VinceB

Never at Cummins but at a Cummins authorized mechanic. They are good - doubt that they would have updated the ECM and not mentioned it.

In the leading arm of the awning over the entry door. There's a void that runs the length of the arm on the side that is closest to the body of the coach - I fill as much of the void as I can.

I did the Banks kit in 2005 so that's not it if the software is from 2015. I don't know how the software got upgraded to a 2015 rev or by who.

To this day, the awning over my entry door whisltes when at speed. It took a directional microphone to find the noise. The fix was to cut a piece of foam and insert it into the awning frame. I took the foam from those tubes people float on in a pool. I can tell when the foam gets aged out - the whistle comes back.

My mechanic got the error below when reading the engine data. He said the currenet software is from 2015 - I don't recall anyone ever updating the ECM. As you might guess, I'm a bit blindsided by this information. Is this really a thing and should I do the $250 update. Keep in mind that I have the Banks ECM and turbo kit. It runs extremely well as it is and I'd hate to "fix" it. ****FOUND ECM OUT OF CALIBRATION NEEDS SOFTWARE UPDATE**** CONFIGURATIONS AND MODEL NAME Marketing Engine Configuration # D413028BV08 Marketing Model Name ISC 330 Service Model Name ISC CM554 Technical Engine Configuration # D413028BX03 ENGINE BUILD DETAILS Build Date 2000-09-07T00:00:00Z Build Plant CNS - CONSOLIDATED DIESEL CO. Shop Order SO64874 Warranty Start Date 2000-10-12T00:00:00Z TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION DETAILS ECM Code J91044 Fuel Pump Part # 4010173 Fuel Pump Calibration GG49

My coach failed to air up. After a couple of days sitting, it then air up like always. Since then I've been afraid to dump the air. I took it to my mechanic and he says that when it was sticking there was no 12 volts to it. So he thinks to start with the dash switch. But my question is that if there is no 12v then would not the valve close and let the bags air up?

I'm waiting for dilithium crystals or a Mr. Fusion. 😊

Does the JC upgrade use the Norcold controls? If so, what number do you run it on to get 36° in the refrigerator section? I ask this becuase we like to run it colder than that. Also, what kind of battery consumption do you experience at 36°?

My freezer starts to get cold in a couple of hours on a 75° day. I'm pretty sure this is due to the fact that I frequently check the screws that attach the cooling unit Jim mentions above. There are scews in the freezer compartments and the cooling fins in the refrigerator section that pull the cooling unit tight to the cold compartments. The screws tend to walk themselves out and produce that gap he mentions. Once in a while, I can give them a ½ turn or so. I also rigged up some old computer fans to blow air across the fins. It doesn't take much air movement: it sure produces results and keeps frost from forming. 30° on a 75° day is normal for mine on propane or 110. So I'll keep it as long as I can.

I have ShadePro and love it - nice and durable. I just picked out year, make , and model on their site. It doesnt fit EXACTLY due to the nature of our snowflakes but they provided inserts to take up the slack around the defroster vents. I'd give 4.5 stars.

I'm curious. My tail lights are a split system - one unit for stop/running lights and the other for turn signals. Did you combine functions of the 2 units on each side or do you still have the split system?

Thanks, I'll check them out.

I like the tail lights on your coach. Where did you get them and part numbers please?

I watched a few of the Youtube vids. I don't see where it can be lubed. The motor looks like a sealed unit.

Thanks for the detailed response. I will let you know what I find but it will take a while as I have to wait for the paint shop to complete the final paint correction, paint awnings and re-install, and paint the window/door frames. Should have it back next week but...

Thanks. I'll look into doing that. Where are you blowing the air? Inside into one of the heating ducts or from the outside exhaust vents? How do you get to the bearings - from the outside? I appreciate you guy's help.

I'm no electrical whiz, but COULD the following be the theory of operation...? At rest, the banks are isolated. Dry camping would never run down the chassis batteries this way. On a start attempt of the big engine, the battery banks are not tied together unless you hit the AUX switch. After big engine start, 12v is sent to the solenoid to tie the banks together so they both charge. FYI & FWIW, neither the generator nor shore power ever did charge the chassis battery bank. I had to install a Xantrex Echo to solve that problem. Also an FYI, I could start the generator, hit the AUX switch and start the big engine if the chassis bank was insufficient. I used that trick in cold weather to get a better cranking RPM. So perhaps Monaco was getting double function out of this solenoid as a cheap way to do things in a low-tech way?

I'll have to check. I'll have to check Thanks for the response but there is nothing like that on my coach.

As the post title suggests, my Atwood makes a lot of noise but functions. I opened the compartment under the fridge that the unit lives in but it looks like there is no way to get into the unit to lube the fan. Or is that even an option? Zero documentation came with the coach which is why I don't provide a model #. Suggestions?

I know this is an older thread but... I have (I think) a similar issue. I notice after driving, my house batteries are at only 12.5v according to the panel. When the big engine is running, I assume that the voltage should jump up to 13.5 or so as when the generator is running. Testing across the isolator terminals confirms the alternator is not charging the house batteries. This makes me think my isolator is not working. Here's a pic of what I have. They are available on the web and 1 is on the way. My question is am I on the right track? Or could it be something else? I don't know that I have a BIRD board (?)

I haven't had a chance to take a good look to see if the liner is removable. But I assume that it would be. I'll have to remove all 6 batteries to make certain. If I can get it out I will but this has to wait until the holidays are behind us.

Received the POR-15 today. Went to coat the bay and it has a plastic liner. The walls are coated metal however. Have you a plastic liner too? If so, did you use the POR-15 on it?

In addition to all the other great suggestions I suggest that you check the foam rubber gaskets on the underside of the shroud. Over time they go flat. On my Dometics there is foam that creates seperate chambers in the unit: one for each coil. Bouncing down the road along with heat makes the gaskets flatten out becoming ineffective. The foam keeps the air for each coil from mixing with the other - they also keep the air moving in the right directions. If these 2 air masses are allowed to mix short cycling can result which takes a toll on the breaker as well as the compressor motor. I had a unit that was occasionaly tripping its breaker. It wasn't blowing real cold either. I also noticed that the compressor was cycling - probably had too high of pressure in one side of the system. After some trouble shooting, I found nothing. Sitting there just staring at the unit, I saw flat gaskets in the shroud - an Ah Ha! moment. Installed new gaskets and breaker which solved the problems. Back in the day new shrouds came with the gaskets pre-installed - no more. There are gasket kits available but are ridiculous in price. I went to H Depot and bought some window AC foam on a roll - self adhesive on one side - just a few dollars - IIRC 3/4" thick. The material seems to last just as long as the OEM. The challenge was lining the foam up on the underside of the shroud. So I just figured out where they needed to go and stuck them on the coils and other sheet metal where needed. It was not rocket surgery. I now pay attention to how often the compressors cycle and the output of each unit taking into consideration ambient temperatures - more art than science. When I hear short cycling or I detect that a unit is under performing I know it is time to replace the gaskets. I've had to do it 3x over the years. I replaced only the 1 breaker in 22 years because I didn't replace the gaskets in time. Bottom line: this is the first thing I check when a breaker trips or a unit is not performing.

Thanks.

Looks identical to my battery bay. Those caps on the Trojans are horrible imho. They let acid out before I had a chance to re-install the watering kit and now I have a huge clean up to do. OR my new batteries were over filled. Either way I need to recoat my bay. Does anyone have a good suggestion what to use for that?