johncvandoren@gmail.com Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 For those who have installed the laundry at the rear bathroom wall (vs side wall), how did you vent the dryer? I have drilled the 4' hole in the back wall, into what appears to be an enclosed space. Now I need to get the hot, moist air & lint out into open space or to the ground, without drilling a hole through the rear cap (and the "Knight" lettering). Any suggestions (and pictures?) would be greatly appreciated. John 06 Knight 40DFD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis H Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 Since you already drilled the 4" hole, you're somewhat limited as to where you go from here. Can you install an 90 degree elbow and vent it downward beneath the engine? Seems like the simplest solution. There should be enough room but it'll be a bear to clean when necessary. Use solid piping and not the corrugated collapsible stuff.....Dennis 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johncvandoren@gmail.com Posted December 20, 2020 Author Share Posted December 20, 2020 Yea, I know I had to drill straight out from the dryer vent, as I didn’t want to go out through the side wall of the RV. I am assembling the various elbows, baffle, and connections to carry it down froM within the cavity. The challenge is how to get the elbow up into that cavity. Once the elbow is at the back side of the 4” hole, I have a course threaded coupling to connect it through the hole. I won’t be able to get one arm, let alone two, Into that cavity, without cutting a wider access hole in the laundry back wall. Just wondering if anyone else has done this, so I can learn from them. Thank you. john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Davis Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 Is there another wall where you could put an access door? You may want to access that area again without removing the washer / dryer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johncvandoren@gmail.com Posted December 20, 2020 Author Share Posted December 20, 2020 I bought a 4-6” soffit vent cap with spring-loaded baffles, and will get a 6” hole saw tomorrow. If I can get to the bottom of the cavity, a 6” hole may provide sufficient access to fit & affix the elbow with 4” aluminum pipe attached. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis H Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 John, I would advise against using the accordian style exhaust. It collects too much lint and that increases the chance of a fire and/or lessened drying capability. A straight pipe is preferred if you can manage that.....Dennis 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johncvandoren@gmail.com Posted December 20, 2020 Author Share Posted December 20, 2020 19 minutes ago, Dennis H said: John, I would advise against using the accordian style exhaust. It collects too much lint and that increases the chance of a fire and/or lessened drying capability. A straight pipe is preferred if you can manage that.....Dennis Logistically, I need to be able to pull the tube down, attach to soffit vent cap, then push assembly bacK up & Affix to underside. So I’m thinking semi-rigid aluminum tubing. If i can figure out how to use straight solid pipe, I will. Thanks for your advice. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johncvandoren@gmail.com Posted January 17, 2021 Author Share Posted January 17, 2021 The cavity behind the laundry is enclosed on all sides, top, & bottom. Has anyone been successful in opening a 4-6” hole I’m the bottom to let the air & lint out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis H Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 John, we originally "assumed" this was a new install. Is this assumption correct? If not, then the obvious question is whether your dryer is vented or ventless. There are both kinds but very different animals. You mention the cavity is totally enclosed. This would either indicate your dryer is ventless, again assuming it's a factory install. Please clarify. Did you abandon the hole you drilled in the cavity earlier?....Thanks ....Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johncvandoren@gmail.com Posted January 18, 2021 Author Share Posted January 18, 2021 Dennis, it’s a new install of a vented Splendide. My 06 Knight was pre-wired & plumbed for a ventless unit, so I’m trying to find the correct path for the vent through the back closet wall. It is the cavity behind the wall that is enclosed. There’s about 16” between that wall and the rear cap, but I don’t want to drill through the cap, let alone the emblems there-on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck B 2004 Windsor Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 It is a lot easier to go through the side wall to the outside. That is the way I did it. Chuck B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis H Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 7 hours ago, johncvandoren@gmail.com said: Dennis, it’s a new install of a vented Splendide. My 06 Knight was pre-wired & plumbed for a ventless unit, so I’m trying to find the correct path for the vent through the back closet wall. It is the cavity behind the wall that is enclosed. There’s about 16” between that wall and the rear cap, but I don’t want to drill through the cap, let alone the emblems there-on. Gotcha! Mine is in a cabinet on the passenger side in the bedroom next to the clothes closet. It vents through the side of the coach and is painted to match the graphics so it's hardly noticeable. Only thing I'd suggest is measure twice, cut once. It should be as straight a shot out as possible. Lint likes to catch on things and can present a fire hazard if not kept clean. Easy thing to forget about.....Dennis 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pduggs Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 Somewhat unrelated to the topic, but important to Monaco owners. My coach was 10 years old when I bought it from original owner. I found the dryer vent as it exited the coach, wasn’t sealed or properly secured. While washing the coach, I found this. A good reason to wash your coach now and then. The plastic vent sits on untreated wood. Mine was rotted. I replaced what I could and sealed it well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck B 2004 Windsor Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 If you can wait until condensation collects on the side of the coach, you can mark the area where the hole can be cut missing any cross members in the sidewall. Chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johncvandoren@gmail.com Posted January 25, 2021 Author Share Posted January 25, 2021 I’m noT going to vent out the side. I’m venting straight out the back of the closet/laundry into a cavity between the closet and the rear cap about 16” to the rear. What I’m trying to learn is how to open that cavity at the bottom so the exhaust will escape into the open air. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Davis Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 3 hours ago, johncvandoren@gmail.com said: I’m noT going to vent out the side. I’m venting straight out the back of the closet/laundry into a cavity between the closet and the rear cap about 16” to the rear. What I’m trying to learn is how to open that cavity at the bottom so the exhaust will escape into the open air. John For what it's worth, on my coach that's above where the exhaust and muffler is, Just saying Can you cut a large hole on the inside to work through then cover it with a panel. On my coach that would probably be a side wall in the closet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck B 2004 Windsor Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 IMO, going through the rear wall, down and out is a good way to get exhaust fumes into the coach. Chuck B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johncvandoren@gmail.com Posted January 26, 2021 Author Share Posted January 26, 2021 Chuck, I appreciate your input. I hadn’t thought of that. The bottom of the hidden cavity is above, behind and isolated from the top of radiator, accessible from the area next to the coolant overflow tank; and 6-8’ above and away from the exhaust which exits down & out the lower left side. Do you think I’ll still have a problem? BTW: If I vented out the side, the vent cap Would be directly above the exhaust, albeit 8-10’ up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck B 2004 Windsor Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 When the coach is in a forward motion, the air flow passing down the side of the coach is parallel to the road. When the coach is parked, the engine is off. When the engine is running in a parked situation, the danger is the exhaust coming into the bedroom. Chuck B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Davis Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 25 minutes ago, Chuck B said: When the coach is in a forward motion, the air flow passing down the side of the coach is parallel to the road. When the coach is parked, the engine is off. When the engine is running in a parked situation, the danger is the exhaust coming into the bedroom. Chuck B 👍 Sounds pretty reasonable to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johncvandoren@gmail.com Posted January 26, 2021 Author Share Posted January 26, 2021 (edited) 4 hours ago, Chuck B said: When the coach is in a forward motion, the air flow passing down the side of the coach is parallel to the road. When the coach is parked, the engine is off. When the engine is running in a parked situation, the danger is the exhaust coming into the bedroom. Chuck B Another good point. Guess that’s why the air intake is 12’ higher than the exhaust pipe! Wonder how effective are those spring-loaded baffles designed to allow only one-way air flow? Will re-measure & consider all options. Edited January 26, 2021 by johncvandoren@gmail.com Augmentation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis H Posted January 27, 2021 Share Posted January 27, 2021 7 hours ago, Chuck B said: When the coach is in a forward motion, the air flow passing down the side of the coach is parallel to the road. When the coach is parked, the engine is off. When the engine is running in a parked situation, the danger is the exhaust coming into the bedroom. Chuck B Not necessarily true. A hole in your muffler can allow gases to enter your vehicle, same as having your tailgate open on an SUV. Air flow doesn't necessarily flow parallel to the vehicle. Back drafting can pull the exhaust fumes into the cabin even while traveling down the road. You won't be using the dryer while in motion so air flow will most likely be flowing INTO the cabin instead of OUT.....Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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