saflyer

1 hour ago, Elizlampe said:

I replaced my headlight switch. I was able to go from under the dash and not pull the dash out. YouTube was my friend. Just need to get the right switch. 

Linda E.

2000 Monaco diplomat. 

My switch is very difficult to access the back side. I tried to look at it but can’t get a view. Did you just do it by feel?

My headlights aren’t operating. They don’t come on with high or low beam settings. Nor do the small lights on the front below the running lights. (I don’t know what those are called nor which switch position turns them on. Can someone please educate me on this?) The amber running and red tail lights work. I checked the fuse in the forward run bay and it’s good.
 

Next I plan to check the switch. Looks like I’ll have to pull the dash to access it. What is involved in that job. I see it appears to be held in place by several screws. Will it come out after removing them or is there more to it than that? I’m concerned about the possibility of breaking the dash. Wondering if this is a job I should attempt or should I take it to the shop? I’d like to do the troubleshooting myself since it might be a simple fix.

Ed            
‘05 HR Ambassador 

20 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

I wasn't clear.  When I said same, I didn't mean shared.  On my 8.3C, there were two identical sensors, one for the ECU and the other for the dash gauge.  I do agree that there is more likely wiring issues with the dash gauges, but that is not because they are not accurate.  If you have wiring issues with the ECU sensors, problems would also occur.  I think this topic has run it's course.

  -Rick N.

I think we should let the original poster or moderators decide when topics have run their course. Any reader has the option of no longer visiting the topic.

Ed

6 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

My point was that those systems were not "Management" systems.  As you state, YOU can operate the coach - YOU are the Management system.  A ScanD can not "manage", meaning take preventive or corrective action.  It can only present data to something or someone who can take action.  The Engine Control Unit/Module (ECU/M) does have "management" functions, and can display warning and if not heeded, de-rate or completely shutdown the engine, as an example.  ScanD can not do that.  Some may think I'm splitting hairs, but I wanted to ensure readers that these would not "Manage" or Protect their coaches, that is usually left up to the operator, but if he ignores, there are built-in management systems to take over.

Some feel that reading a digital number is more accurate than an analog gauge, but they are only more precise.  The accuracy comes from the sensor, often the same sensor (like water temp or oil pressure) that the analog gauge uses.  

  -Rick N.

 

But isn’t there an accuracy difference if the two gauges have an obvious difference in readings?

On 7/10/2023 at 10:37 AM, waterskier_1 said:

Aladdin, Bluefire, Scan Gauge, and others are NOT Management Systems.  They are only Monitoring Systems.  The Management it performed by the ECU (Engine Control Unit), the TCU (Transmission Control Unit) and others.  You do not NEED any of the Monitoring Systems for your coach to operate properly.  If you did, Monaco would have included them.  But the Monitoring Systems do help you see what is going on, and present a lot of information that some find useful, to include Speedometer, Tach, voltage, coolant temp, trans temp, turbo boost, and a host of others.  Most also provide a Diagnostic Tool, which can read error codes (similar to what an OBDII scanner does on a gasoline engine) and can even reset (clear) some of the codes.  

  -Rick N.

I purchased the ScanD after my analog coolant gauge read over maximum allowable and the audible chirper sounded every time I climbed a mountain. Repeated trips to Cummins produced no record of overheating. After installing the ScanD it was obvious the analog gauge read noticeably high. All that is to say I believe I do need a device like the ScanD so I can operate the coach properly. These units are far more accurate than analog gauges.

Ed          
‘05 HR Ambassador

On 8/8/2023 at 2:27 PM, Kuhlbreeze said:

MODERATOR's EDIT.

Brian @Kuhlbreeze just PM'ed me with his 1999 Diplomat Tire Data Plate.  Based on the Hankook Inflation Table and his 10K Front and his 19K rear Axle, he will be OK at 90's or so.  BUT, if he weighs and gets a LOWER inflation MOST folks would advise NOT TO GO BELOW 90...based on all the comments from folks and knowledgeable folks, most experts and our members say not to go below 90 for a MH tire.  Therefore 90 all the way around will be fine for his Axle ratings I have attached the Photo to clear things up.  Thanks to Brian for sending it to me...END of EDIT

I have new Hankook tires 275/70R22.5 load range J  in our 99 diplomat wondering  what tire pressures you guys like I was running 100psi in all seems like a slight harsher ride 

If possible best advice is to weigh each wheel position rather than axle then use heaviest side time 2 for the tables. But that’s not always possible to get position weights.

Thanks all. The immediate question: the house battery isolation switch has two cables from it on the coach side, one to the inverter and one to the coach 12v items. I’ve been advised to replace it as it’s a cheap one. A Blue Seas switch is suggested. But as Tom Cherry said we should always do what is described in the wiring diagram and sometimes wiring has been changed over the years. So I just want to verify I am installing the new switch correctly.

Where can I find the wiring diagram for my ‘05 HR Ambassador?

Thanks

I have two 12v LiFePO4 lithium batteries installed in parallel in place of the original 4 6v batteries in serial/parallel. The original setup had what I believe is one Class T fuse on the positive line from the batteries about 3 feet from them. A few questions. First, I watched a video that said any fuse should be within 7 inches of the power source. Do I need to move the Class T fuse closer to the batteries. If so it will require new cables.

A bigger question, though, is what fuse protection should I use. I’ve read Class T is best with ANL and MRBF fuses are next best in that order. What is more confusing is one person on a forum said I should have a fuse on the positive line making the parallel connection between the batteries and another on the line from battery two to the system. I’ve never seen anything like that. Would they be different size fuses since the second one would have to protect for twice the current of the one between the batteries? Nate Yarborough of explorist.life, a site for learning about van solar installations, has wiring charts that show just one fuse on the main cable connecting the battery bank with the battery cutoff switch.

Regardless of whether it’s one or two fuses can anyone help me with the size of fuse(s)? Like I said, the batteries are 12v. The max continuous discharge rating of each is 100a, peak discharge 200a(3sec) and max charge current is 70a, 40a recommended. I have my charger set for 50a max. Since there are two batteries in parallel should I size the fuse for twice these numbers plus a margin? I’ve heard 120% as this margin. So should the fuse be at least 2x100ax120%=240a fuse or 2x200ax120%=480a fuse for the peak discharge number? 
 

Thanks,          
Ed            
‘05 HR Ambassador

Some Buc-ee’s have separate RV fuel pump islands. I wonder if they all have transitions from the road to the parking like the one that caused your problem?

Watch CBS Sunday Morning show:

https://www.cbsnews.com/news/welcome-to-buc-ees/?intcid=CNM-00-10abd1h
 

The New Braunfels, TX Buc-ee’s, where this story was shot, was the largest. Not anymore. It has 32 urinals, I counted. (Hey, everyone needs a hobby.)

22 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Could pretty much happen anywhere but I've never been to a Buckey's!!  Just built a new one near me, may have to take a ride in my car and see.

I had to add a skid mechanism on my coach.  The old house we lived at had a steep driveway, had trouble with both my Class C and the Windsor.  Class C had skids on the back already, added these to the rear using off the self stuff, one on both side.  I added it to protect my tow bar as it would drags in steep entrances.   Might be over kill but it's saved my bacon a number of time.  Drove out a lot in Flagstaff and there was a huge dip that I didn't see until I got too it and with the Jeep couldn't back up. 

I fastened 2" receiver to the bottom chassis rail using plats normally used to attach springs to trailer.  Used 2 plates one with 4 holes one with two, six 5/8" hard bolts total.   Then just added a double hitch, and the bottom roller is a mounted in a 2" tube.  Yes this all adds weight but I've never had a problem with my tow bar. 

Looks that could be really hard on the coach frame if it really connected with the pavement?

On 4/28/2023 at 7:48 AM, Tom Cherry said:

The decision needs to be made based on use and realistic expectations and overall costs and one “resources” and future intentions.

I believe the soft starts are in the $319.  So, that will be an expense plus labor if you are now electrically incline.  Could be $638 for a dual unit.  The cost of two new Dometics and the new Thermostat is around, dealer installed, $5200.  The real question is how much use have they had and the likelihood of a future failure.  Doing a dual system piece Neal is, IMHO, a losing proposition.  You spend, dealer installed, $500 to dumb down the new unit….and hope the other one and the thermostat hangs in there.  Then you spend another $200 of so, assuming you got the original “smart” control module to have it reinstalled in the first unit.  So $700 lost and you might recoup $100 for the dumb module on eBay.  

The other issue is the predicted failure.  We have full timers with 07’s and they are failing.  II know several early 2000 folks that have already replaced.  I know some mid to late 2000 owners that had a failure and replaced.  My plan….run until one dies and then do both as I don’t won’t to spend $5900  for a system that could have been replaced earlier for $5,200….plus, with inflation, next year it could cost $500 more.  My rule in an inflationary economy….buy it today….it will cost more and it is tough to invest your money and get it to grow faster than today’s inflation rate.

My technical questions

I ASSUME the soft start will work on a new Unit…the company has very little Tech Support and a lot of fancy web advertising.  If I had failed AC, would it be wise to put them in new units?  

How long do the Soft Starts last.  I thought I had read that they had a shorter life that a stock or OEM capacitor?  Is any RV or OTR AC manufacturer using that technology?

I had to make “buy new vs fix old” decisions on equipment that ranged up to a Million….one needs to think through it and get the best value.

Has anyone put in a Soft Start and the AC failed with a year?

My concern is more for the groups benefit….as the poster asked so we all have a good understanding and not have to make a quick decision.

Thanks

Should we compare and contrast Easy Start vs. Soft Start?

On 4/11/2023 at 7:23 AM, Dr4Film said:

Not all "tire balancing beads" are made the same. I have used RV Tire Balancing Dyna Beads purchased from Innovative Balancing in Las Vegas. Thats' the ONLY place I would trust in getting the correct product for your tires.

I had no issues at all with those beads.

I have since converted to Balance Masters as they can be mounted and then transferred to other coaches if needed. Whereas the beads are harder to collect and transfer. Therefore when changing tires with beads you have to use new bags for the tires.

Here is the web site for Innovative Balancing.

DynaBeads Tire Balancing Beads (innovativebalancing.com)

I used the RV-EZO121 packages for the 295/80R/22.5 tires or M144 Toyo's.

Tell us more about Balance Masters.

On 4/7/2023 at 6:16 PM, Traveling Dodsons said:

I’m looking to change out my start batteries these are fried i have to charge them each time I crank.

 I’m gong with

Lifeline GPL-3100T AGM RV/Marine Battery 

Volts 12

Length In (mm) 12.9 (327.8)

Width In (mm) 6.74 (171.3)

Height In (mm) 9.27 (235.5)

Weight LB (kg) 67 (30.4)

Cold Cranking Amps

68F 1120

32F  950

0F     810

They are made by Concord a company known for aviation batteries made in the USA at their plant (stats pulled from their web site)

 

My motorhome still has the Duracell 31C batteries it had when I purchased it used over 11 years ago. I don’t know how old they were when I bought the coach. I know I should probably replace them just because but I’m really proud of them.

CA   32f 1140a         
CCA 0f.   950a

On 3/30/2023 at 10:32 AM, Tom Cherry said:

Two things you need.  You need a “three” stage maintainer….I prefer a desulfonator, but that will not “undo” damage from sulfonate loss.  However, it will PREVENY future damage and is what you need when you eventually replace them.  I have 2 desulfonators on my house and one on the chassis.  These are from Pulse Technology and only desulfonate.  

Next, you need at least 1.75 A, 2 A is better to properly maintain the chassis.  Folks have been disappointed with the 1.0…and had premature failure.

Pulse Technology makes a higher current device.  Their equipment is top drawer and no reported failures.

I ALSO assume that in storage you have FULL 30A power.  If so, you have, to me, TWO better alternatives.

Preferred.  Pull down my 2009 Camelot prints.  Add an Intellitec Diesel 2 Unit.  I don’t know if your Boost Switch powers the Intellitec Big Boy.  That would be the 200 A model. If you have the 200A model, then adding the DIESEL2 is a snap.  All 12 Gauge wiring….no big cabling.

My Camelot does NOT use or have the “GENERATOR” input as Monaco and M&M (Intellite support” said is I not needed.  $120 & $5 wire and crimp thermals and you are updated to full BIRD charging.  Forget a supplemental maintainer.

Second…again assuming you have the 200 A Intellitec Big Boy, use an Automotive or cut down a long Automotive jumper cable.  Put it between the House and Chassis positive.  I and several others use a hard copper pipe jumper over the Big Boy or a ring cable #2 Jumper for storage.  One member has some major control board problems on a 2009 Dynasty and has “hard wired” the two banks with a fabricated piece of copper pipe.  He has 50 A service at home, so he keeps both banks up.  He does little boondocking as the downside is that BOTH banks are drained.

By upgrading your system to the 2008/9 DIESEL2, which was the last circuit change through 2012/13….when Rev killed the Camelot, you have no issues.

That’s my take on it and represents the consensus after some 11 years of reading and learning and moderating and troubleshooting charging issues…
 

 

I just bought a clamp meter that reads DC current. If I did it right the parasite draw on my chassis batteries is just .17 amp. Does that seem realistic?

23 hours ago, CorinthWest said:

In the unlikely event you want to stay with a NotSoCold, I have a complete 1200LRIM in working condition, WITH manuals - FREE to the first person who shows up with a truck (yes, I am still trying to get this off my porch - LOL).

Where are you located?

21 hours ago, birdshill123 said:

You must have a special reason to not want a house fridge. A backwards change.

I went to a 17cf Whirlpool when I replaced my Norcold 1210. Later I learned about the 12 volt conversion for the Norcold. Since I like to boondock on solar I might have gone that route even though it would have been considerably more expensive despite the cost of cabinetry for the Whirlpool. I do seem to have enough solar power for my righ in the summer that might not be the case in the winter.

Ed          
‘05 HR Ambassador 

On 4/2/2023 at 7:53 AM, throgmartin said:

The hitch rating for most Monaco's is 10,000 lbs and 1,000 lbs tongue weight. Tongue weight can be adjusted with the load you are carrying. When I was still traveling and doing RV events I towed a 26 ft enclosed trailer. My overall weight changed constantly according to the amount of product I was carrying. I purchased a tongue weight scale and used it before each trip and adjusted my load accordingly. It isn't hard to do. I was very OCD about using my trailer and loading and adjusting weights was on the top of my list for each and every trip. One only has to tow a poor handling trailer once to know how important load adjustments truly are. The max weight I ever towed with my little Cummins 330 was 8,500 lbs. It did well but I wouldn't want to tow more then that.

Many Monaco's can handle more then 10,000 lbs but the hitch has to be completely redone and beefed up. I ran into a Prevost owner at an NHRA track. I have never seen any rig combination come close to what he had. Large Stacker trailer which when connected to his bus he was 80 Ft. long. His hitch was custom made and beefed up to carry 20,000 lbs which he said the Detroit had no issues with. He also stated he had never been pulled over or harassed once about the length - except in CA where they made him drop his trailer and arrange a truck to take it to the track. I watched as It took 3 people to park him with walkie talkies at the tracks. Can you imagine finding parking places in rest areas with that rig ? Crazy. Most semi's are 65 ft and I believe the law is 65 ft in most states. There are a few exceptions.

I was thinking of getting a Hydralift carrier for my golf cart. Loaded it would add about 1800# on my rear but considering the lever arm the rear axle would have about an additional 2700# on it. Pulled out the CAT scales report and my rear axle is within a very few pounds of its capacity. Guess I can’t tow anything that has a tongue weight. Back to the drawing boards.
BTW, I tow about 6000# of car. The Swivelwheel and cart will bring me near 8000#. Nice to know adding a Swivelwheel dolly with the cart won’t hurt performance too much since we have identical coaches.

Ed           
‘05 HR Ambassador 

3 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

OK.  Stick with the first plan.  I vote for the Pulse Technology based on their knowledge and reputation and also quality and service.

SECOND. JUST CURIOUS.  Did you have the Intellitec BIRD Diesel 2 module or just a plain IRD that only allowed Chassis to Charge House and not Vice Versa.  That would be good to know when folks have a 05 unit…. There was a lot of “messing around” with different configurations back then.  Thanks.

I just had the IRD which is now disconnected. I had planned on adding an Amp-L-Start to keep the chassis batteries charged but you gave me other ideas in a previous thread. I also was planning to add a DCDC charger to keep the house batteries charged while on the road but think the solar should take care of that.

2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Two things you need.  You need a “three” stage maintainer….I prefer a desulfonator, but that will not “undo” damage from sulfonate loss.  However, it will PREVENY future damage and is what you need when you eventually replace them.  I have 2 desulfonators on my house and one on the chassis.  These are from Pulse Technology and only desulfonate.  

Next, you need at least 1.75 A, 2 A is better to properly maintain the chassis.  Folks have been disappointed with the 1.0…and had premature failure.

Pulse Technology makes a higher current device.  Their equipment is top drawer and no reported failures.

I ALSO assume that in storage you have FULL 30A power.  If so, you have, to me, TWO better alternatives.

Preferred.  Pull down my 2009 Camelot prints.  Add an Intellitec Diesel 2 Unit.  I don’t know if your Boost Switch powers the Intellitec Big Boy.  That would be the 200 A model. If you have the 200A model, then adding the DIESEL2 is a snap.  All 12 Gauge wiring….no big cabling.

My Camelot does NOT use or have the “GENERATOR” input as Monaco and M&M (Intellite support” said is I not needed.  $120 & $5 wire and crimp thermals and you are updated to full BIRD charging.  Forget a supplemental maintainer.

Second…again assuming you have the 200 A Intellitec Big Boy, use an Automotive or cut down a long Automotive jumper cable.  Put it between the House and Chassis positive.  I and several others use a hard copper pipe jumper over the Big Boy or a ring cable #2 Jumper for storage.  One member has some major control board problems on a 2009 Dynasty and has “hard wired” the two banks with a fabricated piece of copper pipe.  He has 50 A service at home, so he keeps both banks up.  He does little boondocking as the downside is that BOTH banks are drained.

By upgrading your system to the 2008/9 DIESEL2, which was the last circuit change through 2012/13….when Rev killed the Camelot, you have no issues.

That’s my take on it and represents the consensus after some 11 years of reading and learning and moderating and troubleshooting charging issues…
 

 

Now I see I need to give more information. My coach does not have a B.I.R.D. When I installed lithium house batteries I disconnected the alternator charging circuit to them. So I’m depending on shore power or solar to keep the house batteries charged. That brings me to what I need to do, charge and maintain the chassis batteries when the engine isn’t run for some time.

I need to purchase a battery charger and maintainer to carry for my chassis batteries. Looking at a couple or three chargers, Schumacher 10a and 8a units that say they are maintainers and a Noco Genius 5. They all say they are set and forget chargers/maintainers but the Noco also says it has an onboard temperature sensor and a desulphanator which the Schumacher units don’t mention. I’m hoping a charger such as one of these can serve my purposes for general use in the motorhome. What are thoughts on these or are there better alternatives?

Ed             
‘05 HR Ambassador 

On 3/6/2023 at 1:13 PM, saflyer said:

Those are the details I needed.

Thanks

On 3/6/2023 at 12:33 PM, Tom Cherry said:

If you have an accurate clamp on ammeter, you can measure the parasitic load for your particular MH….and it w8ll vary.  Sometimes the type of IRD or whether you leave several phone chargers in the plugs or the minute amount of resistance in a cable connection or the gauge and length of the cables…..it all depends.  Those of us that have done such confirm that the parasitic load is around  1.75 A.  We also know that most are barely rated for 1.0A….and that is often overstated.  So, to get full reliability, purchase one with a minimum of 1.75.  Actually 2 amps would be better.  Don’t buy a cheap 2-6 A as it has no electronics to control Amps and Volts like the MH inverters have.  They will overcharge and toast (dry out) your battery as most starting batteries are sealed.

read the specs and get one that desulfonates.  

Pulse Tech is a brand that many use here to desulfonate.  They are trusted like Trojan.  They make an XC400.  Amazon sometimes has it.  Not today. 

https://www.pulsetech.net/xc400-xtreme-charge-4-amp-12v-battery-charger-desulfator.html

two of the smaller import brands that might not be reliable or deliver at least a combined (2 maintainers hooked will be additive) 2 amps MIGHT work, but I would buy the Pulse Tech as I trust their specs.

Looking at a couple or three chargers, Schumacher 10a and 8a units that say they are maintainers and a Noco Genius 5. They all say they are set and forget chargers/maintainers but the Noco also says it has an onboard temperature sensor and a desulphanator which the Schumacher units don’t mention. I’m hoping a charger such as one of these can serve my purposes for general use in the motorhome. What are thoughts on these or are there better alternatives?

Ed             
‘05 HR Ambassador 

On 3/15/2023 at 12:10 AM, jfasano88 said:

Thanks what is the name of the vent and size. Where can I buy one

John F 2009 Camelot kfq 

This is the vent in my coach. What is it’s purpose? How is it removed? Do I have to unscrew the collar to loosen it then unscrew the vent? If so does the collar turn standard direction?

What is the gold cone with a silver cap on the red hose?

Ed           
‘05 HR Ambassador 

2 hours ago, saflyer said:

I’d like to know more about this problem. We dump and then have the sewer smell for some time. I reasoned it was because our toilet flush doesn’t seal well and after dumping the residual feces was no longer covered by water. After several flushes the smell went away. Just my reasoning.

Now the information in this post suggests these vents. I’m not sure but my guess is these are at the top of pipes next to and attached to the sink and shower drain lines where the p-traps are. Am I correct? If so, since that is the gray water system how is that related to sewer smell?

Ed        
‘05 HR Ambassador 

Another, possibly related point. When I dump the black water generally flows freely until it’s empty but the gray water will stop flowing for a bit and then there will be a gurgle around the valve area and it flows freely again. I would expect the black water to be more prone to this behavior because of the solids and toilet paper but it’s the gray water tank that has the problem. Could it be a gray water tank vent that has an obstruction? If so where is it and what does it look like?