Ivan K

Unfortunately, it can take time for the tiny leaks to show. I have spent weeks watching the coach in my shop slowly leaking down to one side or an other, reparing and replacing parts for each symptoms. The external leaks are usually easy to find but I now believe rebuilding the valves caused a self inflicted wound to internal plunger seals because it is impossible to get them oriented the same way they were positioned prior to removal. The seats get imprinted in the rubber face and the smallest imperfection gets them to leak, ever so slowly to catch it in a day. Sure, autoleveling would deal with it in most cases but it bothered me enough to not leave it. Even the new valves you can buy are already imprinted. New plungers that never were installed in a spring loaded valve have fixed my issues now. For illustration, blue is a used plunger.

Monaco hasn't even used the same axles on same models the same year as I found in our case. You'll have to get your axle make/model to get correct parts.

My ruptured expansion tank bladder would not cause the pump to constantly run, just like if it wasn't there. A leaky diverter valve returning water back into the tank would certainly do it and cause lower pressure in the system.

Because you mentioned accelerating cures it, I thought of voltage variation or vibrations. I would at least make sure the connection is solid. The pump filter is a good idea too.

Should see stable full voltage with IGN ON. The solenoid could be allowing the internal disk valve to close and you would see the drop in pressure.

I have corrected previous note, the little filter on top of pump is in FRONT of the solenoid valve.

This is where the solenoid is and where to check the voltage. Behind the marked hose in your updated pic.

Looking closer at your last picture, you already have a hose on the test port so that must be for your gauge. That port is past shutoff valve so that makes it even more of a suspect. These arent expensive. The little filter you mentioned is past in front of the test port. If the regulator failed, you would have to open up the pump...

You don't say where the fuel pressure gauge is hooked up but here is how manual pump test is done on ISM, presumably same. Since your pressure drop is intermittent, possibly RPM related, I would look at the shutoff solenoid voltage stability. No idea what the trash in your picture is, you could be right. Assume it isn't even a little magnetic, like rust. 

What version AH do you have? Our fans get power through relays and fuse in Aquahot box but that's an older unit.

Looks like you are 4 screws away from seeing what's hiding and clicking behind it? Just pulling the whole panel a little? 

Don't give up, the last scary incident wasn't even related to motorhoming, would happen regardless. At least you did not need Uber to get back home!

Maybe you don't have the bundle but mine was in this corner of the engine room. I don't think I would have found it looking for it from underneath. It ends with a coiled loop behind center of dash and I had to tone it out to locate.

18 minutes ago, MHRookie said:

The only item I found available is a “new chip” on eBay.  It says it’s installed on a RC7 remote to make it a RC7gs remote…$200.

The new RC7GS was less than that, back then...

When I said 'new remote', I was referring to identical 'new old stock' remote that I acquired in 2016 to replaced the broken one. And yes, AGS is a function of the same remote. Without the remote, inverter can be switched on/off by a manual switch on the box but that's all. Inverter comes back after a reset with previously saved parameters except TOD which disables AGS and there is no way to see or set parms without the remote's display and functioning touch buttons. As far as I know, the new remotes use a bus communication network, not backwards compatible.

There should not be much oil lost if you had to remove the oil filter to gain access, at least not on my engine since most all of it will be in the pan. Just as much as drained when you removed the filter for oil change.

I bet your remote failed. I got curious last night and plugged my old remote in. Display works fine and shows what's expected but leds show battery full which it wasn't, charge light once a while goes to very fast flashing sequence and none of the buttons work like if the reverse communication was out. Checked the board and plug, reseated the eprom, nothing visibly wrong on it. Back to new remote and all works fine. Good luck and pls let us know if you get it repaired, I would not mind to have a working spare if it made financial sense. 

17 minutes ago, Paul J A said:

 

 I ran 105 steer, 95 drive and 85 tag On our 07 Executive Denali IIIR.  WE were full timing, so we were heavy.

I ran 48 psi on the tag down pressure.  

These same pressures work for me too. Our 200 gal fuel tank is 7 feet back from front axle and that makes a difference. 

About the conduit, I have one extra from the front bulkhead, passenger side behind front axle but it only goes to front of rear axle. It is capped and still unused.

Jim, if you have access to rear passenger side frame rail just forward of the engine, about over the bellhousing, I had a spare bundle of 8 wires in their own sleeve, rolled and tied to the other bundles there. These go all the way to the front dash with plenty of extra lenght. I found ours by chance while adjusting valves and wondering what the extra bulge was.

You don't need to drive but deflate all the bags some and let them go back to ride hight.  I think the manual has a writeup on it, it might say to do it couple times up and down. I would have the engine running too in case there are some leaks, so the ride high adjustment is active with plenty of air as if on the road.

Yes, back compatible with Dexron III if you just want to top it of

The regulator pressure should remain steady at which ever preset pressure when the tanks are full, with hwh. That regulated pressure is passed to tag bags through six pack valves in travel mode but there should always be the same regulated pressure to the sixpack ride hight valves. Raising the whole coach will use tank pressure for tags, lifting the tags will deflate the bags and actuate lifting chambers through a separate mac valve. I keep my tag tires at 85 just to keep the bead seated in sharp turns, that's just me.

Just a theory since I do not have an inverter generator. Normally, shutting down due to lack of fuel would throw code 36, i think that is a norm across the diesels.(?) However, with inverter, missing and slowing down of the engine might likely cause drop of output voltage, loaded or not, possible? If that was the case, the expected cause 36 would be masked by your code 13 when the engine is shut down by controller command, and that happens before the engine quits on it own. If the engine is indeed missing, that would be an engine/fuel delivery problem.

Worst case you can try to follow a yellow airline from a front PPV. Not easiest way, of course. All the horn solenoids I have seen had a yellow line coming in.

22 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Ha!

Their asking a bit more from us Canadians 😂!

https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/Dometic-H551916AXX1J0-Air-Conditioner/5HHNXE068LI8?from=/search

Wow, that's some exchange rate!