Ivan K

11 minutes ago, Paul J A said:

Ivan; "It helps big time to temporarily replace a couple of bolts with studs so the manifold slides out and into its place easily." 

Put a coat of a penetrating agent on those threads will help too. Might be able to use air and blow residue out before inserting the bolts used for the manifold installation.

Yes, blowing out the blind holes is always good idea, I did not have to chase the threads since there wasn't any rust and bolts came out nicely but I used a bit of high temp antiseize in case I have to ever do it again. The couple of longer studs (cut of heads of long 10mm bolts) made positioning the gaskets and manifold easy.

Would this one work? From description: cut out dimensions are in the description 13 3/4” x 21 1/2” that is your inside dimensions...

6 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

No help to you now, but, I have fans attached to my covers, so in order to not have to disconnect their wires when I remove the covers, I attached a pair of 12" stainless fishing leaders to each cover.

If mine ever came off, they would be flapping around, but they would stay with the coach!

That's a good idea,  I have a fan there too and plenty of fishing stuff. Have a pic of the attachment?

When I found a leak, I tried to torque the bolts to prescribed 35lbs and they easily turned a quarter of the turn. Of course that did not help so out they went without any problems. Trying to soak the threads was futile, pretty much non of the penetrant made it past the spacers unless the bolts were already backed off a little. And if the manifold needs to be backed out to replace one gasket, pretty good chance that the others get torn up doing it. It helps big time to temporarily replace a couple of bolts with studs so the manifold slides out and into its place easily. Not a bad job, just heavy with the turbo and deep in the hole, nothing like access on a truck.

Still don't know what system you have but with my HWH two ram system, both cylinders are t-ed and share the same valves through synchronizing cylinder on one side. No adjustment there, the only time I had it happening was with a leak and then air in the plumbing. Missing fluid would indicate a leak if that was the case. If air, there are bleeding procedures, somewhat messy. Don't know if you might have a mechanical issue effecting only one direction, I have adjustment nuts on ram pistons but they could not explain 6" difference) however air in extend line would be suspect in my case. Holding the button past retract stop might purge it, maybe.

You seem to be looking for this box. Pretty good size, maybe 10"x6" or so. Mine was behind the center console, with probably 10+lbs of rolled up cables attached to it. All the speaker connections were in one large connector.

10 minutes ago, Indydyne said:

My number 6 cylinder exhaust manifold is leaking at the head. I have a 3 piece exhaust manifold. Is it possible to remove the number 6 manifold and leave the rest installed?

Interesting idea but I doubt it could be wiggled out without loosening all the manifold bolts. Once you have enough space to rotate it a bit, it should come out. It is a machined fit, will depend on the rust but mine was pretty clean in that area.

But then again, once you get the bolts loose and slide the manifold away far enough to just replace the gasket, that would be the way to do it. It is an approved method and #6 is the easiest to clean the old gasket remnants. Don't drop them in the holes.

The cap will be half or less of your test pressure unless stuck and you would be likely having other leaks at that point 

Heater core pressure should not exceed the engine radiator cap rating. You would likely know it it was coolant leaking. Leaky evaporator would be nasty oily. Condensation is a nature of beast.

Has every one of them had to top it off? Is the front side also behind the same when retracting? And what type of hydraulic system is it, assuming it has a synchronizing cylinder?

You should have an other 12v fuse in an interior fuse box. Mine is 2A in a bedroom cabinet fuse box. Good luck, hopefully that easy.

Good for you, Richard. These are the same 'Bendix drain valves' as on ours, except for the location. Don't know what they were smoking when they say to drain daily while installing them directly on the tank...

Do you have to go under to drain the tanks or are they positioned remotely or are you looking for some with the pull line. One day, when I also need to replace, I would consider the remote drain of some kind which I don't have right now, so I'll be watching for recommendations too.

I haven't done it myself yet but you can try this:

2 hours ago, Rob Monda said:

 I am not getting power to the ignitor thru the brown and yellow wire. 

Are checking for that power at the coil or at the controller connector?

1 minute ago, JeffM31 said:

I just have the Monaco book, is this from there?   I think 25 is standard though 

It is from M11 spec document, there should be one for your respective engine. Not sure if in the coach manual.

Your engine manual should have a section similar to our M11/ISM to reference the max limit but I think this is true for most diesels

I was gonna suggest totally bypassing the manifolds and know how to do it on our HWH but Valid may be different in ways I don't know. Still believe it would be doable by connecting bag and ride valve lines at the manifold with some PTC couplers. Effectively making it a coach with no levelin, just for the transport. An other, brainless way, would be to install schrader valve PTC fitting on bag lines and inflate them...

I wish I knew more about Valid leveling but would expect that they incorporated a right hight bypass into their manifolds just as HWH has. Have you looked into it? Someone here would know.

Dont think there's one wit 0-8" H2O but these minders can easily be tested with handheld vacuum pump if in doubt. Typical range for diesels is 25" H2O for an alarm, if so equipped. It is a good practice resetting them once a while, a sudden drop in reading is an indication of a potential trouble just as an increase.

1 minute ago, dl_racing427 said:

My indicator is screwed directly into the intake elbow after the filter.
I have removed it and sucked on it, (don't laugh), and it did move and lock in position.

That's what I did to test ours as well 😀

I don't watch the boost so closely to notice a difference, I just ease off a little when it starts bouncing but it is expected to loose some percentage of power with thinner air, less oxygen per volume at elevation and lower turbo RPM even with density altitude change at the same elevation. 

The house batteries did not turn the starter, they only somehow provided the starter solenoid signal which is minimal.

If your alternator is the Duvac kind and the reference lead gets disconnected because it is past the switch, it will do what it can to get the reference voltage, which is now missing, to where it should be, ~14V. I don't know your coach to tell why is it starting off house but the starter lead does not go through the switch anyway.

Your 2001 may not have the backlight function. Ours doesn't and doesn’t have the often troublesome clock spring either. There just isn't enough leads from the VIP controller to supply power for it but on the positive side, no clock spring to fail...