VinceB

I recently went with 4 T105's wet cell. I've been getting 6-7 years out of them due to the watering kit on them. My coach is parked at home and it is not a problem to water them and top them off once a month. We dry camp about 5x in the winter 4-5 days at a stretch and always have enough power. We can't run microwave on the inverter - it is only 1500 watts and that's about what the unit pulls. Batteries Unlimited in Glendora, CA gets $180 ea. at this time for T 105's.

Just had a similar problem. jacwjames got me going again. I had trouble finding the fuses, though. It is not intuitive. Remove the access panel on your genset that is by the start switch. 10mm IIRC. You have to jiggle the panle around just right to get it off. The underside of the panel has provision to hold the radiator cap along with 2 fuses. The hose that the radiator cap is on is folded down into the cavity. Yeah, I know, odd. You will pull that radiator cap up through the hole - that will unfold the radiator hose and allow you to access the 2 fuses that are mounted by the cap - follow the wires. The 25 amp fuse was "floating" by itself underneath the access panel.

A word of caution. Make sure that you measure very accurately and position everything before securing the set up. You want to make certain that the door opens only so far. I did not think about that. Now my door opens just a bit too far and hits the awning if the awning is down. Moving the strut mount on the frame aft a 1/2" would have made the diference Otherwise this is one of the best mods I've done to my coach.

I'd go with spray contact cleaner - it won't leave an oily residue nor gather dust & lint, etc.

Here is the fuse I replaced. I also found a 15a inside the cover on the genset that was blown. All working fine now.

Both chassis batteries are brand new and identical - same brand and manufacturer. Just the cases are different because of supply line issues. House batteries are all new and I brought them all up before installing them. They are wired correctly as are the chassis batteries. I replaced the 200a fuse with what was in it. Don't recall but I'll read the spare and post later.

I picked up my 2001 Diplomat from the paint shop but have a problem. Problem: Onan 7500 diesel Gen start switch on dash is dead – does nothing. Same with switch on the genset. Coincidentally, the radio switch on the dash (right next to gen sw on dash) is also dead. What I found at home: No 12v in the house: the 200 amp fuse for the house batteries was blown. I replaced the fuse and all 12v and 110v in the coach appear to work. What I think happened: while at the paint shop, they left the key on and killed the chassis batteries (6 years old so not surprised). I delivered 2 new batteries so they could stop jumping it to get the coach started. While jumping or swapping out batteries, they caused a short somewhere and blew the 200 amp fuse. The new 200 amp fuse is holding. I installed new house batteries when I got her home – took a pic so I know I’m spot on. However, I am not sure that they have the chassis batteries wired correctly. I was not allowed in the shop to do it myself. If someone has a similar or same coach and can send a pic of what the chassis batteries and wiring look like, it would be a big help in troubleshooting. Below is a pic of how things are and they look correct to me. 2 different angles so you can get the whole picture. I realize that if they have a negative to positive or vice versa, they possibly killed the mother board in the generator. I found a shop that can diagnose that, but can’t verify that the batteries are connected properly. There’s no sense in removing the genset, installing a new board, only to blow it again if the batteries are not connected properly. All that said, if the batteries are connected properly and the board tests OK or put a new one in, what else could be the problem? This is a totally foreign problem to be and so I have zero knowledge here.

In case any here have the same color scheme, Industrial ran my vinyl sticker part numbers and came up with the following paint codes that were used on the same scheme in 2002. Thanks to Sundance, I noticed that the sticker and paint codes were relative to each other. Whether or not they are exact matches remains to be seen, however. Just need to find 'Moncao Diplomat" emblems now.

Thanks. I'll check it out. Looks like the sticker numbers are taken off the paint codes. No. It looks like an incredible amount of work. I'm too old for that. And I'd have to do it in my RV bay that is visible from the street - not sure the neighbors would appreciate it. Plus it has been over 100° here for the last few days and will be high 90's for the next few weeks. I have a paint shop near me with 2 spray booths for large vehicles. Right now they have around 6 busses from Orange County, CA in various stages of repair and several RV's waiting for parts or insurance claims. So they have a large crew with a lot of experience. I'm just biting the bullet and paying the labor.

The time has come to repaint and restore. Thanks to this site, I already have headlights and tailights ordered. The Accuride Wheels will get polished in the last step. I was fortunate to find the original paint code and thus the formula for my Pacifica Blue - but only the painted part - see graphic below. Industrial Finishes (who supplied the original paint) is still in business and is very responsive and helpful. They supplied the formula in a heart beat. Unfortunately, in 2001 not 100% of the exterior was paint. The rest was tape/vinyl stickers over the gel coat. IIRC 2002 had the same color option but was by then full body paint. So there must be paint codes for the stickers. I've asked Industrial Finishes but, without a paint code, I'm afraid it is a shot in the dark. My hope is that someone here can help with the paint codes for the colors of tape/stickers I have on the coach that were changed to paint in 2002. This will facilitate the body shop duplicating the color scheme. Call me old school, but I want to get as close to original as possible. Here are the 2 TAPE COLORS needed: Lt. Pewter Metallic Vendor P/N P2984 Lt. Swedish Blue Metallic Vendor P/N P4723 Blue Jewel Metallic Vendor P/N PN5458 looks like matches the paint and so I'm not concerned about that one. Failing all the above, I'll have to rely on technology to match the color of the stickers but would rather not. Any input is appreciated.