Agpopp

10 hours ago, Blacknight said:

I just replaced my overflow tank with a unit from Source Engineering and it fits perfectly. Can anyone tell me where the two hoses on the top of the tank go to?

On my 5.9 ISB, one goes to the midpoint of the upper metal coolant pipe and the other goes to the highest point on the engine bypass cooling circuit. 

Should be a regular parker style barb. The yellow is just a stopper. Cut about 3 inches from the end and reattach with a hose clamp. The factory put clamps on some and not others, and should just be 3/8 heater hose. 

On 5/23/2023 at 1:53 PM, Ivan K said:

Your 5.9 has dry sleeves so you don't need to worry about SCA/DCA at least. Check what Cummins recommended for it, I don't like mixing but some fluids are advertised as cross compatible.

That's why I just went with good ol green. 

On 5/23/2023 at 1:59 PM, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

I would flush it with distilled water and drain it. Install Fleetgard ES Compleat.  Million miles before needing changed.

Gary 05 AMB DST

Thanks for the suggestion, that's some pricey stuff! 

Well, having repair mans remorse after filling with standard green.  I dumped my old coolant for recycling, and I thought for sure it was green...a little brown too.  But in the light if the recycling shop I could see it had a pink tint to it while poring it put.  Now I wondering if I'm ok or if I need to dump it all, flush and fill with Fleet Charge or similar.  Thinking there were 2 coolants blended together before I changed it, and, how real are the internet stories of mixing the two types.  The only leftovers would have been in the heater core and lines, maybe around 2 gallons. 

I need to think on this one. 

Got the job finished today.  What an absolute mess of a job....so glad I degreased and washed the motor as I was still a fifty pig when I was done. The hoses mentioned above worked pretty much perfectly but it sucks cutting and wasting so much. The green fleetrunner belt I bought could have been another 1/2 longer, but I got it on there. I did add 1/4 turn valves for the heater hoses and also had to replace the exhaust clamp hanger mount they made for the hard pipe. 

I ended up putting back in about 8 gallons of coolant and distilled water, and I hope to run it a bit this week local to check for leaks.  I think I spotted one more 5/8 elbow and a 5/8 hose section I missed on the back of the engine. I guess I'll just carry some spares. 

Good luck to the next guy...and here's to another 17 years!

Can't pass up a Bucees! No problem with either of the FL ones on 95 with the Neptune and my Ram in tow. 

Straight from cummins I do think new. Bill was 6k and glad it wasn't mine!

I'd have to look at it to scope it out.  I do know the turbo was replaced due to vgt and egr issues not too long ago. 

On 4/27/2023 at 9:55 PM, BradHend said:

I’m having that exact pipe made up in stainless as the original has developed a small, intermittent leak.  Buddy with a metal shop is making and bending for me.  I hope to have the old girl back up and running by the end of spring at the latest…but I’m now considering replacing my VGT while I’m doing all the other work the exhaust and coolant system.  
As for that 90 degree hose and all the others I was planning on doing the same as you and sizing them up at a parts store.  
Good luck. Post what you end up doing.  I will do the same.  

I had a major jackpot while refinishing the cooling tubes on the Neptune tonight.  I feel they are still in good enough shape to put some more miles on, so after wire wheel and roloc disc cleanup,  I put on 2 coats each of primer and paint. 

But, while I was wire wheeling,  I noticed some numbers stamped on the ends, and after some super internet sleuthing, I present to the 5.9 ISB roadmaster crowd the following: 

Upper Coolant Tube

Part number:

01808094 

Lower Coolant Tube

Part Number 

01807611

Currently both available in STAINLESS for about $200 bucks each..with 2 day manufacturing from PA!

https://bhtubes.com/coolant-tube-2-x-2-1-4-diameter-replaces-01808994

https://bhtubes.com/coolant-tube-2-1-4-diameter-replaces-01807611

Now, the upper part number is 1 digit off on the upper,  but the pics they show are identical to mine. 

I don't have any idea why this manufacturer was so hard to find,  but it's awesome that these are out there with the aging fleet we are running.

So go check out BH tubes, no matter what rig you have. 

Some pics of tonight's work for reference....

I found its a 16 pound so that's what I picked up. Hope to start reassembly tomorrow.  

8 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

Are you talking about this thing?     

  

Yes that's the petcock I was referring to.  It is for the cooling...its an air bleed and I'd connected to the bypass circuits. It's fed by 3/8" heater hose with Parker style barb fittings. All of these are pressure and adds to the bill when a complete hose job is in process.  

While  I'm at at it, anyone with a Cayman  / Neptune know the rad cap pressure?  No markings on the one I took off and it needs replaced.  Thanks! 

Ok, got all of the hoses off and got to finally look at the coolant tubes. I think they looked worse than they really are. Surprisingly clean on the inside for what looked like original coolant. I plan on dressing them then primer and paint.

The coolant hose from the tank to block turns out to be 37 inches of 1 1/4 heater hose with NAPA markings so I hope to find it. 

As far as the little hoses, the oil filter had to come off and the little 90s were hard to get to. The one behind the filter is actually silicone, which I was glad to see because it takes some heat where it is. 

Had to stop for the night,  and i need to get some supplies at NAPA before putting it all back together.  

Got after it today. Have more work and hoses than I thought. There is a tiny  90 elbow up against the motor that is cracked pretty bad and there are some hoses behind the oil filter I am going ti tackle as well. Getting to be a big job!

5 hours ago, BradHend said:

My Cayman has same setup.  It’s for your cooling system. 
It comes in quite handy when draining and filling the cooling system.  Allows air in to help drain, while also allowing air out when filling. 

Thanks,  I figured it out once I looked again.  That means I have more hoses to change! 

1 hour ago, Trinidaddave said:

This is the drain for your roof air conditioner.

After really getting deep in there....it looks like a fuel bleed?? Definitely connected to engine tubing. 

Any idea what this is on my Neptune?  Upper drain for something.  Can't tell if it's water or coolant that comes out. Haven't dug too deep but seems too high up for anything coolant.  

5 hours ago, Idoc57 said:

Andrew, sorry it took me so long to respond to your question.  I was out of the country for a week.  

I did replace the hose from the coolant tank to the block.  Mine had a hose with two layers of rubber sandwiching a steel coil.  Here is a link to what I used:

https://nuwavemarine.com/boat-supplies-accessories/paint-maintenance/hardware/plumbing/marine-hose-clamps/engine-hose/trident-hose-seaflex-hardwall-1-1-2-x-12-5-25011241b/#top

It was kind of expensive, but since that is what was on there, I bit the bullet.  

Carey

Awesome Carey! 

In fact, thats what I was coming up with through my searches! It is really expensive for what it is.  Other thought was to use a corrugated style hose that be easily had since not much water is actually passing through there. 

Thank you. Check out the post I just made on the main page about hose lookup on the Dayco web site. 

5 minutes ago, Robert92867 said:

Your upper hose exiting the engine looks like my 2002 ISB.  If dimensions match it can be replaced with a Gates 21256.  Gates master coolant hose catalog online.

Would have been nice to find this earlier!  Not sure how accurate it it's but seems legit based on my 06 Neptune hoses. Check it out......

Use the application tab, heavy duty and put in your coach!

https://na.daycoaftermarket.com/en/applications/automotive/#page=application

Picked up my thermostat from Cummins.  65 bucks....I guess cheap insurance.  I can't locate the correct type of hose for the overflow tank to block so I guess I'll tear into it and work it out then. 

Last thing before I start was to decrease and pressure wash what I can to try and stay somewhat clean.  

Maybe this weekend? 

That is a furnace fan cut in/ out switch. I know, my furnace at home is a 1970! I replaced it last year. It sits in the flame and turns on the fan once the exchanger is warmed up, then it is slow to cool so the fan keeps running until it resets. All mechanical like a thermostat. 

Honeywell L4064B2236 Combination Fan and Limit Furnace Control https://a.co/d/7nVL2QI

Looks like they used it as a fire warning. Probably makes a light or alarm go off somewhere....interesting idea! 

Had a chance to adjust my entry door today.  My door seems to be a bushing model,  with no bushing present.  I was looking around for something to make one out of and gldug into the rv toolbar and came up with something I think will work for a while. 

I had some 3/8 tubing and a flare kit from a blown tire in a 5th wheel a while ago that took out my propane line. I made a little flare and cut off. Fit in there pretty good! Time will tell.

On 4/28/2023 at 9:44 AM, Idoc57 said:

Andrew,

I took my old hoses off and took them with me.  We looked through probably 50 hoses to match up the diameters and the bends.  Yeah, a listing would have been nice, but that is a "pipe dream" (pardon the pun).  It is not like asking for the upper and lower radiator hoses for a 2018 F-150.  If memory serves me, there was a shorter hose that was on the driver's side that was almost straight, but had a slight offset.  One end of one of those NAPA hoses has that slight offset and worked perfectly.  

My hard piping was in great shape.  My coach only had 18K miles at the time.  

I don't think that I replaced the little bypass hoses.  As for my heater hoses, they looked really good.  I would have changed them out too but, when I looked at what a huge job that would have been, I decided to take my chances and just carry a few feet of heater hose, a couple of double ended barb fittings, and some good quality hose clamps.  I figured that if I ever did spring a leak in one of the heater hoses, I could just cut the bad spot out and "patch" it with a piece of new hose.  I know it would have been better to replace it all but, for now I just wasn't ready to tackle that one.

I flushed my cooling system with Evapo-rust Thermocure and distilled water.  Drove the coach about 100 miles with that in it, then drained and did did 3 more complete flushes with distilled water.  It did cost a little more using only distilled water to flush, but I just didn't want tap water in the system.  I don't think you ever get it all out when you drain it.  I pulled one of the hoses off of the trans oil cooler to drain.  Don't forget to open your heater valve (full hot setting) when you drain, flush and refill.

Carey

Hey Carey, was under the Neptune today and realized there is about a 6 foot section of 1.5 inch hose that runs from the bottom of the pressure tank to the block. Did you deal with that hose?

On 4/28/2023 at 5:46 PM, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

On my 05 Ambassador, the tunnel ends after the generator. Open the generator slide and go underneath. You should be able to see to the engine compartment. It's hard to believe that Monaco would really stick us with rubber hoses for 30 feet.

Gary 05 AMB DST

Got under the front today near the heater core. I located a transition from heater hose to what looks like PEX! Pretty sure it is....and the connection is right on top of a crossmember for the stairwell. 

The bedroom door now opens in, not out into the bathroom to compete with the WC door that opens out and the shower door that opens into the same space! When 2 people try to utilize this floor plan in the stock form it's a train wreck. I don't know how anyone lived with it the other way!