Rob Monda

Just finished re-installing microwave. I changed the start capacitor and it started right up. Pretty easy getting back in I put the unit on a milk crate on top of the counter and was able the angle the back up in to bracket then lift the front and screw in the mounting screws.The part cost me $54 including shipping from repair clinic. On to the next problem. Thanks for all the help

With LEDs it is harder to see the difference in brightness during the day. I found the same thing when I upgraded headlights and fog lights to LED. The LED head lights and fog lights are a lot brighter at night. I know there is a noticeable difference with the tail lights at night. I had gotten a blowout and was stuck on an interstate in Connecticut for 12 hours and decided I needed brighter tail lights after watching all the road warriors blasting by at 90+ for several hours

The white section of my back up lights were there as they are on Ford vans. The lights on my bumper light up with the landing light switch on the dashboard. The back up lights are in the tail lights as they were from the factory and work. The hookup was basically you use the original harness. The back up lights were reused and just mount in the new tail lights. The tail light harness plugs in to one of the existing bulb sockets. They are a lot sharper,brighter and work with no hyper flash. I am very happy with them

I had this issue with mine on my 06. Mine had 2 sets of Ford E series van taillights. I searched and upgraded to IPCW LEDs . I found them on Ebay. After searching different brands I bought the IPCW on Ebay for about $275 a set. I was looking at others on a Google search that were about double the price. I had to do a little modification but they are basically plug and play. You end up using the original back up bulb but the tail lights are LED. I am very happy with them and the look great. I also have no issues with Hyper Flashing which is something That I was concerned about. If you zoom in on this pic you can see them

OK so yesterday I removed it with no difficulty. It had the two screws under the grease filters as Dr4film had said and there were two square head screws attaching microwave to cabinets. It came right out. After watching some youtube out came the multi meter and I checked the start cap which I believe is shorted. I ordered yesterday and we will see if that corrects the issue. The unit itself is pretty clean so I figured I would try to fix. I am seeing replacement cost up around $600. I did have a problem with my rear AC blowing fuses and that also turned out to be a power cap. Pretty easy to change just have to be careful with high voltage. Part should be here tomorrow and I will keep you posted. Thanks

After reviewing some of the info you guys passed along I took a good look at it this morning. I tried two fuses powered it up and turned on with the carousel off. The machine made a growling sound and then blew the internal fuse again. It was manufactured in 2004 so I think it is time to change. It looks like there are two screws where the grease filters are. I do not see any screws going thru the top of the unit. I am going to try and remove today. Thanks for all of the input

My Sharp carousel microwave keeps blowing the internal fuse. I am thinking of changing the unit because it is the original and approximately 18 years old at this point. Does anyone know if the upper wood trim panel pop off like some of the other trim panels in the kitchen. I figured I would ask before taking apart. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

I have no water in my fresh tank will it fire if there is no water in the system?

OK I will check Thanks

So I was having some recent trouble with my Aqua Hot. I was working fine most of the winter then I started smelling raw diesel dripping from the tailpipe. I changed my R filter and changed the nozzle. I have a nice spray mist coming out when I tested but it still wont ignite. I also checked the electrodes for proper placement and found them to be perfect. Is there any way to check the coil? I checked for 12 volt with the pump running at the coil and had no power. The wires I tested are the two coming out of the pump that attach to the coil. Any Advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I will let you know how it works out. It wasn't much fuel coming out more of a drip but the smell of raw diesel is always a red flag

I am having the same problem with mine at this point. I realized it when I had it on and smell raw diesel dripping from the tail pipe. Also No heat was coming from the exhaust. Just ordered new filter Gar Ber R and a new nozzle. Waiting for them to arrive but I believe the service will solve the issue. I haven't serviced in 2 years.

I contacted Paul Whittle regarding my cameras. He had what I needed and I was able to replace on the rig without removing the mirrors. The hardest part of the job was replacing the screws and getting the old hardware to work smoothly. Other than that cameras work great. Thanks again Paul It was great speaking with you

Sounds good thanks

Where do you find the dump valve? I have an 06 Dynasty