olywrestle

So I just did new hoses on my 2006 Ambassador. These PN's were great! And saved me a good amount of time matching things up. A couple of notes to save people some money potentially. The 2 straight pieces of 2.25 ID hose going from radiator to pipes I could only find in 3' increments. When installing PN 70921 (Engine to Transcooler) hose, you actually cut off a large segment of straight hose. Enough to do one (1) of the straight pieces mentioned above. I could have saved money if I ordered Qty 2 of 70921 (use 1 for engine to transcooler, and other for T-stat to pipe) and Qty 1 of 70920 and used the cutoff pieces from the straight hose pieces. Example as originally posted (RockAuto pricing) Qty 2 of 70920 - $12.37 each = $24.74 Qty 1 of 70921 = $24.79 Qty 1 of 76225 (3' 2.25 ID) = $31.77 Total = $81.30 Example using logic mentioned above Qty 1 of 70920 = $12.37 Qty 2 of 70921 = $49.58 Cut pieces from 70921 as your straights (6" each) Total $61.95 Couple of other notes: I ordered the C-Low Fab surge tank, it is very nice quality and bolted right up. The included nipples out of the top of the tank, were larger diameter than the original hoses. So I opted to replace those "bleeding" lines with 3/8" heater hose which meant replacing nipples on the engine block and the pipe to top of radiator. I did the all of the hoses without removing the radiator, but this meant removing the solid pipe sections which are held on by exhaust hanger U-bolts. These of course snapped off at the ends when I tried to remove them, so you would want some on hand. I did the Restore Plus Cleaner since I knew nothing of this engine and it removed A LOT of crap. It took a good 6 or 8 flushes (I lost count) to get good clear water. So plan extra time if doing a cleaner. Thermostat kit from Cummins (PN 5284903) includes both O-rings, so no need to order extras. Needed plenty of zip ties to re-attach wiring looms to hoses. Save old hoses to eliminate rub points as required.

Did you ever figure out if it should be 2.25 or 2.125? Going to replace everything in the next couple weeks and want to get it ordered in advance.

Thanks!

Anyone else try one of these tanks?

Agree with BlueFire dropping occassionaly. I just did a 11 hour drive, and it only dropped 2 maybe 3 times but then reconnected within 30 seconds. My 9 pin adaptor is like I said in the bay in front of the drivers tire. I am running latest updates on App and adaptor. The dashboard does take a long time to figure out. I spent a lot of time messing around getting things where I wanted, but do enjoy having the data right in front of me while driving and I prefer it over "dummy" gauges. My son designed a 3d printed holder for my bluefire tablet that places it front and center but does not screw into the TOP of the dash, only under the lip out of view. The ambassador coolant and trans gauages are right behind steering column and at the bottom of the dash. They are the gauges I watch like a hawk. I hardly take my eyes off the road now.

On my 2006 Ambassador (RR8R chassis) I had 6 pin under dash and found a 9 bin in the electrical bay in front of the drivers tire. Close enough for the bluetooth to work.

PLA is not very UV or heat resistant and will likely warp or turn brittle faster than other filaments. However, if he did them for free for you, it is worth a shot to see how they hold up!

Discovering there is a lot of options for these. This would be a site where you buy the physical product from the designer.

Thanks all for the feedback. I am going to try and design a universal style where you can break the tabs to fit different weep hold dimensions. I have 4 different motorhomes I have physical access to in order to make something. I got busy with work, so my 3d files are not up yet. Will post when I get them done.

This was the style used on my 2006 Ambassador. I wonder if these would still fit yours, just a different design. The distance between the clips is really the main difference ,at least looking at online pictures, from most of the styles. The atwood ones are 1.75" from clip face to clip face (see picture).

If you have a tried and proven version, I think people would be interested in them. I just barely designed and printed mine, so drive time with them yet.

On the outside of the coach, at the bottom of the windows are small holes/slots that lets inside condensation leak to the outside of the coach. There is plastic covers that go over them to stop wind noise from coming in those holes. The covers break off pretty frequently. ***they are black, not white. The white one in my picture is one I 3d printed.

I did not know that! Do you have the winnebago PN's by chance?

I am not setup for ABS printing. If you are setup, I will try to have the stl files uploaded by tommorrow and you can give it a shot.

My son works in a place where making the molding is not that difficult, so my cost to get things setup would not be extravagant. Or maybe we would just have them make it a product they sell. Break even for me is fine, as I learn something in the process. Some libraries will 3d print files for you.

The atwood covers are no longer produced, and I think pretty much every retailer is out of stock. I have designed and 3d printed some in PETG, but not sure how strong/reliable they would be in the long run. After I do a few more test fits I will share the 3d printer files, but is there a large market for these? Me personally, the wind noise drives me crazy so I want some and my coach is missing all of them! If I was able to injection mold some, would people want them? Just trying to see if there is demand to justify me and my son making them.

Did you have to cut larger holes to fit these speakers in the ceiling? From the specs I am seeing, it looks like that would be required.

I am doing 4 individual strips per fixture, all wired directly to + and -. That way if a single strip fails, it does not take out the whole fixture or any others down the line. Once I find the LED colors I like, I will post up here, and include pictures.

@Tom Cherry Thank you for the very thorough explanation. During my troubleshooting following your recommendations I discovered it was one (or several) of the ballasts causing the excessive voltage drop, and in turn heating up the wire. I have started completely removing the ballasts and going to put LED strip lights in place of the floursecent tubes. Thank you for pointing me in the right direction.

Thats very generous and very appreciated.

@Fasthobie16 I agree switch is bad, I connected the wires directly bypassing the back bedroom switch, but I still only have 8 volts at fixtures. Any other ideas?

Is there a way to donate/subscribe/etc to help support this website?

My first post, but browsing through there is a welath of information here. Thanks to all who contribute. We just bought a 2006 Ambassador. Down the center of the coach are 5 recessed flourescent lights. Most of them were not turning on, which led me to think ballast has gone out. I ordered 12v LED strips to bypass the ballast and get rid of the flourescent. When I went to check voltage, I had only 8 volts coming into the light fixture. This was the same for all 5 of them. I started with the switch at the front door and I do have 12 volts coming in and out of the switch. So I checked the "3 way" switch in the bedroom, and it had 12 volts coming into the center pole, but one of the blue wires was really hot to the touch, and as seen in the picture has been for some time. That leads me to believe it is overloaded or shorting out where. My question is, does anyone know how and where this 3 way switching goes through the coach so I can find the problem? Alternatively, if I bypass the switch in the bedroom I would not be heartbroken, but woudl like advice on doing so. Thank!