New File - Door Bushing Replacement & Latch Adjustment

[Frank McElroy]

With all the discussion on entry door latch adjustments, I decided to combine a few existing files in our File Downloads section to pull all the information into one document.  The new file link below covers how to check and replace the door latch bushing, adjust the latch mechanism, replace the door handle and an option to configure an alternate entry into the coach before a door latch failure.

NOW is the time to do a little PM and check to see how much travel you have on your outside door handle before the latches release. 

Like new you will be about half way - but if you are close to the end of the door handle travel before the latches release it's time to inspect for a worn bushing and/or a latch adjustment.

  

[Just Jim]

Mine has been difficult to open for many years.  I think I'm about the only one that can open the door at this point.  My door is different than your pictures and requires removing the entire inside cover/trim.  I've read your repair instructions before and I guess it is time to finally attempt this project.  However, it seems like a ton of work for something so simple.

[Craggar]

Thanks for posting this Frank, I was thinking about this not long ago and had seen some of this info but couldn't remember where.  Do you know if the outside handle is the same part #13438-04 on a 98? I it's discontinued but there is a replacement for that part # and for the price I was just going to order one since mine is original and has been well used. 

[RVhorod]

Frank, 

Thank you for posting this file, it's fantastic. Our door has become difficult to open lately.

[vanwill52]

Frank, you are an invaluable resource to this group.  I hope to meet you someday.

[Jim Pratten]

Our handle was at the end of travel before the latches released so seemed like a good time to make some adjustments. Inspected the "bushing" per Frank's instruction and found we had 100% material loss.

Our lock tab was worn a bit and decided to use this slightly larger bronze bushing.  Enlarged the ID to 9/32" and had to file the flange flat at one location to allow full travel of the bushing to the unlocked position. Ordered a pack of 4 bushings and managed to destroy the first two while drilling so you have to be careful.  For these 6mm ID bushings, first drilled to 1/4" (after couple failures) followed by 9/32".

Huge improvement; the door now opens just past half way of door handle full travel.  Thanks @Frank McElroy for making the effort to put this together!

 

 

[Dr4Film]

I have to get inside my entry door this winter while back in Florida as the outside handle is at the end of its travel to open the latches. I've been using the outside handle PLUS pushing on the door to get it to open. I also have left the drivers window unlocked just in case!

[VinceB]

I did do a search and found another thread that had similar questions but they were not directly answered.

I adjusted my striker bolts as best I can but have a couple of questions.

Because they don't "float" all that easily, should I put some silicone spray behind the plate?  They are loose-ish but they are very difficult to move - I doubt the door can move them.  Any looser and I fear the nut on the back will eventually vibrate off.

How far are they supposed to move up and down?

What is the mechanism behind the bolt? I assume there is a nut on the backside - will it vibrate off if I leave it too loose?

[Frank McElroy]

A while back I had to oil mine.  Here are a few pictures of what the mechanism looks like.

 

[VinceB]

Thank you Frank. I'm fairly certain mine are in the same condition.

Yikes - is that threaded backing plate secure in place? I'd hate to have it fall inside the frame.

[Frank McElroy]

Yes, it is secured.

[VinceB]

UPDATE:

I bought 3 of the bushings at Ace as per the document in the opening post. Then I had my son machine 3 OD sizes: .32, .35, and .375 (the way it comes) all with the ID of 9/32.

I opened up the door and there was no bushing (could not see any remains of one either) and lots of wear and the parts so I used the .35 OD - .375 was way too big  - a little does go a long way. It slipped on with just a bit of effort. The door opens now at about 2/3 of a  pull.

Pix are below.

If anyone would like me to send them the .32 OD I'd be happy to. This one has a bit of a deformed flange due to getting it into the chuck but I would be very surprised if it made any difference. First come first served. YMMV.

 

 

 

Edited November 5, 2024 by VinceB