2003 signature bedroom slide switch no power

[joefromperry]

Suddenly I have no power to the bedroom slide switch on my 2003 signature 45 commander. Starting in the rear run bay, on the J5 connector, there is power to the red wire that, according to the wiring diagram, then goes directly to the switch. The wires are all bundled in the plastic conduit as far as I can see, but I'm not sure if there is some point between the rear run panel and the switch where a connector might be failing or the wire might be exposed. The wire runs from the conduit in the bays up through the vanity, which is not easily accessible. I'm going to try to use a tone tracer to see exactly where the wire runs, but I was wondering if anyone has had this problem and / or replaced the wire itself. When I jumper the middle spade of the switch to 12v power, the slide works fine.

[joefromperry]

update: so I connected a tone-tracer to the wire in the rear run plate, and I get a good solid tone on the power wire at the switch. This makes no sense to me. If the wire has no breaks, which the solid tone indicates, and it's connected to 12v power, how is there no power at the switch? Suggestions?

[Paul J A]

What is the voltage on that 12v line to the switch when the slide is closed? The wire may have a different position when the slide is in/out, insulation rubbing or ???. Run a new power line and be done. Now a known circuit by YOU.

[JJMonaco]

Check if there is power at the switch with a volt meter.  If so, lift up the bed and check the connections at the electric motor.  Could be a ground problem?? Have someone operate the switch and check for power at the motor with your volt meter.  I will check my wiring diagram when I go to my coach to see if I can figure out where the relay is that should be feeding the motor.

John J

2002 Signature Centurion

[Tom Cherry]

8 hours ago, joefromperry said:

update: so I connected a tone-tracer to the wire in the rear run plate, and I get a good solid tone on the power wire at the switch. This makes no sense to me. If the wire has no breaks, which the solid tone indicates, and it's connected to 12v power, how is there no power at the switch? Suggestions?

Voltage measurement TRUMPS tone generator.  The tone generator will not tell you if the wire will carry a milliamp or 1000 amps.  Just that there is a circuit.  Don’t stress over the seemingly diametrically opposed measurements.

Next.  From your wiring diagram, it appears that you have a 12 VDC POSITIVE circuit.  Monaco had some “grounding” circuits that drives folks nuts. You probably understand this, but for,others….the switch is a momentary contact switch. It is a center OFF Single Pole Double Throw switch.  Power to the Bottom contact typically is retract….the bottom contact wire goes to the retract Relay on the rear slide control board.  Likewise, power to the top contact energizes the Extend relay on the board.  There are two sets of relays….one pair for each side.  The switches do NOT carry full load motor amperage….just a few milliamperes to energize a relay coil.

Now that theory is out of the way, the fun begins. There is a “break” in the bedroom slide 12 VDC control wire.  That wire, which you say comes from J5 has a crimped connector on each end.  Then god only knows if there if a pigtail or plug to connect the two harnesses.  Odds are ….YES.  The looms or bundles are pre installed and then snapped or mated together.  

OK, Do you have a an IGNITION SLIDE OUT INTERLOCK?  You said that the red wire, J5 goes DIRECTLY to the switch.  Mine goes through a Bosh relay or lock out to prevent the slide from being operated with the ignition switch on.  That is just a comment…and if you are sure there is NO IGNITION relay downstream, then you have an open circuit or a break somewhere.  

NOW, does the wardrobe slide work OK?  Are the switches next to each other? My system has only ONE power wire,  it goes through the ignition lockout relay and then feeds BOTH  switches…. Mine does NOT have a control power wire in for individual switches….the same power wire is tied to both center contacts of each switch.  

I have had to recrimp or fix at least three terminals over the years…maybe more.  Monaco did not always do a good job when the looms or harnesses were made up.  I’d disconnect the J5 terminal and pull or yank on the wire while holding the crimped terminal. I’d do the same at the switch.  If the switches are next to each other and have two separate incoming center leads ….swap them.  The outgoing wires (top and bottom) go relays on the main board. 12VDC is 12 VDC.

Sorry if you know all this but many folks don’t understand how the slide control works and are not “electrical savvy” to understand the prints.