John C

hmm, interesting, I thought I only need one bolt on the left side when the door is opened. Questions, when you lock, don't you need at least one inch space to put your finger there to lock the bolt? does that means when you lock on the right side (when the door is closed from inside the bedroom) the door is not totally closed but with one or more inch space? Please advise. Thank you.

Yes, I did check many salvage yard, none of them had it, one yard had something one door has slightly different style was asking $400 including shipping, I bought an solid bare pine door from local store for $175 (almost identical to my other door), now the challenge is to stain the new door to make the color similar to the other door. I already got the custom stain,pre-stain,seal from the paint shop. Hopefully the color won't be that off that much after I stain it.

Thank you for the pictures. that helps a lot!

Got it. Thank you!

I need to jack up the coach and want to make sure I put my 20 ton jack stand in the right place. For the front, there is a cross metal right behind the front wheel, I am thinking put the jacks there. For the back, there is a metal straight down behind the tag axle, I am thinking put it over there, the only thing I am not sure is the metal is not completely solid. Could the experts here chip in what you think? I understand the put the jack stand right under the axle is another option, but I am thinking maybe those points are better.

I need to rebuild Valid 6 packs valve manifold. Just crawled under the coach today and found out the rear back 6 packs manifold is in a very tight place right above the rear air tank. it is impossible to do anything while the tank is there. so I guess have to remove the air tank. Just want to get the blessing from experts here that removing air tank is the only way to remove the 6 packs manifold. Any suggestion on how to do that will be greatly appreciated as this is my first time doing it. Thank you.

Could you please take a picture on the "a piece of wood that the track attaches to"? That will really help. Thank you! Do you have a picture of the a "sliding pin"? Thank you.

Diamond IV

For whatever reason, my "new" 2007 Dynasty does not have door for the bedroom. it doesn't look like the previous owner has removed anything either. I just bought a new door and the hardware to hang the door, I also bought the sliding door hardware : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026T53U0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 I have a few questions : 1) What is the thickness of the plywood behind the vinyl(leather) calling? , is the plywood strong enough to hold a solid pine door? 2) If the plywood is not strong enough, is there are metal on top of the ceiling I can mount the hardware too? 3) Because the bedroom door is not a pocket door (unlike another door) How do I prevent the door from sliding back and forth when driving? could someone show me how they bedroom door works Thank you so much!

Yesterday the ground is still wet because of the rain on Saturday so I didn't get a chance to crawling under the coach. Just test it today. The battery started at 1.35v (right after I unplugged it from shore power) Pushed the generator,it dropped to 12.68v and stayed there for 4-5 seconds. I heard the crank, the voltage drop to 9.68v for one second Generator start!!! The voltage came back 12-13v(didn't pay too much attention this point so I don't have the exact number). So after two days charging, it started under 6 seconds The inside keypad switch works now, I believe that was not "working" because I made the same mistake by releasing the keypad too soon(Just like I released the switch outside the generator too soon). The only problem right now is the keypad light is reversed, the generator light on keypad is one when generator is not started, and it is off when Gen Started. It looks like a wiring issue and I am not going to worry about that for now because I have so many major things to work on the coach now. Thanks again for all your help. John

After a couple of hours charging, I unplugged the shore power, started the generator under 7 seconds! Tried 4 times, everything were like that. I am going to charge it all night tonight. and I will try it tomorrow, maybe it will take even less time to start tomorrow. Will report it back. Thank you guys so much for the help. I really appreciate it.

Tom, Under the guidance of Frank today, he helped me found out that my Big Boy is not charging the chassis battery, I spent the whole morning remove the Big Boy and clean inside really good. now the I just installed the Big Boy back and it is charging the chassis battery now. I will let it charge for the rest ot today and will try it first thing tomorrow morning and report back. Thank you.

Tom @Tom Cherry Could you please tell me when you disconnect the jumper cable? after you turn on the house disconnect? or the Jumper cable is always connected during the whole process? I just test the boost, looks like it is much fast now probably half of the time than it was before. Does that looks like a battery problem? I have not trace the cable yet.

Tom @Tom Cherry Could you please tell me when you disconnect the jumper cable? after you turn on the house disconnect? or the Jumper cable is always connected during the whole process? Please advise. Thank you.

Yes, I looked at the manual, but the problem is I am having a hard time locate the P8 harness connector OK, Frank @Frank McElroy, I just crawled under the coach and tested the voltage again, this time when DW was pushing the start, here is the voltage 12.4V -before DW push the start button outside the generator 11.4V to 11.7V- kept hearing the click Click 8V to 9V-> heard the crank sound , this last very short period of time, probably 1 second or less 11.4V to 11.7V- kept hear the click Click 8V to 9V-> heard the crank sound , this last very short period of time, probably 1 second or less 12.4v -> Generator started I didn't time this, seems to be very long, definitely more than 10 seconds Please let me know what you think. Thank you Sorry I have not retired yet, still need to work to make ends meet. I need to find time after work to crawl under the coach, I also needs to wait when DW is home to help me push the switches.

Yes, I did test that connection and that one is very consistent 12.7V when unplugged

There are to connector I test for voltage, the first one is from the coach to the outside box of the generator, that is 12.7V when no connected to the shore power. This voltage is very consistent. After I open the generator box cover, there are 3 connectors outside of the generator ENGINE, I honestly don't know which one is which, so I chose the two connectors just to see if I could measure the voltage going into the generator. It is normal that will be no voltage going into the engine when the switch outside the generator is NOT pressed. I did get voltage when I pressed the voltage. that went from 0->9v->10->11v->, because multi-meter pins on the connector are not very stable and the voltage measurement on the engine kept changing(depends on pressure and movement of the multi-meter pins), so I didn't get very stable voltage. Sorry I didn't make myself clear. There are two connectors I test for voltage, the first one is from the coach to the outside box of the generator, that is 12.7V when no connected to the shore power. This voltage is very consistent. After I open the generator box cover, there are 3 connectors outside of the generator ENGINE, I honestly don't know which one is which, so I chose the two connectors just to see if I could measure the voltage going into the generator. It is normal that will be no voltage going into the engine when the switch outside the generator is NOT pressed. I did get voltage when I pressed the voltage. that went from 0->9v->10->11v->, because multi-meter pins on the connector are not very stable and the voltage measurement on the engine kept changing(depends on pressure and movement of the multi-meter pins), so I didn't get very stable voltage.

Yes, I did turn off the cutoff switches off and on for both chassis & house batteries many times, that made no difference... I looks like the connector between the generator and coach Intellitec system is the problem, I did clean it really good, I did see the diagram, but no sure how to test the 8 pins, where do I put the pos & nag of my multi-meter. Thanks!

@Tom Cherry I already run a voltage test from the cable nuts connector outside the generator, it was 13.6V when I connected to the shore power, when I am not connected shore power, it was 12.7V. when I pressed the switch outside the generator, the voltage connector to the engine was 0-10v->11.5v -> higher (when the switch is press, when switch not pressed, it was 0) Note, when I say switch, I mean the switch out the generator box, not inside the coach. The more I think about, this "bizarre behavior" is actually no bizarre AT ALL, I believe when I was using multi-meter, DW was pressing the switch much longer (because I want to get the accurate voltage and that takes time) than I was press it when I was not using multi-meter. This has nothing to do with the multi-meter all all!!!! Of course I still don't know why I need to press the switch button twice long than it was before. and why I can't start the generator from my keypad (inside my bedroom) and my keypad's behavior is reverse what it should be.

Hi,Frank @Frank McElroy, My keypad(bedroom) indicator was on all the time when the generator was no on,( it was off before). no matter I press the keypad (I did hear the click sound) how many times, it is always on. I can't start the generator from the keypad right now. Now after I started generator using the switch next to the generator, My keypad indicator light went off, but when I turned off the generator , the keypad indicator went back on again. It is totally reverse the behavior it is suppose to be, it should be off when generator no on and should be on when generator is on. The switch indicator (outside next to generator) light is on most of time(not normal) . After most than 11 second pressing on the switch , (I remember I was only need to press 5 second before ), the generator did start, and the switch indicator getting brighter than it was before I started the generator. On the 2nd thought, I think to hold the switch on the generator helps a lot, it maybe the only factor. From unable to start the generator to able to startit, the key difference is I held the switch much much long . The problem is I don't remember I have to hold the start switch that long before, it must be half of the time I am holding right now, and the temperature is actually much warmer than it was one month ago (when I can star the generator by holding the switch half long), no sure why now I need hold the switch twice long?

Tom @Tom Cherry, I removed the nuts of two ground, cleaned the cables with "WD-40 SPECIALIST 11 oz. Contact Cleaner, Quick-Drying Electric Equipment Cleaner " , put everything back, try it again, still didn't work. But this time at least the light on the switch button went away. that is a improvement. I start the coach engine, push the "boost" switch, still the same. I kept trying and until I heard a crank sound, then it went away quickly, the next time I kept holding the switch, then all of sudden, the generator started! Thank you so much. I guess it is because of the grounds and the time I need to hold the generator. One more question, my generator switch in the bedroom light is always on and I couldn't start the generator with this switch, nor can I start from the driver dash board., Does that means there is a communication problem between the remote switch and the generator? how do I fix that, I already cleaned the connect between the coach wire and the generator with "Drying Electric Equipment Cleaner " Thanks again. One more question, I still can not I already took the nuts out and clean the cable heads with "WD40 Drying Electric Equipment Cleaner", I did that with all the connection I can see...

No sure if it was because of the temperature, Here in So California, it is about 67 degrees when I was doing it...

I just replaced the carpet with vinyl planks under the J-Sofa, I would like to add a seat belt, to do that I need drill two holes from the slide on passenger side down to outside and put two bolts from under the slide all the way inside and secure with nuts. The only problem is I don't know what is under the plywood, definitely don't want to break any wires or pipe. Have anyone done that? how do I find out what is under the plywood? Please advise. Thank you.

For whatever reason , I couldn't start the generator(I was able to start a few weeks ago), no even with the switch on the generator, the switch light is on (I don't remember it was on before), when I pushed it, I heard the "click" sound, I checked the battery connection to the generator when I am unplugged , it was12.7V When I open the engine cover, there was A LOT of DUST inside the engine bay ,I used a strong blower to blow all the dust, after that I used a wet towel wipe everywhere I can reach. After that I tried again, still didn't work, The are two wires connector outside of the engine (see attached), so I used multi-meter to test the voltage to find out what is the voltage going to the engine. At the same time asked DW to push the start, the voltage measurement went from 10mv to 9v-11v->higher (Voltage varies maybe because the multi-meter didn't touch the connectors very well, for a few seconds I heard the crank sound, then the Engine STARTED!!! https://photos.app.goo.gl/LRLGc6B1KYKdnbLMA I just couldn't believe it, I let it run for 15 minutes, stopped and then pushed start again, it still worked! Unfortunately the next day, it won't start again, but when I used the multi-meter, it worked again! Because there are so many nuts I have to remove in order to open the engine compartment, I just couldn't do this all the time. What else should I try? Please advise. Thank you.

This is a bank repo and the dealer didn't go over anything with me. I did have two inspections - one on chassis - semitruck expert and another one on house side. I also did all fluids test. There quite many issues with this coach. Engine, transmission, radiator and Chassis side is pretty good. inside and outside are very decent. Most on house side which i believe i can handle with the help from Monaco community such as your guys here. I did get a decent discount because of that. If your believe JD Power, my purchase is 45k below the average retail price. No sure what is the history of this coach, I added oil twice, the first time I added 3/4 gallon and I don't see any leak. Yesterday I added another 3/4 gallon, fill the oil all the way to top. After that I started to see oil leaks(from the excessive oil I added) all of those were coming from the cap, so far I haven't noticed leak from anywhere else. Maybe the previous or previous previous owner already fix the leaks. I will definitely going to keep monitoring this reservoir from now on. Thanks