VinceB

Another question to go along with that is, do we need the special tool to first install the jacknut before attaching the license plate and bolts.

Went to Ace Hardware today and found an old-timer that knew his stuff. I showed him my pix and he knew it was a jacknut - they don't have them but Amazon does. Question now is what size.

In high humidity areas both my AC's will short cycle. I figured out that the evaporator coils were icing up - we like to run pretty cold. So I set the fans to run continuously on high and problem solved.

As for the 275's: I had the same thought when I first got the coach and called Monaco. Tech support said to stay with the 255's stating that ride height, transmission shifting, handling, and engine tune would all be negatively affected.

Thanks. Yeah, I knew about those but they look too short for my application. Maybe in a pinch though. Thanks. Yeah, I knew about those but they look too short for my application. Maybe in a pinch though.

I'm not sure if the front plate was stolen or the paint shop never re-installed it. I must have a front plate being in CA and all and I will get new plates on Monday at AAA. My questions is where/what do I use for the receptacle for the screw that holds the front plate in? I guess I could walk (not great physically at the moment) around Autozone or O'Reilly in hope but thought it more efficient to post here. Pix tell it all. One is the front and the other is rear of the one that is still there.

Has anyone used these? I saw their ad on YouTube as a video - don't see the video on their site but looks to be impressive. https://www.peachloft.com/pages/waterproof-solder-wire-connectors-gg#overview

Walt's RV Salvage - surplus 1275 Railroad St Corona, CA 92882 Don't bother calling them - you have to go there to see what they have. Cash talks and everything is negotiable. It's a real candy store - my buddyand I go sometimes just for fun. Lots of stuff for older RVs. AFAIK they have no web site and don't do web order sales. https://www.yelp.com/biz/walts-rv-corona

Thanks. I forgot to mention that they took all the awnings off and painted them separately and painted the window frames & mirrors. The ladder came off too and that was a good opportunity to rework the star nuts inside that had rusted and come loose. There are still a few touch ups that need to be done - hard to imagine that many square feet would have zero defects. It goes back in 2 weeks for the final work and wax. As far as waiting on the color sanding I believe they were erring on the side of caution because of the many layers and because Imron takes a while to cure in the very wet weather we had this winter in So Cal. My point of all this is that it is a HUGE amount of work and you need patience, patience, patience to get it to come out right.

x2 on all the above and x1000 on not going to Mexico - a 2-day paint job there will be a case of you got what you paid for. I just went through this with my coach and decided to repaint it. Painting just the sections that were bad would make it look spotty. The paint shop took their time and did some nice work. It took them 6 weeks to copy the stripes, repair some dings, mask and prime. Then we had lots of rain so they wouldn't paint until they were happy with the temperature and humidity in the paint booth. They wouldn't do any paint correction/final buff until the paint had cured for 7 weeks they said otherwise the clear would turn hazy in a few months. So it sounded to me like they were doing their best to do it correctly. All told, it took about 6 months for it all to come together. Now the coach looks better than it did from the factory because in 2001 Monaco used decals and only below the belt line was painted. That's the good news. The bad news is that it was $25,000 a year ago and they've increased their price to $35,000 now for a 36-foot RV.

I guess that I'm strange. I took of my rock guard years ago and left it off. On another site, it was discussed by an aeronautical engineer I think. He said, and I agree, that it lets a vacuum form behind the coach which sucks things up and behind. Long story short, my Jeep started getting a lot less rock dings when I took it off. Just my 2¢

Had a problem with mine - no motor movement. I finally figured out it was the switch. Operated the switch several times and it finally made contact. Now when I go in, I leave the key off and operate the switch once in a while - no problem since I started that. As advised by ShadePro, I also keep the awning lubricated which takes strain off the motor.

I had a simlar problem. My door seals are good. So I tightened up all the screws in the rear of all 3 compartments that I could find in order to draw tight the cooling plates to the compartments. That worked like magic since they were all pretty loose. I suggest you try that in the interim and maybe it will delay the inevitable swap out. I know it is a temporary fix but I'm known to milk my equipment for as long as I can. 22 years and still going.

Had this happen on a trip. I was able to remove the cup holder that is close to the parking brake handle, reach in, and unplug the wires - that stopped the chime. Has happened 2x and now I carry a spare. Another source: https://www.airlinehyd.com/search?searchTerm=SM-1C-66R%2FWP28&sortType=relevancy&resultPage=1

I was able to climb under the coach today and this is the arrangement I have as well. Never having specifically looked with a flashlight, I assumed both filters were on the same side. Bottom line is that the best I can surmise from my receipts is that the driver side filter was on for at least 3 years. Or I was being charged for filters that I wasn’t getting which would make it a lot longer. At least my new mechanic is sharp and honest. And I’m that much more familiar with my coach.

Me too. I plan to take a closer look tomorrow. But given the number of lines and poor access I'm not optimistic about figuring it out. So do you have 2 or 3 fuel filters?

Yes and yes. Coolant filter 24071 was replaced at this service. The new-found filter on the driver's side was replaced with a 33783.

Mine is a Xantrex. I'm not running the coach per se - just leaving it plugged in so the batteries stay up. The amps draw seldom if ever goes above 9 and that's for a few minutes while on bulk charge. I'd never attempt to run AC, water heater or such on 15a but when I want to I can get the big cord out (PITA) and get 50a which is why I have both. If what I'm doing is inadvisable, I'll figure out something else. Rewiring was no fun. There's not much room nor slack to work with and the romex and wire are stiff.

Just an FYI for anyone that has a similar coach to mine: While digging into the underside of the coach looking for the air dump valves, my new mechanic noticed another fuel filter where it was not apparent there would be one. All the fuel filters are on the passenger side. This new-found one is behind the AC condenser coil on the driver side - it is on the upper right of the bay close to the engine. It was so dirty that it looked like a frame member. We don't think that it had ever been changed. My guess it is the last one before the engine so possibly the other filters were passing only clean fuel and so this one stayed clean.

UPDATE: Yes, that was it - thank you for the help. I re-wired the GFCI - took the fridge/TV circuit off the load side and put it on the line side. Everything working as it should now. It is interesting to note that if I plug the coach into the 15a circuit in my RV bay which is on a GFCI, it will trip. If I plug into the 50a that has no GFCI everything is fine.

UPDATE: Replaced the front dump valve and 2 on the rear along with the dash switch. It was a comedy of errors. The switch had corrosion on the terminals. So once the switch was replaced, we got rid of the intermittent nature of the problem and zeroed in on the front valve that was sticking. Because the rear valves were tied to the same switch (same number of duty cycles) we installed new valves there too along with all the associated fittings. Works as new and doesn't leak down overnight like it used to.

UPDATE: I called Banks tech support and they said it pays to keep the software up to date but sometimes it is solely for emissions and that the update process will state that. Ther will be an option to abort the update. So I instructed my mechanic go ahead with the update but to stop if it was emission related – sure enough it was. So no update.

Thanks for the information. I'll definitely put the circuit on the load side. Not being well-versed in 110v wiring, I don’t understand what you mean by “Monaco cheats and ran a loop” though.

Same here. But it kept tripping. I noticed that the ice maker is on the same circuit. Unplugged the fridge and it stopped tripping. Next step is to unplug ice maker to figure out if it’s the ice maker or fridge. last time it was the ice maker and I hope it’s the same thing again.

Yeah, mine did that a few years ago - only time in 19 years I've owned the coach. I took the connector apart - the only one, blew it out, checked for corrosion (none), then applied a generous amount of dielectric grease and it hasn't done it since. Even though it was a foggy night, it did not appear to be wet so I can't really say for sure what the issue was. There is a small shelf right above it - I imagine that it is there to keep water from falling directly on the connector.