Dave Pumphrey

Did you check to see if there is power there?

I would use a non contact voltage detector to check for 110 volts, then a voltmeter set to over 120 volts AC, ( probably the 250 scale on most meters).

Then set the meter to DC volts, to see if it is 12-13 volts.

Let us know if you find the answer!

Are you sure they are 6 Gauge?

6 Gauge would be close to the size of a battery cable on a car, they don't look that heavy. I don't know of any audio or video items that would have that heavy of wire. Is there power present? It would likely be 12 volt.

I stand corrected, I was thinking about the 12 volt DC wiring!

18 hours ago, johncvandoren@gmail.com said:

I do plan to upgrade the CB to 50A if I can find some solid copper 6/2+G Romex or direct-bury cable.  Mostly seeing stranded.

I believe you would want stranded wire in a mobile environment due to vibration & movement...

Why would you need an external tuner?

I have a tablo OTA DVR connected to an antenna in the attic at the house, & connected to my cable modem. I can access my local channels & recordings on a firestick anywhere I have an internet connection, even have an app on phone. It has a nice guide to set recordings just like a cable service. 

Digital to analog converter?

You mean like back when DTV came out, we had a converter box to hook up a TV that had the old analog tuner? I didn't think many of those TV's still existed. Got a link to the converter?

16 hours ago, dl_racing427 said:

If I were you, I'd disconnect the relay, and run the engine until it gets a few degrees above normal operating temperature.
If the fan speed increases and controls the engine temp, the wax valve is operating normally.
Whatever is controlling the relay is the problem.
I'd just rewire the trigger to the relay to the A/C compressor clutch circuit, so the fans will go to high whenever the compressor is running, and operate based on the wax valve when not.

I agree with David L!

Just grab it by the end?🤔

9 hours ago, Corgidad said:

Neither circuits feed the Microwave or the Hot Water Heater.

I've never heard of a water heater running on the inverter, it would just be too much draw.

On the other hand, most coaches do have the microwave on the inverter. 

Maybe your inverter is lower wattage thsn average?

PSA!

I keep seeing people talking about heated water hoses lately. 
That might make the hose ok, but does not do anything for either end, or the supply line it is hooked to. Those hydrant faucets that have the lever on top, have a rod going down below the freeze line, & turn the water off there, & also open a valve at the bottom to allow the water to drain out of the above ground part.
This won't happen if a hose is left connected to it, as it won't allow air in to let the water drain. This is why most campgrounds that are open in winter tell you to unhook hose for freezing temperatures. You will be responsible for the cost to replace it. Just fill your internal tank, & unhook the hose.

11 hours ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Just a reminder that the microwave does not have GFCI 

The microwave, & other high draw items don't play well with GFCI's.

A lot of coaches have one leg of the inverter dedicated to the microwave, without a GFCI.

The other leg feeds the rest of the outlets thru a GFCI.

I was asking the OP if his other 120 volt outlets were working on inverter power.

Thats what I'm thinking, maybe too focused on the fridge. 

Will the other outlets & microwave run on the inverter without gen or shore power?

I agree with Ivan, it would have to be a 2nd tuner. As for not getting anything from the king jack, I believe it needs power for it's internal amp, usually provided by the switch plate/ splitter. Possibly a broken center conductor it the coax on the roof. This cable tester would confirm that, as well as sort out which cable goes where. Very handy to have. 

Klein Tools VDV512-101 Explorer 2 Coax Tester Kit, Includes Cable Tester / Wire Tracer / Coax Mapper with Remotes to Test up to 4 Locations https://a.co/13kh3kz

10 hours ago, Jdw12345 said:

To my understanding it’s when I change channels on the TV.

That is really strange. It would have to be in the TV. Can you confirm that when you get a chance? Also sorry for your loss. 

Is this happening by changing channels on the TV's internal tuner, or an external tuner of some sort, IE cable box, etc?

32 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

I hate having to do a channel search, my TVs seem to take for ever, the screen says this may take up to 20 min.  Are some TVs faster than others?

Fortunately my satellite is much faster.

Some are faster than others, I try to remember to select the input & start the scan on both TV'S while I am doing other stuff setting up...

11 hours ago, LakeBob said:

I did determine that the upper "bear claw" latch was not closing to the second position.  I adjusted the striker per the manual, moving it outward as the mount allowed.

If the latch is not closing to the 2nd position, I believe you would need to move the strike in, not out, to allow it to latch to the 2nd position.

It is not closing enough to reach the 2nd lock position.

Find a dingy for your dingy?🤔

Are there plans for the 2023 Gathering?

Thanks

Dave P

Do you have the winegard booster?

It is a wall plate, sometimes has a coax output on the front, also a button that turns on a green light. This is what switches from antenna to cable. It is on cable with the light off, antenna with the light on. I saw someone mention using a splitter to combine cable & antenna, I don't know if that would work, never thought about it. I did replace my bomb, box of many buttons, a year or 2 ago, got it on Amazon. Magnadyne VCS-10 5 input 3 Output... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SWGSESO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

8 minutes ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Do have a somewhere to take your old coolant and flushed water?

Gary 05 AMB DST

Yes, our county, AA in MD, has a drop off station for coolant, motor oil, & cooking oil. 

10 hours ago, Timaz996 said:

Mine holds 12 gal

 

Tim

I was thinking about 12 gallons, thank you.

3 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

!2 gallons is about what my ISC-350 holds to start and then top off from there.

Thank You 

Yes, looking at super tech heavy duty or maybe final change. 

2000 38' Dynasty 8.3, side radiator. 

I have searched, can't find the cooling system capacity. It is not in my manual. 

I am wanting to flush & put in new coolant. 

I plan to flush with distilled water a couple times, then fill with new coolant. 

Trying to figure out how much to have on hand before I start. 

Thanks 

Dave Pumphrey