John C

I can't believe I did this!!!! Guess I am entitled to have a senior moment as I just turned 55! Anyway, I finished replacing carpet with vinyl plank floor and need to add more seat belt to the passenger side sofa, while wait for the seat belt, I forgot to tighten one bolt (from slide bottom to the floor to secure the sofa) , when I finally ready to do the seat belt, I extended the slide, but that bolt dropped half way and broke and twisted a piece a aluminum and seal, it also pulled a piece of plywood out (please see attached) I guess the first thing I have to do is jack up the slide(no sure how much to jack it up) and take the aluminum piece out and put the plywood back. that carpet is the area I can't reach, I will just yank it out. I will probably remove the floor in order to put the plywood back. No sure if aluminum piece is salvageable ,as it broke on the right side I will have to replace that aluminum, it will probably has to be custom made?? Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

Thank you for all the responses, yes, I do have 3 Exhausting fans, but they can't compare the wall fan directly point to you when running. I guess I will just use desk fan, I will put a double site glue on it so I will run when I am driving.

Will call the company tomorrow to see if it can locate the trusses. if so I will definitely buy it. Thank you!

In my "old" 2017 coach with so so looking cabinets, I installed 3 wall fans on the molding, wall, and cabinet walls, it was really effective in turns of air circulation and cool the coach even without running the a/c, but with this "new" 2007 Dynasty, I really hate to drill any holes on the beautiful cabinets and there is no space available on the wall, pretty much all wall space has been taken by the cabinets. There is a ceiling in the bedroom but it is very weak. One solution is put the desk fan on the kitchen counter , dinning table and the counter next to the TV, the problem is you have to remove those every time your drive and you need to find place to store it. Another option is of course run the A/C. but when it is not that hot, the fan will more than enough. Just curious has any one use fans on the coach and how you do it. Thank you

I applied oil base wood conditioner and oil stain. Unfortunately the door is pine. That is probably one of the reasons why the color doesn't match. I will leave door and a piece of molding(from the coach) there at the paint shop and I already sand one big area on the door. I will ask the paint shop and ask them to apply some matched stain on the door to check the color .

I have not applied seal yet! I thought once you stain it you can't stain again because the wood is already saturated with stain, just Googled, and found out that if you apply pre-stain conditioner on top of the stain, it does let you do that. Thank you!

I thought it was 1/2", just looked at again, I believe it is 3/8", that is how I did it on my previous coach. Maybe a little overkill... That is what I am planning to do if I can't find those trusses.

Too bad it is sealed on all sides!

Just opened the box, to my surprise, the are bunch of wires just on top of the carpet. Because it is hidden, I guess Monaco worker just took a shortcut and lay the wire on top of the carpet and cover the wires with the box. Because I have already install plywood on top of the plywood, I just install the vinyl plank on top of the plywood and that just high enough to cover the wires. Just got the door stained, too bad the color doesn't match, (I did take a piece of wood from the coach to the paint store and asked them to match it, looks like they did a terrible job matching it!). Wasted a lot of time sanding, pre-staining, staining the door, should have only done one small area on the door first. Guess I trusted the paint store too much. Have to do it again!

Just opened the vent, unfortunately I can't see much, the insulation above is not movable. Guess I will have to wait for cool moist morning, but the chance of see that kind of weather in So Cal right now is going to be very hard now.🙁 I believe the older one do have thick plywood on the roof... The 1/2" lag bolts are for the trusses, not for the 1/4" plywood. Yes you are right, if I am not hitting the trusses, I will definitely use much smaller fasteners. Unfortunately Right now or in next 6 month in So Cal, no sure I am going to get any moist at all.

No sure about "see trusses in the dew pattern"on a cool moist morning.😀 Open the A/C vent is definitely a great idea because there are so many of those, will try it tomorrow. Thank you!

The question is I need to find a mounting point for my 1/2" lag bolts to the roof. The 1/4" plywood and luaun board is not strong enough for my lag bolts

I am planning to install 2k to 24k solar panel on my 2007 Dynasty Diamond IV. I know a lot of folks are using 3M VHB tape without any issues, I am just not comfortable enough with just tapes. I don't want to start a debate that the 3M is good enough or not here. I just want to find out from the guys here in the group if you did use screws or lag bolts, how did you find out where is the steel beam on the roof? Unfortunately for me, my coach doesn't have thick plywood and the roof is many many layers of foam, luaun board etc. I tried with very expensive metal detector and ended with nothing. I could not find any schema which can tell me exactly where is the steel beams (Wish Monaco was still in business). For my previous coach Thor, they has those readily available. (See attached) Thank you

Yes, you are correct. There is no marks or holes on the ceiling, no door has been installed there before. Monaco must have built that box for the look. The cabinet next to it is for washer & dryer, lot of wire pipes and hoses, again, no washer & dryer was ever installed. When I bought it it was a cabinet with 3 shelf boards, When I opened the wall, I found out it was washer & dryer ready, all connections already there, I just installed new washer & dryer and cut the vent for the dryer. It is very hard to tell from the washer & dryer cabinet(also It will take a lot of effort to disconnect & remove washer & dryer), it will be easier just to open the box from the bedroom. I just remove the Valid 6 Packs & 4 Pack Valve manifolds to clean it up, waiting so airline elbows to arrive. I couldn't pump the air bags up until I put those back. without air bag pumped up I don't want to extend the slide out right now I should be able to put Valid Valve manifolds back next week. I can then open box and cut it for the door, I will relocate the wire or pipe if there are any there.

I believe it is a filler, of course I won't know until I open it. The box is over 4" in height, so I will have to cut it for the door to move all the way in. The only thing is I just installed vinyl floor on it, will have to remove it, cut it and put it back.

Now I know why, because my coach doesn't come with a door, so my coach has a corner much higher than that of yours. If I don't do anything, the 30" door will be 4" over the cabinetry. Looks like I will have to cut the corner so the door can move 4" extra inside toward the wall. Thank you!

@det944 Thank you for the quick response. I totally misunderstood, I thought you have two Flush sliding dead bolt locks one on each side at the bottom, that is why I didn't understand. Looks like you only have one Flush sliding dead bolt lock and one pocket door lock, that is exactly what I thought it should be. Quick question, since there is a corner(4" please see attached in red circle )at the end of the door (when closed) the door is 30", when you close the door, the door will hit the corner and still have 4" outside in the doorway. Could you please confirm that is the case? Thanks again.

Unfortunately those doesn't show the bottom where the two Flush sliding dead bolt lock are installed... @det944 Could you please show me two pictures where the Flush sliding dead bolt locks are installed? according to @birdshill123 there are two Flush sliding dead bolt locks installed, I understand I need one the left side(look from the inside the bedroom) when the door is open and I need to lock the door in opened position but not sure about the one on the right hand side(look from inside the bedroom) Thank you very much. John unfortunately the $400.00 door is the same style as my other door, it is different. Here is my new $200.00 door, looks identical to my other door, now I just need to sand, stain and seal it.

Could you please post a link to DR.4 film's post? I searched and could find anything. Thank you

hmm, interesting, I thought I only need one bolt on the left side when the door is opened. Questions, when you lock, don't you need at least one inch space to put your finger there to lock the bolt? does that means when you lock on the right side (when the door is closed from inside the bedroom) the door is not totally closed but with one or more inch space? Please advise. Thank you.

Yes, I did check many salvage yard, none of them had it, one yard had something one door has slightly different style was asking $400 including shipping, I bought an solid bare pine door from local store for $175 (almost identical to my other door), now the challenge is to stain the new door to make the color similar to the other door. I already got the custom stain,pre-stain,seal from the paint shop. Hopefully the color won't be that off that much after I stain it.

Thank you for the pictures. that helps a lot!

Got it. Thank you!

I need to jack up the coach and want to make sure I put my 20 ton jack stand in the right place. For the front, there is a cross metal right behind the front wheel, I am thinking put the jacks there. For the back, there is a metal straight down behind the tag axle, I am thinking put it over there, the only thing I am not sure is the metal is not completely solid. Could the experts here chip in what you think? I understand the put the jack stand right under the axle is another option, but I am thinking maybe those points are better.

I need to rebuild Valid 6 packs valve manifold. Just crawled under the coach today and found out the rear back 6 packs manifold is in a very tight place right above the rear air tank. it is impossible to do anything while the tank is there. so I guess have to remove the air tank. Just want to get the blessing from experts here that removing air tank is the only way to remove the 6 packs manifold. Any suggestion on how to do that will be greatly appreciated as this is my first time doing it. Thank you.