CAT Stephen

Rob,

Are your current side view cameras wired or wireless?

@jacwjames,

I'm having the same issue on my drivers side window How much time was required for you to DIY the repair of your drivers side window?  

Carl,

In addition to the information provided by @Tom Cherry, here is a good video to help you envision the process:

Kurt,

A good place to start your journey is to contact the manufacturer directly:

https://validmfg.com/contact-us/

Please post your experience and the results.

What keypad are you referring to?

Robert, 

What brand and model of air dryer does your coach have?

RP,

Do your leveling jacks have visible retraction springs? 

• If the jack does have visible retraction spring(s), then you will need to replace the existing jack retraction spring(s).
• If they do not have visible retraction spring(s), then the retraction springs are internal which means that you will need to replace that entire jack.
  • This will be $$$$.$$  (i.e. ~$1000< plus 1 -2 hour install labor)

5 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

Stephen,  an intriguing device.   The reviews cast a little doubt about the setup procedure, one mentions the need for a password, and tech support couldn't help.            I'm curious if it's true,  really it's hard to imagine why they would complicate process.

On another note,  fuel tanks in our Monacos are not all alike.   Some are in the center of the coach running fore & aft but mine runs crossways from side to side.  I suspect Carls tank is that way too,  I mention this because on my Windsor the fuel door on pass side can be opened by removing 2 straps under the side.  The fuel sender is right there on top, easy to remove.

Ray,

No application password is needed to implement that product.  I found the included instructions to be clear and helpful, but I have strong electrical skills.

Carl,

Changing the fuel sending unit requires dropping the fuel tank which is very labor intensive.  Most truck shops will estimate eight (8) hours of labor, but will not provide a not to exceed price so there is additional potential financial exposure as the fuel tank retention hardware may be corroded and very difficult to remove.

All new trucks and buses made today use ultrasonic sensors to measure fuel levels.

The good news is that you can DIY by purchasing an ultrasonic fuel sender without dropping your tank:

- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09GK4YVY1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I installed this ultrasonic sensor specified above on my diesel pusher RV one (1) year ago and have had excellent results.  

Here are the pros:

- Ultrasonic sensors are much more accurate than float sensors

- Ultrasonic sensors mount to the bottom of the diesel tank eliminating the need to drop the fuel tank, potentially saving $1200.00+ in labor

- Ultrasonic sensors have flexible termination.  You can terminate directly to your current dashboard mounted fuel gage or to a Victron Energy Tank 140 if you already have a Victron Energy Cerbo GX.

Here are the cons:

- You must have a basic understanding of truck/bus/RV electrical systems and must have basic electrical tools to cut wire and terminate wire.

- You must be careful when initially testing your ultrasonic sensor location on your fuel tank with the included silicon gel to insure proper operation.  Your fuel tank must be full before attempting to locate your new ultrasonic sensor.

2 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

I use JG Lubrication, I sent in a Tranny oil sample in on a Monday and had the sample results back by Friday.  If you expedite shipping you could get a quicker turn around.  But you have to get the sample kit from them, which takes ~3 days, I just ordered 3 more kits to keep on the shelf.  ~$35 per sample

You may check a local service shop and see if they can turn a sample around quicker and/or see who they use for a quick turn around.

If you have a Caterpillar dealer near your area, they also have fluid testing services.  I would also advise you to also do an oil analysis on the generator.

Trust, but verify (everything) as non-use of diesel engines is more harmful than extensive use.  Physically inspect the date codes on the tires.  Run your hands across the "new: hoses to verify that they are really new.  Have the engine inspected by a brand specific mechanic.  Keep in mind that 22 year old rubber anywhere is brittle and ready to fail, so the generator hoses and belts may be at end of life.  Function test every system to uncover issues (dash ac, refrigerator on both propane and electric, generator with all A/C units, slideouts, ect.).

3 hours ago, timaz996 said:

I use a shunt and a Renogy DC to DC charger (40 amp). The wiring for the Renogy charger pulls from your chassis battery when it's being charged and if you wire it and everything else through the shunt there is no difference. I went with the Renogy because they have a 40 and a 60 amp version. The 40 amp can pull as much as 60 amps when charging so keep that in mind when sizing for your alt. You can mount it laying flat because it has a cooling fan. The Victron is only 30amps and has to be mounted vertical because of the heat sink fins. I have used my 40amp for over two years and happy with it.

@timaz996,

Victron Energy permits running multiple Victron Energy Orion Smart Isolated DC to DC chargers in parallel so multiple high DC to DC charging scenarios are possible.

@waterskier_1,

I'm replying to your second question:

• "I am not aware of any "integration with your iOS or Android devices" of the referenced Victron products.  They are only Bluetooth (BT) as far as I know.  I may not be aware of iOS or Android application that integrate inverters, MPPT controllers, batteries, and DC-DC converters, so please enlighten me (us)."

Yes you are correct.  The context is comparison between the Renogy DC to DC charger and the Victron Energy Orion Smart Isolated DC to DC chargers.

And your third question:

• If the OP already has Victron Products; Inverter-MultiPlus, MPPT Solar Controller and Victron Shunt along with a GX device (e.g. Cebro or CCGX) then and wishes to integrate all with a DC-DC controller, the only option I am aware of is the newly announced "Smart Buck-Boost 50A (700W) non-isolated DC-DC Charger 12/12-50".  This DC-DC Charger (Controller) has VE.direct buss that will integrate with other Victron products and will display the actual charger output on the GX device. 

The Victron Energy Orion Smart Isolated DC to DC chargers utilize the charging profile that the end user configures to charge the target battery band as needed, thus there is no integration needed with the Cerbo GX.  

• An additional shunt can be included between the Victron Energy Orion Smart Isolated DC to DC charger negative output and the out electrical system target to measure the energy transferred.

@waterskier_1,

I'm replying to your question for my post.  You asked:

• "Can you elaborate on your statement that ONLY option is isolated DC to DC charger if using LiFePO4 batteries?  I can't see the logic. "

Here is the electrical installation assumption:

• Although the House and the Chassis share a common ground, the house shunt will be located between the house battery negative post and the chassis/house ground. 

Here is the electrical science :

• An isolated DC to DC charger provides complete electrical galvanic isolation between the chassis input and house output circuits. This means that there is no direct electrical connection between the input and output sides of an isolated DC to DC charger.   Isolated DC to DC chargers utilize transformers to galvanically isolate the house from the chassis circuit.
• Galvanic isolation separates two circuits electrically while allowing the circuits to transfer power. 

A non-isolated charger allows electricity to leak between the house and chassis electrical systems on the positive side because they become positively bonded during DC to DC charger operation.  This direct electrical bond between the house and chassis electrical systems impacts the accuracy of all shunts located on either the house or chassis systems.

I owned a Renogy 40amp DC to DC charger for some time, but I kept getting inaccurate state of charge readings on my shunt versus my LiPO4 battery bank SOC that is bluetooth enabled.  I contacted Renogy support.  Renogy support indicated that their DC to DC chargers which are not isolated result in impacting the accuracy of shunts as there is also a connection to the positive side of the 12V system (obviously).

I also confirmed with Victron Energy support that, if a shunt will be utilized anywhere in an electrical system, they indicate to use only their isolated DC to DC chargers.  Victron Energy also manufactures non-isolated DC to DC chargers.

Can you use a shunt with a non-isolated DC to DC charger?  Yes, but the shunt will not be accurate. 

• I proved this through personally experiencing shunt readings that did not match my LiPO4 SOC via bluetooth. 
• After I replaced my Non-isolated Renogy DC to DC charger with two isolated Victron Energy DC to DC chargers in parallel, my shunt SOC now matches my LiPO4 house battery BMS SOC. 

Hello Jim,

The first consideration for selecting a DC to DC charger is your alternator capacity.  If you purchase a DC to DC converter which, in parallel with your other alternator loads, exceeds the capacity of your alternator, your alternator can be severely damaged or destroyed.  You can obtain the capacity of your alternator by using your engine model and engine serial number then contacting your engine manufacturer.

The second consideration for selecting a DC to DC charger is your shunt use and your other feature needs:

- If a shunt used to measure your LiPO4 bank state of charge is planned for your use either currently or in the future, then your ONLY DC to DC charger option is an isolated DC to DC charger.  To the best of my current knowledge, Victron Energy is the only company that manufactures isolated DC to DC chargers at a reasonable price: https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-Orion-Tr-Smart-DC-DC-chargers-isolated-250-400W-EN.pdf

- If you are on a very constrained budget and never plan to use a shunt, Renogy DC to DC chargers provide the best value, but need to be manually switched on and off physically which is inconvenient: https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Battery-Batteries-Multi-stage-Charging/dp/B07Q4SVX3M/ref=sr_1_1?crid=U04CR0YL3EJU&keywords=renogy%2Bdc%2Bto%2Bdc%2Bcharger&qid=1699890028&sprefix=renogy%2BDC%2Bto%2B%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-1&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0&th=1

- If you seek maximum flexibility and complete integration with your iOS or Android devices, The Victron Energy Orion Series Smart DC to DC isolated chargers are the flagship of the DC to DC charger industry, and are reasonably priced compared to other options except Renogy: https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-Orion-Tr-Smart-DC-DC-chargers-isolated-250-400W-EN.pdf

Here is the best detailed video on troubleshooting and adjusting your door:

- 

Don,

I have had the FMCA sponsored "RV Roadside Assistance Unlimited" since 2020.  I used this assistance for the first time last month and was very impressed:

Date of incident: October 30th (Sunday)

- My TPMS alarm sounded due to rapid deflation of my rear drivers side outer tire on my tandem axle

- I pulled off the interstate and entered the first parking lot to prevent destruction of my drivers side inner tire on my tandem axle as it was now heavily overloaded

- I contacted the Roadside assistance service and they started the case to dispatch a local mobile repair service

- The roadside assistance service followed up with me within 20 minutes since my initial call to indicate that the local mobile repair service did not have my tire in stock.  The roadside assistance then offer a tow free of charge to the nearest truck repair facility free of charge.

Here are the key take-aways that I learned from this incident regarding FMCA roadside assistance:

- They answered the phone immediately on a Sunday afternoon

- They attempted to dispatch a local mobile repair service, covering the cost of the mobile repair service call which is typically $200-$300

- I would be responsible only for the actual tire repair or replacement cost, not the mobile service call cost

- Since the local mobile repair service did not have my tire in stock, they paid for towing my RV ~40 miles to a Truck repair shop that did have my tire in stock

Towing a Class A RV 40 miles free of charge to replace a tire is a tremendous value.  I was very impressed with their dedication to get me back on the road as soon as possible.

If you would like to lear more, here are the details:

https://www.fmca.com/fmca-rv-roadside-assistance

Laurice,

Although transfer switches are designed to transfer under load, arcing does occur under all loads and the arcing is heavier and more severe as the load increases.  Arcing causes corrosion of the electrical contactors within the transfer switch which results in eventual transfer switch failure.

So, should you use your transfer switch under load?  The answer is that is exactly what it is designed for.  But, since most all transfer switches are inherently slow in their load transfer (defined as the momentary absence of power during the transfer from shore to generator or generator to shore), your air conditioners, microwaves, and clothes washers will cycle off during the transfer which is not helpful.  Thus, its better to power off the heavy loads before the transfer as they will just cause more arcing with no other benefit which reduces the service life of your transfer switch.

Also, keep in mind that all RV transfer switches are set from the factory as being generator preferred.  What this means is that the transfer switch will activate within a preset time (30 seconds to 2 minutes depending on your transfer switch) switching the load from shore to generator even if your RV is attached to shore power.

Your results may vary as some transfer switches have DIP switches to adjust the generator preference to shore power preference.

Ken,

The only washer and dryer units that will fit your space are the "compact" size which measure  24"W x 23"D for each unit.   Be very careful before considering compact dryers deeper than 23" depth (many on the market are deeper than 23" which may prevent you from attachaching the dryer vent).  For compact washers, you can go beyond 23", but you must verify that you have sufficient room to the supply hoses and drain hoses.

You must attach the appliances to the RV to prevent damage to the appliances.  Your existing shelf does not have the structural integrity to support a standalone dryer so be prepared to reinforce that shelf or remove the shelf entirely then purchase or build a support structure.  Most non-mobile appliances were not made to attach to anything as they are freestanding, so be ready for an attachment subproject if you utilize compact appliances not intended for mobile use. 

Here are some options for your consideration.  In all cases, buy the extended warranty as almost all these units except the first unit were not made for mobile use:

- The most compact combo unit made for mobile use (Single unit washer & dryer in one), but low capacity: Splendid WFL1300XD http://www.splendide.com/portfolio-details_WFL1300XD.html

If you purchase a combo unit that does not have an integral ventless system with condensate separation, then I strongly recommend that you vent the dryer to the outside.  Here are the steps:

- Purchase a stud finder with both metal stud detection and 120VAC detection such as this product: https://www.amazon.com/Stud-Finder-Wall-Scanner-Microprocessor/dp/B0C4Q3XJ94/ref=sr_1_5?crid=P8XYE61JOAFC&keywords=stud%2Bfinder&qid=1693358012&sprefix=stud%2Bfinder%2Caps%2C108&sr=8-5&th=1

- Purchase an inspection bore scope such as this product: https://www.amazon.com/Daxiongmao-Borescope-Endoscope-Waterproof-Inspection/dp/B0C3R381FC/ref=sr_1_6?crid=IFMPM66MWH4D&keywords=inspection+camera&qid=1693357433&sprefix=inspection+camera%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-6

- Purchase a Dryer Vent kit: https://www.amazon.com/Westland-VI422-Standard-Dryer-Vent/dp/B003VAT5AM/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3MFKQRTGT7CU5&keywords=dryer+vent+kit&qid=1693357806&sprefix=dryer+vent+kit%2Caps%2C111&sr=8-8

- Purchase clear or white Geocel ProflexRV sealant (Do not use silicone!!): https://www.amazon.com/Geocel-GC28100-Flex-Flexible-Clear/dp/B001FC98X2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1VE3J6NGY7S3X&keywords=prorv%2Bsealant&qid=1693358161&sprefix=prorv%2B%2Caps%2C109&sr=8-3&th=1

- Purchase a 4.25" hole saw such as: https://www.amazon.com/Qjaiune-Bi-Metal-Smoothly-Cornhole-Fiberboard/dp/B089GXHVJ9/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1K300U6S3EO8L&keywords=dryer%2Bvent%2Bhole%2Bsaw&qid=1693358380&sprefix=dryer%2Bvent%2Bhole%2Bsaw%2Caps%2C123&sr=8-7&th=1

- With your rig attached to shore power, use a stud finder to locate the optimal point where steel studs are not present (studs are metal on your coach) then also scan that area for electric wiring using your stud finder in A/C detection mode. This area should be as close as possible to where the dryer exhaust is located.

- Drill a pilot hole large enough to insert a bore scope to inspect the proposed dryer vent location to inspect the are to ensure there are no utilities such as 12V wiring and plumbing.

- Upon validation with the bore scope, proceed to drill the dryer vent hole with the 4.25" hole saw

- Test fit the dryer vent kit then cut the dryer vent pipe to a size that permits the installation of two (2) hose clamps

- Pre-drill pilot holes to accommodate the kit screws

- install the dryer vent kit using a generous amount of Geocel ProFlexRV sealant

- install your washer and dryer, attaching the appliances to your rig.

Les, 

The easiest way to add oil to your engine is through the engine valve cover cap.  

Hello John,

Here are the details for Error Code 12:

“Er 12”: The fault is detected as an “open circuit” to the heating element for defrosting of the fresh food cooling flange. Possible faults:

• Blown fuse F6 (7.5 amp).

• Connector (P5) on the lower control board is disconnected.

• Loose wires in the harness connected to (P5).

• Wrong or loose connections in the inter-connection box inside the fresh food compartment.

• Blown overheating protection fuse in the heating element (heating element has to be replaced).

• Broken element (heating element has to be replaced) 

For more information, you can RTFM (Read The Fridge Manual 🙂

- https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Dometic-NDA1402-Service-Manual.pdf

Bruce,

The Lithium batteries are the last item that you select after you have selected all of your other components for your Lithium conversion such as a Lithium compatible inverter/charger, DC to DC chargers, solar charge controllers, etc.

The primary criteria for Lithium batteries is your use case which will drive which features that you need.  Most Lithium batteries don't have low temperature cutoffs which can result in Lithium battery destruction if charging is attempted under freeze conditions:

• Do you, under any circumstances, use or store your RV in temperatures under 34 degrees farenheit?

Secondly, what is the rated and the maximum "peak" surge output of your inverter?  Most Lithium batteries will "shutdown" in a short time if you exceed their "C" rating which is typically 0.5C or 1.0C, so its critical that you buy Lithium batteies that can accomodate the rated capacity of your inverter for continous operation and accomodate the surge capacity of your inverter for short periods.  

• For example, two (2) 100Ah Lithium batteries rated at 0.5C discharge wired in parallel will output a maximum of 100Amps continuously. So if your inverter rated output uses 1800 Watts, the Lithium batteries in this example will only deliver 1200 watts continuous power.  
• Rick @waterskier_1 also mentioned charge capacity which is also a "C" rating.  For example, two (2) 100Ah Lithium batteries rated at 0.5C charge wired in parallel may only be charged at a maximum of 100Amps continuously. So if your inverter has a rated output charge output of 200 amps, then you can only use 50% of your inverters rated charge output which will result in a 50% slower charge of your Lithium batteries.

In summary, please answer the following questions so that the forum can provide the right recommendation for your Lithium battery project:

• What is the make and model number of your proposed solar charge controller, if you want solar?
• What is the make and Model number of your proposed Lithium compatible inverter?
• How many standard sized 12V house batteries can your RV accomodate?

Michelin is an expensive brand, but I use them on my automobiles due to the exceptional warranty and ride comfort.  Michelin tires for RV's are  expensive, but have added compounds (verses their competitors) to vastly slow down UV degradation and degradation from infrequent use.  I have used Hercules Strong Guard H-RA 275/70R22.5 H/16PLY on my coach for the past 7 years and have been very pleased with the performance and the exceptional Hercules pro-rated warranty of 7 years covering tire defects (Their warranty is on par with Michelin). 

I am replacing my RV tires this December and will again go with the Hercules because of the very similar warranty (to Michelin), The "made in the USA" pedigree (Findley, Ohio), and the exceptionally low tire cost ($383/tire versus the FMCA pricing for Michelin X (XZA2 ENER 148M(LRJ)) for $588/tire).  Michelin's added compounds are not worth the extra $105 per tire in my humble opinion.

If you do move forward with Michelin, the lowest cost is attainable through the FMCA tire program benefit.

You can ship your coach to Europe, but here are the limitations and changes:

- Electrical:

• Be careful with your RV appliance compatibility because the EU uses 50hz electrical instead of 60hz electrical so verify that all of your appliances and electronics can accomodate 50hz, especially your inverter. Also, the EU voltage (220V-250V) is not compatible with US RVs so you will need to buy two (2) of these voltage converters (one for each leg of your 50Amps service):
  • https://www.world-import.com/tc-5000a-u-d.htm
  • You will also need to buy a variety of plug adapters as the EU uses plugs that vary by country
  • You will also need to buy a variety of US dogbone power adapters for your 50A coach
    • I can assist if you elect to ship your RV to the EU

- General Driving:

• Passenger Buses in the EU are the same size as US Class A coaches, but there are some roads in the EU that can't be used by buses, just like the US.
• Diesel in the EU is taxed to an extreme, so you can expect to pay the equivalent of up to $8.75/gallon in some countries.

- Dump Stations:

• There are ample free public dump stations in the EU for RV's, but you will need to buy a Thetford Sanicon macerator to use the EU dump stations:
• https://www.thetford.com/sani-con-turbo-the-no-mess-waste-evacuation-system/

- Campgrounds:

• https://www.ricksteves.com/travel-tips/sleeping-eating/camping
  • Keep in mind that the majority of EU campgrounds don't accomodate US size class A coaches
  • You may potentially boondock more than you will stay in campgrounds

37 minutes ago, camelot said:

73.25"

Now that you have confirmed the height, what is your electrical use case scenario? 

- Are you full time on the grid / generator? 

   - If not, do you occasionally or frequently boondock off the grid? 

   - Do you currently have an LiPO4 House battery bank?