Ivan K

If the spare bundle is documented in wiring diagram for that coach, chances are good it is there. The colors and gauges including a shielded pair are exactly as in the diagram and it included branching distance front to rear.

If there is an actual code for a Stop Engine light, it should stay written in the ECM history to be retrieved pretty much for ever, short of replacing the ECM.

Our 2k Sig had a bundle of 8 wires in front passenger corner of the engine room. As on the rail beside bellhousing. From there I toned them out to behind center dash. Plenty long to reach back to the hitch and anywhere on the dash.

Have you tried the local salvage places around Phoenix?

I went to look at mine and after cutting some zipties and taking out 4 bolts through the floor (one of them problematic but doable with an extension), it would have enough clearance to just slide out? Enough to get to the motor without even disconnecting from EMS. I would pull the heavy cord out to get rid of it's weight. Depends on where they installed it in your rig.

There's no formula, final setting is a trial and error at the scales, no one knows your payload weight distribution. Mine is at 47 psi but I know to get on the scales again as stuff was added and moved. Your manual would have the stabization procedure.

2 minutes ago, Preston W said:

Thanks very much.I just heard back from the first body shop and they said thirty thousand dollars just to begin. Incredible.

I think that is reasonable, got about the same quotes +/- 3k five years ago and the visible fiberglass damage was less than yours but included a windshield. Settled at 27K check to do it in my shop. But I located the cleanup company (next day after asking the cop, when I calmed down) and retrieved the pieces, it wasn't too hard to reconstruct using the old shapes. Junk yards would only sell a complete cap at a crazy cost. Just labor was estimated at ~14K in the final appraisal by a third party pro. And thats years back. Good luck which ever way it goes.

Malcolm, I had the same factory configuration. If you can sacrifice one or both of the inaccurate gauges, you would have a great place for shunt monitor(s). I just reused wires that were originally used for tank monitoring when replaced by Seelevel. Took some effort and rewiring but it is all in one place now. The old RV30 is now only charging chassis batteries. 

Sorry to see what happened to you and glad that it wasnt worse. I was in a similar situation few years back. If you consider repairing it whether insurance approves or not, I would suggest collecting the fiber pieces. It makes recontructing the corner and shaped parts much easier, I have been there. Metal parts could be reskinned or replaced. Best of luck!

A real Hadley is more expensive and there are cheaper knockoffs, like $49 on Amazon. A real Hadley would have the name as part of the casting, not printed on it.

I'd say best to take it out and have Napa or a truck parts shop match it. It does not even matter who made it, whatever reputable truck shop will have a good equivalent. Most likely 150 psi rating. It might have a DOT identification on it when you clean it up.

Haha, good point and leave the nuts on few threads or you may not find the cones anymore as they shoot out.

Your belt number 3972375 crosses to Dayco belt 5080840 with following dimensions 

Rib Quantity 8

Top Width 1.10 in

Effective Length 84.06 in

Effective Length 2135.13 mm

Outside Circumference 84.68 in

1 hour ago, Preston W said:

I was thinking the same thing. He had a lot of trouble getting that axle back into the differentiall.  I told my wife I wouldn't even attempt that on the road because our coach is drivable. And  has a  small leak At best. I'd rather monitor the differential oil level on the way back home rather than do this by the side of the road.  If can't get it back together again and you're stuck.!

The only part that requires a little muscle while reinserting the axle, is lifting the far splined end of the axle inside the tube up a little, against gravity, to get it into the female splines. Really not such a big deal. The opening is chamfered and will guide it in. As Ben mentioned, my axles also use centering cones over the studs but this appears to be different design and aparently not enough torque in the video is why the paper seal was pushed out as there would be at least some minor play around those studs. There is no pressure to just push gaskets out. He mentioned 180 lbs, wow, I think I did 90 or so with cones on 1/2" studs. But I have no idea what Alegro is using for supplier. I had my axles out a couple of times to check bearing preload and work on brakes but the NAPA gaskets never leaked. If you need a spare, all that's needed is the circle size and number of holes.

Is it higher than ride hight? If so, travel mode should get it at least that low. If it doesn't get lower after that, I would suspect the 6 pack solenoid or it's connection if air leveling. If not, dump valve.

Possibly plugged exhaust port.

I can't see why just about any autoglass shop couldn't replace a 2 piece front glass if the frame is undamaged. Coach Glass has contract installers all over the place but even if they did not, its not that huge glass and only goes into a rubber gasket, I assume. Depends if it is worth the effort after what you pay to buy it back. Dont know how it works where you are but I did good with totalled vehicles. Have bought back 2 vehicles in the past and because they never went to junk yard, the title remained clean and only needed minor work. Wife went through a barbed fence, insurance totalled the dodge ram with just paint damage and I traded it untouched for more than double. The other needed some sheetmetal and front paint. It was a beautiful black on black, no rust, loaded Town Car Signature for $260! Less than 1k total after repair. Kept it for maybe 8 years as a loaner to my best customers and still sold for 400% profit. Still had under 90k miles on it.

I had a damage similar to what you describe, glass, mirror, step, fiberglass, paint. Got ~27k from insurance to have it fixed on my own. Cost me less than 10k to repair and paid for a bunch of diesel and upgrades. So, it depends.

Just a terminology but a 'saddle' is machined into the yoke and 'straps' are what keeps the ujoint in them. By 'power divider', he had to reference the actual diffential unit with spider gears, inside the pumpkin, and if they were damaged, you should hear and obvious crunching sound. Big motor rigs typically do not use straps and the ujoints are pressed in, making axle removal an easier option. Yes, you were lucky not dropping the front of driveshaft into the ground.

I have broken more than one axle in the day and even though it was a locked axle, there was a definite scary pull to the broken side. No way you could move the rig with only one good axle on our open rear ends. Either way, it is easy to pull and inspect an axle to check the splines if damage was suspected.

Have you checked the clearance tolerance and back-forth of the impeller? I know it sucks but only way to know is to take a look at the intake side of the turbo. It's no VGT and not even a wastegate from the looks of it, simple as it gets as long as it gets oil in those bushings.

Yes, this should also be the only one to fit on the push-on ports.

Funny but just few minutes ago I cleaned couple of similar streaks on ours and I know it isn't a leaking seal. If they had the wheel off, chances are they oiled the lug nut washer and this is what you may be seeing. It is a regular process to oil the washers. If you have doubts,  you could remove the cover cap (if removable) to confirm.

This is what our looked like before I dumped it, right on the hose hookup, partially behind the cover. These are trash and internally break down in time.

If you want to calculate the expansion effect, maybe this will be a start. Of course internet is always right but this sounds scientific enough for a start:

...fiberglass lay-up will be somewhere around 8 micro inches/inch per deg F.  Correspondingly, for stainless steel it is about 25 percent higher and for aluminum, about 70 percent higher....so stainless steel is much closer

With my non-scientific calculation over a 100F swing, fiberglass might expand 0.19" over 20 feet, stainless 0.24" and aluminum 0.33"...so evaluate the delta from an installation temperature.

So the new smaller bolts will rattle in their brackets and elongate the holes? I would look for bushings to fill the difference but my top eyes go on a stud welded through the frame rail.

Interesting. My new Bilsteins came with the sleeves separate, like if they were an option to install or not. Since my old shocks had the sleeves, I pressed them in and used the new ones just like the originals. Exact fit but that's few years ago and my shocks have eyes on both ends.