3 hours ago, tmw188 said:

Do you think the service have anything to do with loosing the cap?

Not much doubt. I’ve never lost one before and they checked the brakes.

Just now, saflyer said:

Not much doubt. I’ve never lost one before and they checked the brakes.

And hub lubrication.

1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

Monaco and HR twins

---

By saflyer
July 26, 2020 in General Motorhome Discussion

I would download that post to your Laptop or phone so you will have immediate access to it at anytime.

Note taken.

Thanks

On 3/4/2023 at 7:15 PM, Dr4Film said:

My search found

Monaco and HR Twins posted by you.

Sorry to be such a pest but I need that again. I tried searching “Monaco and HR Twins” like you said and I find nothing. Tried spelling HR out, tried inserting versus for “and”, models for “twin”. Don’t know how I found it before. Do you have any suggestions?

Thanks,          
Ed

1 hour ago, Steve P said:

Veurinks.  They will have the logo too.   They will need to know how many tabs hold yours in place. 

That’s where I bought the coach. I’ll call them.

47 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

I had better luck getting the proper rear cover from these guys!

https://www.wheelmasters.com/accessories.html

Veurinks shipped me a front, when I ordered a rear! 

Of course, a couple of years later, I needed that front 😖!

Interesting. I wondered if they were different.

Took the coach in for it’s annual service yesterday. When I got it home one of the hubcaps had become part of the roadside scenery. Are replacements available, if so where? 22.5 inch wheels and the hole for the cap is about 8 5/8”.

Ed              
‘05 HR Ambassador 

32 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

I doubt it!

All of my heat pumps have the original covers, and none have side holes!

Interesting.

Thanks

3 hours ago, hex_nut said:

The covers with the holes are intended for the heat-pump models with reversing switches.  Without those holes for just AC.

Guess I’d better look into this. I bought my coach used and it had solid covers. But it also has heat pumps so maybe I have the wrong kind.

23 hours ago, saflyer said:

I just wonder if the manufacturer had a reason for two different types, with and without holes.

I wonder if each is designed for a different A/C model and it’s not appropriate to substitute one for the other for operational reasons.

On 2/15/2023 at 8:04 AM, Dr4Film said:

I ordered one ICON AC cover for my Windsor without the holes by mistake. Then when the second cover needed to be replaced, I discovered that you could order them with holes. I then took the first cover and drilled holes in a similar pattern as to the new one. My opinion is that the holes allow for the heat to escape easier.

I just wonder if the manufacturer had a reason for two different types, with and without holes.

On 10/21/2023 at 5:54 AM, jrelmore7 said:

Make sure your fresh water fill valve is closed. If it is open the pump will stay running'

This might be it. Solved the problem yesterday. Will try again today.

I moved the coach yesterday. The airbags were low so that warning beeper came on. After it stopped I released the parking brake and put it in drive that warning beeper came on. Both beepers seemed to be in the same location and about the same tone but a difference in rapidity of the beep. Can I conclude the two warnings use the same beeper? Also, one person implied the leveling jacks are part of the parking brake/transmission alarm system. One of mine takes a long time to fully retract but they all appeared to be fully up when I did this test. 

17 minutes ago, Rico K 2005 Knight said:

On my 2005 Monaco Knight I just had the same problem and replace the air switch just below the air brake push/pull knob. I say below because mine is vertical. Yours might be horizontal so then it will be behind. Very easy replacement even if you're slightly handy.

Thanks, but I replaced mine once and it didn’t help. I know there was another solution written on some forum but I can’t find it.

My 12v water pump doesn’t shut off even with all the faucets closed. This problem just started last week. How can I decide if it’s a leak in a line or the shutoff switch is bad. If the latter I would think the tone of the pump would go down and it would slow down but not stop. Where is the pump switch, internal to the pump or external?  I am sure every faucet is turned off. Any suggestions on where to start?

Ed              
‘05 HR Ambassador 

20 hours ago, Rudeinsky said:

If, you have a spigot in the wet bay for a sending water out, (my Diplomat does.)

connect your fill hose to that and turn on the water pump and open the valve to recirculate the bleached water from your tank, run it for a while let it sit for 1/2 hour and run again. should do the trick.

My two cents,

Rudy

Aha, good one. I’ll check it out. I always wondered what that spigot was for. Hopefully the pump supplies potable tank water to that spigot. 

14 hours ago, Bobkat11208 said:

For what it’s worth, ours was similar. Replaced the Nayson pressure switch which fixed the issue. It’s a electro-mechanical device. Now levelers deploy, dash Parking light illuminates, and no “bong”.  They are a known issue and pretty easy to install. Cost was about $100 and took me <45 minutes to remove/replace.

I replace that switch years ago. Didn’t help. I know there was a thread on some forum describing a completely different fix that was supposed to do the job but can’t find it.

On 10/17/2023 at 7:49 AM, Steven P said:

That happened to me once before.  I recall noting the fuel mileage loss. The diesel smell after refueling grabbed my attention and made me check the other door.  In my case, I had opened it to add a fuel additive and forgot to cap it.  Lesson learned. 

What is confusing is after one fill a few miles down the road there was fuel all over my toad’s right side but that didn’t happen after the first refuel. For that matter the first time I actually overfilled to the point of getting some on the ground. But none on the toad after a long drive. Like I have said there are a lot of confounding points in this issue. My trip to Texas in February should give a lot better data.

I’ll have to check. I went out and started the crack, relieved the park brake and the light on dash went out. Put it in drive, released the brake and no beeper. First time that has happened on initial start that I can remember. Next time the beeper sounds inappropriately I’ll check the dash light.

Thanks

27 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

This is an older thread but wanted to update on my experience with system heat.  In the past we did not camp in colder weather but in 2021 I had a need for the system to work and wasn't confident it was. 

But I've been in Utah for the last + week and temps have been down to ~20F at night.  I do have the switch with "ON" indicator on my monitoring panel and I even installed a second light that I thought I'd be able to see come on at night.  The first really cold night I woke up at ~3AM and it was cold in the coach, I left a small space heater running but it wasn't keeping up.  So I turned on the furnace for ~1/2 hour and it cycled on/off.  For the nest several ours I slept with one eye open staring at the light in the bedroom, I never did see it come on.   I even got up a couple times to check on the monitoring panel, never saw that light come on.  I guess the old saying "A watched pot never boils" comes to mind. 

So the next morning when it got warm I checked on they system.  I bypassed the snap disc, the heater came on, and checked to see if the light came on and they did.  I then used a thermo gun and checked the fresh water tank temp on the back side, it was ~49F.  I then tested the snap disc by plugging it back in and resting an ice cube on it and it did start the heater, I did this several times.  So I confirmed the system was working.

So I moved one of my temp monitors from the Samsung refrigerator to back side of the fresh water tank so that I could look at the temps at any time.  This morning when I got up the basement wet bay temp was ~50F.  Now this morning I've seen both the monitor panel system heat and bedroom light come on periodically.   This morning @8:30AM the outside temp is 27F basement,  So I am starting to gain confidence in the system. 

Hope this helps others.

I just wish I could reach my snap disk. That would be so nice.

I believe there was a thread describing a permanent fix for a parking brake warning beeper that won’t turn off when the coach is put in gear with the parking brake released. I’ve searched for the thread but nothing I input for search terms gives the thread. The thread could have been on another forum but thought it was here. Mine does this frequently especially on the first drive of the day but eventually stops beeping. The length of time it beeps keeps getting longer and I’m afraid someday it won’t stop.

Ed       
‘05 HR Ambassador 

MODERATOR EDIT.

Please do NOT start a NEW TOPIC with an "UPDATE".  Continue to use the same topic.  Thanks

END OF EDIT

Mea culpa time, maybe. After fueling yesterday I moved the coach a few feet to a spot where it tilted a little to the right. Got out to find fuel pouring out of the right hand side. I quickly opened the fueling door to find the tank cap off and hanging from its lanyard. In most cases I fuel on the left side almost always but I guess I fueled on the right side in June which was the last time before the new tires. 
Now this doesn’t necessarily explain all of the mileage loss but it does explain some, possibly. Confounding factors: (1) I found the right side of my toad covered in fuel after one but only one refueling. (2) I would think after the loss of a few gallons fuel would no longer come out the open fill line. I did check for leaks multiple times and found no evidence of any. 
I won’t have a chance to do another mileage test until our next trip in February. Will update then.

Ed      
I thought I was wrong once but I was mistaken.     
 

40 minutes ago, NormMel said:

I am hoping you get an answer to this. We are wanting to sanitize our hose as well, we have the same power reel system. Sanitizing through the water tank is pretty straight forward. We just can't think of a good way to do the connected hose.

Think I could find a three story building and hold the hose all the way up to the roof then bour buckets of bleach water down the hose. Kidding but it might work. 
Wonder about something like the containers you attach to a hose and put weed killer in to meter with the water flow. If you could use one of those if it could be adjusted to mix 1 cup bleach with every 50 gallons of water flow?

8 hours ago, Gary Cole said:

Ed I think that it would be easier to just buy a new water fill hose than mess around trying to sanitize your existing .

My hose is permanently installed on a power reel behind a wall in the wet bay so not an easy or cheap task. Also, from where that hose attaches to the coach water system to the point it intersects the potable water tank line would still be contaminated.

16 hours ago, Martinvz said:

What will be your source of water to sanitize your tank, assuming you have not moved to a new location that has ‘good’ water?

Do you have a cartridge type water filter? You could remove the filter cartridge, put some bleach into the cartridge and let the water mix in the tank.

I have moved to where water should be good. I have run that water through all faucets for at least an hour so far. 

We went to a Texas state park last week. After setting up and using some park water I saw a note on the door for a “boil water advisory”. Now I have to sanitize my system. Suggestions are appreciated.          
I have a few ideas. I can put bleach in the potable water tank and run the electric pump through each faucet, hot and cold, which should clean most lines. One problem is the water fill hose would not get any bleach water through it. Also, the water I would put in the potable water tank would come through that contaminated hose.            
Second, should I drain the water heater then fill it with the bleach water? How do I know when the water heater has been refilled?          
Anything else I should do?

Ed               
‘05 HR Ambassador 
 

14 minutes ago, Steven P said:

Oops, I should have reread the post.  Thanks for clarifying.  Were there any other changes made around the time of the new tires? Bearings, brakes, etc.?

That’s OK. No changes to anything I can think of including our travel weight.

17 minutes ago, Martinvz said:

This is both interesting and concerning. However, one question not asked so far is, what type of terrain are you currently in that could affect your current fuel consumption? Is it level or are there a lot of grade changes? Also do you have a lot of head and/or side wind to deal with?

Good question. The first fill-up with most miles on the new tires was mostly level across central Oklahoma and north central Texas with a slight tailwind. The second fill-up was over slightly hilly but mostly level north central Texas with a 15-25 mph quartering headwind for the second third of the miles.

40 minutes ago, Steven P said:

I've been watching this w interest. Recently installed larger tires just on the front of my coach and did not notice any mileage differences.  @saflyer, were you checking mileage leading up to the tire change?  Or had you stopped watching mileage for some time, then restarted after the change?  Any other work done on the coach before the mileage change?  Have you talked to the people who did the work w your observations?  

My start of this thread had my last fill-up on the Michelins give 7.6 mpg. Average for the last 6 fill-ups before the new tires was 6.8.

49 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

 If the pavement is tilted the wrong way and I tilt the coach the other way I can often add a lot more fuel.   I have tilted my coach after it appeared full then added 30 gals.

So I figure a difference of 5 gals would be pretty easy for me to make.    IMHO  

I made it a point to use the same fueling lane both times so the lean would be minimized as a factor. Even if I apply a 10 gallon difference that only gives 5.2 mpg a 23.5% reduction in mileage.