Tdkkart

I should have clarified, the water is coming FROM the passenger side and running TO the wet bay on the driver's side.

1995 Monaco Dynasty, just awakened from his winter slumber, start checking systems, so hooked up the hose to fill the water tank and had water pouring out on the ground?? Crap, thought for sure the water tank had frozen and broke, as the water was running out from under the tank on the wet bay end(driver's side). After doing some studying of the situation and some process of elimination I figure out its not likely the tank, but rather coming from somewhere else, as it only actively leaked when the water system was pressurized. Went to the manifold(1st pic) under the sink, turned off all the valves, turned the supply hose back on to pressurize and now there's no leaks heard. Turn on each circuit individually, and the one labeled "service center" is audibly flowing water when turned on and has a river flowing out under the water tank in the wet bay. "Service Center"?? What the heck is that and where is it?? After some tracing, I see the lines in the 2nd pic, these run across the back of the bay where the water pump. water heater, pressure tank and inverter reside, come down from under the kitchen cabinets and run to the passenger side behind the panel where the transfer switch is hanging. These make sense, but there's too many of them, there's only a bathroom sink and shower on that side of the coach, so hot and cold for each makes 4 lines, but there's 6 lines headed that way. Where do the others go??t **EDIT for clarification** When the Service Center line is on, the water is coming FROM the middle to passenger side of the coach and running TO the wet bay compartment on the drivers side. Thanks for any help you can come up with. Tom

There is more than 1 inverter, including some Victrons on the market that will do "power sharing", ie: use solar when there's solar available, and will sync up and use shore power as needed to either fully replace or augment the solar. So, yes, in your case the solar can indeed be used to offset the power that would normally go through the meter. Whether you can get enough to offset the cost of the solar equipment involves some math, including some "save the planet feel good", or some "just because I can" multiplier.

Certainly well within the error of a wooden tire knocker, or even a practiced operator of a claw hammer.

Well, yes, probably, but you're not really supposed to tell anyone you resorted to such hackery. If you find it a challenge to get at the hardware etc, go ahead and cut them off, BUT don't forget you have to get at the very same hardware to put the new ones on also, so you're not gaining much.

Well, that's what he said, but I suspect he may have meant chassis batteries? Maybe? Mine charges both when on shore power.

Some people just can't grasp the fact there are those of us out there that can look at one of these kits of loosely assembled parts and really not be phased by any of it, whether it be the engine, suspension system, HVAC,, or the A/C and D/C electrical systems. It's just parts, most of them are pretty d*** basic, and more than likely most of it was designed and assembled by folks that really didn't have a clue how the whole machine functioned after it was fully built. Been watching your posts and vids for a LONG time, on the Garage Journal pages and most of your YouTube vids as well. I have the same background and close to the same careers, so I get it. Keep up the good work and don't let the occasional clown deter you. Tom

Polish up the metal part with Scotchbrite and try it again. Mine was doing the same and cleaning it fixed it. Pretty common issues from what I've seen.

I've seen more than one mention, and it does work in our bus as well, just open the bathroom door 1/2 way, let go of it and see which way it swings. I see someone mentioned 6 degrees?? 6 degrees is a LOT, more than enough that you will definitely feel, although as I mentioned above, I see a lot of rigs in campgrounds that I wonder how the occupants are standing up??

If it's the same as the one in our Dynasty you can loosen the bolt that holds the level to the bracket and wobble the level around to get it sync'd up with the world. Myself, I use a bubble level on my phone that I lay on the center console or on the floor of the bus. The Hoppy levels linked above made me laugh, I see trailers and motorhomes in campgrounds all the time that are obviously WAY off level and I have to wonder what they're leveling from? One in particular was parked across from us, had the Hoppy style levels on the front and side if one corner where I could see them from the road. Both the level bubbles were dead on yet the trailer was crazily unlevel. maybe we didn't realize the trailer needed to be leveled before installing the levels?

I give up........

If you go to all the trouble of weighing each corner, then consult the chart, why would you vary from the number you came up with?

And even after all that, your chances of destroying a tire due to road debris is exactly the same, doesn't matter how old the tires are. Keep an eye on pressure and temperature, change them when you feel the need.

I guess the first thing I would do would be to pull up in front of a tire shop with your RV and ask them to swap out the wheel while you relax in their lobby. Or....... If you're like me and insist on doing things yourself, the purchase of one of these gems will do wonders for your ability to remove those lug nuts: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L89VQ92?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 Now realize that the torque multiplier works on a gear ratio(58:1 in this case), it takes 58 turns of the crank to turn the lug nut one turn, so use the multiplier to loosen all the lugs, and then use your favorite zip gun to spin them all the way off. I would not use a pipe on a torque wrench, but it's your wrench so have fun if you must...........

Multiple schools of thought here, ranging from doing nothing at all, all the way to disconnecting and grounding everything. Talk to a bunch of welders that weld on trucks and heavy equipment(most of which today has as much electronics as our RVs) every day and I'll be that 80% or more do nothing other than make sure the ground is as close as possible to the welding. Disconnecting ECUs? I'd be more worried about some mallet-fisted welder damaging the connectors than smoking the electronics.