VinceB

Me too.

Just recently replaced the cartridge in my kitchen faucet. Took the old cartridge to Ace Hardware and the rep knew just what I needed. Love Ace... The kit will have everything you need - change out everything while you have it apart. The O-rings for the spout would not work so I had to use 2" slip joint washers for the spout because it is an off-brand/Delta knock off faucet. YMMV.

As some of you know, I had my coach painted last year. What a clusterxxxx - I won't publicly disparage the business entity that did it. PM me if you want to know. That said, after a multitude of screw ups, (lost license plate, lost baggage door handles, miss wired lights, damage to seats, lost switch cover, drained new batteries to zero, blew main fuse due to improper jump starting, blown battery isolator, awning plugged in backwards, many, many go backs, etc, etc) I went to check oil before my trip last week and found one of my door props is missing. The paint shop doesn't have a clue where it is. So, I found the source and want to share it as an FYI to all here that have been of such great help to me and others. http://www.qmp-elkhart.com/

Agreed. You can bet that I listen very carefully now in case it is something that is wearing prematurely. I'm at around 120k now.

I also have an 8.3 ISC. At around 80K miles (IIRC), I could hear that I needed a valve adjustment. I took it to my mechanic and he heard the same thing. Sure enough, there were a few out of spec. Why so early in its life? Just one of those things I guess -but 150k is the max to not do anything.

A 12-page read... Here's the passage to which I think powerpro2000 is refering: https://www.monacoers.org/topic/5849-kongsburg-ccm-alternative-restoration-replacement-2009-signature/page/11/#comments:~:text=do not lie.-,I will not mention,-a specific shop

Yes, replaced it. I think I caught it right away as there was no fuel in the RV bay and only on restart in front of my house. I drove it directly to the shop - maybe 5 miles. Maybe I lucked out.

I noticed a fuel leak but only when the engine was running. Bottom line is that the electric lift pump (transfer pump on the bill) had developed a leak. My mechanic says these fail all the time and last only about 60,000 miles. Doesn't sound right to me. Thoughts? 330 ISC manufactured in September of 2000.

WOW! Nice job!

FWIW: I had my switch fail on a trip about 15 years ago. I can't remember if I just unplugged it or put a jumper on 2 of the connector ports. But I got rid of the alarm and was able to drive home in peace. I've replaced the switch 2 or 3 times and carry a spare. If there's a next time I'll do the Nodine fix.

My manual states to let one jack down 6" and fill until the alarm stops. Overfill has never been a problem. Of course YMMV...

Thanks for the ideas.

It sure pained me to drill a hole like that on a freshly painted surface. I tried to push some silicone into the crack and it just wouldn't go in - pretty narrow crack. That's a 1/8" hole and the crack is darned narrow if you compare it to the hole. And FWIW it is about eye-level.

Update. Here are some pix and what I've done so far which is to drill a 1/8" hole as sugessted. Then filled with white silicone. We'll see if it spreads from there.

As per the manual, I leave the coach plugged in. In hot weather, I need to top them off once a month. It looks like they might take a couple of cups in total. The newer the bateries are the less they take. In winter every 2 or 3 months is suficient. Same for my trailer that has solar. I leave a gallon of distilled right in the bay and it takes only a minute. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FCAXT0/?coliid=I2L9O1JY1RGL8M&colid=34YFMY4ZYSY1X&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

FWIW: I refurbed my ladder myself while it was off. The guy in the video does not install the star washers correctly. He has the assembly correct but not the installation. They are meant to be tightened from behind the plate with the bolt before installing the plate on the coach. This will draw the ladder to the plate very tightly. Pushing the ladder onto the plate after the plate is installed on the coach is the wrong way and will not result in a secure, tight, snug installation. Good find on the ladder repair kit - wish I knew about it instead of purchasing everything seperately. Thanks to everyone that has contributed so far.

It feels thicker but I can't be certain without drilling one out and measuring. I'll do that at some point.

What am I missing? The grip range looks to be about .787 (20mm). I think we need 2 to 3 ". Longest I can find is 2.002" https://www.hansonrivet.com/rivets/blind-pop-advel-rivets/extra-long-blind-rivets/

Got the coach back to day and now can post a pic of the crack.

Yes, that is what I suggested. The problem is that I don't see how one could possibly get backup washers on all of the rivets at the top. You have to be the size of a 4-year-old to climb all the way up inside the cap. I am wondering if just much longer rivets would simply stop at the fibreglass?

I’ve always been a clean radiator guy as well. I keep the bottom corners vacuumed so the road debris can’t accumulate. I use the purple stuff AutoZone or simple green with a sprayer – let it soak, spray a few times let it soak in between. Then garden hose with light spray to rinse – don’t want to bend any fins. I am careful to keep any suds off the paint because those degreasers will make it dull. I do this about every 7,000-10,000 miles or when it looks dirty. Not much rain in CA and I think it’s rain that what causes more build up. The biggest improvement in keeping the radiator clear was when I extended the crank case vent hose out to the rear past the radiator and into a catch can.

As many of you know, I had my coach painted recently (12 months ago to be exact) and I’m still working thought the final punch list. The ladder was removed, repaired, and then remounted to the rear cap using the factory holes with S Steel pop rivets. 2 weeks ago I noticed that the fiberglass has a small crack where one of the pop rivets is. The crack is new since the ladder was R&R'd. I can feel from behind that the pop rivets did not go all the way through the fiberglass and thus expanded inside the hole instead of outside of it. I’m thinking that the pop rivets are too short and I’ll eventually have cracks in all the mounting holes. The paint shop owner says no; that’s the way the factory did it originally. What say you all?

I suggest that you put some blue tape on firmly then drill the holes - you'll get a crisper hole edge that way.

Yep - me too. Perfect fit - went in better than original as well. The installation tools really make it easy. Now what to do with the other 29 nuts and tools that I'll likely never use. I know, first world problems...

Yeah, me too. Hard to go wrong for $18 and the reurn policy is great. If not the size we need I'll buy other sizes until I land on the correct one.