Jim Pratten

We use ones similar to this one  in three location secured using VHB tape:

• Cabinet above windshield for router, jet packs . . .
• Dash for iPad, Garmen, TPMS . . .
• Bedroom TV cabinet for rechargable flashlights, family radios . . .

Another consideration is how to connect these and other 12vdc devices to coach power. I’m not a fan of cigarette lighter sockets used for 12vdc power.  Wherever we need to make a portable 12vdc connection, we use Anderson Powerpole connectors.  When we replace a cigarette lighter outlet, I’ve used these.  

Thanks @jacwjames, will have to look into a bit more.  I have a D2 spare I carried over from my Volvo that, at a glance, looks the same as the one mounted in my engine compartment.  I didn’t give it a second thought that it might not be compatible. Still suspect it is but my betting confidence is weakening.  

Geez, I thought all air governors were generically called D2 with same form and function across all manufacturers, with exception some are adjustable. Couldn’t see any difference after Google searching the 9754990010 and KN18537 on parts list Jim provided.  They both look like D2’s.  Am I missing something significant?

Interesting and good job troubleshooting.  I’m almost dangerously smart on how HWH works and appreciate insight like this. Am I correct in guessing it was the rear six pack?

53 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Van, where have you positioned the thermocouple,  manifold or past the turbo? I could certainly drill the exhaust tube past it but not sure about accuracy at that point. Thanks.

@vanwill52and @Ivan K, I’ve wondered the same. Assume there’d be some heat dissipation and reduction in temperature past the turbo but wouldn’t it still be linear with respect to the manifold temperature?  If linear, it seems I’d be able to establish desirable performance range . . . or not?

8 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Just lift a corner of the old sticker and peel it off. Mine came off clean, no residue to clean.

Ditto Ivan.

Their ordering process is a little cumbersome with them calling you for charging info.  However, delivery was quick, price was reasonable and quality was good. Very pleased with new touch panel overlay. 

On 7/30/2021 at 11:29 AM, vanwill52 said:

David, the special "Type K" thermcouple wire is stiff and appears slightly fragile and prone to kinking.  It is indeed a bear to run.  The gages like the AutoMeter one I installed use ordinary copper wire, making the process infinitely easier. . . . . The box marked "EGT Gage" is the "amplifier" that allows the millivolt signal to be transmitted over ordinary copper wire.

Van, does the AutoMeter amplifier output match the connected type K signal?  Would prefer sticking with the same gauge family as the fuel pressure and, if possible, would use this amp between the type K thermocouple and the gauge. Like you, I have run multi conductor cable and using an amp makes great sense to me. 

I removed our Jabsco accumulator tank also.  It adds some short cycling of the water pump, especially if there's air in the lines.  We can easily live with that versus hassle/risk of changing water filters.  Our water filters were installed directly over the inverter and felt much more important to sacrifice the accumulator to create space for relocating the filters.  Could have mounted the accumulator somewhere else, say under a sink, but just don't feel it brings that much value. 

edit - I should add the most important part, the boss doesn't even notice the pump cycling and could care less if she did.  Just as long as water flows when the faucet is opened, all's good here.

I learned a couple things and thought worth my time.
Here’s the link if you care to watch. 

Short story - I used layers of tape on the topper tube to create a “bulge” on the tube to tighten the fabric.

Long story - Our slide topper material was in pretty good condition, however, it sagged on one end and collected a  pool of water. I took the material off and measured from cord to cord across the length of the topper.  I found the cord to cord measurement is nominally 46” and was about 3/16” longer in the middle of the side where it puddled  

Since our slide extends 19”, a little more than half of the topper material was never unrolled and exposed to weather.  I flipped the topper fabric so the unexposed material would now be used and the previously exposed material was placed on the tube side.  To compensate for the 3/16” difference in lengths, I put several lengths of painters tape on the tube prior to reinstalling the topper.  I built up tape layers starting around 6’ long and shortening about a 1’ for each successive piece.  In the end, I suspect I built it up about 1/16” in the middle of the tape layers, which taper down from there.

Worked very well, the slide topper looks new and is very taught.  When the topper is extended, there’s 4 layers of fabric still on the tube with a bit more fabric wrapped on the area with the tape “bulge”.  All in all, took about 3 hours with my son helping. Suspect could cut that in half, having figured out how to safely remove and reinstall the topper.

20 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

If in doubt I'd drain and refill.  It will be hard to get all the old fluid out  but you'll get +90%.

Ideally, someone very knowledgeable and experienced (preferably a chemist), will speak up and say all those fluids are fine to mix in any ratio.  Otherwise, I would also drain and refill.

I’m guessing you have a Southco Grabber Latch or similar that broke or is jammed and is holding the drawer.  I’d be inclined to slip a putty knife behind the top center of the drawer face, and with a hammer blow to the putty knife, attempt to break the latch “finger” to release the drawer.

32 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

I have NEVER tested my ANCIENT "Craftsman" Vacuum Gage (also Fuel Pressure) unit that I had back in my Hot Rodding days. I did test it when I was involved in Carburetor Manufacturing and tested a few units and we also had a QC lab that could meet FORD Q-1 Quality Standards.

I also worked at a location that had world class calibration labs and processes. You tend to get religion when your systems and tools are challenged by QC audits from folks that know the business and have the authority to red tag your equipment. 
 

 . . . and smiles Tom on the enhancement of the topic description. 

My wife asked, “What the heck are you doing?” as she took this photo.  Agree, it might look a little odd sucking on some tubing.

There was some recent forum discussion on when to change our engine air filters. Common industry recommendation is to change the filter when the restriction gauge measures 25” water column.  But how do I know my gauge is accurate?

Simple enough to test with a little tubing, some hose barb / 1/8” mnpt fittings and a bottle of water. Amazingly enough, my 24 year old Donaldson Informer gauge was darn near 100% accurate at the 10, 15, 19, 22 and 25 inch gauge indicator “trip” increments. 

Ditto what Bob said.

Search this forum for “lift pump bolts” and you find several thorough discussions with pics.

Lift pump part number should be accessible on Cummins Quickserve system.  You need to register which takes just a few minutes. You’ll need your engine serial number. 

Water build up is likely the result of the drain line freezing closed. There lots of folks on eBay selling drain clips to improve the heat transfer and eliminate water freezing in the drain.

YouTube has several videos on how and where to install the clip.

It’s also not uncommon for the Samsung computer to lockup when power is cycled so that MAY be a second unrelated issue. 

2 hours ago, Dean Bennett said:

So, my first upgrade was to install a 240V element.

Impressive Dean.  There’s some engineering and safety related analysis I’d want to undertake before heading in that direction, but truly love the ingenuity to solve your hot water demand. 

Sad to hear.

Ray was one of a handful of folks on this forum that I followed and likewise enjoyed his sense of humor and sage advice. Ray made this forum a better place for his involvement and his thoughtful words will live on.

Rest in peace.

Trust EZ sent you a Lexan skylight which drills and cuts well vs Plexiglass which is prone to cracking.

I’m a fan of Eternabond but not in this application. Recommend use of Surebond. Eternabond will “tent” over fastener heads resulting in small air pockets around fastener head circumference. Over time, these pockets can get punctured, which granted is low risk, but IMHO why go that route.  I also use Surebond between the roof and skylight.

RIGHT ANGLE GRINDER

Ok, I know this isn’t for everyone, but I wouldn’t travel without a right angle grinder. Use it at least once a week to either cut, grind or wire brush something. We’re full timers, so projects are done on the road and almost every project calls on the grinder.

Tools I miss the most that didn’t win the “space battle” in our 34 York:

Skill saw - though it’s amazing what the small multi-tool vibrator will do in a pinch; once cut a sheet of plywood

Compressor - we do carry a 10 lb CO2 cylinder regulated to 150 psi.

Hydraulic elec lug crimper - realize use is very infrequent but worry I’ll need it someday on the side of the road.

Welder - another infrequent tool but sure miss being able to splatter some metal

A couple notes you might consider, based on my experience, when replacing skylights:

Material selection

You’ll find both acrylic (Plexiglass) and polycarbonate (Lexan) products.  If you plan on drilling or cutting the material, know that acrylic is much more prone to cracking.  I have always used Lexan and prefer the white material. 

One or two panels

Heat transfer can be reduced somewhat by using two panels. Some RVs use a single panel, others use two. The outer panel should be domed. The inner panel may be domed or flat. A flat sheet is significantly less expensive.  I apply a very small bead of sealant between the panels. The inner sheet should have a very small “breather” hole drilled. 

I find this chart of coolant “families”  informative.

1 hour ago, Newcsn said:

@Jim Pratten Interesting solution! Is the 1” nylon reinforced hose the clear type you can buy at any of the big box home improvement stores? How did you connect it on the ends - barb fittings? Thanks

Yep, used 1” NPT to 1” stainless steel hose barbs.  Saw no need for hose clamps. Cut into existing plumbing at the lower black ABS line and the upper SPA hose PVC line using one each ABS and PVC 1 1/2” slip to 1 1/2” female NPT and 1 1/2” NPT to 1” NPT stainless reducers.

edit note - corrected to 1 1/2” and included use of reducers.

As side note, I’m a fan of PTFE paste versus tape, especially when joining dissimilar materials. 

I put in a 1” nylon reinforced vinyl hose. It’s extremely flexible and sink drains well, I’d say as fast as ever.  Flow rate is already restricted by the sink strainer and basket so little to no benefit IMO to maintain 1 1/2” hose. 

edit note - went back to my parts list and our SPA hose was 1 1/2” versus 2” in my original note.

My update . . . I did add a low beam relay in the FRP. Pretty straight forward; took the wire to the low beam and used it to energize a standard 87 relay. The relay now powers the low beam lights with current through the headlight switch and connectors greatly reduced.

However, none of my projects seem to end that easily. I’m pleased with the fog lights and the revised headlight circuit, but in process of “breaking” into the low beam circuit, I was rewarded with another opportunity.  The FRP terminal strip screws are mostly corroded and difficult, if not impossible, to turn and release the wires. I want to say it should be pretty easy replacing the terminal strip but . . . 

Good luck Steve with your lights.