IOTA ITS-50R

[Tom Cherry]

On 7/18/2021 at 11:51 AM, David Pratt said:

Another ATS to take into consideration is the SURGEGUARD Series of ATS/Surge Protection switches. The SurgeGuard 40250, 40350 and the 40450. These ATS switches combine the Transfer Switch and Surge Protection in one unit. They are a little pricey but offer great protection. These SURGEGUARD ATS Units are installed in most of the higher end Coaches such as PREVOST, NEWELL and FORETRAVEL. These SURGEGUARD Automatic Transfer Switch models are available with maximum spike current from 26,400A – 130,000A, and surge suppression from 2600 Joules – 3350 Joules.

The SURGEGUARD ATS Units are also Field Serviceable.

Here is some info and specs;

• Transfers to generator power automatically when energized after 30 second delay (generator mode). When both shore and generator power are available , generator dominates after a 30 second delay. Once generator shuts down, shore power activates after 3 second delay.
• Total electrical protection from faulty park power
• Provides protection against:
  • Power surges
  • Open ground
  • Open neutral
  • Low (<102V) and high (>132V) voltage
  • Reverse polarity
  • Miswired pedestal
  • High and low frequency

• Multi-mode surge suppression
• RVC communications allows instant display of voltage, current, and fault conditions on an RVC compatible device
• Indicator lights on front of ATS indicate presence of input power for L1 and L2
• Optional remote power monitor LCD Display (Part number 40299 sold separately)
  • Displays voltage and amp draw (RMS)
  • Easy to navigate faults in plain English
• 65A, FLA mechanical interlocking contactors
• UL approved – UL1008 full transfer switch rating
• UL/CUL listed

 

I stand corrected.  I did not know that the current production models of the SurgeGuard switches are field serviceable.  As David says....one has to make the call on value and such. Obviously installing ONE unit would be easier (or less costly if you are paying for it rather than DIY)...

The last prices that I saw for the LPT50BRD are now in the $225 range....  They were about $75 cheaper a few years ago.

The HW50C has come down.  They are in the $330 range. You need less than $20 of wiring and supplies to complete the installation...  Been there....done that.

I would suggest that one do a price comparison of the two SurgeGuards vs the combo of the ESCO and Progressive.  If you don't have the Alladin or the interface system, then add in the cost of the remote monitor so that you are comparing apples to apples.

Here are the specs on the HW50C for comparison

Product Features:

• Over/Under Voltage Protection

• Open Ground, Open Neutral & Reverse Polarity Detection

• Accidental 240V Protection

• Miswired Pedestal Indication

• Surge Failure Indicator

• Amperage Meter Display

• Previous Error Code

• A/C Frequency Protection

• Time Delay (136 seconds)

• Adjustable Time Delay

• Thermally Protected

• Remote Display w/Scrolling Digital Display

• Field Serviceable 

• UL Certified and Canadian Approved

• Lifetime Warranty

Product Specs:

Surge Protection:

5-Mode / 3,580J / 88,000A max current spike

Response time: < 1 nanosecond (10⁻⁹ second)
Ratings: 50A / 120V/240V / 12,000W
Operating Temperatures: -40C to +105C
Data Cable: 14'
Product Dimensions: 9" W x 5" H x 4" D

Link to the Operating Manual....

https://98fc35b2-8b52-49c0-9df1-33107348b2e7.filesusr.com/ugd/439d5a_7e98aaa6242a4c798b32f2164c8e591e.pdf

NOW, there are choices.....and one has enough info to start down that path....BUT GET RID OF THE IOTA, otherwise, the conversation and decision making might have been a MOOT POINT.....

OR, best sceneario.....you ain't got AC or Genny power when you are in Tuscon and it is 115 dF.....but your MH is NOT a toasted marshmallow....

[Gary M]

On 7/14/2021 at 8:35 PM, Scotty Hutto said:

Todd,

I still have access to the old Monacoers email database and have counted 9 instances of Monacoers member's coaches having "meltdowns" of their Iota ITS-50R.  Keystone and Navistar (who owned Monaco at the time) issued a voluntary recall of coaches made while Navistar owned Monaco.  Unfortunately, coaches build prior to Monaco Coach Corporation's bankruptcy and acquisition by Navistar in 2008-9 were not included in the recall.  

Rather than share my opinion, I'll simply post the text for the NHTSA Campaign Number 12V060000.

I replaced mine.  There is another thread all about replacement options, so I won't belabor that here.

Scotty

 

February 16, 2012 NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 12V060000

AUTOMATIC TRANSFER SWITCH

ELECTRICAL OVERLOAD OF THE TRANSFER SWITCH COULD LEAD TO OVERHEATING, AND A FIRE, INCREASING THE RISK OF PROPERTY DAMAGE, PERSONAL INJURY, OR DEATH.

NHTSA Campaign Number: 12V060000

Manufacturer NAVISTAR, INC

Components ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Potential Number of Units Affected 249

Summary

NAVISTAR IS RECALLING CERTAIN MODEL YEAR 2008-2010 BEAVER AND CERTAIN MODEL YEAR 2009-2011 MONACO, AND CERTAIN MODEL YEAR 2009-2011 HOLIDAY RAMBLER RECREATIONAL VEHICLES, MANUFACTURED FROM OCTOBER 25, 2007, THROUGH AUGUST 26, 2010, EQUIPPED WITH IOTA ITS-50R 50 AMP AUTOMATIC TRANSFER SWITCHES. THE IOTA ITS-50R 50 AMP AUTOMATIC TRANSFER SWITCH BUS BAR AND/OR ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS MAY BE INADEQUATE TO HANDLE THE ELECTRICAL LOAD.

Remedy

NAVISTAR WILL NOTIFY OWNERS, AND DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE IOTA ITS-50R TRANSFER SWITCH FREE OF CHARGE. THE SAFETY RECALL BEGAN ON MARCH 15, 2012. OWNERS MAY CONTACT NAVISTAR AT 1-800-448-7825.

Notes

NAVISTAR'S RECALL NUMBER IS 12504. CUSTOMERS MAY CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY: 1-800-424-9153); OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV.

Navistar could not pull up my Vin # as part of the recall. Next is REV to call!

[Tom Cherry]

8 hours ago, Gary M said:

Navistar could not pull up my Vin # as part of the recall. Next is REV to call!

Folks....need to bring up a little history here.  The original post was a 2002 model. I have NO IDEA when Monaco started using the IOTA 50R, but there were so many complaints and such that eventually there was a NHTSA recall.  There were at least 5 or maybe MORE RV manufacturers that elected to do the voluntary recall.  IOTA has NEVER accepted responsibility for the faulty switch.  

Monaco went TU or BANKRUPT in 2009. They entered receivership. Therefore the original installation or manufacturer, Monaco, no longer existed.

In come Navastar. All the MH's that they manufactured or sold WERE RECALLED....or were supposed to be. Those of us (including the 2002 Winsdor) are "ORPHANS" or that is what the NHTSA calls us. We have NO PARENTS or DADDY. We are on our own. Navastar replaced all the ones that they sold.

Bottom line....It matters NOT if REV can find any info or such. The IOTA Recall was a BLANKET for the 50R switch....going back to the first one....and IOTA says that it is a MAINTENANCE or OWNER or USER responsibility to check monthly the condition of the screws and it is the USER's responsibility to tighten them.

PROBLEM IS....  The switches rattle and shake loose. The terminals overheat. Folks have tried to "fix them" and also Loctite them.....it has not been successful.....now that is like saying is you are in the path of a Tornado, your house will be destroyed. Obviously the movement and the up and down and such will leave houses unscathed compared to cleaning a house next door to the slab.

These switches FAIL. They are a FIRE hazard. They will let you down. It was ONLY the manufacturers that did the recall....NOT IOTA.

Rev probably has very little info on them....we, the Monacoer's crowd....know more about them from personal and group use than the Rev folks know....  They can pull the NHTSA bulletin....and then say.....we don't have ANY liability for an MH NOT MADE by us....so therefore, the 2010 and newer models were RECALLED by Navastar after most of the Industry got spooky and with the Norcold fires....NO ONE WANTS TO BE NAMED IN A LAWSUIT OVER A RV FIRE.

Bottom line....if it looks OK and there are no charred terminals or melted plastic and it is tight....then MAYBE it is OK. We had several Camelot owners who were meticulous and tightened the terminals....and then one night.....SMOKE and BURNING SMELL. Fortunately, the power was killed, but the IOTA 50R was charred and failed.

As a SIDE NOTE, I talked to ESCO and they say....TIGHTEN THE SCREWS EVERY MONTH.  RIGHT.....  I talked to some electrical contractors and also did some searching and contacted Loctite. The Loctite Green is rated for Electrical connections.....the Blue is for larger screws as is the Red....which is permanent. We have had many electrical folks that cringe or say....NEVER LOCTITE a connection. That is FINE for a home. BUT....in a MH.....think a Mag 4.5 as you drive.

I used Loctite Green on my ATS and also on the HW50C and have checked them and they are tight. The layman's way to make sure that you hit the 35 - 40 Inch Pounds of Torque required for the connection is this.  Use a good fitting or hand filling screwdriver. IOTA used #2 Sq Drive lugs.....that is good...  BUT, ESCO uses a flat blade recess. Put a shop towel (Mechanic's red or blue rag) around the screwdriver handle.....maybe two thicknesses.  Then after they are ALL tight.....go back over and use all the muscle or hand strength that you have.

I was responsible for QC aqnd a Gage Lab in a former job and we had very expensive Torque Measuring equipment or certification. So, I played around in there and figured out that my "limit" was around 40 Inch pounds using a hand held screwdriver or nut driver.....

I also helped the adjustable pedal manufacturer that had to recall all of our pedals and put in a brace or bracket. Their engineers had a procedure that no tech could follow or understand and you needed a $250 inch pound wrench. I suggested the screwdriver technique and they ran studies and BINGO....they adopted the procedure.

Hope this explains this.....the SWITCH for our orphan (pre bankruptcy) coaches are BAD and they are OUR responsibility......

 

[dirtydeeds]

I guess my biggest question is this:

 

do I just take off all the leads on the gen side and swap to Ats, the do the same on shore power side? And that’s it? Or is there other stuff that needs to be tracked down and swapped?

[Guest Ray Davis]

6 hours ago, dirtydeeds said:

I guess my biggest question is this:

 

do I just take off all the leads on the gen side and swap to Ats, the do the same on shore power side? And that’s it? Or is there other stuff that needs to be tracked down and swapped?

It's been a few yrs for me but I believe that's about it.   However,  those wires are stiff and uncooperative,  so it's a little bit of a wrestling match.

You need to kill all power or it might kill you.   I suggest unplugging from shore,  gen off, and disconnect battery ground cables.

[Gary M]

On 7/15/2021 at 6:40 PM, Scotty Hutto said:

It would be worth a call to Navistar…

Ok all watching this thread!!!

I want to thank Tom, David, Scotty, Frank and all who contributed to this thread. (I think Frank did. If not, I’m sure he thought about it.)

Bottom line like Tom said “we are on our  own”. Navistar said they have no open cases. NHTSA has no open cases and REV is not responsible for anything prior to their purchase of Monaco/Holiday Rambler.

So both Tom and David have good info and whether u agree or not or are dazed and confused, just do your due diligence and good luck!!!

PS: Norcold has been replaced. Next Iota.

[Tom Cherry]

17 hours ago, dirtydeeds said:

I guess my biggest question is this:

 

do I just take off all the leads on the gen side and swap to Ats, the do the same on shore power side? And that’s it? Or is there other stuff that needs to be tracked down and swapped?

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/727384/Iota-Its-50r.html?page=2#manual

The IOTA 50R, when you remove the cover, will have a GROUND tab or lug on the LEFT SIDE... The wiring is subdivided as follows. There will be FOUR terminals per section.  HOT L1 BLACK; NEUTRAL WHITE; HOT L2 RED and GROUND GREEN.  You MUST follow that convention when you reinstall.... The three sections, left to right, are..

GENERATOR

SHORE or POWER or LINE CORD

LOAD OR MAIN PANEL OR CIRCUIT BREAKER

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1731127/Esco-Lpt50brd.html?page=2#manual

The ESCO LPT50BRD has three main leads or the cables in a different order.... LEFT to RIGHT, they are

LOAD or MAIN or CIRCUIT BREAKER PANEL

GENERATOR

SHORE OR POWER OR LINE CORD

SO....you have to do a little tugging and pulling and then rearrange the cables.

The order of the terminals is different
WHITE - Neutral

HOT TWO (Line 2) RED

HOT ONE (Line 1) Black

NOW....on the RIGHT side of the box, NOT SHOWN in the manual, but it is on AMAZON.....there is a GROUND TERMINAL BLOCK.  Therefore, you have to strip back the outside jacket, probably 10" or so, and then you run the THREE GROUNDS to that terminal block. You will probably have to cut off the three insulated leads and restrip them to get them to fit inside.

This was NOT a major job. I used masking tape to label each of the three lead or the jacketed ones. THEN, you follow the convention of Line 1 is BLACK; Line 2 is RED and Neutral is WHITE and the Bare is GROUND (or it would have been GREEN).

Here is the Amazon link which has a better photo of the interior....

https://www.amazon.com/Elkhart-LPT50BRD-Automatic-Transfer-Switch/dp/B007HS0ONG/ref=asc_df_B007HS0ONG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312146506965&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6836412353768694194&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009731&hvtargid=pla-491530624460&psc=1

Esco also has a very good trouble shooting manual that explains things. NOTE....I DID NOT CHANGE ANY SETTINGS OR DO ANYTHING. The LPT50BRD comes set up almost exactly like the IOTA 50R. Richard Smith and the older folks like me can go on for HOURS about how IOTA or TODD was developed and then TODD when broke....and how IOTA came into being and how LYGHT was actually the Techie folks....and that LYGHT design is what ESCO bought and is marketing.... 

If you opt to put in the HW50C, you need about 2 ft of Service Entrance Cable (jacketed or a "Romex" cable). It has THREE Stranded #6 Copper insulated conductors and a #10 Ground. SOME Monacos used a #6 or maybe a #8 Ground....and some just had the #10 Ground. The #10 Bare meets code....so buy this....Home Depot and Lowes sells it. You will need about 2 1/2 Ft of LiquiTite or SealTite flexible 3/4" conduit. You will need to purchase TWO 3/4" fittings in a STRAIGHT and a 90 Deg....so you have flexibility. You will also, unless Progressive has changed, need adapters.  These are just large Fender Washers. The OD is 1 1/2" and the ID is 3/4". These washers are for the inside of the HW50C so that the 3/4" fitting work....very easy....

Good Luck.... DO NOT FORGET THE GREEN LOCTITE.....