John C

That is why, I added the oil all the way to the top! Right now the leak I saw always coming from the cap because of the excessive oil I added. Looks like one of to solilnoid has been replaced before, my guess is probably that old solilnoid was leaking. I will keep monitoring the area, hopefully no more leaks once all the excessive oil out of the reservoir. Thanks.

Hi, Frank, I don't have level jack. It is still leaking oil from the cap, I guess I must have put too much oil as I could not decide what is the max oil line when I added oil, I added pretty much all the way to the top. Could you please tell me what is the Max Oil level line, is it the one in middle as I marked in red(see attached)? Thanks.

I guess I put too much oil inside, now it was leaking from the cap. After quite a few back and forth on the slide, no more leak, I guess all the excessive oil have been pushed out. Will keep an eye on it..

It is very fast now after I add about 1 1/2 gallon of oil. where is the return line? how do you check the return line? disconnect to see if there are oil come from the line?

Good point. I will definitely do that. Thank you

Looks like the hydraulic tank for the slides is almost empty, I fill 3/4 a gallon of oil(that is all I have now), it is still not full, and it is MUCH MUCH faster now. I will buy another gallon to fill it up to 100%. I used engine cleaner to clean the tank and cylinders and wipe it out with paper tower, much better now but still a lot of grease there, It will probably take metal scrubber to make it really clean. But it is good for now Thank your guys so much for all your help! I really appreciate it!

Yes, I got it. I thought it was outside step I did voltage of the chassis batteries and house batteries when DW extending and retracting the slide chassis battery : 12.78 House battery: 13.37 I will run the slide without plugged in tomorrow. 2007 Dynasty manual is different, I could not find anything talk about the hydraulic system under the step... I assume under the hoses is the motor? lots of dirt and grease there, I will clean it up tomorrow and try to test the voltage of the motor. Thanks. Does that seems to be normally when slide was running?

Maybe mine is locate in a different place? please see attached pictures, under my step doesn't have anything? Unfortunately under my steps is nothing, is it possible the previous owner relocated it? OPPS! My bad! I didn't realize it was the second step inside! Now I got it, so what else should I try beside filling the reservoir? Thank all of you so much!

Just checked, the chassis battery is 13.69V, the house battery is 13.9V. checked again, no plastic bin, just the step motor.

Just slipped under the coach and checked, unfortunately no reservoir.

My 2007 Monaco Dynasty hydraulic system is very very slow, that include 3 room slide out and generator slide out, one electric slide out is much fast than the hydraulic one. I am plugged in to shore power and just change the hydraulic filter and replace all hydraulic oil, the hydraulic oil is full. I don't have level jack. Any idea where to look? Thanks!

The Victron DC to DC has a cut of voltage, if you set it both charge at right voltage they will be only one charger active at one time. One will be activated when engine is on and another will be on when engine is off

My understanding is DC to DC charger doesn't need to get inverter involved, you can bypass all the middleman 1) To charge the house battery from chassis battery a) Connect chassis battery bank to DC to DC charger, b) connect DC to DC Charger to Lithium battery bank you can setup the DC to DC charger (from Bluetooth) at certain voltage point (say 14v or so) to allow the DC to DC charger to kick in, since the Chassis battery voltage will be higher when the engine is running, it will charge the Lithium battery). When the engine is not running, the chassis battery voltage will be low. DC to DC Charger won't charger the Lithium battery, that way it will never drain the chassis battery. 2) To charge the chassis battery from Lithium battery bank a) Connect Lithium battery bank to DC to DC charger, b) connect DC to DC Charger to chassis battery bank you can setup the DC to DC charger (from Bluetooth) at certain voltage point (say 14v or so) to STOP the DC to DC charger to kick in, since the Chassis battery voltage will be higher when the engine is running, it won't charge the chassis battery when the engine is running. When the engine is not running, the chassis battery voltage low than preset value (say 14v). DC to DC Charger will charge the chassis battery from Lithium battery bank. Because the chassis battery bank is in the same compartment as house battery bank, that should be very easy to setup.

Very interesting, I never thought about that. Question, did you directly connect the Victron Blue Smart Charger to the chassis batteries or somewhere else? Where did you mount the Victron Blue Smart Charger in the engine bay?

Tom and Frank @Frank McElroy, Reading Tom's post just give me a idea: What if I have two DC to DC chargers 1) one goes from Chassis battery to Lithium battery, this one will charge house batteries when I am driving 2) 2nd one from Lithium battery Chassis battery , this one will charge the chassis battery when I am not driving. Then I can just disable the Big Boy. Problem solved! What do you think? Frank, I will PM you when after I read the wire schematics. I am 100% sure I will have questions. Thank you. John

Hi, Tom, Actually I have not disconnected anything yet, very busy last couple of month, right now it is just dry run ::) I called Blue Sea System this morning and talked to the tech support, to my surprise, he told me that they current doesn't have any product work with lithium batteries! it will come out by the end of the year, right now their product only with acid batteries just like Big Boy does right now Because there are so many thing depend on the chassis batteries and I really like to be able to charge the chassis battery on constant basis, so I need to find a way to charge the chassis battery before I disconnect "Big Boy", I know someone charge the chassis batteries with solar panel, but I am planning to remove the factory 80w panel and put big ones to charge the house batteries. Once I figure out a way to charge the chassis batteries or when Blue Sea come out with a product working with lithium, I will then disconnect the "Big Boy" Thank you.

Hi,Frank, I removed the J4 connector (Please see attached, please let me know if that is not j4), it made no difference on the slide behavior, but I found out that I don't have to start the engine for the slide to work, I just need to turn on the key, the slide will work. I unplug the 5 connector wire from the board and put positive prob on the blue wire, I just connect the negative prob to to screw(please let me if I need to connect the negative prob somewhere else), (J4 is connected) 1) when the key is on : the voltage is between 48-54mv, if I remove the negative prob, the voltage is 0.6mv. 2) when the key is of : the voltage is between 1.2mv Please advise what that mean? Thank you What do you think?

Hi,Tom, I believe I found the battery disconnect you are talking about (please see attached), it is in the battery bay, I believe it is the "large studs" you are talking about, Could you please confirm that? I am still trying to find the tow "small terminals with wires on each switch" Hi,Frank, Just want to make sure I am testing the right wire, could you please confirm I am looking at the right pins? Thank you. John

Hi,Frank, Here is what I did, turn off the chassis battery by using the disconnect , then push the slideout "in" or "out", nothing happens, but if i turn on the chassis battery, I heard the sound of the motor when I push slideout "In", does that means the slide "in" power is coming from chassis battery? But if I push slideout "out" , nothing happens, the slideout "out" only works when I start the engine. So my slideout is not working the way it is reverse what it suppose to be, the slideout "in" only work when the engine is off and slideout "out" only work when engine is On. I do see 4 jumpers on top of the module F (please see attached) but they are not marked, so is 4th jumper from the top the "J4" you are talking about? if so, what is pin 2 ? from left or right? the are 3 pins on the 4th jumper, right now pin 2 is connected with pin 3 (assume the 1st from left is pin 1), do I connect the meter to the 1pin and 2 pin? or 2 pin and 3 pin? which pin do I connect the positive or negative probes? Thanks!

@Tom Cherry Hi, Tom, could you please tell me where is the 4 disconnect switches and terminal? I attached a picture of my fuse box in the engine bay here Thank you. @Frank McElroy Hi,Frank, Here is the picture of my RRB, I will love to find out how to fix this abnormal slideout behavior Thank you!

No sure if my slideout is operating on chassis battery or not. For whatever reason my 2007 is counter intuitive,maybe something is screwed up on this coach, right now I have to start the engine in order to extend the slideout. I can retract the slideout when the engine is off. I would love to wire the slideout on house batteries,do you have any instructions or steps on this procedure? Thx

The only problem with DC to DC is is it is one directional, you won't be able to charge the chassis batteries from house batteries @Tom Cherry My understanding is the Big Boy is a middleman between the chassis batteries and house batteries. If I just disconnect the wire go in and out of the big boy and leave everything the way it is, should that be enough to disable the whole bird system ? Why would I need to worry about the small wire in the disconnect switches (I don't even know where they are)

Actually my current 2007 Dynasty doesn't have level jack option. It only have 3 hydraulic slideout. Maybe the 24V to 12V converter will have enough AMPS for the slideout. Maybe I just try using 24v battery system with 24V to 12V connecting to coach system first. If that provides enough AMPs then I will keep the 24V system... I already have 6 100AH Battleborn batteries and 24V Victron inverter/charger from my previous coach, I am tryingto reuse what I already have right now. IMO 600AH is not a lot of battery storage and 48V is probably overkill in my case.

Sorry totally forgot to switch my Brower I will remember it next time. My previous coach I was using 24v battery system( the coach is still 12v system) that is why I have the 24v Victroninverter/charger 2007 Dynasty is still 12v system. I was talking about 24v battery system and then use 24v to 12v converter to connect to the coach 12v system. Now I am serious thinking bite the bullet and Buy another 12v Victron inverter/charger. But have the 24v for a/c only. Now I will have 2 inverters, I will replace the Magnum inverter with 12V Victron Inverter(with 4 x 100AH batteries), I will then use the 24v victron Inverter for A/C only (2x 100AH batteries), the 24v battery system will have absolutely nothing to do with the coach's 12v system and it will be much clean this way and I never need to worry about blowup the system in case the 24V to 12 v converter failing, plus I will never going to have the problem of not enough AMPS when using 12v DC. Because the coach is 50amps and it has two hot wires, I will connect the two wire outputs of my two Victron Inverters to the two hot wire inputs of the coach, that way I will always have a/c on both hot wires in the house. What do you think? Replace Acid batteries with Lithium.pdf

One problem is I need 24v to 12v converter, On my previous coach, I have 24V system, I have two 24v to 12v converter tie together and connected to the 12v system, about 50% of the time when I was leveling, I have to constantly reset the breaker because ever two 24v to 12v converter is no big enough to provide the current needed for the level jack... If I don't boondock that much, I won't even spent the effort and money on lithium and solar .😀