Lynn Hales

I chased wires again this afternoon and believe I've found one problem. The attached photo shows one of the wire bundles behind the slats under the sink and to the right. I confirmed that the ground and 12V wire for the under cabinet florescent lights over the sink trace to the right hand connector. On the other connector that plugs into it has a very large red wire that feeds the 12V wiring going to the light . Problem is that the large red wire(supposedly 12v) doesn't have 12 volts on it. The adjacent pin does have 12V on it (also a red wire but not as thick). I checked the fuses again in the bedroom closet and they all were good. Anybody got any idea where this large red wire might be coming from and where another fuse might be that is attached to it? I've been looking at the wiring diagrams and didn't see anything that looked promising.

Thanks Todd. No tape in my case. I used a borescope and combed every inch of the space. I do think I've made some head way however.

Yes, first placed I looked. The switch is also dangling. Its a simple spst rocker switch that switches the 12V side of things. It traces back to one of the connectors with no mate, therefore no 12V. The Borescope didn't show me any hidden, unconnected mates. I like your analysis. The connector seems like it has to be close. I'll keep you posted as I continue my hunt the afternoon.

Thanks for the ideas Dennis. I took a quick look in this area and thought it would be a likely spot to investigate. The cabinet you're referring to is the one with the slats on right? I did pull it off and couldn't see anything that obviously was snaking its way upwards but I'll look more closely again. I've looked at the fuses and will do so again. I'd love to find a blown one but didn't spot one in my looking or testing.

Thanks Todd and Tom. I also think that these had to have worked at some point in time. That's why I was surprised that I could not find 1 live 12V anywhere near the non-functioning lights. The switch for the pucks is right next to them and it simply switches the 12V. The switch over the sink is part of the light fixture itself and also switches the 12v. Tom, good idea to consider a 120 to 12V transformer above the microwave. I could fairly easily do that. Not a great fan of individual battery powered lights but I could also do that. I think I'll start to also look at how easy I can pry off a few panels. Thanks guys.

Its been three years since I bought our '06 Diplomat and I finally decided to figure out why the light over the sink and the two puck lights under the forward cabinets don't work. After borescoping everywhere I could I wasn't able to find a single 12V wire feeding any of the lights. I did find two unconnected male molex connectors that looked like all they needed was to be connected to a 12v source and ground and then everything would work. Any ideas where the source wiring for this side of the coach comes from. If not, how in the world would I run new source wires to this area?

Is this the location from Bob Nodine?

First phase of repair is now complete. Every C clamp I own and 3 new ones and a couple of 2x4's. Turned out the panel frame was bent inwards about 4" but it all straightened out more or less ok. Now to get all the paint off. Thanks again for the comments.

Thanks Scotty and Ken, I'm off to work on straightening it now. If I end up wanting to remove it I guess I have to drill out the rivets on the top, correct? I'd guess a 1/4" bit and just deep enough to remove the top cap.

Ken, thanks for your comments. I went out to our storage spot (105 degrees here) and it turned out that there are two brackets on the bottom that can be unscrewed and the the panel will open. Hinge is at the top. The frame was bent enough that it took some effort to get it open. At least neither of the tanks was damaged. Wish me luck in straightening the panel frame enough to get a complete seal. We're just trying to leave for a trip to cooler climes. Thanks again.

Someone hit the side of our 06 Diplomat. Can this panel be unlatched at the bottom and rotated up or removed easily? I'd guess the fresh water and black water tanks are behind the panel. Thanks for any comments. Lynn

Incredible selfless service. Thank you. Lynn

Thanks Bob, Ivan and Tom, I'm now tracing all the wires through the coach 7 way back to the tail lights. I think there may already be diodes hidden bay there but I'm going to have to work from the ground up and top down to find out. I also discovered that I don't have a charge wire for the jeep battery. On the coach side I've got a constant 12V on one of the spades. I guess that is the one to run over to the jeep for the charge wire.

I should have clarified my original problem statement sooner. With the coach engine on, and the jeep all connected up, the jeep turn signals and brake lights work correctly. When I then turn on the coach headlights on the brake and turn signals still work but on about a 10-15 second frequency, standing behind the jeep the jeep running lights go off and then turn back on after a second and then this continues to occur until the coach headlights are turned back off. I guess I've been looking for the problem in the wrong place.