Agpopp

As title says,  one trip was all I could take with this crazy configuration! Had time tonight to swap it around and it seems better already! Would love to meet the floor plan designer....must have been a wine dinner sketch. Don't mind the blinds....already on the list! 

I know I saw someone else post this but couldn't find it.

Wonder if my neptune should have these? I do get windshield wobble on some roads. 

Ordered all the parts today, Was going to throw a new thermostat and gasket in while I have it apart, and might as well do the generator at the same time. I'm going to try to do it this weekend,  though I'll have to go get that tube made. I'll update as I have progress.  

1 hour ago, Idoc57 said:

I did some through the rear hatch under the bed, but most from under the coach.  I would definitely NOT want to pull the radiator assembly.

Carey

I figured I could do the same.  I am interested in the procedure if it comes to that just in case. I have found nothing on the web pertaining to the Cayman / Neptune rad removal.  I have seen some that said it was done at a shop but no first hand accounts. 

I'd like to add I did this on my Neptune right away when I got a few months back by running a 3.5mm aux cord from the TV, down the back of the A pillar trim, under the dash and to the radio. Works great.  While I was at it I also removed the TV kill switch wire so my passengers can watch some tube or movies while we drive.  

1 hour ago, Craggar said:

I made my own pipes but any muffler shop can make them as per sample for you.

That's what I was thinking would be easiest.  Thanks for the reply.

More research I did shows the ISB as using regular coolant so that will make the material purchases a bit easier. 

10 minutes ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Aren't the heater hoses metal pipe through the tunnel?

Gary 05 AMB DST

Good question. I will look into it. 

Called REV today and no help there. They have no parts, or prints. 

3 options I see....find a similar shape pipe from a classic or custom car outfitter, make my own by buying exhaust bends, or go to an exhaust shop and have one bent. I'd just need to install a weld on bung for the 1 fitting.  

Also, I posted this in the wrong cooling section and I'm sorry! 

49 minutes ago, Rikadoo said:

Heater hose, when i did my cooling system repairs i decided that for the most part the rubber hoses looked pretty good (80k miles) so i only cut out the hoses attached to the engine, about 3 feet on each (pressure / suction side) and installed silicone hose with the special full circuil clamps then i used 2 ball valves to join the new to the old hoses. The hoses that were attached to the engine were the worst looking of all, that way in case of a problem i could close them off an continue along my way.

Exactly what I was thinking. 

31 minutes ago, Idoc57 said:

Andrew,

I took my old hoses off and took them with me.  We looked through probably 50 hoses to match up the diameters and the bends.  Yeah, a listing would have been nice, but that is a "pipe dream" (pardon the pun).  It is not like asking for the upper and lower radiator hoses for a 2018 F-150.  If memory serves me, there was a shorter hose that was on the driver's side that was almost straight, but had a slight offset.  One end of one of those NAPA hoses has that slight offset and worked perfectly.  

My hard piping was in great shape.  My coach only had 18K miles at the time.  

I don't think that I replaced the little bypass hoses.  As for my heater hoses, they looked really good.  I would have changed them out too but, when I looked at what a huge job that would have been, I decided to take my chances and just carry a few feet of heater hose, a couple of double ended barb fittings, and some good quality hose clamps.  I figured that if I ever did spring a leak in one of the heater hoses, I could just cut the bad spot out and "patch" it with a piece of new hose.  I know it would have been better to replace it all but, for now I just wasn't ready to tackle that one.

I flushed my cooling system with Evapo-rust Thermocure and distilled water.  Drove the coach about 100 miles with that in it, then drained and did did 3 more complete flushes with distilled water.  It did cost a little more using only distilled water to flush, but I just didn't want tap water in the system.  I don't think you ever get it all out when you drain it.  I pulled one of the hoses off of the trans oil cooler to drain.  Don't forget to open your heater valve (full hot setting) when you drain, flush and refill.

Carey

Great info. Lastly,  did you do all of this through the floor or remove the rad?

8 hours ago, Idoc57 said:

Hey Andrew and Brad,

I might be able to save you a little leg work on the radiator hoses and the belts.  I just replaced all of them on my 2006 Cayman 37 PBD last year.  (300 ISB)  I have the Modine transmission oil cooler that looks like a big box with openings on the ends.  I was able to replace all of the hoses with just these 3 hoses from NAPA.  Seems like I had to cut at least 2 of them to make all of the (5?) hoses that I needed.  They worked out perfectly.  I don't think that I even had to use the little, short, straight hose.  Just in case you are replacing belts as well, here's what worked out well for my main Serpentine and A/C belts.  By the way, if you can get the A/C belt over that big, honkin" fan blade, you are a better man than I am!  I removed the 4 bolts that hold the fan on and slipped the belt in between the fan and pulley.  Good Luck!  I hope this helps you guys.

Carey

Carey, 

This is great info! A few questions,  

Did you match them up by trial and error or find the listing somewhere? 

How was your hard piping? Mines the only thing on my rig that looks bad!

Did you deal with the little bypass hoses around the alternator and oil filter areas?

Any attempt on the heater Hoses? I was going to cut them and add some valves for just in case at the minimum.  

I'm going to call for a price tomorrow,  but what would your friend charge to make a second? 

I have a question of where one would source the hard pipes used in the cooling system.  The only corroded piece on the whole coach is this hard pipe to the upper rad that has a fitting on it.  Im guessing thats a REV part?l

Looks like I should tackle all these rubber hoses before too long as well. 2006 with 43k and all seem to be original. Seems like they are all short sections of straight hose or some 90s I could match up at NAPA.  Then there are one or 2 small bypass hoses and the coolant jug lines and some tiny sections around the alternator, and of course the elephant in the room...the 40 feet of heater hose. 

Any thoughts on the replacement?

Thanks for the replies gentlemen! For me though,  I think the free piece of heater hose and funnel I own still beat buying more stuff or dragging 4 gallons of oil into the bedroom. 

With all the room they had, they really made to difficult to add oil. I did a lube, oil, filter and was worried for a minute I wouldn't be able to get oil back in this hog. Luckily had a piece of 5/8 rad hose and it fit my funnel perfectly.

Easier than what I went through.  Nice fix. 

On 3/29/2023 at 12:29 AM, Stephen Walsh said:

Will the rig pull this easily or is it too much weight? The towing capacity lists at 7000lbs

Just wanted to let you know I pulled my 5000 lb. 22 Ram 1500 4x4 crew with my 06 neptune 300 ISB to Florida and back no problem. WV hills obviously slow her down but once I hit NC it's not even noticeable I was towing anything at all. 

As said by another member,  I too had a V10 ford Bounder gas with 460 torque and pulled a 4000 lb ford edge with it. So all things being equal,  it does as well as that set up if you compare 4000 lb/460tq and 5000 lb/600tq. 

As far as the towing hardware,  Craigslist and marketplace will have you a tow bar and brake buddy on the cheap. 

The braking component of your question,  I felt the engine braking/ downshift combination with the allison transmission more than adequate with my RVI Toad Brake set on panic only. 

Your coach is rated at 7k towing as is mine. 

Saw some topics on other sites matching my issue:

The deadbolt on the entry door was having a hard time engaging on this new to me coach. I realized there should have been a bushing of some type to center the bolt in the door edge to allow easy engagement into the frame. I was unable to source this 50 cent part anywhere locally, so I requested a (free) sample from the manufacturer, Heyco, and it's fits perfectly.  Problem solved.  

Heyco SB 750-10

Usually just brad nailed on. Get a pry tool and just pull down slowly and the brads will pull hrough the plywood. Just had mine down in my neptune for the dinette puck lights inop, turned out to be bad switch in slide wall. 

This is pretty unbelievable.  I wonder if the air was in or out of the bags. 

Made it home 1000 miles just fine with my new flange and a stainless amazon band clamp. In fact it may be the permanent fix! 5.9 ISB owners should consider these 2 parts as a good carry spare, the exhaust on the 5.9 and 6.7 are known to break there after I have done some research. Thanks for all the replies. 

Picked up the parts this morning and have it fixed for now. It feels pretty solid,  so hoping this could be a semi permanent fix. 

What a silly thing to derail a trip for a 2 inch long 40 dollar part! Thanks to Truck City chrome shop in Orlando for tracking this down for me! 

It's a terrible feeling. I've been there a few times myself, and no matter how hard the parting is, they are worth it. 

3 hours ago, clkimmel said:

Hi Andrew,

Can you tell me more about your TV mount?

Hope the rest of your trip is trouble free😀.

 

Casey

Sure, I just made it last week.

2 pieces of 1x1/8 aluminum band, bent with 2 90s and 2 holes drilled in each one to line up with the tv mount. I did add some felt strips to the horizontal section and some rubber bumpers on the screw head as well as polish the aluminum a little. 

I added some flex loom today and it just hangs on the baggage door. The TV doesn't weigh anything so I'm not worried about the door. I ran the cables up through the access port in this bay because there is an outlet and cable hookup there already.  

Called around today to hedge my bet and see if any exhaust shops could make the flange. Not 1 out of about 20 calls. Even called Jossams. So I guess I wait and hope my part makes it from Miami. I also ordered a butt joint band clamp so I can cut it here and clamp for the trip home them get it welded later. 

Found a fitting that may work from Grand Rock Exhaust Company. I'm looking for a Walker Exhaust brand also, those are available at Napa. 

Called REV, 

Part is exhaust pipe to turbo, part number 10845429, 46 days out,  $845. 

Guess I'll call local exhaust shops!