Roof tape peeling up

[martinsimba]

Newbies to RVing. My wife and I just purchased a 2007 Safari Simba and we are excited and a bit overwhelmed. Wanted to have the roof professionally done over for our first time, however not been able to find a shop to do it this time of year. Worried that water will breach, so we are going to tackle it ourselves. It has always been stored indoors. We welcome any advice!  

We have a few questions about what products to use to seal the long seams between caps and the roof. The manual recommends UVR Elastiseal which I believe is no longer made. It looks like a black tar substance on the seam "tape" where it is curling up.

1. Does the black substance need to be completely removed before putting down a new seam tape?
2. What seam tape or product is recommended?
3. What kind of sealant is underneath the seam tape and does that need to be scraped out and replaced?
4. There is a black substance around the skylight and vent, should they be repaired in the same manner as the seams?

We are located in Pennsylvania and will have a storage unit for the month of January. We’re hoping to be able to get the work done at the beginning of January so it has time to cure before we bring it home where it will be stored outside with a cover.

We really appreciate any input. Thank you!

Edited December 1, 2023 by martinsimba
Add a pic

[Chad A]

It looks like someone sprayed flex seal on the seams. That is what the black stuff looks like to me. 

[Martinvz]

Welcome to the group from another in PA.
Removing and cleaning the old stuff is going to be a PITA and could be dependent on the material that the outer roof is made of. A lot of us have fiberglass roofs and for that you can use alcohol and acetone. Other members may have other recommendations. 

For the roof you should use Dicor self leveling sealant or similar products on the horizontal surfaces. I use a plastic tool to smooth the Dicor so as not to create divots where water can pool.  Scrape away as much of the old sealant as you can and use a hair dryer or better, a heat gun, to soften any sealant and it will be a lot easier to remove. 
The Dicor will bridge small gaps but for larger gaps you will need to consider a different product such as Eternabod tape that needs to be applied and then rolled with a J-roller. Once done, cover it, and especially the sides with Dicor. 
For the vertical sides of the coach use ‘ProFlex RV’ and beware it is sticky and not easy to smooth. Do short 6” lengths and smooth with Acetone on your finger before moving on. 
You can PM (private message)any member that provided info and you need additional clarification using this site. 
Edit: I forgot: Never use Silicone based sealants as the residue is very difficult to completely remove. The same applies to products such as Flex Seal. Stay with the recommended TV products. 

Edited December 2, 2023 by Martinvz
Additional info

[Garry Donohue]

I just saw a similar video on what your going  through today. Go on YouTube and look up ( azexpert )

You  have to scroll through the many videos to find the one you need. He shows how to remove the old tape and the “black stuff” that you spoke of. He is good. But takes awhile to find the right video. Take your time and wear blue gloves. 

[martinsimba]

Martinvz- Thank you for the detailed answer. Would like to PM you, but not sure how to on this site? Appreciate your help!

 

 

Edited December 2, 2023 by martinsimba
spelling

[Russ R]

Martinvz gave great directions. You can PM him by clicking on his large initial (at the top left of his answer) then click on the message at the top.

[cbr046]

Definitely Dicor.  Stay away from other sealants and caulks. 

Dicor stays elastic and moves with the expansion / contraction of temperatures.  What it doesn't do is stick to vertical surfaces, so don't try it on the sides of the coach, etc.

- bob

[hex_nut]

I am a big fan of Eternabond tape, especially on the seams to the front and rear caps.  The key to good adhesion on Eternabond is correct preparation.  Thoroughly cleaning off the old "crap" is very important.  Then remember that Eternabond is a pressure sensitive tape and must be firmly rolled down with a hard roller.  Years ago, I actually resorted to using an angle grinder with a coarse wire brush to remove the layers of old caulk on the roof seams.  It was messy and complicated the cleanup process, but it worked.  Hopefully, you can get the old stuff off with a combination of heat and scraping.  Good luck with your project.

Richard    

[Martinvz]

Doug, to create a PM message, click on the triple horizontal lines at the top right of the web page   Then click on the envelope icon. That is where the messages are. 

[martinsimba]

I'm still wondering on my fiberglass roof when doing the seams for the front and rear caps, if decor should be put down first to seal, then Eternabond on top of it as a flashing and then dicor on that? So a three step process?

I watched AZexpert as recommended, and he said Eternabond is a flashing not a sealant, which now makes me fell like I need a sealant down first. 

Appreciate everyone's wisdom and willingness to help!

[96 EVO]

1 hour ago, martinsimba said:

I'm still wondering on my fiberglass roof when doing the seams for the front and rear caps, if decor should be put down first to seal, then Eternabond on top of it as a flashing and then dicor on that? So a three step process?

 

You wouldn't need more Dicor over top of the Eternabond.

Some like to apply a small bead over the leading edge of the tape, supposedly to prevent the tape from lifting. I never have!

[isptbart]

I have found using a vibrating tool (I have one of the original SoniCrafters, but there are other maunfacturers), with a regular flat scraper blade works quite well on removing old caulking. Makes the job much more effective, less hand work & a lot faster. No messy results to clean up like using a wire wheel. I also used the same tool for removing old grout for our tile floors in our RV & in one of our home showers. I ended up wearing out more than one blade. Replacement blades can be purchased on Amazon, Northern Tool & even Harbor Freight! The tool also has other blades for effectively cutting wood & aluminum in tight close quarters. A very versatile tool & well worth the money for a DIY person! No I'm not a dealer either! :>) 

Bart from VA!