorption style cooling unit for your existing refrigerator from JC Refrigeration.
  • Ammonia is a flammable absorption cooling unit refrigerant, but The JC Refrigeration units have much thicker tubing than the OEM units and are MUCH safer than OEM cooling units and are MUCH more efficient than OEM cooling units at keeping your refrigerator and freezer temperatures down in the acceptable food storage temperature range.     
• For Either Option 3A or Option 3B:
  • Purchase the ARP Absorption Boiler monitor (Called the Fridge Defend) from https://www.arprv.com to eliminate the potential of cooling unit damage.
    • The ARP Fridge Defend will substantially increase the lifespan of your expensive absorption cooling unit by protecting against boiler overheating conditions which lead to internal corrosion and failure of the cooling unit.  
      • https://www.arprv.com/purchase.php
        • Purchase Option #1 from ARP because JC refrigeration controls their fans with a thermostat to maintain your warranty
  • If you are within a reasonable driving distance from JC Refrigeration in northern Indiana, have JC Refrigeration install the new absorption based cooling unit with the ARP Fridge Defend boiler monitor. 

Above all things, your personal safety comes first.  So, if you fit into use case #3 above, be advised:

• In all cases, NEVER BUY the new Norcold or new Dometic OEM new gas absorption refrigerators or their associated OEM replacement cooling units:
  • The OEM cooling unit performance is very poor resulting in the common nicknames "NotCold" "NeverCold" and NotSoCold"
  • An OEM cooling unit will reduce the maximum resale value for your RV by ~$2K typically due to the notorious poor reliability, low quality, and fire danger of the Norcold and Dometic OEM cooling units. 
    • They have inherent high risk of fire through corrosion resulting from boiler overheating which eventually results in flammable ammonia being discharged and subsequently ignited by the propane flame or the electric induction heater coil. 
      • Although both Norcold and Dometic have partially addressed their fire issue via safety cutoff safety switches for runaway boiler overheating situations, their cutoff switches don't turn off the boilers until a much higher temperature is reached versus the ARP Control which will result in cooling unit corrosion and subsequent failure after a boiler overheat event within ~one to three years. 
        • The JC Refrigeration units have much thicker tubing than the OEM units and are MUCH more efficient at keeping your refrigerator and freezer temperatures down in the safe range.  
  •   The #1 insurance claim in the RV insurance industry is refrigerator fires. 
    • NEVER run an any ammonia based cooling unit without an ARP Fridge Defend and / or a fire suppression system attached to the cooling unit.  If you are depending on the Norcold and Dometic recall kits alone (i.e. thermal runaway switches) then you are at risk for an ammonia fire when the thin OEM cooling unit tubing corrodes and dumps flammable ammonia on your open propane flame or electric heaters. 
    • I have personally been there and done that with my original Norcold OEM cooling unit when it failed and was very fortunate that I was present when my unit started smoking due to a boiler failure and was able to immediately shutdown my refrigerator to avoid a disaster.

17 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Personally, and many experienced folks here like and use the Interstate 31-MHD.  The list on them is $180.  I bought them for maybe $140 a few years ago….directly from the Interstate Distributor at a “fleet discount” price.  They last quite well and was what Monaco was using in the Dynasties and up from maybe 2006 on.  

https://www.interstatebatteries.com/commercial-vehicles/trucking-batteries/starting-batteries

Look at the specs and compare….very similar to yours.  I was told that Exide was NAPA’s private label vendor….and had good luck with a few.  

Interstate is everywhere as is NAPA.  Keep a maintainer on them if you don’t have BIRD charging.  Preferably a 3 stage with desulfonization cycle.  My Vette has one on it now and I get great life out of a not used often battery.

Costco is you best source for hight capacity starting batteries.  They are an exclusive distributor for interstate batteries and sell them for less than the competition.