Awning Track Rivets

[Agpopp]

While in SD last week, my Carefree awning rivets pulled through on the top of the rear track. The holes and rivets look as if they were only through the wood paneling and fiberglass.  The holes in the coach look ok. 

I have done some searches here, and came up with a mention of exploding rivets? Surely someone has had this issue before.  Another thought I had was some type of expanding anchor?  Let me hear your thoughts!

[1nolaguy]

I had the same thing happen on our rig several years ago. I replaced the rivets with SS as originals were aluminum. I can not recall the size but I know a standard rivet gun would not work. I found one that would at Harbor Freight:

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/fastening-tools/riveters/13-in-heavy-duty-professional-hand-riveter-58018.html

Hated to buy a specialty tool for one project but much cheaper than mobile tech.

I only had one side fail but decided to drill out the other side and replace those as well while doing this project.

[Garry Donohue]

this is the size to use from the phone number on the package. The Rivet gun at harbour freight was only $19.99 it’s still hard to pull but you can do it. 

[justdoingit@att.net]

Search for “Oscar Rivets” ie exploding rivets….

[Martinvz]

There is a pneumatic rivet gun available on Amazon for about $100 that is verry easy to use. See the beltline video made by Scotty and co. 

[jacwjames]

9 hours ago, Garry Donohue said:

this is the size to use from the phone number on the package. The Rivet gun at harbour freight was only $19.99 it’s still hard to pull but you can do it. 

I used these rivets. bought a jobbers pack of #11 drill bits off Ebay, and a pneumatic rivet gun from Harbor Freight. 

[Agpopp]

Thanks for the replies.  I have some 3/16 rivets here but can't get them to grab. I'll order some of the exploding style ans see what I can do. Thanks 

[Agpopp]

Back after a while to tackle this. Got the exploding rivets, no good. Holes are a bit too big and it's hard to get them deep enough in the hole to get them to stay. I need some type of toggle anchor to remedy this, and I found some bullet style drywall anchor ls I'm willing to try. Otherwise, I'm gonna have to through bolt to the inside somehow and I really don't want to do that. 

I have these in hand? But am apprehensive.  

Don't know if I can squeeze a 1/4 rivet. 

[jacwjames]

These might work, benefit is that they seal the hole. 

https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-3327-Expansion-10-Pack/dp/B00I2VTETC

Drill the correct size hole and insert the expansion plug, then use what ever length bolt you need to be able to start the threads.

They actually sell these at Lowes, I used them to reattach the toilet blade mechanism. 

[Agpopp]

14 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

These might work, benefit is that they seal the hole. 

https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-3327-Expansion-10-Pack/dp/B00I2VTETC

Drill the correct size hole and insert the expansion plug, then use what ever length bolt you need to be able to start the threads.

They actually sell these at Lowes, I used them to reattach the toilet blade mechanism. 

Good idea! Looks like I'll have to drill the hole bigger,  but I like the sealing mechanism. 

You also reminded me about Jack nuts , used to hold mirrors on truck doors back in the day. 

[jacwjames]

The Ford Transit van I recently purchased had one of the Easyload ladder racks on it.  They used the rubber expansion nuts to mount the channel on either side, big benefit on the sealing to prevent leaks.  I know I've read of some people using these to mount solar panels on the roof. 

They make different sizes so may not need that big of hole BUT not sure how many it would take to hold an awning on.  Either way the fiberglass has to have enough structure to hold. 

I wonder what @throgmartin recommends in a situation like this, I'd trust whatever he recommends, might be worth reaching out to him.

Edited September 25, 2023 by jacwjames

[justdoingit@att.net]

The issue is that the side wall is 1/8” fiberglass with 1/8” Luan plywood bonded to the fiberglass. Not much to work with. In the past I’ve bonded some 3/16 aluminum to the fiberglass using 3M5200. The 5200 takes a few weeks to fully cure, but once cured it isn’t going to come off. Paint the aluminum if so desired and once cured used the appropriate sized self tapers to secure the hardware.

[Agpopp]

On 9/24/2023 at 9:35 PM, jacwjames said:

These might work, benefit is that they seal the hole. 

https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-3327-Expansion-10-Pack/dp/B00I2VTETC

Drill the correct size hole and insert the expansion plug, then use what ever length bolt you need to be able to start the threads.

They actually sell these at Lowes, I used them to reattach the toilet blade mechanism. 

Well, these worked pretty good. Thanks for the tip. Only bummer is 1/4 20 takes a half inch hole....so there's the rub. I used stainless screws and fender washers to go with it, so if this won't hold,  on to plan C. 

[jacwjames]

OK, keep us posted.