1nolaguy Posted November 6, 2023 Share Posted November 6, 2023 I recently did a fairly extensive rebuild on our Atwood LP/ELEC (2004 build) 10 gal HWH. I replaced the thermostat, ECO, CB and gas valve. Basically everything on the outside. Since doing this I found the Electric side was not working so assumed the element had go out but have not changed it yet. The light at the control panel switch for 120v does light up. I just mention this as an FYI. The 12v / LP seems to work fine except it occasionally does not. When I turn on the switch at the control panel inside I can hear the LP cut on and the HWH works but occasionally the DSI Fault light comes on and the HWH does not light. I am not sure if these two things are related (LP issue vs 120V) of if this is two different things. As to the DSI Fault, if the system was not all new I would say perhaps there was a partial blockage in the LP line on the furnace tube (also cleaned out with the refit). Since this is intermittent (does not occur all the time) I am wondering if it is switch related or should I be looking again on the CB. Any thought? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr046 Posted November 7, 2023 Share Posted November 7, 2023 I found a mud dobbers nest inside the burner chamber once, and these little spider mite things inside the gas orfice inside the burner chamber. - bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick A Posted November 7, 2023 Share Posted November 7, 2023 Did you try replacing the 37022 Limit Switches? I refurbished my 10 gal tank completely because it was misbehaving. It’s working well now and I think it was these switches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinvz Posted November 7, 2023 Share Posted November 7, 2023 You can swap the 12v and 120v switches as they both are 12v rated to check if the switch is faulty or not. Then check if the 120v is coming on at the element. These steps will help identify the cause of the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted November 7, 2023 Author Share Posted November 7, 2023 Bob, I cleaned out all of the lines during the overhaul. Unless bugs moved in during the last 30 days this is probably not the case but worth a double check. Rick, I replaced the limit switches (aka thermostat and EOC) during the overhaul also. 9 minutes ago, Martinvz said: You can swap the 12v and 120v switches as they both are 12v rated to check if the switch is faulty or not. Then check if the 120v is coming on at the element. These steps will help identify the cause of the problem. Thanks Martin, I had not thought of swapping out the switches to est them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrAmbassador Posted November 7, 2023 Share Posted November 7, 2023 My issue was not intermittent, but it turned out to be the control board. Replaced and works just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmw188 Posted November 7, 2023 Share Posted November 7, 2023 Try a amp meter at the breaker in the panel, see if it’s drawing any amps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted November 7, 2023 Author Share Posted November 7, 2023 17 hours ago, tmw188 said: Try a amp meter at the breaker in the panel, see if it’s drawing any amps. Tim, not sure if you are referring to the 12v or 120V but I had not thought of that. If the electric element is not working I should not have any amp draw, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmw188 Posted November 7, 2023 Share Posted November 7, 2023 (edited) Yes correct. 120 v panel. A clamp AC/DC multi meter is probably the most used tool in my collection. Watch some videos if you don’t know how to use one. If you buy one be sure it will read DC current. Edited November 7, 2023 by tmw188 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution Martinvz Posted November 8, 2023 Solution Share Posted November 8, 2023 You can measure the amps or, with the 120v power off and disconnected, measure the resistance. The element has, as I recall, 15w resistance. See the attached post on this topic. You can also Google it. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/how-to-test-electric-water-heater-element-107612.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmw188 Posted November 8, 2023 Share Posted November 8, 2023 25 minutes ago, Martinvz said: You can measure the amps or, with the 120v power off and disconnected, measure the resistance. The element has, as I recall, 15w resistance. See the attached post on this topic. You can also Google it. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/how-to-test-electric-water-heater-element-107612.html Good idea Martin, quicker to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted November 8, 2023 Author Share Posted November 8, 2023 Great suggestion Martin. Thanks for also sharing the link. Todd is correct, this is a much quicker and easier approach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr046 Posted November 8, 2023 Share Posted November 8, 2023 Better yet, connect to 30A source and your Energy Management Panel will give you amps. No tools needed! - bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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