saflyer
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Posts posted by saflyer
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On 1/30/2024 at 1:33 PM, Rocketman3 said:
Issue#7 - monitoring. The old 4 led battery monitor will no longer work. You should have a shunt based battery monitor. I use a Victron BMV712 (or Smartshunt), Magnum also has a shunt.
Good Luck
Magnum shunt needs to be the one that works with lithium. The original ones did not. Lithium ones model number ends in “-L”.
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On 12/10/2019 at 9:51 AM, jacwjames said:
Where is the best source for the Lifepo4 battery. I did a quick search and only found them in 12 volt. What size do you recommend.
I will have to replace my old batteries soon and looking for options. I can buy 4 AGM from Sams for ~$160 this month.
What amp hours and voltage are the Sam’s? I assume 6v.
On 12/12/2019 at 11:22 AM, jacwjames said:I have a RC7 Xantrex inverter, will this be capable of charging the lithium battery? I checked the manual and it has 3 settings, Gel Cell, Lead Acid, and AGM. Which setting would work.
I was contemplating adding extra batteries to better handle the additional load of the new Samsung RF18 I just installed. This might be a better overall solution considering the existing space and weight savings.
Does the Xantrex have the ability to input custom charging? Using a non-lithium profile can work but might only change to 80% of the lithium’s capability. Plus as I understand it you MUST disable equalization charging. It will destroy lithiums. Worth a call to Xantrex for their input.
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On 10/20/2023 at 10:27 AM, Larry Laursen said:
There is one common beeper for several alarms, so the sound will come from the same place. You need to replace the Nason switch.
Here is the part number: SM-1C-66R/WP28 by NASON - Buy or Repair at Radwell - Radwell.com
It's mounted under the arm rest consol on the park brake valve. You can access through the cup holde.
I wish I had a cup holder in the left side console. The one in the drawer in the center console is a stretch while driving.
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19 hours ago, cbr046 said:
This might help. Just ignore the colors.
This is mine. At least six wire all of which are white and only three labeled. Behind my abilities. Took it to the shop.
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7 hours ago, cbr046 said:
You can take it apart, too. Bend the two tabs on sides and everything comes apart. *AND* (the best part) it'll go back together again!
- bob
Got the switch out. There are far more wires than I expected. They are all white and only a couple labeled and they were for panel dimming. Oh well, it’s off to the shop we go.
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On 2/21/2024 at 10:02 AM, saflyer said:
Can you be more specific about the location of the button? Is it on the part of the switch behind the dash? I have a very limited view of it there due to the left vent hose obstructing the view. I could remove the hose but am afraid this will just introduce new problems. Doing it mostly by feel now.
Success. Got the light switch out. Now to test it.
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7 minutes ago, cbr046 said:
Headlight switch knob removal -
In my case it wasn't the switch, but after fiddling with several harnesses the lights mysteriously started working. I couldn't find any suspect connections . . . .
Or in your case maybe it is the switch . . .
- bob
Thanks. Very useful. Mine is slightly different as to the nut that holds it to the dash. Shouldn’t be a problem. I’ll go back out and try to locate the button again.
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23 minutes ago, Frank Bergamo said:
The switch has a button on it to release the knob. Wiggle the knob as you press the button and it should pop out. Hope this helps, good luck!
Can you be more specific about the location of the button? Is it on the part of the switch behind the dash? I have a very limited view of it there due to the left vent hose obstructing the view. I could remove the hose but am afraid this will just introduce new problems. Doing it mostly by feel now.
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12 hours ago, Dwight Lindsey said:
Rotate your headlight switch to the off position
Interesting. I was rotating the switch to see if there is a set screw or some such to remove the knob. I need to do that to remove the switch since my headlights don’t work, bright or dim. I only have parking lights. So that brings up the subject of how to remove the switch. I can access the back of the switch by removing the cover of the dash but need to remove the knob to remove the switch. How is this accomplished.
Am I approaching this correctly or should I troubleshoot elsewhere first? Is there a good source for the switch? I have heard it’s an old standard that should be available at any auto parts store.
BTW, thanks Tom for going easy on me.
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Went to the coach tonight. The two lights under the TV console were on. Nobody remembers turning then on. I tried to tap them off but no luck. Operating on battery power. Since they are both behaving the same way it must be a system problem. Where should I look short of disconnecting the house batteries?
Ed
2005 HR Ambassador -
On 12/12/2019 at 11:22 AM, jacwjames said:
I have a RC7 Xantrex inverter, will this be capable of charging the lithium battery? I checked the manual and it has 3 settings, Gel Cell, Lead Acid, and AGM. Which setting would work.
I was contemplating adding extra batteries to better handle the additional load of the new Samsung RF18 I just installed. This might be a better overall solution considering the existing space and weight savings.
Does the inverter have a costume charging option? And I think you need to be able to disable the equalize function. Lithiums can’t tolerate it.
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I go through this every year. For years I never winterized at my home in Oklahoma. My coach is stored in a somewhat insulated hangar in the back yard. My neighbor, who had lived next door for many years before we moved there told me he never winterized. We try to avoid it since we usually leave for an extended trip in late January. That was good until about three years ago when near or below zero temps were forecast for several days. I broke down and winterized with air. Was glad I did as the hangar got down to 17°F one night.
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I have the same concern at home. When we leave for an extended trip I turn the water heater off at the street for fear of leaks and flooding in the house. A little concerned though since it is in the attached garage and there is a very remote chance it freeze.
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Atwood electric/propane heater. Just thinking an RV could be put in long term storage with an electrical hookup and forget to turn off the electrical water heater.
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Curious if the water heater element can be damaged if the water is shut off with the heater running? IOW will the hot water evaporate out and not be replaced from the source. Or with no faucets open is it a closed enough system to not evaporate out?
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2 hours ago, lonrhodes said:
Not different technologies but different frequency spectrums. Lower freq bands like 600 mhz cover a large area but bandwidth is lower compared to higher frequencies like 2.5 gigahertz. Also, at 600/700/700 mhz bands the speeds you'll see are similar to 4G LTE. The lower bands are used for broad rural coverage.
The higher 2.5 ghz signal covers a smaller footprint but allows a lot more bandwidth which translates to higher speeds both upload and download.
Even higher frequencies (millimeter wave) , have basically a city block (or less) coverage but can allow super fast speeds in excess of 1 gigabit, comparable to fiber. This is used in dense metro areas and stadiums because the range is very limited but the performance is incredible.
Good info.
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7 hours ago, saflyer said:
Therein is part of the problem, as far as I know none of these modems have options for external and preferably roof mounted antennas so finding a good spot in your home is key. I’m right on the ragged edge of T-Mobile home internet service and all of the usable locations in my house have a building limiting line of site to the tower. It works but could be better. A roof antenna would solve the problem. I saw some YouTube videos about making your own external antenna attachment but it was way beyond my ability. Recently a T-Mobile customer service person hinted an external antenna model is available. I’ll have to check that ou.
As an aside my modem drops its connection to the tower and has to be rebooted manually. Not good if, like me you use the service for your home security system while on a trip. Midway through out last trip that happened and we had no home security for the rest of the trip.
Just read on another RV site that T-Mobile does have a gateway with an external antenna connection. Supposedly you just call T-Mobile and they will trade them out, no charge. We’ll see and hopefully it won’t have the signal drop problem i currently have.
m I currently have.
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1 hour ago, lonrhodes said:
I work for T-Mobile independent retailer. Here are a few things I've learned about the Home Internet program over the last 2 years.:
#1) they use the same towers for home internet as well as cellular phones.
#2) Home Internet devices are designed to use "excess capacity" and are lower in priority than wireless phones.
#3) The home internet terms of service state that router is designed to be used at the location provided at sign up. Although no one that I know of has ever had an issue as long as there is either 4G or 5G T-Mobile signal available. This could change in the future.
#4) We have a list of customers whose address didn't qualify one day but we check them once a week. Eventually when service is expanded, a new tower goes up or a tower site is upgraded to take advantage of new spectrum their address will qualify.
Her is a link to a 1 minute video segment that should explain the what and why of the program. This clip is from their Q3 2023 financial call. This is how they qualify an address for unlimited data. T-Mobile home internet strategy:
https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxJ04ED9nOJMScHpsC0X0pXP_hg3IcSHke?si=TQZlEGn4zbsiak-o
Are there two different technologies for 5G? One that uses a large tower and broadcasts over a relatively large area and another that uses small antennas mounted on streetlight height poles and each antenna has a range of only blocks, if that?
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On 12/1/2023 at 9:40 PM, DBRV.0 said:
There must be a reason, such as they believe your location will result in poor reception, thus you will "send it back". I was in a similar situation, then towers popped up that changed the status. There must be line-of-sight between antennas, yours and theirs, and it cannot be a long distance. If you have a cell phone of a provider, and that works, I would expect it likely that they would make Home Internet available. Check out websites that might show cell towers, then determine if the distance is great or something (like a hill/mountain) exists between you and their tower(s). With a quick search, I found antennasearch.com as an example.
FWIW, I have Verizon LTE Home Internet. When I first purchased it a few years ago, I found that there was not a place inside my home that had a strong enough signal for the unit to connect. I tried everything. In contrast, my cell phone worked reliably in 75% of the space indoors, so I implemented "wifi calling" on my phones to make calls work. My issue was that foil on my [custom] house wall and roof sheathing degraded signals. Out of frustration, I put the LTE unit on my balcony floor where it could "see" the blinking-light cell tower. That worked and I got 35MB down. It's not supposed to be a weather proof unit, but I had no choice and it sat out there for years. I now have that unit sitting above the passenger seat of my Monaco, and I get 55MB down, but I am currently stationary.
Therein is part of the problem, as far as I know none of these modems have options for external and preferably roof mounted antennas so finding a good spot in your home is key. I’m right on the ragged edge of T-Mobile home internet service and all of the usable locations in my house have a building limiting line of site to the tower. It works but could be better. A roof antenna would solve the problem. I saw some YouTube videos about making your own external antenna attachment but it was way beyond my ability. Recently a T-Mobile customer service person hinted an external antenna model is available. I’ll have to check that ou.
As an aside my modem drops its connection to the tower and has to be rebooted manually. Not good if, like me you use the service for your home security system while on a trip. Midway through out last trip that happened and we had no home security for the rest of the trip.
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On 12/1/2023 at 3:34 PM, Just Jim said:
same here with the T mobile wireless. It is easy to use and fairly cheap. I have T mobile phones so I had a good idea of the coverage in my area.
That’s the issue, coverage. I wonder if the towers that home 5G internet uses are special ones different from the cellphone system. I’ve used T-Mobiles service identifier where you put in an address to find if that location has home internet available. Many times it returns a negative response but I am able to use my T-Mobile phone there. Might be a crapshoot getting home internet service in any given location.
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4 minutes ago, Jim McGarvie said:
What is the new solution from Renogy? I don't see a link.
Oops:
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This is a new solution from Renogy. I’ll be adding two more solar panels to my current 6 so will need a second charge controller. I’ve been thinking of a DCDC charger. Could this be a good solution. My eyes start to roll when I read all of thfeatures so if anyone can help please do.
Oops, left the link off originally:
Ed
‘05 HR Ambassador -
11 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:
Inverter/Charger. We typically refer to them as the inverter as, with AGM & Flooded, they were dual purpose and every class A DP MH had the combo units. GELs or Lithium changed the playing field and some I/C did (do) not have the correct charging profiles.
That is a generic statement….AND some of the Gassers may not have had a charger and they had a “voltage converter”….usually low wattage and not an inverter.
So, for all practical purposes here, the term Inverter is synonymous with an I/C.
Thanks. It helps to always spell out terms before using acronyms and abbreviations.
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On 11/13/2023 at 9:00 AM, 1nolaguy said:
Not sure about your set up. I have 4-100 AHr LFP batteries and they are charged from my I/C ( Aims PICOGLF3K12050BY). I have had this set up for 3 years now with no real issues related to battery charging. Based on the settings I selected charge from the I/C cuts off at 95% SOC and cuts on at 10% SOC. I charge whenever connected to shore or on genny but you could easily add/substitute solar via a charge controller. A DC-DC charger would only be needed if you also wanted to charge from your alternator. LFP batteries like to be cycled verses held at a full charge. I usually run the inverter while driving to discharge the batteries and help with teh cycling as we spend most time at CG with full hook ups. YMMV
What is an I/C?
Ed
‘05 HR Ambassador
Lithium Batteries
in Batteries
Posted
With solar I find I don’t need alternator charging since I only drive in the daytime and the panels keep the batteries charged even while running the residential refrigerator. So didn’t bother with DCDC charger.