John C

Hi, I just replaced two of my Fanstic fans with Maxx Fans, I wasn't able to control the two with controllers, no sure if it is the problem of the controllers or the boards. After I removed it, I tested both motors works. I am in southern California , San Gabriel Valley. Whoever wants it please PM me. Will ship with prepaid shipping label.

Thank you all for the help. The only reason I insist on using lag bolt is because I did it before and it worked, also I want to make 100% sure that the solar panel won't fly down and kill or seriously injure someone, especially I am installing residential panels and those are really heavy. In the processing of replacing my Fantastic Fan with Maxx Fan, I saw the whole roof layer, on top is 1/4" fiberglass, followed by tapered bead foam insulation, then 1/4" marine plywood,R7.5 Cel Foam, then Luaun. The 1/4" fiberglass and 1/4" marine grade plywood look a little thick than I thought, here is what I am going to do: 1) Clean the roof with water, then acetone 1) Lay two aluminum struct channel in parallel (10' or 20' depends on location) and with glue the channels to the roof with 3M tape (that will be much stronger than just glue the bracket), I know I will use much much more 3M tape this way and I am willing to pay for the extra tape. 2) drill pilot hole O.C 16" with small drill bit on the channel through the roof, fill the holes with Dicor 501, 3) Apply 4" #8 screws every pilots holes to secure the channels to the roof. that means the screw is penetrating both the 1/4" fiberglass & 1/4" marine grade plywood 4) Apply Dicor 501 on the screw heads. 5) wait a few days before I venture out, pull the solar panels to make sure they are really secure. Right before I click send, I was just made aware that someone drilled his roof, hitting a very important 120v line feeding one of the breaker panels!! so 4" screw is definitely out of question, may be just 1" #8 screws??? can't image Monaco would lay the wire so close to the roof unless it is right next the A/C Please comment. Thank you!

Will do. Thank you!

There are a lots of insulation, forms on the roof, I was replacing the Fantastic Fan with Maxx Fan last week and measured 7.6" from roof to ceiling, most of those are insulation. I did open one of the a/c when troubleshooting the a/c problem and I don't believe there are big openings there. I tried with a very good metal detector can detect up to 6" deep rebar in cement, but I couldn't detect anything on this roof.

@Just Jim Just got this device yesterday at 10am, tried it, nothing,guess it was too late, so I tried it at 8am today, I did see some lines in the first half of the roof(from the first a/c to 2nd ac), I looked at the roof, to my surprise, I did see "dew pattern" @DavidL was talking about, the lines has no dew on it(other areas has dew). I don't know why nothing from the 2nd A/C to the 3rd A/C Also, the pattern doesn't make sense, there should be a lot of trusses cross the coach from driver side to passenger side, but I only see a couple next to the two a/c and those are not extended to the edge, also I can't find the trusses from the first a/c to 2nd a/c on Roadmaster chassis diagram in Dynasty's brochure, but the pattern shows two straight lines there from first a/c to 2nd.

Thank you all for the quick responses, I almost had a heart attack when I saw I had to take the whole slide out!!! This morning I looked at it carefully , it is actually not as bad as I thought, the function of that piece of aluminum it just to hold the seal, it is not structure.The weight of the slide out is on the roller. Because it is aluminum it is kind of soft which means I can bend it back to what it was use to be, there are about 5 feet was taken out by the bolt, only 2 feet was really bad. I Jacked up about 3"-4" with 6x6 on the end of the slide out, 5 feet away from that, I use another 6x6, I believe I probably jacked up about 2"-3", then I could move the plywood a little but still couldn't take it out,I was afraid jack up too much (It may damage the slide out), so instead of taking the plywood out, I just pushed the plywood inside. That plywood is not structure either. After that cut some triangles with wood and put those those under the slide out bottom, then use a hammer inch by inch , I corrected the aluminum , so I pretty much straightened out the aluminum , of course not 100%, there are about 10"-12" area is about 1/2" from the slide wall, because the aluminum was bent in the middle there and when I straightened up, the two broken end won't come together straight as the both side is screwed in to the wall and can not move Now I can move the slide in & out without any issue. When I closed the slide out, the 1/2" open gap between the 10-12" aluminum and the wall is not a issue because the slide out is hold it. when I extend the slide out, nothing is touching or move the aluminum , so I believe I will be fine, the worse case if the aluminum move out a little bit when I extended, i can always able to correct it. Note: when I say "I" , I mean I and my employee who is handier than me. It took us less than 2 hours to fix this. Now the new seat belt is in and the vinyl plank project is finished and I am happy!

I can't believe I did this!!!! Guess I am entitled to have a senior moment as I just turned 55! Anyway, I finished replacing carpet with vinyl plank floor and need to add more seat belt to the passenger side sofa, while wait for the seat belt, I forgot to tighten one bolt (from slide bottom to the floor to secure the sofa) , when I finally ready to do the seat belt, I extended the slide, but that bolt dropped half way and broke and twisted a piece a aluminum and seal, it also pulled a piece of plywood out (please see attached) I guess the first thing I have to do is jack up the slide(no sure how much to jack it up) and take the aluminum piece out and put the plywood back. that carpet is the area I can't reach, I will just yank it out. I will probably remove the floor in order to put the plywood back. No sure if aluminum piece is salvageable ,as it broke on the right side I will have to replace that aluminum, it will probably has to be custom made?? Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

Thank you for all the responses, yes, I do have 3 Exhausting fans, but they can't compare the wall fan directly point to you when running. I guess I will just use desk fan, I will put a double site glue on it so I will run when I am driving.

Will call the company tomorrow to see if it can locate the trusses. if so I will definitely buy it. Thank you!

In my "old" 2017 coach with so so looking cabinets, I installed 3 wall fans on the molding, wall, and cabinet walls, it was really effective in turns of air circulation and cool the coach even without running the a/c, but with this "new" 2007 Dynasty, I really hate to drill any holes on the beautiful cabinets and there is no space available on the wall, pretty much all wall space has been taken by the cabinets. There is a ceiling in the bedroom but it is very weak. One solution is put the desk fan on the kitchen counter , dinning table and the counter next to the TV, the problem is you have to remove those every time your drive and you need to find place to store it. Another option is of course run the A/C. but when it is not that hot, the fan will more than enough. Just curious has any one use fans on the coach and how you do it. Thank you

I applied oil base wood conditioner and oil stain. Unfortunately the door is pine. That is probably one of the reasons why the color doesn't match. I will leave door and a piece of molding(from the coach) there at the paint shop and I already sand one big area on the door. I will ask the paint shop and ask them to apply some matched stain on the door to check the color .

I have not applied seal yet! I thought once you stain it you can't stain again because the wood is already saturated with stain, just Googled, and found out that if you apply pre-stain conditioner on top of the stain, it does let you do that. Thank you!

I thought it was 1/2", just looked at again, I believe it is 3/8", that is how I did it on my previous coach. Maybe a little overkill... That is what I am planning to do if I can't find those trusses.

Too bad it is sealed on all sides!

Just opened the box, to my surprise, the are bunch of wires just on top of the carpet. Because it is hidden, I guess Monaco worker just took a shortcut and lay the wire on top of the carpet and cover the wires with the box. Because I have already install plywood on top of the plywood, I just install the vinyl plank on top of the plywood and that just high enough to cover the wires. Just got the door stained, too bad the color doesn't match, (I did take a piece of wood from the coach to the paint store and asked them to match it, looks like they did a terrible job matching it!). Wasted a lot of time sanding, pre-staining, staining the door, should have only done one small area on the door first. Guess I trusted the paint store too much. Have to do it again!

Just opened the vent, unfortunately I can't see much, the insulation above is not movable. Guess I will have to wait for cool moist morning, but the chance of see that kind of weather in So Cal right now is going to be very hard now.🙁 I believe the older one do have thick plywood on the roof... The 1/2" lag bolts are for the trusses, not for the 1/4" plywood. Yes you are right, if I am not hitting the trusses, I will definitely use much smaller fasteners. Unfortunately Right now or in next 6 month in So Cal, no sure I am going to get any moist at all.

No sure about "see trusses in the dew pattern"on a cool moist morning.😀 Open the A/C vent is definitely a great idea because there are so many of those, will try it tomorrow. Thank you!

The question is I need to find a mounting point for my 1/2" lag bolts to the roof. The 1/4" plywood and luaun board is not strong enough for my lag bolts

I am planning to install 2k to 24k solar panel on my 2007 Dynasty Diamond IV. I know a lot of folks are using 3M VHB tape without any issues, I am just not comfortable enough with just tapes. I don't want to start a debate that the 3M is good enough or not here. I just want to find out from the guys here in the group if you did use screws or lag bolts, how did you find out where is the steel beam on the roof? Unfortunately for me, my coach doesn't have thick plywood and the roof is many many layers of foam, luaun board etc. I tried with very expensive metal detector and ended with nothing. I could not find any schema which can tell me exactly where is the steel beams (Wish Monaco was still in business). For my previous coach Thor, they has those readily available. (See attached) Thank you

Yes, you are correct. There is no marks or holes on the ceiling, no door has been installed there before. Monaco must have built that box for the look. The cabinet next to it is for washer & dryer, lot of wire pipes and hoses, again, no washer & dryer was ever installed. When I bought it it was a cabinet with 3 shelf boards, When I opened the wall, I found out it was washer & dryer ready, all connections already there, I just installed new washer & dryer and cut the vent for the dryer. It is very hard to tell from the washer & dryer cabinet(also It will take a lot of effort to disconnect & remove washer & dryer), it will be easier just to open the box from the bedroom. I just remove the Valid 6 Packs & 4 Pack Valve manifolds to clean it up, waiting so airline elbows to arrive. I couldn't pump the air bags up until I put those back. without air bag pumped up I don't want to extend the slide out right now I should be able to put Valid Valve manifolds back next week. I can then open box and cut it for the door, I will relocate the wire or pipe if there are any there.

I believe it is a filler, of course I won't know until I open it. The box is over 4" in height, so I will have to cut it for the door to move all the way in. The only thing is I just installed vinyl floor on it, will have to remove it, cut it and put it back.

Now I know why, because my coach doesn't come with a door, so my coach has a corner much higher than that of yours. If I don't do anything, the 30" door will be 4" over the cabinetry. Looks like I will have to cut the corner so the door can move 4" extra inside toward the wall. Thank you!

@det944 Thank you for the quick response. I totally misunderstood, I thought you have two Flush sliding dead bolt locks one on each side at the bottom, that is why I didn't understand. Looks like you only have one Flush sliding dead bolt lock and one pocket door lock, that is exactly what I thought it should be. Quick question, since there is a corner(4" please see attached in red circle )at the end of the door (when closed) the door is 30", when you close the door, the door will hit the corner and still have 4" outside in the doorway. Could you please confirm that is the case? Thanks again.

Unfortunately those doesn't show the bottom where the two Flush sliding dead bolt lock are installed... @det944 Could you please show me two pictures where the Flush sliding dead bolt locks are installed? according to @birdshill123 there are two Flush sliding dead bolt locks installed, I understand I need one the left side(look from the inside the bedroom) when the door is open and I need to lock the door in opened position but not sure about the one on the right hand side(look from inside the bedroom) Thank you very much. John unfortunately the $400.00 door is the same style as my other door, it is different. Here is my new $200.00 door, looks identical to my other door, now I just need to sand, stain and seal it.

Could you please post a link to DR.4 film's post? I searched and could find anything. Thank you