Tdkkart

At this point, I doubt that neither your batteries or your alternator are bad, sound more to me like a bad connection somewhere in the chain.

Our '95 has 2 switches on the front of the sink cabinet, the propane one has a red light beside it that comes on when you flip the switch, then goes out when the gas ignites and stays off unless there is an error. The electric switch is also there, flip it on and wait, you should start getting warm water in 30 minutes or so. Ours is a 10 gallon unit and holds heat for an amazing amount of time after it is shut off.

This one fit the bill? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H7I6XHQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Same dealer has them on Ebay as well and came highly recommended on a couple forums. So far it seems to be working just fine on mine, doesn't drain the battery overnight like the last one that was on it, and does work with isolator system.

Well then, you'll need to start with batteries, or their connections first. Get it started, then check to see if the alternator is keeping up.

Any name brand off the shelf oil in the proper viscosity range will be fine. Oil companies are not in the business of making crappy products, they stand to lose MUCH more if the public starts having proven oil related failures.

Put a volt meter across the battery, measure the voltage. Start the engine, wait a couple minutes, check the voltage again, if the voltage is going up above the first measurement, the alternator is likely OK. Turn on items like the headlights and the heater fan while increasing the engine speed to 1500rpm, the voltage should remain fairly constant.

I ran across mine in the front run bay, drivers side, in front of the front wheel. On a related note, where the old style turn signal flashers simply contained a small heater and a bimetal strip and didn't care which way they were hooked up, the new style "LED compatible" flashers are polarity sensitive, +/- terminals have to be observed and abided or they won't work correctly, if at all.

Ha Ha Ha, you think Monaco follows the rules when it comes to electrical convention?? I bet not, especially when there's nothing in the system that requires #10 wire.

Okay, some answers to the questions I generated: 1. I am not the original owner, bought this coach this past Tuesday, and from what I can figure, I am owner number 4. Owner #1 was from 1995 to 2008, #2 was from 2008 to approx. 2021, #3 from 2021 to this week. Lots of records from the first 2 owners, looks like things were reasonably well taken care of, and few modifications were done between then and now. IF anything was replaced it was replaced the same as OEM. Previous owner to me did little to nothing, including NOT doing most of what he told me he had, the more I looked and talked to him, the further apart the ends of the string got. This coach "checked all the boxes" of what we had in mind for a coach, Excellent manufacturer, correct vintage, correct engine, no slides etc ec. We wanted a good solid coach without all the late model bells and whistles. The price was right enough that I committed the cardinal sin and did not have a professional inspection sheet filled out, I checked that most of the primary systems were in reasonable condition and drove it home. 2. I have nearly 40 years of experience in electronics and mechanical repair and troubleshooting. The first 1/2 of my career was testing and troubleshooting nearly every part of the instrumentation and flight control systems of Boeing airliners. Open the cockpit door of nearly every model Boeing airline built between 1985 and present, I've worked on just about everything you'll see in cockpit, and a large portion of what's in the electronics bay below. The 2nd half of my career has been in maintenance and troubleshooting of all the equipment and process used to build the above electronics. I tell people I fix everything from electric pencil sharpeners to CNC machine tools. Hence, there's very little in the sub-systems of this coach that I'm unfamiliar with or afraid to work with, however..........One of the major things I have learned in this career is that prior to just diving in, CONSULT THE EXPERTS, the people that you can identify as having direct experience in what you're about to attempt. most of the time this will save you a lot of time and frustration. SO HERE I AM, and with the diagrams and schematics I;ve been presented with here, I have a pretty good idea of where my problem is gonna be. 3. Inverter is either original, or if it has been replaced it was replaced with the same Freedom 20 that was there originally installed, same with the main transfer switch controlling shore power vs generator. 4. Yes, I have all the original GFCIs, or at least still have GFCIs in all the original positions. So, taking a look at the schematics provided by Mr Cherry, THANK YOU very much Tom, I have a real suspicion that the top 2 relays in the box beside the breaker panel are not switching, so they are getting full time power from the inverter, AND when the 2 breakers in question are turned on, relays are being fed from 2 sources, which shows up as a short, tripping the breakers. It may be a bit of time before I get back with a resolution to this issue, I'm headed out to finish rebuilding the front door step(DON'T cover your step with carpet, it holds moisture and turns your step into rust flavored swiss cheese), and finish putting the dash back together after replacing the blower fan and it's resistor, which was a grand task. THANK YOU all for your assistance, I'm sure I'll be back with more issues.

1995 Dynasty, in the main breaker panel in the bedroom there are 2 breakers, labeled :"front recept" and "rear recept". When connected to shore power these 2 breakers trip as soon as they are turned on. With the 50 amp main breaker turned off the breakers will stay turned on. Problem #1, I can't find any receptacles that aren't powered even when these breakers are tripped off. Any ideas when these breakers control?

Newbie here, just got our 1995 Dynasty home yesterday and already used the parts list resource this morning.