Martinvz

Well, I put the battery charger on the battery last night and the battery voltage this morning was 12.9V and 4 hour later it settled to just over 12.8V with which I was very happy.
I received help from Nick (@K9 EXEC)  who offered to come and help as he was in the area. we checked the volage and the battery and the voltage would change when the pressure on the screw in terminal was changed. Nick was concerned about this and we replaced the battery because on inspection in the store it was clear that the battery case was bulging. We also opted for different screw in terminals that would make better contact with the battery cables. After installation the engine charging was correct and after shutting down the parasitic draw was very low. 
The conclusion is that the battery was faulty and needed to be replaced.
As far as the Latching relay, we agreed that is for the 'salesman switch'. We also confirmed that there was not a Bird relay installed and that the battery was not charged when on shore power (oh, well, easy enough to charge it up periodically) and it took me only 11 years to learn that.
Thanks to all for the great advice and specifically Nick for his help and con versation.
 

Welcome to the group from another in PA.
Removing and cleaning the old stuff is going to be a PITA and could be dependent on the material that the outer roof is made of. A lot of us have fiberglass roofs and for that you can use alcohol and acetone. Other members may have other recommendations. 
For the roof you should use Dicor self leveling sealant or similar products on the horizontal surfaces. I use a plastic tool to smooth the Dicor so as not to create divots where water can pool.  Scrape away as much of the old sealant as you can and use a hair dryer or better, a heat gun, to soften any sealant and it will be a lot easier to remove. 
The Dicor will bridge small gaps but for larger gaps you will need to consider a different product such as Eternabod tape that needs to be applied and then rolled with a J-roller. Once done, cover it, and especially the sides with Dicor. 
For the vertical sides of the coach use ‘ProFlex RV’ and beware it is sticky and not easy to smooth. Do short 6” lengths and smooth with Acetone on your finger before moving on. 
You can PM (private message)any member that provided info and you need additional clarification using this site. 
Edit: I forgot: Never use Silicone based sealants as the residue is very difficult to completely remove. The same applies to products such as Flex Seal. Stay with the recommended TV products. 

You can measure the amps or, with the 120v power off and disconnected, measure the resistance. The element has, as I recall, 15w resistance. 
See the attached post on this topic. You can also Google it.
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/how-to-test-electric-water-heater-element-107612.html

I may way off base but on my coach with hydraulic jacks I get a similar issue if the reservoir is not completely full.
Make sure all the jacks are retracted and check the oil level. When in doubt, you may want to add some and see if it solves the problem.

Amazon has it. Look for gripper tape. 1 or 2 inches should be sufficient. 

We have a similar door lock and we have very little automation in our coach. When we searched we came up with the same answer, nothing fits. We were at the FMCA rally in March and stopped at a booth where they were selling replacement locks. 
We had to go and measure our existing lock to see if there is a solution. We were informed that there is currently not a replacement for the model door handle/lock. Very disappointing.
We will keep trying periodically to see if a replacement is available. 

Thanks Fred. Looks like I can replace the multi-function switch and not the complete control arm. And save $50, sweet.