saflyer

2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Every coach can be plumbed differently.

it is the owners responsibility to research their own coach as to how it is plumbed and wired.

What may be correct for one coach may not necessarily be how it is plumbed or wired in ALL coaches.

That was one of the very FIRST things I did once we got our Dynasty back home from Salt Lake City. As a result I found that the consignment dealership had mis-installed and mis-wired the two GFCI Circuit Breakers in my main power panel. That mistake could have cost us one of our lives! I also found that there was no water check valve on the inlet side of the shore water hose when the water pump is active. I generally have the water pump on ALL the time regardless of whether we are hooked to shore water or not.

OK, I'll keep looking for it but not exactly sure where to look.

A recent article in RVTravel.com was about a water check valve that went bad. The issue came to light when the fresh water tank was emptied while driving down the highway when the pump was left on, the valve failed and the water was pumped out the fresh water hose. Their advice is to carry a spare. My questions are do I have that valve and if so where is it located?

Actually, I can’t imagine how the plumbing would be designed to connect the fresh water fill hose to the pump. I’d think they would be very separate.

2005 HR Ambassador

1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

There is a big inconvenience using a CC, there are usually limits at the pump as to how much you can pump and/or how many times you can swipe a card. 

For me having options is a big draw on setting up either TSD or Mudflap, plus the quicker fill time. 

1 hour ago, birdshill123 said:

TSD has improved. More Loves listed and Maverick. There used to be many areas in the SW where TSD had no locations. I refuse to use any card that requires me to go inside and stand in line.

“Go inside and stand in line”. Twice!
 

And another gripe. I am convinced some convenience store chains don’t keep their pump printers stocked with paper or in operating condition so the customer has to go inside for a receipt increasing the chance they will buy something. If that happens to me twice at a location I don’t get gas there anymore.

On 4/3/2020 at 2:38 PM, a4epilot said:

A HUGE thank you to those who took the time to respond to my many questions regarding air conditioners! 👋

There is no way, other than through the help of this forum, that I ever could have learned so much and been able to be confident that I am making the correct decisions for my installation.

Here is what I decided to do. 

1) Replace both 2006 Penguins (1, 15,000 BTU &  the other 13,500) with 2, 15,000 BTU Penguin II's. 

2) Replace the drain trays and add the extra gasket needed to obtain clearance.

3)  CCC II thermostat.

4) WackO Products DA100 Dometic RV A/C Silencer Kits

Thanks again to all of you willing to share your experiences and knowledge on this subject!

Always sends shivers up my spine to think where we'd all be without each other. Undoubtedly, there would be many coaches parked permanently.

Gary K

Rather than the Waco A/C silencer you might look into two other products, RV Airflow Systems and KoolRV. They seem to work on the same principle of improving the airflow to the ducts. I installed the Wacko and didn’t measure any reduction of sound level. Save Solberg of RVTravel.com looked into the Wacko and concluded the sound reduction they report is mainly due to improving the taping inside the box of the A/C units a job the RV manufacturers are supposed to do but don’t do it well. You can do this without buying the Wacko item.Does anyone else have experience with these three products. The RV Airflow and KooRV items appear to have very similar designs but the latter is half the price os the former.

https://www.rvtravel.com/ask-dave-how-can-i-make-my-rvs-roof-air-conditioner-quieter/

19 hours ago, cbr046 said:

If you "get directions" through the TSD app it switches over to Google Maps.  OK, It's a 2nd app but you don't have to hunt for it.  Then just do satellite view.

- bob

Thanks. Didn’t know that. Google’s street view is very useful for Rivers, also.

On 12/13/2019 at 6:53 AM, throgmartin said:

Just wanted to say thank you to Scotty and several others here who mentioned the TDS Logistics fuel card.

Ingrid created a separate corporate checking account that ties back to this card. We keep high balances in all of our corporate accounts for payroll and other daily expenditures and did not want this card tied to one of those accounts in the event the card was ever compromised.  I used the card at 2 Loves fuel stops last week and it worked like a charm. No need to pre pay and the transaction was smooth right at the pump. What I really liked was the discounts - 38 cents / gal for one fuel stop and 35 cents on the other. 

If anyone is interested here is the link. I highly recommend getting this card. It will save you money and pretty much painless in getting your account setup.

https://www.tsdlogistics.com/services/fuel-program/

Thank's again everyone,

 

 

One thing I wish TSD would do is have a satellite view option on the map. When I find a good price with their app I have to open another mapping app and locate the station to see it in satellite view. Would like to not have to do the extra work. I’ve suggested this to them with no response.

11 hours ago, Steven P said:

I have TSD and was worried about this too. I created a fuel account that TSD is tied to.  I move $ in when needed to only keep a small amount in case of hacking.  Never had an issue. 

Ditto. I had a free checking account with my brokerage. Never used it so I dedicated it to TSD. 

On 4/12/2024 at 8:21 PM, Kenster said:

Will someone please Point me towards the files section. I am looking for wiring diagrams.

 

I feel your pain. Went through the same process. Many times told to get the file but the website says ”downloads” not files. Eventually I figured it out.

1 hour ago, Benjamin said:

I suspect that's a circuit board with an alarm buzzer that's located there to be close to the driver. One tell tale is the shrink wrap has a hole above that round part.  Don't worry about dead end connectors, they built these motorhomes on a common wiring harness that has lots of extra loops of wire and dead ends for other options. 

 

Wouldn’t be surprised if it’s a buzzer.

OK, opened the steering house. There was one connector of wires that led up the steering column to the steering wheel. It was difficult to pull out and inspect. 


Then this odd one. I’ve never seen anything like it. 

The end of whatever the above is.

And the label on the back side.

Then these three connectors with nothing to connect them to.

I’ll go in and check the wiring diagram but am not very good at reading them.

Does anyone have any guidance?

’05 HR Ambassador 

6 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

I would think you would be ok if you used a large fender washer or better yet add a plate underneath in that area. More important would be how the chair is mounted. In a bad accident it would more likely be a possibility of the chair becoming detached if not securely fastened 

Two considerations are strength of attachment and would it interfere with operation of the slide. 

14 hours ago, cbr046 said:

@saflyer I found the gremlin, and the mysterious connector "under the dash".  Turns out it was inside the steering housing.  I was actually chasing something else when discovered.

One jumper is for headlights, the other is for running & marker lights. 

 

Next time I get a whiff of burning plastic I know where to look!

- bob

 

Thanks. I’ll look inside the steering housing.

On 2/6/2024 at 8:38 PM, dl_racing427 said:

I have a question.  Why would you want to risk having your coach not covered while you're living in it?

I never understood their logic in doing that.
I'd think they'd be better off having less turnover, and just giving reasonable rates to existing customers, instead of constantly having to do all the work to write new policies.
At least offer matching rates when a customer calls in ready to cancel their policy for a competitor.

A little known secret. Many people believe they get a loyalty rate when stick with an insurer. The insurers know that indicates the customer isn’t shopping and increases their premiums regularly. If you don’t shop it bites you. 

23 hours ago, Cubflyer said:

I’m just wrapping up removing carpet and replacing it with LVP, on my slide-out the seat belt bolts were flat head carriage bolts that came up from the bottom, very outboard edge near the wall, where they pass thru a metal angle underneath the floor. Not just thru the wood/fiberglass floor.

I’ve thought about this. Replaced my jackknife couch on the drivers side, flush floor slide out with a chair that faces forward. Would like to move one of the seatbelt bolts from the wall side of the slide to the interior side. I wondered if the bolts went through more than plywood where they are now and you answered my question, metal and plywood. Now if I move one to where the floor is just wood would it be effective for a seatbelt. Plus, slim as the seatbelt bolt head is would it interfere with slide operation in the new position. I need a solution since my wife rides in that chair. 

4 hours ago, Robertpk said:

Good afternoon to all. I also have a 2005 ambassador and the empty relay connector is for a daylight running lights. I have wiring diagram for 2005 ambassador.

2005 Ambassador wire diagrams.pdf 16.23 MB · 4 downloads

Wow! That's great. I'm much more comfortable with the actual diagram for my coach.

Thanks

17 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

There is NO good circuit on your MH, but this is how the majority of them work.  There is a SIGNAL coming from the Headlight switch. It goes to the HI/LO switch inside the steering column. That switch then controls the HIGH or the LOW. What the tech did was replace the Clearance Light Relay.  What that did and why it works....GOD ONLY KNOWS? 

You need to find a tech that can trace a circuit. There is a long running thread on "FIXING HEADLIGHTS".  The issue is...  There is a major Voltage drop inside the switch.  Folks put in TWO relays (that is what is in the picture) and have ONE for the BRIGHT and ONE for the DIM. They power them directly off the battery.

 

In your case, my bet is that the Headlight Switch is defective. If it is NOT sending a 12 VDC signal to the HI/LOW switch then that is the real culprit.  I am attaching TWO Topics or Links.  One is about how to add the relays.  The RELAYS depend on there being a GOOD Headlight Signal from the Headlight Switch. 

The second is on FINDING the commonly available Headlight switch. You can change out the Headlight switch yourself and it is easy.  That MIGHT just fix the Headlights....but you MUST FIRST pull the relay that the tech put in. The prints for your rig show a "Clearance" light relay...but I don't understand why it would make the headlights stay on, even after you turn off the switch.

IF changing the switch and then removing the relay "FIXES" it, you know it was a bad switch...which is a VERY COMMON PROBLEM..  

THEN, if the Headlights work (and I think....but will NOT BET...that they do), then you can either drive on or if they are TOO DIM (low voltage) add the two relays so they are direct powered.

That's my take on it...  Look at the print below.  This is for a RIG with the VIP wheel, but if you look at the circuit there is a FEED from the Headlight Switch directly to the HIGH/LOW switch and then each circuit goes to the pair of headlights.

That's it...  GOOD LUCK...

 

 

Headlights and Fog lights.pdf 105.34 kB · 0 downloads

Great information Tom, especially the part about the light switch sending 12v to the dimmer switch. I’ll put it to work.

Thanks,          
Ed

22 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

So basically they don't have a clue and want to pass the buck.  I doubt Freightliner will touch it.  IMO they'll point the finger at the coach manufacturer and not want to get into it either.  Now, if you can find a tech that will dig into wiring diagrams and actually chase wires . . . . Bonus if they have Gumby flexibility, too. 

And when you finally do find your gremlin let us know.  My headlights have been cutting out and I've yet to find the magic.  The last two 1 hour trips they worked perfectly.  Of course, they were daytime trips.  🤐

- bob

I had running lights but no headlights, dim or bright. The tech got them working by inserting a relay in what he said was an empty slot in the front run bay. Don’t know why there was an empty slot. I never removed anything from it. Now no brights but the dims work all of the time regardless of switch position. To operate now I exit the coach and insert or remove that relay. We never drive at night but if something happened and I needed to I can now.

55 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

I’d use the 2006.  There was a continuous evolution of wiring upgrades…primarily in how to charge the “chassis” while in storage.  The 05/06 years were the most “dubious” for the upper end (Dynasty and above)… as in that was a MAJOR change….but not for you…. Once that settled down the lower food chain models started to benefit.  For example, the 2008 was a total upgrade from the 05 - 07 Camelot/Scepter.

You’re pretty safe with the 2006…it will be close….just don’t make the “gospel”.  You may (probably) have a prewired trailer brake system…but Monaco got it messed early in 2005.  As long as you aren’t working on that, then you’re close.  Our rule of thumb, from a Moderator’s use….one up and one below and then “start to home in”.

My present problem is the headlight are inop. One service center advised taking it to Freightliner. Does that make sense?

I have a 2005 HR Ambassador. I understand it is the twin of the Monaco Knight. When searching for wiring diagrams in the files section there are 2002 Knight-Ambassador and 2006 Knight. Any guidance on which I should use?

On 1/30/2024 at 8:37 PM, MJ.STIGER said:

only other add would be DC/DC charger and some solar panels. 

With solar I find I don’t need alternator charging since I only drive in the daytime and the panels keep the batteries charged even while running the residential refrigerator. So didn’t bother with DCDC charger.

On 1/30/2024 at 1:33 PM, Rocketman3 said:

Issue#7 - monitoring. The old 4 led battery monitor will no longer work. You should have a shunt based battery monitor. I use a Victron BMV712 (or Smartshunt), Magnum also has a shunt.

Good Luck

Magnum shunt needs to be the one that works with lithium. The original ones did not. Lithium ones model number ends in “-L”.

On 12/10/2019 at 9:51 AM, jacwjames said:

Where is the best source for the Lifepo4 battery.  I did a quick search and only found them in 12 volt.  What size do you recommend. 

I will have to replace my old batteries soon and looking for options.  I can buy 4 AGM from Sams for ~$160 this month.

What amp hours and voltage are the Sam’s? I assume 6v.

On 12/12/2019 at 11:22 AM, jacwjames said:

I have a RC7 Xantrex inverter, will this be capable of charging the lithium battery?  I checked the manual and it has 3 settings, Gel Cell, Lead Acid, and AGM.  Which setting would work.

I was contemplating adding extra batteries to better handle the additional load of the new Samsung RF18 I just installed.  This might be a better overall solution considering the existing space and weight savings. 

 

Does the Xantrex have the ability to input custom charging? Using a non-lithium profile can work but might only change to 80% of the lithium’s capability. Plus as I understand it you MUST disable equalization charging. It will destroy lithiums. Worth a call to Xantrex for their input.

On 10/20/2023 at 10:27 AM, Larry Laursen said:

There is one common beeper for several alarms, so the sound will come from the same place.  You need to replace the Nason switch.

Here is the part number: SM-1C-66R/WP28 by NASON - Buy or Repair at Radwell - Radwell.com

It's mounted under the arm rest consol on the park brake valve.  You can access through the cup holde.

I wish I had a cup holder in the left side console. The one in the drawer in the center console is a stretch while driving.

19 hours ago, cbr046 said:

This might help.  Just ignore the colors.

This is mine. At least six wire all of which are white and only three labeled. Behind my abilities. Took it to the shop.

7 hours ago, cbr046 said:

You can take it apart, too.  Bend the two tabs on sides and everything comes apart.  *AND* (the best part) it'll go back together again!

- bob

Got the switch out. There are far more wires than I expected. They are all white and only a couple labeled and they were for panel dimming. Oh well, it’s off to the shop we go.