Agpopp

Sturgis rally is next Friday so expect traffic near there. 

Thanks.  No spares, but couldn't help but think there should be something on those terminals. Just glad it wasn't a PO changearoo that I wasn't aware of. 

Thanks! 

Hey Brad, look at the pic of my alternator above and have a look. I think I'm missing some wires? Did you take any of yours before you took things apart?  Seems there should be wires on those 3 posts. Seems to work fine but it got me thinking.  

6 hours ago, dl_racing427 said:

Heck, I'd have just deleted the EGR.  Your engine will run cooler and more efficiently, your oil will stay cleaner, and cylinder and ring wear will be reduced without that mess of a system.

I've researched it for mine and there is nothing available to perform the delete as far is can tell. The egr system on these engines was installed earlier than the pickup versions, and additionally,  these are specific ECMs that no one has tuned. These are rear gear; industrial/bus versions and no such parts are available. But, I hope I can be proven wrong. 

Awesome,  love to see part numbers we can cross in case of road breakdowns. Thanks! 

Is this a Neptune / Cayman issue possibility?  That's a terrible situation to be in and I'd like to avoid it!

As a Neptune owner,  I'd like to hear how the issue was solved. Was the connection just cleaned and reinstalled?

26 minutes ago, Jeff H said:

Thank you all for the help

Wasn't as bad as I thought.  A second person makes a big difference.

Hopefully it runs for another 78000

Glad you got it fixed. I have a rear rad also, so i know what you were working with! What alternator did you go with for future reference? 

Brad, I was going to chime I'm but a little late. My Neptune just lost the oil pressure gauge coming home last week. The VDO 360023 is in fact the right one as I just finished installing mine today that came from Summit Racing  earlier in the week. I took a chance it was the right one and it threaded right in. 

And I might add, this sender is only for the gauge and the Ecm has its own....the dash and engine do not communicate, same as the dual feed coolant temp sender on the top of the engine, it is gauge connected only. 

11 hours ago, deputylynch said:

Aggpop I was just about to say that after going through the whole post! Did you find the female that matches it? Was yours buried on the top of the steering column in the dash behind the instrument panel? I still have a problem though that I'm not getting any power to pin 3 Don't know if it's a blown fuse or what? 

There is no female that matches it. I cut off the plug and wired it to my brake controller.  One is power from ignition, one is ground,  one is brake signal from relay (that may or may not be backwards...reread my post)  and one is signal wire to the rear plug. 

45 minutes ago, deputylynch said:

How many hours of my life could have been saved with a good circuit tracer! Once I had one in hand almost everything was figured out within minutes!

Attached is a picture of what I have, a miniature four pin with only four wires going to it. It was found on top of the steering wheel in the dashboard behind the instrument panel after ripping everything apart! It checks out with the attached schematic other than I still don't have any voltage to pin 3 for the brake circuit. So I'm still going to need some help with that?

When I go to the relay I have 12 volt at pole 85 which doesn't seem right according to schematic and then 30 and 86 are in a circuit together but no 12 volt power going to them as the schematic shows. Pole 87 is going up to the pin number 3 as it should but it's not getting any power. The way I read the schematic pole 85 should go to ground from the brake pedal and pole 30 & 86 should have the 12 volt to them that then would throw over to pull 87 up to pin 3? What am I missing here? Shouldn't pole 86 always go to ground and pole 30 have 12 volts then triggered over to 87 when activated by 85?

That's the same connector I posted for my Neptune the post before you started. Glad you found it. 

To make myself clearer,  the low air light AND chime came on. Maybe backfeeding from the shared chime.

Got a good one for you guys, came hole from Myrtle Beach yesterday and ran into some traffic on the fancy gap, so we took the detour up the mountain on 52. Coach did fine pulling my Ram 1500, I just took it easy.  

At the top the temp started to climb  a bit, which is no big deal because the sender monaco used for the gauge reads 3/4 hot as soon as its warmed up, and the PO spent money having the temp verified at cummins on the engine side. So it doesn't take too much to make the gauge move. The wire happened to break off the sending unit on the way down (oil pressure sender too interestingly enough on the trip as well...bad crimps) When I went to repair,  I noticed one of the 2 wires was intentionally unhooked, so I replaced both. 

Now, back to the climbing, when I got to the top I started to hear a warning buzzer starting up and when it lit...it was for low air! ( air was good, around 110) 

So my question is, was that warning chime intentionally used for the temp warning too? There is no overheat light on the dash so I thought maybe they doubled up. I was able to get it to do it on another double hill climb to verify.  Just thought it was strange but not surprised after owning this for a little while. 

Now, I did notice on big climbs that the air compressor does not seem to build pressure on hard uphill pulls, so as I was driving and thinking, I was wondering if they have something in the ecm that opens the governor to take effort off the engine?  

At any rate I'm fully aware the gauges do not actually work with the engine. But, I'll still keep my eye on things. 

20 hours ago, cbr046 said:

I have the same problem . . . . I wonder if, while driving down the road, the vacuum from the coach sucks air past the door seals and out through the condensate drain.  I have a loop in my drain but it might be overpowering the water in the condensate P trap.

I'm unable to travel until probably September.  Let me know if you try that with any effect.

- bob

 

I have the same problem . . . . I wonder if, while driving down the road, the vacuum from the coach sucks air past the door seals and out through the condensate drain.  I have a loop in my drain but it might be overpowering the water in the condensate P trap.

I'm unable to travel until probably September.  Let me know if you try that with any effect.

- bob

The internet has no actual solution,  but many have the same theory.  I did come across a few that said traveling with a window cracked did help, so I'll try that when me move. 

42 minutes ago, dennis.mcdonaugh said:

I believe anything short of installing a residential fridge is just delaying the inevitable and adds to the cost. Just do a web search and you’ll see myriad problems with all the alternatives to extend the life of the Norcold. 

I agree completely.  Though the the new 12v fridges are pretty good,  and would settle for one if they weren't so expensive.  

Came across this post after traveling with my 06 Neptune the last few days.  Had the 1200 on at the house for 2 weeks, no problem and ice cold. But, apparently when traveling it quits cooling, goes up to 60 and ruins all the food. At camp, back under 40. I've had 8 rvs and the only fridge that ever worked correctly the 12v everchill in my last tow behind.  However,  this issue is a new one for me, and I thought maybe the doors were opening and letting warm air in. At any rate, I guess I'll start shopping for a residential, because I see this issue has no real solution.  

Turned out pretty sweet!  These lights were only 10 bucks for 10! I have two more and thinking maybe put them along the front? Should bring just enough light to the campsite. 

50 minutes ago, BradHend said:

@Agpopp I can’t say that option hasn’t crossed my mind, and I for sure have not seen them listed anywhere near the price range you’re talking.  Be interested to see them.
It may not look the best, but the engine does run quite nice otherwise, hopefully some good TLC and needed replacements will buy me enough time with it.   

You're doing a great job for how hard they are to get at, the guys with side rads have it too easy!

I think someone parked mine at the end of a driveway with the duals on pavement and the rear overhang on grass for at least some portion of its life. But it's minor compared to that! 

Wow is that rusty. Have you thought about pulling and swapping rhe whole motor? Complete motors are going for about 2k here. 

We all figured you were still stuck in there! How'd you pop it?

Had a chance to tinker the last couple days and got the lights working.  Used a piece of 1/16 angle to mount to the support rail rather than drilling.  Used crimps with hear shrink, loom and  mount style zip ties.  Took power from the under step light that is wired to the entry step and porch light and cut it off completely.

I put 6 lights down the coach under the baggage doors and one on each side of the step. 

I'll take a night pic tonight. 

Good luck Brad, and sweet tool purchase! I too have the egr manifold as it turns out, and although mine is in good shape, I wonder if it can be completed eliminated and the computer bypassed somehow.  Maybe save you some future headache. 

Was going to work on my underbelly LED lights, but had a jackpot on FB Marketplace this morning and had to call an audible. Found a brand new, chaise lounge dinette that faced the correct direction to replace the table and chairs.  We had been looking for a booth, for both sleeping space and seats while driving and this does both of those, on top of providing a modern touch to the dated floorplan. 

What blew me away after installing it, is that it fit perfectly from the corner to the window valance with no room to spare!   The chase has a roller on the bottom and still leaves plenty of room for aisle walking with the slides in. 

This may be a gateway to installing the modern theater seats in place of the sleeper sofa on the kitchen side,  but we'll see. 

Can't wait to test it all out! 

Getting ready for a trip and one of the items on the list was to take care of the dim headlights on this thing.  If anyone remembers, I lost my headlights due to a brand new faulty headlight switch from Advance auto after the original one was providing no dash lights back in April.  

To help with this situation,  I tapped onto each headlight ground with a tap splice and added a secondary ground to the chassis on each side. I then added a relay to power the headlights by cutting the outbound power from the switch and rerouting. Lastly I went to install some new Silverstar Ultra 9007 and was having an easy go until I went to remove the connector from the drivers side bulb.....stuck...like..glue.  I had to cut the harness,  get back in the truck and pick up a new 9007 connector. Splice and heat shrink etc.  

Looks like they used silicone to seal the original connector and it melted all down inside and glued the two together.  I couldn't even get it apart to bench autopsy! Going out in a minute to see if my work paid off. 

Also on my list was some sort of patio lighting.  I've gone back and forth with led light strips and thier location,  and them remembered how bright and useful one blue led marker light was under the bed slide on my Grand Design 5th wheel I had before.   I was able to find a 10 pack cheap and have decided to put them under the coach along the baggage floor support rail.  Just one was illuminating the entire front of the coach when I hooked one to the cig lighter.  They are only 3/4 inch and so far I'm impressed.   I'm hoping to knock this out tomorrow so I'll update then.

Here's a few pictures for reference  

AC is up and running!  The low side port was stuck closed and it took pushing on it with a pick to pop it open.  I put my gauges on it for ambient and had 40 on both sides,  so it was really low,  but 27 is the cutoff I believe for the low pressure switch. 

I was able to get almost 3 12 oz. cans in, and it holds 34 so just about empty.  I now had 30 low, 140 high at 70 degrees ambient with the idle at 1250, little less at idle.  

So for 50 bucks and a little trouble shooting I was able to rescue what the PO spent 2600 on. Time will tell how fast it leaks out, but for now it's cold. 🥶.  

I did bench test the old coil and found it was the diode that was shorted (I assume,  because its packaged and not serviceable). After cutting all the wires except the coil leads I was able to ohm out resistance instead of 0 with the diode package connected. The guy at ACPARTS.COM did say they used to solder in a new diode for repair but no longer could after Sanden changed the design to prevent such repairs (nice). If you need anything I strongly suggest calling them and asking for Richard.  Very knowledgeable guy, and I know I've mentioned him already.  

The root cause for the failure was Monacos error in wiring that plug, and who knows how many compressors it took out in this rigs life. 

So for now, case closed. 

Clutch is operating and engaging when commanded by the dash switch, so the low pressure switch must be making contact. I need to spend some time with the gauges to determine what is going on. I'm leaning towards a blockage but can't be sure until I look at that low side port again.