Wayne Thomas Posted May 31 Share Posted May 31 2002 Monaco Windsor PKD - how hard is it to remove stall to get access to the flex pipe on the holding tank? Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted May 31 Share Posted May 31 Some thing I'd try to avoid, probably not impossible but a lot of work. Can you not reach it by removing the panel in the wet bay. That should get you pretty close to the shower drain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Thomas Posted June 6 Author Share Posted June 6 Jim I removed the two panels and I can see the top of the tank and fittings going through the floor no help but not a lost cause replaced upper panel with aluminum diamond plate everything on one panel more room below I believe the flex pipe is in the wall just behind the shower wall I don’t want to take apart all the wood trim I all ready have to remove the face of the cabinet where the drawers are to remove the broken elbow on the drain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 On mine there is a tall cabinet to the left of the shower. There is an elevated shelf/box between the cabinet and the shower at the bottom. The drain for the shower comes to a Y elbow that goes down into the gray tank. There is also a removable access panel in front of the shower which allows access to the shower drain. Maybe between those two access point there would be enough access to do what you have to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Thomas Posted July 10 Author Share Posted July 10 Jim I removed a square foot area of the side wall of the slide out at the top connection of the flex joint and also made a access panel in the wall between the slide out facing the refrigerator so I could get to flex line . The flex is on a track and was in good shape all but the movement the last 5 inch wasn’t as free as the first 12” . I all ready cut down the middle draw to half its depth when I had a water leak while away I had to get a 1 1/4 clear tube to stick down the pipe that was still connected to the flex so I used that area for a new flex line that I laid horizontal in the back of the cabinet with a 8” slot cut in the cabinet wall so when I operate the slide the line will hold still until it gets to that 6” spot until the wall hits the 7” section of reinforced hard pipe connecting the two flex pipe I cut a 2” pipe on the table saw and warped it around the 11/2” pipe with a hose clamp around it at the three joints and then operating in the other direction a block of wood contacts it when it comes to the stiff area .The pipe was attacked to slide out wall when coming into the stiff area it weakens the joints . I didn’t have to remove any cabinets but while doing this job I installed a new kitchen sink 18x24x10” deep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted July 10 Share Posted July 10 Did you happen to take any pictures?? From your description it sounds like it was the flex pipe to the kitchen sink. I haven't had a problem with mine but I know others have so I'd looked at existing access and it is limited. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Thomas Posted July 10 Author Share Posted July 10 Here they are Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted July 10 Share Posted July 10 Thanks, I'd dread it if I had to work on mine but like you I'd find a way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanwill52 Posted July 11 Share Posted July 11 I had to repair the sink drain spa hose from a full-wall slide on a 2013 (?) Camelot. It had developed a kink near its entry into the gray tank. I decided to replace the entire length of spa hose with an identical-looking one at Lowe's. That proved to be a major mistake. The Lowe's spa hose, although identical in appearance, dimensions, and "feel", turned out to be ever-so-slightly less rigid. When the slide retracted, it "pushed" the hose along a series of rollers to collapse it. For the hose to "fold and collapse" as the slide retracted, it had to be stiffer than the hose I bought from Lowe's. To make matters worse, the overhead clearance above the hose was almost non-existent. The only possible way to get one's hands on the damaged section of hose was to cut a hole in the floor above the hose entry into the gray tank. Unfortunately, the floor above (bedroom) was ceramic tile over heavy plywood. I had grave reservations about cutting through the tile. As it turned out, however, cutting the tile with a dry tile circular saw was very easy. Access to the hose and tank entry point was fairly easy. The repair ended up being only to repair the damaged end of spa hose near the tank and retain the rigidity of the original, stiff spa hose to enable the fold-up. Made a replacement wooded panel to close the hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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