vipeboy2000

23 hours ago, MyronTruex said:

I was bitten by the missed fuse syndrome in the bedroom closet as well.  Chased that sucker for too long. Can't remember the fault at the time but it was a blown fuse in that panel.

It is hard to bend and turn in there with a closet full of junk.

So I found some fuses that light up when they blow and of course have not had one blown since. But if one does, hopefully the light will show me the way. 

that's a great idea! 

I did run through every fuse with a multimeter while they were in place .. and even pulled the ones I thought could be related .. but obviously .. I missed it somehow the first couple times lol .  Anyway , thanks for the assistance.  😀 we will have ac for the beach this week so we are ecstatic. 

In the wardrobe.  One I had pulled out to test and check earlier but i swear it wasn't burned then ha.  F5 ot f6 I think marked as bedroom ceiling fan.  

Thanks so much everyone.  New control board in the front fixed the communication issue and found a burned fuse I somehow missed the first 4 times.  Chatted with Tom directly.  Very helpful.  

Using the old dometic 5 button thermostat until the next issue! 

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

Followup….

First, you will have to go to the drawings and MAYBE start looking at the Pins and the “input” and output side.

@Frank McElroy is our expert on the Dynasty….he has a 2008.  PM HIM.  Odds are he KNOWS exactly which fuse provides the power 

NOW….Myron has given you a lot of help.  BUT….your question is a little “higher level”.

The system, per Dometic design, is configured or “designed” for ONLY one 12 VDC point.  To state another way.  For each group or “section”….you only need ONE of the Control Modules…..wihich is on the Dometic breakdown as “AC Board” or something like that.  BUT, Monaco, chose to run a hard 12 VDC power line to every HVAC Unit.  That is a HARD AND FAST RULE. If I understand your problem…you have no 12 VDC to the front….that is a SINGLE control or single UNIT.  

NOW the rear is a little different…..read and UNDERSTAND this.  The 12 VDC to the front AC is the same “feed” or FUSED  circuit as the rear.  Your rear is a bit tricky.  12 VDC goes to the Rear (Zone 1) and Middle (Zone 2).  BUT THEN…Monaco broke their LOGIC or maybe CHEATED.  There is a Hidden, standalone AC Board buried….it does NOT, per Frank’s digging, a SEPARATE 12 VDC.  It works as ….HEY, here is my Data Communications cable….it gives me 12 VDC on ONE Pair.  I get my Digital MPX command signal from the OTHER Pair.

From a practical or troubleshooting plan, this is HOW I’d DO IT.

Does the REAR Thermostat have Power?  YES….YEA! I didn”t blow the house FUSE….and I know the issue is in the FRONT…

if NO!…the Thermostat is dead.  STOP any further chasing and FIND the HVAC fuse.  It IS on the House Board.

Also, since Myron is an advocate of simplicity…..start reading page 105…it has all I just, in both posts, said and explans howeach zone works.  IT IS NOT a trouble shooting guide….but unless you know the basics….as Myron does…his issues and such and his innate knowledge may not be adequate to help you.

NEXT UP…read section 8.  BUT, the Dynasty does NOT have the “panel” labels in the manual  if yours is missing, all the labels are shown in the print. BE AWARE…you may NOT have an HVAC FUSE LABEL.  My HVAC fuse is labeled “SATELLITE”.  No WHERE is that also shown as HVAC….except in the prints.

NEXT UP.  Here is what I would do….and this ASSUMES that you have found the fuse and have POWER to the rear Thermostat…..BTW…this answers the “HOW TO TEST”.  Look in the trouble Shooting guide….or download the manual for your unit,  towards the back there is section on “how to wire and install”.  Find the Ground and PLUS 12 VDC to the “AC Board”.  I THINK…and wager that the pins or the RJ connector leads, are on the print.  So…VOM on continuity…..use the GROUND connection and then check each of the 4 Pins.  THEN do the same for the 12 VDC…those two PINS are the power.  Members hace pinned out the RJ many  times before.  Think you messed yours up?  Go to the roof and pull the cover off the rear.  Pin out all 4 leads….then see if you have the same upfront. If you fried the board…then the Data Cable will not work.  You CAN swap boards or move the thermostat…..as Myron did.  

BTW….the leads are INTERCHANGEABLE.  The Data cable can come into the Zone 1 rear….to the Thermostat….and the other one goes to the Zone 2.  You can SWAP the cables.  Domietic did that for ease of installation….the Controller is basically a “Parallel” connection….so the two dangling RJ’s will work on either cable,

That’s the way….from knowing the system and helping at least 50 - 100 folks, like yourself, troubleshoot….once you have the basics of how it works,,,,testing is easy.

Good Luck…

 

Thanks! So there is a hidden rear thermostat? or are you saying on yours there is.. My single thermostat controls all 4 zones in ours. I believe i found the a/c control fuse, tied in with my bedroom ceiling fan and doorbell.. that fuse and all the other fuses are fine in my bedroom wardrobe panel, FRB and RRB. 

Good to know that the connections for the data /therm cables don't really matter. Thanks!

So I  THINK I have narrowed it down to either damaged front board or somehow the thermostat... I will check power going to the board either tonight or tomorrow.. Have downloaded and read and will re-read all those troubleshooting documents many many times as I go through each item this weekend. I do have one control board and a new Micro air thermostat on order as well to cover my bases (hopefully they arrive soon) 


Thanks guys so much. 

Thanks.  Mine has a molex as well.  It does seem that I'm not getting 12 v to the 3amp fuse in the unit.  I'll check the pins in the molex next.  Will any rj12 phone cable work to test the thermostat directly at the unit? And how can you tell which port is the one for the thermostat.  Both of them go into that sheathed bundle so I can't tell. 

Thanks! I will check all that. Mine is the single thermostat.  I checked all the fuses in my bedroom closet and those are all fine.  Zero power to the thermostat . So I'm thinking I royally messed up the main control board in the front ac when I removed it to check/fix the phone connector port.  As after that, is when I got no power to the thermostat at all. Will update as I troubleshoot.  Thank you for the diagram. 

Also, would switching off the main battery cutoffs at my batteries cut off the 12v to the ac ? That plus disconnect from shore power should make sure things aren't hot right? 

Hey guys.  It's me again . I may have inadvertently fried either my control board in the front ac or the thermostat . 

I had turned off all the 120v breakers to the ac units and hit the battery disconnect in the coach ... but forgot to do the main disconnect at the battery. 

Front ac capacitor failed so was replacing it. Did not notice how tight the phone cable control wire was when re inserting the new capacitor and bent the ports and may have broken a pin.  So I disconnected everything to re solder the connector.  I saw a spark where the 3amp fuse is when it brushed up against a wire and the 3 amp fuse burned.  I re soldered and put a new 3 amp fuse in and re connected everything. I now have no power at all to the inside thermostat . 

Thoughts? Thanks everyone.  Of course I decide to do this 5 days before myrtle beach... if we can't get ac we probably will need to cancel as we need to be able to work from the rv and it will he too hot.  

yes, I was somehow able to put it in incorrectly lol and it did light up the wrong filament for the brake... but the running light wouldn't work. 

8 minutes ago, 8thDegree said:

Denis;

I have learned that the Dynasty's from the late 90s used the Chevy truck tail lights from the 70s and 80s.  What Monaco changed was that the Chevy version had a reverse light that uses a 1156 bulb with a 2 wire socket.  My stock tail light setup, my coach had the 3 wire, 1157 bulb and socket on both holes of the mounting plate in all 4 of the tail lights (4 1157 bulbs and sockets on EACH side of the coach).  It was when installing the new updated Chevy tail light base plates that I noticed the differences in the holes.  I was able to get them to fit, but now all my lower lights do not work with the brake and turn signals.

Would you happen to know if there is a relay that controls those bulbs?  If so, where should I look for it??

As I also noted, different filaments are being lit on different bulbs.  For instance, when I turn on the running lights, most bulbs lit with the smaller filament that is not as bright.  However, one bulb on each side lights with the larger brighter filament for this.  Same thing on the 4 bulbs working now with turn signals and brake lights.  2 bulbs are using smaller filaments for these functions.  I only noticed this with the new tail light lenses as they are much easier to see thru than the old ones.

I have only replaced 1 light socket and I matched the colors of the 3 wires and it worked perfectly with brake, turn and running lights last year when I replaced it.  However, it now only shows up with running lights.  I am fairly sure that they are wired as original from factory.  Don't see any splices or changes at least where it is visible.

Thanks for your help and would love any advice on where to look for what controls the brake light and turn signal signals with the lower set of 1157 bulbs on each tail light.

Warren

I'm assuming you've tried spinning the bulb 180 degrees in the socket? i had an issue with a jeep with the same bulb, the wrong filament turned on and it was sensitive to how the bulb was inserted into the socket.

Yes, We got Calyx last year on the top tier sustainer to get the mifi 5g hotspot as we needed the best device for two people working remotely on video calls. as a backup we also have the verizon mobile internet from FMCA. Obviously, your experience will vary as it depends on t-mobile/verizon towers but everywhere we were last year , both worked great, with t-mobile being faster than verizon 90% of the time. 

@Les Hurdle for this generation dynasty I got mine on Amazon if you search ipcw Ford excursion or Econoline led tail lights. 

@Rob Monda I got the same ipcw tails on our dynasty.  Is yours the same where the brake and turn signal brightness differential between the normal running lights and brake lights is very minimal ? It is hard to tell when the brakes or turn signals are flashing when the normal running\head  lights are on with ours.  I'm trying to figure out if my wiring was plugged in backwards or something.  

On 3/23/2024 at 6:53 AM, Rob Monda said:

The white section of my back up lights were there as they are on Ford vans. The lights on my bumper light up with the landing light switch on the dashboard. The back up lights are in the tail lights as they were from the factory  and work. The hookup was basically you use the original harness. The back up lights were reused and just mount in the new tail lights. The tail light harness plugs in to one of the existing bulb sockets. They are a lot sharper,brighter and work with no hyper flash. I am very happy with them

yes, the wet bay will turn on the heat exchanger all on it's own even if the inside thermostat is fully off with the aquahot on. No need for any zones to be on inside. 

14 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

NOPE....be careful....the Diplomat does NOT have the same system nor does it have the MPX that the 2008 has.  Your 2008 should allow the Wet Bay to be on without any rear zone.  My 2009 is the same.  I don't know about the 2012 Diplomats....and the AH was not, I think, an option in 2009.

Look at this print....it shows that your wet bay will work as long as the AH is on... BUT there is, somewhere, an ON/OFF switch...which Monaco obviously did not want to divulge the location.

MY ADVICE....your 2008 manual, per Frank, is NOT correct.  Download the 2009 Dynasty and READ IT.  It seems to clarify a BUNCH.  If you still are questioning or need an explanation, PM @Frank McElroy and he will respond or answer.

This sort of "illustrates" my original comment...  BE CAREFUL.... just because one's MH has an AH....there are several different models.  And, based on the specific year, Monaco may have wired it differently.  SO a 2009 Camelot's controls are ALL through just the 5 Button.  NOW, there is a remote switch in mine for controlling the bathroom heater.  

BUT, in 2008 (maybe 2007), Monaco started to integrate or use the Intellitec MPX to allow you to TURN ON the AH, so the control panel is TOTALLY different.  They also allowed you to have a "variable" speed fan for the front.  Don't know what other "mischief" they came up with later.

BUT, in 2012, they "dropped" or there is no ONLINE manual for the Camelot.  The Dynasty STILL has the FULLY MPX INTERIOR lighting system.  BUT, the Diplomat does NOT...  To make it MORE confusing....my 2009 Camelot DOES have a Hybrid MPX...but it does NOT control or get involved with the Aquahot...like the 2008 does...  So, information on how the AH works for 2012 may not, actually is probably not how the 2008 MPX works.

Not calling out @dandick66, he DOES say "IF".  What the staff is now requesting is that when one makes a statement like this, check out the Owner's manual or pull the prints FIRST...  Often times it is taken as absolute or at face value and folks chase down something that is not there.

This is NOT the first time....nor will it be the last....but since we have a lot more members and Navistar made changes....and GOD ONLY KNOW ABOUT REV.... it is becoming more and more an issue and we are having to correct it more...which takes our time...and we ask that folks understand that, say, an AH may not work the same way.

Thank to all for understanding and helping out.

Thanks for the explanation..

I'll definitely run some tests with with everything off house wise, and see if wet bay still activates... It is odd to put a separate blower switch for the bathroom though if it's the only zone 4 heat exchanger.. but who knows why lol. 🙂

I'm assuming, the actual "comfort control"  should be "ON" but all 4 zones "OFF" and the wet bay should still turn on if it drops below the set separate thermostat for the wet bay exchanger. Or can the "comfort control (thermostat in the hall) be fully "OFF" but as long as the aquahot is on, the wet bay should still work on it's own..

This thread is fortuitous as we are considering leaving just wet bay heat on while leaving the mh at families for 2.5 weeks before another trip... temps should be around 30 lows at night. 

3 minutes ago, dandick66 said:

If yours is like my 2012 Diplomat, then zone 4 is the bath and wet bay.  The switch in the bathroom is to disable the fan in the bathroom if you only want the wet bay heat.  

oo, that makes so much sense! i was like why is there a switch for just the bathroom fan.. lol Thanks. i'm going to test it out.

15 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

This is how your system was designed.  Same as on my 2008 Dynasty

Zone 1 = Front roof AC/HP and furnace (aqua hot) - remote temp sensor up front

Zone 2 = Center roof AC/HP  (NO furnace) - temp sensor inside the thermostat

Zone 3 = Rear roof AC/HP and furnace (aqua hot) - remote temp sensor in bedroom

Zone 4 = Bath furnace (aqua hot and a hidden control box behind the thermostat) (NO roof AC/HP) - remote temp sensor in bathroom

BTW, don't be surprised is some zones don't have heat.  The zone check valves often stick if not regularly used.  If this happens, give them a few sharp hits with the plastic handle of a screwdriver.  The check valves are just below the top outlets of the Aquahot zone hoses.  sometimes just hitting that hose connection is enough to free the check valve without removing the Aquahot cover.

My 08 Dynasty squire is the same setup with the zones. 

I'll add that playing around with it , to your question about the aqhot L M H button in the kitchen turns on the fans in the kitchen slide on mine, but it is connected to ZONE 1 , the button light /fans will cycle with zone 1.

Zone 4 , Bath furnace only, but the fan won't run on mine as i have another button labeled aquahot blower in my bathroom that needs to be on for the actual fan to cycle on/off with the thermostat.

I have tested my basement sensor and it works to turn on the blower in the wet bay.. but haven't verified which zone needs to be on for the basement to be activated since all zones were set to furnace when i tested the basement. 

22 hours ago, DBRV.0 said:

I have 4 zones in the living area, with #4 being the rear bath.  #4 sensor is in the bath, and there is a heat vent that shoots out of the bottom of the closet (which is oriented across the whole coach rear).  The wall thermostat manages this area correctly.  My basement wet bay has it's own radiator and sensor.  The sensor is lying on top of the black tank.

Thanks for the vacuum tip.  I'll try your path, now that I know it is unlikely to be a switch somewhere else.

Now that's interesting.  I found a button above the sink that reads "Aqhot Lo M H".  Pressing it allows what appears to be 3 options before it cycles off (4th press), but nothing happens.  Perhaps this is supposed to blow air in conjunction with Zone 1 activity (on/off)?

found this on a transmission info sites:

 

35 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

Always thought the early Santiams looked like that they had Chevy S10 headlights 

looks like 2003 + santiams actually had the 1998-2005 GMC Jimmy Headlights... (which i think were the same shape but slightly different reflector design as the gmc sonoma at the time... the s10's had split lights ) 

17 hours ago, 2002 Beaver said:

Do you by any chance know what headlights and tail lights are for a 2002 beaver santiam? 

1997-2004 (W164) Mercedes ML headlights.. Looks like the santiam originally came with the 'pre-facelift" 1997-2001 model year headlights that were not projector... but the facelift 2002-2004 projector style may fit as well and probably will give out much better light output like what jmatusic posted above this. 
I'm assuming your coach does NOT have HID or Xenon bulbs in those assembly? you can get OEM replacements such as these: 2001 MERCEDES-BENZ ML320 3.2L V6 Headlamp Assembly | RockAuto

These are the OEM facelift with projectors which is offered in both halogen and xenon, i DO NOT KNOW if the wiring is the same as the pre-facelift style.. 2002 MERCEDES-BENZ ML320 3.2L V6 Headlamp Assembly | RockAuto

There are aftermarket options as well: https://www.carparts.com/headlight?&vehicle[cylinders]=6&vehicle[liter]=3.2&vehicle[submodel]=Base&vehicle[model]=ML320&vehicle[make]=Mercedes_Benz&vehicle[year]=2000 

https://www.amazon.com/1998-2001-Mercedes-Projector-Headlights-Headlamp/dp/B07HMDSR17?th=1 

Etc. 

17 hours ago, 2002 Beaver said:

Do you by any chance know what headlights and tail lights are for a 2002 beaver santiam? 

Tail light assembly looks to be pre-facelift 1998-1999 ford ranger,, in 2000 they updated the amber turn to red.. but it should still fit. 
1998 FORD RANGER 3.0L V6 Tail Lamp Assembly | RockAuto
https://www.amazon.com/98-ford-ranger-taillights/s?k=98+ford+ranger+taillights

On 9/23/2023 at 12:15 PM, waterskier_1 said:

Dave, I know you had an 05 Exec, but the 03 -06 Lincoln Navigator don't look like what I as shown below.  These are the same as 3 other 05 Exec's I've seen so fluff thought they were OEM. Are these 3rd party aftermarket?

On 9/23/2023 at 1:17 PM, MJ.STIGER said:

I find this image but it looks a bit a skew so its throwing me off. 

I have the same stay as posted above. 

 

The tail lights on the 05 executive looks like it is from a 1998-2002 lincoln navigator and monaco did use aftermarket ones at the time.... I don't think the original ones are sold anywhere but other either factory or other 3rd party aftermarket assemblies should work just fine different design but should have the same plugs/lightbulbs etc . Such as  : https://www.tunersdepot.com/1999-lincoln-navigator-tail-lights-altezza-style/ks-altezza-tail-lights-9916.html
or
https://www.andysautosport.com/products/anzo__211109.html 

Searched but haven't seen any relevant threads... I'm sure it's a easy fix, but when we slide our generator in, the cables/hoses that connect to the generator sit on the generator exhaust, we have to crawl under while it's being slid in and route the cables above a crossmember to keep it from melting on the exhaust... How are these lines held up to prevent this? Have tried zip tying them but obviously can't zip tie them in a way that prevents it from being slid out... 

EDIT:: Just saw the previous post from @LakeBob about the parts list that has them all listed that's awesome. 

most motorhomes have headlights/tailights from existing cars/trucks.. it's a fun game we have to figure out where they are from.. obviously some are just standard 3rd party lights that are DOT approved for trailers/projectors but most are from another vehicle... I haven't seen a list anywhere and was thinking it would be fun to make a app that tries to pull all that data into to search..  some examples for monacos on the top of my head.

• 05-11 camelot has buick century headlights, taillights from first generation 93-98 jeep grand cherokee..
• 03-04 camelot has ~2000-2006 suburban/silverado/tahoe headlights, red taillights were from old 80's gmc c/k trucks ambers were the same but with amber lenses
• 05-10 signature has 03-06 ford expedition headlights, taillights from 04-07 chevy silverado
• 06-11 dynasty has 05-06 ford excursion/f250 headlights, and ford excursion/E-series van taillights.
• etc. most of monaco's are from other vehicles.. I can try and help find anyone else who is trying to figure out which light assembly is on their coach if it is sourced from another vehicle.
• partners parents fleetwood revolution is ford contour headlights... the newer revolutions used first gen lexus rx headlights.. lol.

This is great!! we are needing to tackle our upper roof radius beltline so this is perfect timing.

12 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

I would love to drive your rig before and after putting the bolt back together or better yet, drive it without knowing if it’s connected or not and post the improvement in handling.

Yes, I’m doubting Thomas as I put in 12+ hour days on the S-10 chassis (100,000+ miles) on the Watts Link improving its handling???

I'll definitely update once we get it back together and driven to share.