saflyer
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Posts posted by saflyer
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1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:
Why would that type and style of drain ever be used in a shower? Tub, yes, but a shower, I don't think so, especially in any RV.
Replace it if possible or modify it to allow for proper draining of the water.
I guess it’s a tub/shower but only a little kid could fit in the tub part. I agree a simple screen with holes is the answer since we’ll never use it as a tub. A project for when we get home.
Thanks
8 hours ago, StephenW said:I would unscrew the plastic cylinder in the middle of the drain fitting and install a removable screen in the drain fitting.
That’s what I was wondering. Does the mechanical part come out by unscrewing it? Will try.
Thanks
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We’ve tried the hot water and hot water with dish soap route. That didn’t help.
In case this makes any difference here is the drain we are dealing with. I don’t think it lends itself to a plumber’s helper or any other probe. It’s the kind you step on to open and close. Would removing it and replacing it with a simple plate with holes be the answer?
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39 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:
If you have an accurate clamp on ammeter, you can measure the parasitic load for your particular MH….and it w8ll vary. Sometimes the type of IRD or whether you leave several phone chargers in the plugs or the minute amount of resistance in a cable connection or the gauge and length of the cables…..it all depends. Those of us that have done such confirm that the parasitic load is around 1.75 A. We also know that most are barely rated for 1.0A….and that is often overstated. So, to get full reliability, purchase one with a minimum of 1.75. Actually 2 amps would be better. Don’t buy a cheap 2-6 A as it has no electronics to control Amps and Volts like the MH inverters have. They will overcharge and toast (dry out) your battery as most starting batteries are sealed.
read the specs and get one that desulfonates.
Pulse Tech is a brand that many use here to desulfonate. They are trusted like Trojan. They make an XC400. Amazon sometimes has it. Not today.
https://www.pulsetech.net/xc400-xtreme-charge-4-amp-12v-battery-charger-desulfator.html
two of the smaller import brands that might not be reliable or deliver at least a combined (2 maintainers hooked will be additive) 2 amps MIGHT work, but I would buy the Pulse Tech as I trust their specs.Those are the details I needed.
Thanks
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On 2/21/2023 at 9:45 AM, Tom Cherry said:
Richard,
I never had one of these and there has been so much posted about them in the past 13 years, I guess that my "brands" have run together. I did have a long conversation many years ago with the folks at Lambert. They were in hard times and the Lambert was very expensive. I THOUGHT it was out of business....but maybe not. The Amp-L-Start is still there and was a much lower priced competitor.
However, the comments and the explanation of the how they work still stand. I used the same language and explanation that I got about how they worked from Lambert. They do "STEAL" Power and left unchecked or uncontrolled, they will eventually drain down, I think the system.
In the OP's case, he as very expensive Li Batteries that will not take well to total Discharge.
As to the Blue Seas ML-ACR, that is a great system. Van Williams did extensive research and has a great article here on it. It is more expensive and require more knowledge and also more labor to install. There is some heavy duty cabling that has to be created. However, the main problem, to get full benefit from it is the multiple wire NEW harness that must be run from wherever the OLD Boost solenoid is to the Cabin and then rewiring of the Boost Switch (or perhaps replacing). The existing Monaco circuitry, at least on the ones that I have looked at, do not have enough "leads or conductors", so you run a new harness.
Myself and some savvy Dynasty owners have evaluated and decided NOT to change it out. BUT we already have BIRD charging.
That is the Caveat that must be stated.....it works great on old systems.....and is obviously better than what was installed.
BUT....the CONCERN (Danger?) is that with the Lithiums that the OP has, it might not functrion or prevent damage.
THAT is why I suggested a 120 VAC powered pulsing maintainer. Then the Low Voltage Cut Off can be set to keep the Inverter from draining down the Lithiums and damaging them
Thanks for the correction on the "branding" of Lambert and Amp-L-Start
You say a battery maintainer for the chassis battery needs to be at least a 1.75-2 amp one. Why is that. I have a 1 aml Battery Minder that I was thinking of using. Would that not work?
Ed
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23 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:
My search found
Monaco and HR Twins posted by you.
Thanks. Found it.
I have a good memory……………it’s just short.
Ed
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Yes but it’s dependent on the search terms you use. Evidently I’m not using the right ones.
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OK, I’ve used every search term I can think of but to no avail. Can someone give me a list of Monaco lines versus their corresponding Holiday Rambler models. I promise I’ll save it this time.
Ed
‘05 HR Ambassador -
12 minutes ago, Bob Wightman said:
I had the same problem with my switches on my 04 Monaco Knight. I just ordered replacement switches from RVA and replaced all of them. Super easy to do,. and you don't have to remove the panel. All you do is use a small flat blade screwdriver to get under the edge of the switch and it will just pop out, transfer the wires onto the new switch in the same order as removed and snap it back in...DONE, now repeat for the other switches.
Do you have a web address or other contact info for RVA?
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My leveling control panel switches have stated to stick so it’s difficult to just do short taps. I have to physically return them to the neutral position after activating them. I plan to pull the control panel out and inspect it. Is there a good lubricant to shoot on the underside of the switches?
Ed
‘05 HR Ambassador
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Our shower is slow to drain. When showering it fills to almost my ankles. What is best way to clear it? I don’t know it it’s the P-trap as I read it may also have something to do with a vent through the roof. I also read not to push a physical device to the P-trap as it may have a membrane to stop odors.
Ed
’05 HR Ambassador -
Ok, problem solved. Had a mobile RV tech come and in ten minutes found the problem. It was a resettable fuse or CB just downstream from the battery cutoff switch. Image attached.
Thanks for everybody’s advice. I will bypass the salesman switch soon, add a DCDC charge connection for the lithiums and possibly an Amp-L-Start to keep the chassis batteries charged.
One more question at the risk of thread drift. One thing I learned is my leveling leg activating switches are sticking. I need to take it out of the console and clean it. What kind of spray lube should I use?
Thanks again,
Ed
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2 hours ago, saflyer said:
I did not have voltage to any of the posts on the salesman solenoid, large or small. Here is an image of the battery bay. BTW, that is where the boost solenoid is. Testing from the positive of the house batteries, red arrow, to the negative junction, yellow arrow, gives 13.4v. So the disconnect switch and batteries are good. From that junction it looks like the negative cable goes in the back wall and comes out I know not where.
Also, the battery boost switch is disconnected. I could use jumper cables between the house snd chasdis batteries fir your test.
Is the rear run bay the battery bay?
So, where do the positive and negative cables go from the battery bay to the front run bay? Does the positive one run uninterrupted there. I know where it comes in to the front run bay. What about the negative cable? Does it run uninterrupted. I know TC said there are some big fuses somewhere along one of the lines but where? I can’t identify it at the FRB OCB.
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54 minutes ago, saflyer said:
I did not have voltage to any of the posts on the salesman solenoid, large or small. Here is an image of the battery bay. BTW, that is where the boost solenoid is. Testing from the positive of the house batteries, red arrow, to the negative junction, yellow arrow, gives 13.4v. So the disconnect switch and batteries are go. From that junction it looks like the negative cable goes in the back wall and comes out I know not where.
Also, the battery boost switch is disconnected. I could use jumper cables between the house snd chasdis batteries fir your test.
Is the rear run bay the battery bay?
What are the chances my 12v problems have anything to do with my leveling jacks not extending. I just tried the jacks and what I could hear above the low bag pressure warning was a click around the dash area.
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2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:
Bare metal “stuck” with a pointed meter lead is pretty good….if the voltage was low and you were comparing….maybe a better ground.
You have an UPSTREAM issue….as in….No POWER to the House Stud on the PCB (Printed Circuit Board) or the board in the picture,
ONE FINAL TEST….start the engine. Wait about 5 minutes. Have your wife hold ON the Battery Boost Switch. Then go to the PCB and check for Voltage to the right Stud or the terminal where that cable goes and the black cable is connected. If you have 12 VDC or maybe closer to 13 or higher….Your House Bank is dead or discharged. The Boost solenoid, SHOULD NOT HAVE BEEN DISCONNECTED as removing the House Bank. Assuming That was left intact, the boost solenoid will connect them….and the alternator is putting out 13.5 or so volts. If STILL no power…..then read on….
with the engine running, put an automotive jumper cable between the chassis (starting) and House (Lithium). Then you should have power. If that works, you lithium has isses….no matter WHAT the inverter says. No joy….you have to read on….
I saw the better picture. The stud on the LEFT (solenoid) says House Switched….as in CONTROLLED by the Salesman Solenoid, Trace the cable from the stud on the Right…..House NOT SWITCHED. The cable coming in, I assume without your prints, is what is bringing power INTO or TO the PCB….and it has to come from the rear. You need to start with the House Batteries. If, as I suspect, you have a House Disconnect Battery Switch….then trace the positive from your House Bank. Use any shiny metal ground….like you did up front. The main house positive goes to the switch….then to a Buss. There will be fuses…big ones. One is the cable that goes up front….somewhere you have a loose or bad connection
I did not have voltage to any of the posts on the salesman solenoid, large or small. Here is an image of the battery bay. BTW, that is where the boost solenoid is. Testing from the positive of the house batteries, red arrow, to the negative junction, yellow arrow, gives 13.4v. So the disconnect switch and batteries are good. From that junction it looks like the negative cable goes in the back wall and comes out I know not where.
Also, the battery boost switch is disconnected. I could use jumper cables between the house snd chasdis batteries fir your test.
5 hours ago, Dr4Film said:Not sure but most coaches have it in the Rear Run Bay.
I am not familiar with the layout of your 05 Ambassador.
Posting a photo of your RRB would help.
Is the rear run bay the battery bay?
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40 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:
Yes….that is the battery switch. Did you pull the fuse out of the holder that is hidden behind the black cable. If it is bad….no click. Try that…. If it doesn’t click than you are going to have to do some trouble shooting…
There is PROBABLY a ground on the PCB. But….do it the old fashioned way. There are hinges on the bay door. They screw directly into the chassis. With the point of a meter lead, scratch the head of a hinge screw….then the other lead on the terminals will measure voltage.
NOW….I think you may have larger issues….but here is one more test. Use the GROUND (screw…or even scrape off a little paint to bare metal on the chassis). Use that as a ground. Put the other meter lead (using dc volt scale) on ONE of the small control terminals. If you have voltage, then test the other. Should not have voltage….then tell your wife to turn it off. Each time she pushes it UP or Down, one of the terminals will voltage…the other one NOT.
if you don’t have voltage….then there is an issue….you have GOT to have 12 VDC on both the large terminals for power inside the Coach…
The fuse is good. There is 0 voltage to either large posts on the side of the solenoid. I used the frame around the bay door for ground. Of course that may not be a good ground. Any other options for ground in that area.
Also, what is PCB?
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18 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:
Yes….if you had moved the black cable to provide a cleaner shot, there is probably a fuse there. Did you measure voltage? You MUST have 12 VDC to Ground on BOTH sides or the larger terminals. The power is coming in from the left side (read the label on the big PCB) and the. The solenoid provides power to the other terminal (looks like the one with the other black cable).
If you have incoming voltage to the left cable and on the right one….then there is a problem downstream and you are going to have to pull prints and figure it out.
BUT voltage on one side and none on the other…the contacts are burned up inside. Move one wire or cable to another and bolt or fasten them together.
BUT….no incoming voltage of the LEFT side….the time to find your batteries. Odds are…there is a large ANL fuse (Google it), probably a Bussmann…. It is bolted to a large copper buss. There may be several others. That is the main upstream fuse….maybe 80 or 100 amps. You can look and see the fusible link. Blown! That is it. Do NOT replace with any cheap ANL. Get an “ignition protected” ANL. I carry spare BUSSMANN ANL….The cheaper ones don’t last.
that’s as far as I can go…
To check voltage on each side of solenoid what should I use for ground lead if my meter?
I don’t see any solenoid for the battery boost system but I know there is one.
Salesman switch image included. I believe it gives 12v to coach when pushed in at top and disconnects when slider is pushed down and switch pushed in at bottom. Correct? My wife cycled it a few times with no click sound at solenoid.
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34 minutes ago, saflyer said:
Having a brain hitch. Where is the rear run bay?
I’ll note also that the Magnum remote for the inverter is working and shows batteries charging.
The house batteries are being charged by solar as well.
If the CO and propane alarms don’t test I assume that rules out the salesman switch, according to my understanding of the manual.
I tested for continuity across what I believe is the salesman switch solenoid, the black cylinder in the lower left of the image. Checked between the large posts on either side. It showed continuity. It also has a fuse that is good.
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28 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:
Not sure but most coaches have it in the Rear Run Bay.
I am not familiar with the layout of your 05 Ambassador.
Posting a photo of your RRB would help.
Having a brain hitch. Where is the rear run bay?
1 hour ago, saflyer said:Yes on the Intellitec Smart EMS and no 12v devices work anywhere including the propane detector. The main switch panel where the tank level test, water heater, slide operation switches are located is inactive except for chassis battery voltage test. The roof air control panel has no power either.
I checked the salesman switch. I believe it is reset by pulling out on the bottom of it, am I correct? (At one time years ago I intended to eliminate it if it used power to stay closed but eventually decided it didn’t draw from the batteries so I left it operational. Wish I hadn’t.) I cycled the house battery disconnect and checked it for continuity. It’s good.That’s what I know so far.
I’ll note also that the Magnum remote for the inverter is working and shows batteries charging.
13 hours ago, saflyer said:My house batteries are not charged from the alternator. I disconnected that function when I installed lithium batteries. Will be adding a DCDC charger in the future. The house batteries are being charged from AC through the charger/inverter. It indicates charging correctly.
The house batteries are being charged by solar as well.
21 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:Not knocking your statements, but the Intellitec EMS that monitors your 120 VAC power and sheds the AC loads is not, any way, shape, form or manner connected to the Inverter. The Intellitec EMS is located behind the cover of your main AC panel where the circuit breakers are. It has a single communications line to the EMS a remote…which is probably mounted near the Inverter remote. The EMS remote is totally DUMB. It does have one “task” it can perform. You can push the 20 Amp button and toggle it between 30 amps and 20 amps depending on the source of your power.
The correct way to reset the Intellitec EMS is to KILL the 12 VDC house power to the printed circuit board. Disconnect the battery or turn off the house battery or turn OFF the Salesman Switch or remove the cover (AC off) and unplug the connectors and pull the 3 amp fuse. That usually works.
The telephone cables that are connected to your inverter are for the remote and probably the Battery Temperature sensor. This is generic for all the inverters that Monaco installed with a remote monitor. On the Magnums, with an AGS, there will be 3 cables. That is strictly communication like the cables from a monitor or a printer to a PC.
Maybe on the fuse, but not likely. When there is no 12 VDC in the system and/or the Salesman Switch is off and/or a defective Salesman switch solenoid, there will be no 12 VDC to the Intellitec EMS. It will be dead. The AC outlet are fed from the Inverter. The HVAC will not work as the 12VDC Powers the controllers in each so the Thermostat has no power.
If the CO and propane alarms don’t test I assume that rules out the salesman switch, according to my understanding of the manual.
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28 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:
Bypass the Battery Disconnect Solenoid(s) and you should be good to go!
It won't happen again.
Where are they and what do they look like?
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59 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:
"No EMS Indication", I am assuming you are referring to the Intellitec EMS System that sheds load when hooked to shore power less than 50 amps.
That EMS is powered by your 12 VDC system. I would assume that you don't have ANY 12 VDC available to any devices, correct? If you do, then i would check the fuse on your EMS control board to see if it has blown.
If not, then you need to look at your 12 VDC Battery Disconnect Solenoid providing that you didn't accidently hit the "Salesman Switch" by mistake.
Yes on the Intellitec Smart EMS and no 12v devices work anywhere including the propane detector. The main switch panel where the tank level test, water heater, slide operation switches are located is inactive except for chassis battery voltage test. The roof air control panel has no power either.
I checked the salesman switch. I believe it is reset by pulling out on the bottom of it, am I correct? (At one time years ago I intended to eliminate it if it used power to stay closed but eventually decided it didn’t draw from the batteries so I left it operational. Wish I hadn’t.) I cycled the house battery disconnect and checked it for continuity. It’s good.That’s what I know so far.
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My house batteries are not charged from the alternator. I disconnected that function when I installed lithium batteries. Will be adding a DCDC charger in the future. The house batteries are being charged from AC through the charger/inverter. It indicates charging correctly.
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Edit. Revised Topic title to state the issue more clearly. End of edit.
We came back from a day at the beach to find none of the 12v lights or devices work. All 120v items like lights and microwave work. The surge suppressor shows power from each leg of the 50a shore power. The EMS panel doesn’t have any lights illuminated but, like I said, all 120v outlets work. Is there some main 12v fuse that may have blown?
Earlier in the day we had a problem with the leveling jacks. I was going to adjust them. The front jack switch stuck in the extend position and might have gone to it’s limit. After retracting it some none of the legs would extend, only retract. When I try to get any of the legs to extend I hear some sound from the lower front electrical bay and at the hydraulic pump but not the sound of its running. Could there be a connection.Ed
‘05 HR Ambassador -
On 6/9/2022 at 1:03 PM, 1nolaguy said:
I you search the posts you will find many concerning replacing A/Cs with lots of options and suggestions. As to the specific question of going from 13.5 to 15K btu, this is often done, especially by those that camp often in southern states in the summer. Fit is generally not an issue. Make sure you a/c wiring can handle the energy demand of the larger unit you are considering. Usually if your current A/C system is protected by a 15 amp circuit breaker and the new A/C is designed to also be protected by a 15 amp circuit breaker you are OK for the switch.
This brings up two questions. What are the manufacturer options for replacement A/Cs? Mine are Dometic Penguin ducted heat pumps. Dometic and Coleman are options, I believe. I think there are at least two new manufacturers, Furrion and one other that I can’t remember the name of. Do they all have the same footprints and attachment design? Has there been any improvement in noise levels from any of the manufacturers? When I need to replace mine I’d like to upgrade to 15k, also.
Ed
‘05 HR Ambassador -
40 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:
I would suggest purchasing replacement AC covers from ICON Direct as their covers are indestructible and 100& resistant to UV Sun rays and deterioration.
Make sure to order ones with holes if your original one had the ventilation holes. That is a choice by clicking the square box.
Air Conditioner Shrouds | AC Shrouds | RV Air Conditioner Covers (icondirect.com)
My original Dometic shrouds didn’t have holes. Should I replace them with shrouds with holes or possibly drill holes in mine for more efficiency? Or don’t they have holes for a reason?
Living room sewer smell
in Water Systems
Posted
I’d like to know more about this problem. We dump and then have the sewer smell for some time. I reasoned it was because our toilet flush doesn’t seal well and after dumping the residual feces was no longer covered by water. After several flushes the smell went away. Just my reasoning.
Now the information in this post suggests these vents. I’m not sure but my guess is these are at the top of pipes next to and attached to the sink and shower drain lines where the p-traps are. Am I correct? If so, since that is the gray water system how is that related to sewer smell?
Ed
‘05 HR Ambassador