No 12V Source Wire for Passenger Side Lights

[Lynn Hales]

Its been three years since I bought our '06 Diplomat and I finally decided to figure out why the light over the sink and the two puck lights under the forward cabinets don't work. After borescoping everywhere I could I wasn't able to find a single 12V wire feeding any of the lights.  I did find two unconnected male molex connectors that looked like all they needed was to be connected to a 12v source and ground and then everything would work.  Any ideas where the source wiring for this side of the coach comes from. If not, how in the world would I run new source wires to this area?

[tmw188]

Not a direct answer to your question but those had to have worked. Did you check fuses in the back bedroom in the 12v panel if located back there?

[Tom Cherry]

OK....logically, which rarely applies to a Monaco Coach... LOL.  

Hopefully some 05 to say 07 Diplomat or Endeavor owner with your 40PDQ floor plan will chime in and tell you WHICH switch to look for on your switch panel or where you turn on these lights.

But, you can also start to do the leg work.....Here is a link to the wiring diagrams for your MH.... The last one has most of the drawings...but as usual, Monaco is more interesting in detailing the phone lines, should you need to have a home phone box installed for the MH when you are at home, than the switches for the interior lights.  BUT, trust me...you WILL become best friends with these drawings.

OK...is there one light switch that has no function....for instance the lights that do not work?  As stated earlier, you need to know WHAT switch as well as other lights come when the "switch" is turned on.  

NOW, if you REALLY can't find the missing other end...and using a bore scope is a good idea...but usually you can remove the panel or wooden plate that the lights are mounted on or find a way to take down some of the interior panels inside a cabinet.  I have been able to get to the back side of most of my fixtures.  So, I would start looking.  Monaco sometimes used screws....other times a "finishing nail" or pin gun.  Gently prying on a corner of where you see the "Molex" plug and getting in there and being creative is the best advice.  Others have done this.  Maybe someone will chime in.

OK...did Monaco not run the mating connector?  Possibly.  ODDS ARE...it is there, but did not make the trip inside the cabinet or the raceway (side panel) of the cabinet.  I would search for that.  Next up...you COULD get a Toner or a signal generator and then tone or chase out the wiring.  BUT, you HAVE to know WHICH Switch controls it and then put your tone or "pinging" lead on that wire...then use the receiver and start checking the inside of the cabinet or above them.  THAT has been successful...don't know if the wood will block...but it is an option.

Finally....PUNT.  The simplest way....if all else fails.  Purchase a small wattage 120 VAC to 12 VDC power supply.  Check the wattage and number of bulbs and do the math to get the right wattage power supply.  Mount that in the cabinet above the Microwave.  You will have to get a "splitter" or a 120 VAC Y adapter to get power and use the Microwave circuit.  Then start removing the interior side panels of the cabinets between the Microwave and the "I ain't got NO power" Molex.  Run the power over and then install a switch and drive on.

All sorts of options.  Since it has been TWO years...think a little.  Depending on USE...have you thought about a battery powered LED for each area...  Way less trouble and the ones you can focus or move the head or the spots around are nice.  My wife had me put on in the bedroom as the overhead puck, for reading, did not give sufficient light...so there is a battery powered one double stick taped in the corner.

Good Luck...but at least NOW you have the prints....

 

 

[Lynn Hales]

Thanks Todd and Tom.  I also think that these had to have worked at some point in time. That's why I was surprised that I could not find 1 live 12V anywhere near the non-functioning lights. The switch for the pucks is right next to them and it simply switches the 12V. The switch over the sink is part of the light fixture itself and also switches the 12v.  Tom, good idea to consider a 120 to 12V transformer above the microwave. I could fairly easily do that.  Not a great fan of individual battery powered lights but I could also do that.  I think I'll start to also look at how easy I can pry off a few panels. Thanks guys.

 

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, Lynn Hales said:

Thanks Todd and Tom.  I also think that these had to have worked at some point in time. That's why I was surprised that I could not find 1 live 12V anywhere near the non-functioning lights. The switch for the pucks is right next to them and it simply switches the 12V. The switch over the sink is part of the light fixture itself and also switches the 12v.  Tom, good idea to consider a 120 to 12V transformer above the microwave. I could fairly easily do that.  Not a great fan of individual battery powered lights but I could also do that.  I think I'll start to also look at how easy I can pry off a few panels. Thanks guys.

 

Pull the switch out.  If you have power in and out of the switch (you can use the round GROUND pin as “Negative to test) and they worked before…..then time to figure how tomget inside the space where you spotted the molex.  There are times when “unplugged” connectors show up…but typically for an powered sub woofer….and they’re on 6 pins.  A vacant 3 pin means it lost its buddy….and the only fix is to get inside and see for yourself…

[DennisZ]

That is the same floor plan as my 2008 Endeavor. If you have no power to the light above the sink (mine is a florescent), I would look for power in the junction box for the slide out, it is located in the small cabinet at the aft end of kitchen slide. Make sure you check the 12 volt fuse panel in the bedroom closet.

[Lynn Hales]

Thanks for the ideas Dennis. I took a quick look in this area and thought it would be a likely spot to investigate. The cabinet you're referring to is the one with the slats on right? I did pull it off and couldn't see anything that obviously was snaking its way upwards but I'll look more closely again.  I've looked at the fuses and will do so again. I'd love to find a blown one but didn't spot one in my looking or testing. 

[Tom Cherry]

2 hours ago, Lynn Hales said:

Thanks for the ideas Dennis. I took a quick look in this area and thought it would be a likely spot to investigate. The cabinet you're referring to is the one with the slats on right? I did pull it off and couldn't see anything that obviously was snaking its way upwards but I'll look more closely again.  I've looked at the fuses and will do so again. I'd love to find a blown one but didn't spot one in my looking or testing. 

back to basics.  IT WORKED.  You see a connector behind or inside where the back of the fixture(s) is and it is dangling.  NOW, if all fairness, if there was another floor plan and there was a harness going to it, then maybe WHY the unterminated connector.  I have find that Monaco often did a poor job on the crimps when there were multiple connectors or wired.  I fixed two on mine.

BUT, before you can do anything, unless you are willing to run wires outside or under the cabinets...you have GOT to be able to get to the wiring...and Monaco always had a way.  Sometimes not obvious....but they hooked up wires and then stapled in a wall panel or floor.  The CABINET came preassembled with the lights.  Then they connected the electric.  Mounted or screwed in the cabinet and then covered the wires.  You just gotta figure out HOW to get back to that stage of the assembly.  An entire string of lights....that is a problem closer to the switch.  

Have you pulled or popped out the switch and see if it has power in and power out.  Gotta know that before you start downstream.

[Lynn Hales]

Yes, first placed I looked. The switch is also dangling. Its a simple spst rocker switch that switches the 12V side of things. It traces back to one of the connectors with no mate, therefore no 12V. The Borescope didn't show me any hidden, unconnected mates. I like your analysis. The connector seems like it has to be close.  I'll keep you posted as I continue my hunt the afternoon.

 

[tmw188]

I just remembered when I replaced all my gold puck lights I found they had the wires foil taped up to the inside bottom of the cabinets If I remember correctly. Look for a pc of foil tape maybe 3” sq that keeps the wire in place from moving around. Could be taped anywhere to that false bottom. I was able to feel around with my fingers looking for it once I knew what to look for. 

[Lynn Hales]

Thanks Todd. No tape in my case. I used a borescope and combed every inch of the space. I do think I've made some head way however.

 

[Lynn Hales]

I chased wires again this afternoon and believe I've found one problem. The attached photo shows one of the wire bundles behind the slats under the sink and to the right. I confirmed that the ground and 12V wire for the under cabinet florescent lights over the sink trace to the right hand connector.  On the other connector that plugs into it has a very large red wire that feeds the 12V wiring going to the light

 

 

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Problem is that the large red wire(supposedly 12v) doesn't have 12 volts on it. The adjacent pin does have 12V on it (also a red wire but not as thick). I checked the fuses again in the bedroom closet and they all were good. Anybody got any idea where this large red wire might be coming from and where another fuse might be that is attached to it? I've been looking at the wiring diagrams and didn't see anything that looked promising.