Ivan K

I am with Mike on this, I only carry few things based on my previous failures. A couple of good used belts, fuel filter and pair of brushes just because I have them for next time. I also have a set of those 'special' Injector pump orings because they failed on our last trip and I ordered extras. Our 3LD1 pumps had PITA penta bolts that I replaced for regulars to save myself a hustle on the road. I haven't heard of anyone else having leaks at those pumps on a generator but 2 of mine did, at around 4k hours.

Worst case, there are some decent looking 10k rotors on ebay, like this one for $400 which is a fraction of cummins price and looks great. Just need to confirm the fitment. Also complete rotor/stator pair for not much more.

https://tinyurl.com/54pyhmaa

That format does not work on any of my android Samsung tablets and phone so I just skip them. I bet there is an app for it but I got too many already.

Well, that's a bummer, Don. I bought mine in 2018 from Reliable Industries in Luisiana but they don't have it listed anymore now when I looked. I know Eurton Electric in CA rewinds rotors/stators and might possibly have some stashed? They did my stator and it was a quick turnaround when Cummins could not get them, for a lot cheaper too.

If it really is badly flattened, like by dropping the coach over a concrete block at some campground back-in sites, probably easiest repair would be a flexible piece like used on ours. But it is a 5" pipe, a little flatness won't make huge difference.

Blow the dust off to see if there is a hole large enough to pull it through. Yours is totally different from my fitting arrangement...

I have an air operated cover and the only time I could take it out was when I had the door frame removed for a different reason. Some time ago I noticed when the generator was all the way out, there could be an access from below but have not needed to confirm that. It just looked like there could have been an access panel underneath an undercoating, not sure.

Don, word of caution, before disconnecting rotor wires from the collector, measure and mark which ones go to each ring so you get them back the same way. I had 4 connections on the old rings (in the picture) but the new ones come with 2 connections only. I think it is logical to do that but wanted to remind you.

You can download your model specific Onan manuals here

https://www.cummins.com/generators/rv-generators/rv-generator-manuals

I also agree, piecing possibly obsolete parts wouldn't be easy or cheap. I would also look for an axle from same manufacturer as the other axle so the maintenance parts are the same.

In your generator manual should be list like this one.

Don, you need to have access from front of the generator. It is relatively easy access, even better with a slide. I am pretty certain my brush and ring issue (same of the two as yours) was due to desert dust, the whole generator part is cooled by unfiltered air, sucked from a bottom opening. Replace the bearing and it's oring since it has to be pulled anyway. I have done this at about 3500 hrs.

If you have the Norcold refer, the fans get turned on as needed by a thermostatic switch at the top back corner of the box. If you are in a cold weather, it may not have activated yet.

Don, If that ring is too gone to fix with a stone like Brad says, yes that part can be replaced, I have done it myself.

13 minutes ago, Donflem said:

I’m at the Cummins dealer in Reno it looks like I need a new set of slip rings and brush blocks. Stator/rotor they have to order the parts and want $5500 to do it. I’m going to try and find the parts get it done back home they said I can still run it. 

That sounds like a shotgun repair, why would you need rotor/stator to replace the slip rings, makes no sense if it runs.

I personally would remove the window frame since you have to bend it way more than just 1/2" to overcome the 'memory'. Still less trouble than hunting for new glass and taking it out anyway. Even if it doesn't break the glass, might break the seal.

49 minutes ago, dennis.mcdonaugh said:

Thanks!  I Got it back on. What should I torque the bolts to?  The bolts threads are 12 mm with a 10 mm head. I looked up grade 8.8 bolts and it said 65 ft/lbs. I’m pretty sure they weren’t that tight. The next grade on the list was 5.6 and 28 lbs was specified for them. 

My ISM procedure says 40 pounds.

The gasket is still on the block. Just peel it off. 

Tape a magnet to the door frame switch.

Yes, I had to do the same on  a ~30' long connection between tanks. If it was just a short run, i would replace it. Don't understand why some of the lines were cut so short. I used DOT compression fitting so there would not be an other potential leak point. NAPA sells tubing per foot.

There are major differences between models and years. Pictures of the valve, the controls, hvac box above the generator would give you better chance to get answers. I know my system but it could be very different yours. 

33 minutes ago, Georgia Mike said:

Ivan, I was thinking of getting Mudflap but I called there customer service and asked if you pay at the pump and she said you had to go inside to pay. Is that true?

Don, from what I have seen, it depends, in Utah at Mavericks I just punched the code at the pump, some other times I had to go in to show the code so it could be either way. If away from major routes, it still is often the best I could get.

But I only have to go in once, not like old times they would want to hold on to your card until done.

I never had a problem either, sometimes Mudflap is a better option. I only do truck stops. Wish that discounts like the one below came back again...

I don't know what ABS system you have but I learned to trust my error codes, they were always right in my case. If it does not say wheel sensor, it's not it. If it says 'short', I unplug the cable and see if it remains or changes to 'open'. That tells me whether to check the cable or the part.

Nice write-up. I have done the same to our Isuzu couple of years ago and had the same observation and solution to the shroud clearance. I had to do I bit of plastic welding as it had some cracks too. Ours has over 4k hours so I also replaced the collector, brushes and rotor bearing. Couple of the injection pumps had a leak while on the road but only need new orings to stop that.