Agpopp

Called cummins in Orlando,  he says that exhaust side of turbo is supplied by coach builder. You think a monaco or Rev dealer would be able to locate this part? 

(Feel free to merge with headlights thread)

So after getting fuel the 2nd time yesterday I thought,  wow....that turbo sounds pretty good....as  left the station. I didn't notice it sounding like that (maiden trip) earlier in the day, but it had been really windy up until that point.  

Well, today after washing her off at the campground, grabbed the tailpipe to wash and it swung like a playground.  Took off the engine hatch and there it was, the flange to turbo connector on the pipe metal fatigued and broke. Of course it couldn't have happened to the PO on his last trip (where would the fun be in that!?!)

Now, I can easily take the whole thing to an exhaust or truck garage,  but will anyone have a repair flange?

44k on this coach, but it is a 4 bagger so I guess it's had a bumpier life. 

Good news is, my outside TV mount is working perfectly the Voodoo Ranger is cold and Uncle Buck is on.

Thanks all. Got a new better quality "premium" switch today at Advance because there was one nearby.  Completely different quality,  so I hope that's it.  

15 hours ago, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

You might want to keep in your mind that most all parts that come from stores like Auto Zone and Advance Auto are factory seconds.  That is why I only use parts from NAPA stores.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

I've never heard that before.  

My temporary fix worked the rest of the 800 miles yesterday. Wire never felt hot with the lights hard wired on for 14 hours so it must be the replacement switch was bad out of the box. 

No special bulbs that I'm aware of. Especially as poor of light they emit. I jumped around the switch for now so I'll have to watch the jumper wire. 

6 hours ago, Walker said:

Do you have a smart wheel?

No. 

13 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

No high or low? They should be on different breakers unless they have just fuses but that should not cause a flicker. If neither works and no diagram available, I would suspect the switch since it is the last part you replaced. A voltmeter would be useful to test it out for voltage and short. Hopefully no smart wheel involved. Maybe someone here has the charts for you.

Correct. No high or low.  I have nothing.  I hope I can get to Florida in the daylight then I can troubleshoot I guess. I'll jump around and see if I can get them to fire up,  that would point to the switch itself. Otherwise I'm in for some wire chasing. 

5 minutes ago, ktloah said:

Year and make, model.of coach?

It's in my signature, but I'll definitely write it from now on.

2006 Neptune 36PDQ

I have a 2022 Ram Toad but the lights are working on it just no headlights.  I did have the sensation of something clicking in the switch while I was holding it trying to get something to happen. And I can't believe I left my spiral bound owners manual on my TV table!

And it was raining and misty from truck traffic.

Currently sitting in a Walmart parking lot after my headlights lights began to flicker then lost them completely.  This is a new to me coach and I just replaced the switch before the trip as I found it had no dash lights. We are on our way from PA to Orlando. 

I took the switch out of the dash and was jiggling while driving  trying to get to somewhere I could pull off (it was absolutely dark and I drove about 25 miles with marker lights using the car traffic for lighting.) Now I don't know if it's a short in a headlight or the new switch from Advance auto. I looked for breakers in the front wheel box but only fuses for marker and tails. Any thoughts on this? 

So what was the issue? Would be good to hear for someone who may the same in the future. Great forum so far. 

Back at it today, had my brother come and help me lift the washer into the coach. I had to trim the rear false wall to fit the vent at where it exits the Splendide. Very tight quarters, and there is no doubt if I would have put the vent in FRONT of the false wall, it would have never fit and I would have permanently scarred this beautiful Neptune.  

The rest of the work had to be done through the access hole in the closet but it wasn't too terrible after I figured out the routing of everything.  I did secure the drain elbow with a zip tie to help make sure it stays in the hole when draining.  

I also added one of the fluorescent lights I saved from the LED upgrade to the closet and picked up 12v power from the road side slide room wiring under the washer  . Why in the world they didn't install one at the factory is beyond me. Even a $2 white marker light would have provided some lighting. 

Hope someone finds this handy in the future. 

Anyone can sign up for AutoAStat free trial and punch in the vin. Good service and opened my eyes to what really happens with a lot of the salvage vehicles.  Lots and lots are bought, bodyworked to look good and resold at copart again to make quick money. Then when you get it, the frames are still trashed and they did who knows what to it and you still have a salvage title! 

Well, it's done. Drilled the hole after much debate and measuring and placed it behind the false wall as I believe it was designed. There was a brace at 48 inches above the body molding and the rear wall frame was maybe 3/4 inch away. It looks much closer than it is from the inside and I was surprised how thick the fiberglass is on these things.  I hope someone in the future can find this and see what was done here as I found no information on doing this mod to the 36pdq. 

As a side note, the vent kit from splendide is a quality item that I've boughta few of in the past ,  but in a cost cutting measure the jerks gave me 20 inches of vent. Unbelievable.  

Ok, do u guys think the vent should go on the front or back of this false wall in the wd closet? At first I thought in front but now looking at other pics, I think the other installs on the exterior walls went in the service cavity with the vent.

My floor seems very strong so I'm not worried about that aspect.  Using  a stud finder, it seems there is at least one opening that is about 24 inches off the floor, and that is the same as the Splendide outlet. I'm hesitant to drill the hole because it just doesn't seem like the vent will he able to make the 90 degree bend to leave through the side wall.  I did a little poking around last night, maybe I'll get brave and tackle it today.  

Thats why I bought an 06 with hard switch gear. I'm no fan of complicating a motorhome even further. 

10 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

Nice install @Agpopp!  Could you provide details on the LED’s you used?  I’ve been considering doing something similar, and like the lights you chose. 

My big hangup has been the cost of the maple I want to use to match the cabinets. 🤷🏻‍♂️ 

Yes, I actually planned out the whole project then came across a guy who put up a vid doing the exact same thing.  I needed 3 packs of lights (18) and had to make:

7- 6x19 and 1- 6x13 oak planks, 1/2 thick stained to match and 1-11X36.75 piece of .25 plywood for the kitchen light insert (slid in place of the crystal deco cover) 

In the vid, the guy is able to catch the ceiling plywood, but my ceiling is cut flush to the Aluminum framing, so I had to reuse the screws and drill the planks to match. 

To save on costs,  you could certainly use all 1/4 plywood as the padding of the ceiling would most likely hide the edges. 

The 2 in the slide needed switches installed as there is no wall switch,  so I drilled and filed holes to fit one in. I used wire nuts and connected to the factory pigtails. 

They are from of course, Amazon: 

Facon 4.5Inch LED RV Puck Light, DLFST4-008, Full Aluminum Recessed LED Ceiling Lights, 12V Interior Light for RV Motor-Homes Camper Caravan Trailer Boat (Pack of 6) https://a.co/d/e7vS0o9

And I don't know why the pics are upside down. 🙃 

On 3/18/2023 at 11:55 AM, allphase8 said:

i might be interested. How much and where shipping from?

 

I'm in Pittsburgh, PA. Let me know whatnthey are worth to you.  I do believe 6 are 18 inch and 1 is 12 inch. 

17 hours ago, BlueSteele said:

Can you provide a make and model number? I might be interested.

16 hours ago, greenlief said:

What are you replacing them with?  LED's?

Yes, I wanted to save on power and update the coach a bit. Also, being from the North, they take a while getting to full bright.  I made wood planks and put 2 in each location, 1 in the WC and 3 in the kitchen fixture. 

I can try to do that tomorrow.  I will have 7 of them as I'm keeping one to install in the rear closet. All work. 

Removed all the overhead 12v lights from my Neptune.  Anyone have a use for these 12v fixtures? 

7 minutes ago, DavidL said:

A detail, but the buyer is likely not in Oregon.  Oregon is where all bids subscribed to AutoBidMaster come listed under.  My bid (Michigan) was "Oregon" too.

I was going to get it driveable in Florida...wonder what the new plan is...

Yes, a detail I wish I knew when I bought and rebuilt a reflection 317 a few years ago.  I was bidding, and was in a frenzy because every time I placed a bid, some jerk from Oregon outbid me......I ran it up 2k before realizing it was me!!

I know I'm new here, but they are in for a surprise I'm sure. Probably saw the pic of engine communications failure and figured easy fix.  Most likely they'll be right here asking for help!  With the buyer fees on top of that, they are in for over 100k. No way it parts for that much. 

Up to 72k. Someone is taking a risk; all that work and a Salvage title.  I hope it can be fixed though! 

Still waiting on my vent kit.  I'll be tearing into this soon.