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Prefer tile . . . I think


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Forgive me in advance for my many questions - I just hate diving into a project & then finding I'm over my head (and blown up my wallet)!

Our 2006 Dynasty is in need of some flooring attention (dated/dirty & a few tiles loose and grout cracked/missing). I've flipped houses & have done my share of tile work - however - never in one of these "rockin & rollin" houses. 

I know a lot of folks are tearing out the tile & going back with LVT (weight saving, cheaper & easier DIY install . . .). However, we really prefer the look of tile/granite.

We're wondering if anyone has found a LVT manufacturer that makes a really good looking tile/granite LVT? So far, the ones we've seen at the big box stores don't have the look we're after.

If we go w/ LVT, do we float or glue down? Can you glue down a LVT that has a insulative backer? How do we accommodate for the thickness differential b/t the existing tile/thin-set and the thinner LVT - specifically where it meets the slides & quarter round? Do we add a layer of underlayment to accommodate for the difference? Will it require slide height adjustments? What about potential damage to the surface of the LVT from slides going in & out?

If we choose to go back w/ tile/granite, is ceramic better than porcelain - what about granite (other than the price)? If we have no issues with the subfloor - and can remove the old grout sufficiently - can we lay the tile on this surface or will we need to install new underlayment?

What's the best thin-set & grout to use to minimize cracking? I've read about using Ditra, however, won't this further increase the height of the finished floor (I'd prefer to not have to mess with leveling the slides)?

Then there's the carpet redo! I can tear it out - but I won't be doing the install!!

Thanks for your input!

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My coach (and license) are only rated for like 25000 lbs, so ceramic will never be an option for me.  
Our coach came with carpet, but the PO poorly installed vinyl plank flooring which was poorly glued down to to the existing subfloor.  I will be redoing the whole rig at some point.  
His workaround for the height difference at the main slide was to use 2 strips of the leftover plank positioned at the roller location whenever it was being retracted or extended. Seemed to do the trick, even those sacrificial pieces the roller moved along never had any damage or depressions on it, so I think even vinyl plank is up to the task.  
Another option would be build the subfloor up until end result is flush with the existing areas and install a nice low profile transition strip. 
Guess I should mention my slides are raised floor slides as well. 

There is some very nice looking LVT available out there, but there’s also some very nice looking ceramic too.  Choice is yours. I think either is fine.  

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look at Which RV Floor is better here on this site... just a few days old.... lots of answers to some of your questions.

After my reading thru it, I believe I will be looking closer to the cork option.... it sounds like the perfect combo of warmth/flexibility/waterproofness for a motor home floor.

Ken

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25 minutes ago, Cubflyer said:

look at Which RV Floor is better here on this site... just a few days old.... lots of answers to some of your questions.

After my reading thru it, I believe I will be looking closer to the cork option.... it sounds like the perfect combo of warmth/flexibility/waterproofness for a motor home floor.

Ken

The link seems to be missing. Never mind, I found it.

 

Edited by Tom Wallis
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If you go the cork route, you will for sure need a piece of wood, thin metal or something else to act as a runner for your slide rollers if you have that style. 

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1 hour ago, BradHend said:

If you go the cork route, you will for sure need a piece of wood, thin metal or something else to act as a runner for your slide rollers if you have that style. 

Most of the slides already move over vinyl plank that is glued down. The exception is the bed so I need to see where the rollers sit. In general, installation would be on areas like the bathroom in the rear (currently carpet), on the driver slide (weight concerns) and in the cockpit.

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1 hour ago, 1nolaguy said:

exception is the bed so I need to see where the rollers sit.

In my bedroom, the rollers are mounted to the floor, there are planks on the bottom of the bed box that the fixed rollers on the floor ride on..... no rollers are riding on any floor surface.

 

2 hours ago, Michael J said:

don’t like the wood plank look

I 'get' that, there is plenty of wood on the inside of my MH, so looking at a product that does not look like wood but is lighter than tile is how I'm leaning..

Ken

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Thanks @BradHend - weight is not my primary concern as we already have tile in the coach. I'm wondering if "the look" is something that's achievable with LVT. Sounds like the PO did quite a few "work-arounds" (that's a very gracious way to identify them)! Cork sounds interesting, but it sounds like the gent that installed it did so where they had carpet. We're planning on putting carpet back where we currently have carpet.

Thanks @Cubflyer - I've been following the "Which RV Floor is Better" thread. That thread actually prompted my more specific questions in my current post. 

@Michael J where did you find that product - big box? I actually ordered some samples from Karndean https://www.karndean.com/en/floors/  I'm interested to see what they look like in real life.

From a DIY labor perspective, I think I'd prefer the LVT - just not sure we can get the look we want. We'll keep hunting . . .

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It’s a product that is carried by a local flooring company here in northern Ca. Abby carpets it’s a chain. They have several examples on the website google coretex stone it has the look of marble in person which I like and can either snap in place or be glued down has thin cork and rubber type backing

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