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2004 Monaco Knight-Transmission Cooler Line Replacement


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Hello Group,

I have a 2004 Monaco Knight with a 300 HP Cummings & Allison transmission.  On my last trip I noticed transmission fluid on the ground when I parked at our site, figured something was loose since I just had the transmission serviced.  Checked pan & filter bolt tightness...found a few a little loose, tightened & cleaned and thought I was ok...until I got home and the pan was wet again.  Cleaned it off and did some checking, found one of the cooler lines was bubbling from the compression fitting on the hose and check lines/cracks in the hose so figured I'd just remove both hoses and replace them with new.  Problem is I cant get them to break loose, and almost no room to work back by the engine/radiator...anybody ever had this problem and know what to do?  I'm ready to give up and take it somewhere but don't know where to go, looking for suggestions for a Class A RV service center in or near West Palm Beach, FL.

Thanks in Advance!

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You might try some heat on the fittings. When I replaced my Radiator I had to disconnect the Cooler hoses. It was  difficult.  used PB blaster penetration  oil but not much help. Just brut strength not much area to work or a good angle to get the wrench on the lines B nut. Had to walk away several times and retackle it and it finally broke loose. Good luck!!

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16 hours ago, Bob Wightman said:

Hello Group,

I have a 2004 Monaco Knight with a 300 HP Cummings & Allison transmission.  On my last trip I noticed transmission fluid on the ground when I parked at our site, figured something was loose since I just had the transmission serviced.  Checked pan & filter bolt tightness...found a few a little loose, tightened & cleaned and thought I was ok...until I got home and the pan was wet again.  Cleaned it off and did some checking, found one of the cooler lines was bubbling from the compression fitting on the hose and check lines/cracks in the hose so figured I'd just remove both hoses and replace them with new.  Problem is I cant get them to break loose, and almost no room to work back by the engine/radiator...anybody ever had this problem and know what to do?  I'm ready to give up and take it somewhere but don't know where to go, looking for suggestions for a Class A RV service center in or near West Palm Beach, FL.

Thanks in Advance!

There is a product by CRC called Freeze Off. You blast the connection for 20 seconds, wait 2-3 minutes and try to break connection again. This product was suggested by another site and I’ve used it extensively replacing all my rubber lines on the rig. NAPA order the product in for me. Really does work well. The idea is it cools the connection and as it warms back up it lets the penetrant to seep into the connection.

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And if those don't work I recommend Aerokroil. It's the best I've used. It's a bit pricey,  $15 6 yrs ago.

Aerokroil.jpg

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