Agpopp

I certainly did search,  but there was really no info for the Neptune crew, I assumed it's had been done by someone.

You guys are great, and I appreciate the info. It's wild to think all of us take time to help each other.  The forums are an amazing place on the internetand this is a great one.  

I'm going to get the Lyght,  and as much as I don't want to, Amazon is the easiest and cheapest store.  

Thanks again! 

6 minutes ago, DavidL said:

Make sure you clean up all those wires nicely.  The issue was the screws got loose, and heat was the result.

If there are aluminum against steel, use some antioxident on the connections.

Barrier strips are dirt cheap.  Just get a good one.

Personally I don't like the "nylon" type...to flexible...I like Phenolic better (firm, doesn't move, doesn't get loose, doesn't melt).

I know the switch works, I don't know if its possible to just replace the strips. I have some Noalox if I need it here. 

One of these is the Esco and is 400 plus and one is the Lyght....don't really see any spec difference mentioned.  

38 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

ESCO Lyght LPTBRD Transfer Switch is the one most recommend for the lower end coaches.

That was fast! Appreciate your info. I did not see that one discussed,  but it looks like a better fit with the placement of my conduits. I searched the site here and there was a post mentioning the Lyght Brand is the same as the ESCO and it seems like a well built component.  

Hi guys, and Happy New Year! Been laying low with the coach laid up for winter. I have taken it on 2 60 mile loops since winterizing back in October to keep her loose.  Today I went to plug the shore back in and decided to look at the transfer switch for no good reason, and it's burnt!

Only one terminal set, but it obviously needs replacing. I've looked at it and pictures from the web to determine it's make, wondering if was an IOTA, but I don't see any ID, and the cover is blank.  I havent come across any with the plastic terminal protectors so maybe just a cheapie from Indiana.

At any rate, I guess I'm spending.  

I've read here and it seems the latest was to use the Southwire 40100? It seems available and affordable.  Anyone with recent thoughts,  go ahead. 

I got the same email on Thanksgiving.  Wonder if my account was hacked?

On 11/1/2023 at 7:49 PM, Robert92867 said:

Someday I'm gonna find some fluorescents nobody wants.

I have a box full

On 9/24/2023 at 9:35 PM, jacwjames said:

These might work, benefit is that they seal the hole. 

https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-3327-Expansion-10-Pack/dp/B00I2VTETC

Drill the correct size hole and insert the expansion plug, then use what ever length bolt you need to be able to start the threads.

They actually sell these at Lowes, I used them to reattach the toilet blade mechanism. 

Well, these worked pretty good. Thanks for the tip. Only bummer is 1/4 20 takes a half inch hole....so there's the rub. I used stainless screws and fender washers to go with it, so if this won't hold,  on to plan C. 

14 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

These might work, benefit is that they seal the hole. 

https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-3327-Expansion-10-Pack/dp/B00I2VTETC

Drill the correct size hole and insert the expansion plug, then use what ever length bolt you need to be able to start the threads.

They actually sell these at Lowes, I used them to reattach the toilet blade mechanism. 

Good idea! Looks like I'll have to drill the hole bigger,  but I like the sealing mechanism. 

You also reminded me about Jack nuts , used to hold mirrors on truck doors back in the day. 

Sailrite is a great resource.....

https://www.sailrite.com/Awning-Sling-Chair-Spline-Cording-1-4

4 minutes ago, Steve P said:

I've been pondering... just about concluded that I'm going to remove the film and buff out whatever is left of paint and wax it good.  Then put the cover over it when parked. That way, no chafing of paint while driving.  I'll reassess of course after I get the film off.  Gonna be my October project...

Looks great!!  What make is that?  And where/how did you purchase? 

Thanks, 

Steve P

I didn't buy it, buts it's very good quality. Tag says its from here....

https://goldenhorizonrv.com/pricing/

Back after a while to tackle this. Got the exploding rivets, no good. Holes are a bit too big and it's hard to get them deep enough in the hole to get them to stay. I need some type of toggle anchor to remedy this, and I found some bullet style drywall anchor ls I'm willing to try. Otherwise, I'm gonna have to through bolt to the inside somehow and I really don't want to do that. 

I have these in hand? But am apprehensive.  

Don't know if I can squeeze a 1/4 rivet. 

Real late to the party but......PO put one on. Looks great to me, and bugs come right off!

That's my kind of repair!

9 hours ago, BradHend said:

@Agpopp Repairs are complete now.  New manifold, reman Holset VGT turbo, reman EGR valve and all new oil and coolant lines to  the turbo.  New rad hoses all around including the back to back metal 90 degree piece that I had made.  
Everything else I broke in the process as well (oil pressure sending unit, the 2 black metal coolant lines that feed the EGR cooler, the pipe that mates the EGR valve to the EGR cooler etc. etc.)

Did it all in my driveway.  Huge pain but I got it done. Learned a lot and did lots of reading. Made a few mistakes along the way, but realized them and corrected.  
I think it was 7 of the 12 manifold bolts had snapped on removal, 3 of which I was able to weld a nut on and turn them out, the rest unfortunately I drilled out. I ended up helicoiling 4 holes, 2 needed it and 2 I had to as the threads were stripped.  
Used RemFlex gaskets at the manifold and turbo connections.  Replaced all the banjo bolts, sealing washers and V-band clamps on that side of the engine.  Replaced all the Breeze spring loaded clamps for all the CAC lines. 
The few test drives I’ve done appear to be a success.  No more smoke, exhaust brake is nice and strong, lots of power on acceleration and it’s generating about 29lbs of boost with the hammer down and climbing small hills is not an issue anymore.  
Taking it up Tobermory way this weekend, hope all goes well.  
Thanks for your interest! 

That's a lot of new Cummins parts! Hope you saved some money for fuel! 

Well done....I know how hard that is to work on.

On 8/23/2023 at 8:34 PM, BradHend said:

I was getting the coach ready to take the wife and kids for a test drive following some substantial exhaust/turbo repairs and it was quite hot inside so I decided to cool it down with the rooftop units since my dash A/C is out.  
The generator fired right up, blew a bit of white smoke for 10 seconds as usual and I heard the transfer relay kick in but no A/C units started up and I had them set to cool and the temperature was set quite low on them.
I checked the status of the Intellitec remote display and it was completely dead.  Panick started to set in. 
I opened the front to check the generator breakers, both were on.  Checked for power at the transfer switch, 120V on both legs.  
Now I’m inside the coach sweating with both panels off checking everything over.  I had the 12V on pin 2 when running on generator, no obvious fried board sections anywhere, everything seemed to be checking out and I was almost ready to admit defeat as I was googling M&M Electronics when I thought it was getting too dark inside to see properly. 
Turn the lights on, nothing.  More panick set in.    
That’s when it dawned on me. 
Stupid me had the salesman switch off.  Turned it on and the A/Cs started right up as did the lights.   
Feel like a dummy, but sometimes it’s the simplest things that get overlooked.  
I thought I was in for more repairs.   😅

Thanks for reading, hope you got a laugh at my expense. 

Did the same thing last trip out. Couldn't figure it out,  realized someone traveling with us in the group of 6 must have hit it going down the stairs!

Interested to hear about the repair results on the ISB too!

I hope the brake light's don't come on with the exhaust brake switch on my Neptune. I did notice some grease on my trailer hubs after my 2800 mile trip.  Is there a way to test this parked ?

Thanks for the replies.  I have some 3/16 rivets here but can't get them to grab. I'll order some of the exploding style ans see what I can do. Thanks 

While in SD last week, my Carefree awning rivets pulled through on the top of the rear track. The holes and rivets look as if they were only through the wood paneling and fiberglass.  The holes in the coach look ok. 

I have done some searches here, and came up with a mention of exploding rivets? Surely someone has had this issue before.  Another thought I had was some type of expanding anchor?  Let me hear your thoughts!

Pic of the replacement 

Once I get a residential fridge,  I'll be there with ya.

Took the Neptune all the way to SD for the rally towing 3 bikes. At a fuel stop I could hear and smell propane leaking.  Turns out it was the female to female connector on the regulator to hose assembly. There is nothing holding the regulator in place, just a bent sheet metal foot for it to sit on. All of the bouncing over the last 50k must have done it it. I carry copper and flare tools but this one you can't make. A relief at 9 dollars and in stock at Lowes. 

Carey, just wanted to say thanks for being one issue ahead of me on my Neptune! If this comes my way I'll be prepared. Between you, BradHend, and myself, we could build a Neptune/ Cayman from scratch! 

I'm thinking you need to adjust the internals of the door. Sounds like you are only engaging the first stage of the latches. On the surface, it seems to be a difficult task to get right, but will only take a few hours.  There is a great write up here. 

Sturgis rally is next Friday so expect traffic near there. 

Thanks.  No spares, but couldn't help but think there should be something on those terminals. Just glad it wasn't a PO changearoo that I wasn't aware of. 

Thanks!