Dave Pumphrey

You could take the outside cover off the fridge compartment & plug the fridge into an extension cord & see if it works.

Also did you check, as posted above, that it was not accidently put in "demo Mode",

this is what they use in the store that allows the lights to work, but not the cooling.

I heard on another site that the Ramblin Pushers MS 419 is canceled for 2021.

Just went to their site, & confirmed it.

http://www.ramblinpushers.org/

I hope this Covid thing does not take out another year...

10 hours ago, Bobbyboy said:

I have a question relative to the brake test;  what is the difference in doing the test with the engine on vs the engine off.  If you hold the brake with the engine running and the compressor never kicks on, seems to me you can watch to see if you lose any air in the two minute span.  Of course if pressure drops to where the compressor kicks on you know you got problems.  I have performed the test both ways, never lost any air either way.  So what am I missing???  Same with the spring brake.   If engine is running and compressor doesn't come on and you don't lose any air other than what it took to release the spring brake the system should be good, correct?? I have an inquiring mind.  Sorry if I have missed something obvious.

Bob L.. 08 dynasty

 

The engine off is the way the DOT requires it to be done.

Because of this, it is the industry standard.

You are correct you get the same results if you abort the test should the compressor kick in, but then you would have already failed the test.

I agree with Walt, I may be mistaken that it is the drier.

The drier would only blow off at the end of the compressor cycle, with engine running.

Can you post a pic from a bit further back, so we can see location better, Like Walt said.

Some things look similar up close.

The drier would be mounted to the frame by the engine.

1 hour ago, Woody O said:

Here is a photo of the item that exhaust a small amount of air about every 20 seconds and yes, the engine is turned off when running this test.

This is the drier, should only blow off with engine running, after reaching cut out pressure. 

On 12/31/2020 at 11:39 AM, Xlr8ting1 said:

Our coach is not a good boon docker, and craves 50 amps and fresh water like an addict, so seriously off the beaten path places won't work without resources.

Usually not the coach that is not good at boondocking, usually daily habits that need adjusting.

Think Water conservation, power conservation. Plan trip when you won't need A/C, etc...

Just my $.02, ymmv...

I want to add my appreciation for the new site.

Great job to all!

I learned of the group in fall of 2019.

We had planned a week elsewhere in FL, but when I learned of the gathering, wanted to do it instead.

I had trouble finding the details on the old site, & was about to give up when I saw the news of the new site.

I joined right away, & was among the first to register for the gathering on the new site.

We really enjoyed it, & were looking fwd to attending this coming year (2021).

Sorry to see Covid take it out, along with everything else.

Hope it can return next year (2022).

If I am not mistaken, the slobber tube is to the right in your pic.

Because the hose is routed behind the oil filter, we cannot see where it goes.

Maybe a pic from a different angle, so we can see the connection?

A pic of where it connects to the engine would help clarify this...

No I have not found one yet.

If you are going to get rid of it, I would like to buy the frame around the control panel, or the whole panel.

My control panel frame was broken at the top when we got the motorhome 2 years ago.

If I would have glued it, it probably would not have broke at the bottom.

I think I broke the top piece trying to take it apart.

I believe the top piece is still available.

Did this get resolved?

Maybe we should have started with does the coach have seperate turn/ stop lights, & what does the toad have?

The control panel bezel on our Sharp convection microwave has broken into several pieces.

I also broke the "tang" in the center that holds the top vent on, while taking it apart.

The unit still works fine, but a search for a replacement bezel comes up no longer available.

Maybe someone replacing their microwave would sell me this part before throwing it away?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/zhWEmDZb7dfnsZys8

Thank You!

Does anyone know a source for a replacement front turn signal socket for a 2000 Dynasty?

It has tabs on the back that you squeeze to pull the bulb out.

I replaced it with a universal one last year for a trip, & can't find it to take a pic.

I may have to pull the other side out to get a pic.

This is the (I believe) original socket in the other side.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DWpBQqThk8vf5tgC6

It may be broken as well, I see someone has added a ty wrap to it.

I will post a pic when I pull this one out for a better look.

The one I used temporarily does not seal, & when bulb gets wet, it blows out.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/BhnJou2CJLChGCnv7

I'm a little late posting what I did, but it may be helpful to someone else.

I re-purposed the propane line from the nevercold, as I have a residential fridge.

I put a coupler (with a ball valve) in the bay with the access port to run the hose out.

I may extend it a little below the outlet in that bay, but I always turn the ball valve off when not in use.

I removed the regulator from the grill, & replaced it with a  valve without a regulator I got from Amazon.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0024E62CU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It works fine now.

When I first tried the low pressure on the fire pit, (it was for high pressure), it had a very low flame.

There was a small orifice in a brass fitting on it, so I removed it, & put my coupler right on the tube to the burner. 

It now works fine on the low pressure supply. It may not burn as high as on high pressure, but it is sufficient for me.

Probably uses a lot less propane now as well.

See pics here.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Bn79QUuuLn8tDhga9

On 5/26/2020 at 10:51 AM, Chargerman said:

Great folks here. I joined in December when the site transferred off of Yahoo. Didn’t visit much prior to that because I found the Yahoo site too difficult for me to work with. The folks did a terrific job migrating over to here and I enjoy participating. Glad you made it over also. 

I also tried to participate on Yahoo, but like you, found it too difficult to follow.

The move to this new site was just in time for me to get enough info to attend the Gathering at Lazy Days this past Feb.

7 hours ago, cpat_39 said:

Our 2000 Diplomat had carpeting in front and tile in kitchen bath area. Shop in OR took out a swath of tile wide enough to run Skil saw set at correct depth down the swath. Tiles were mounted on second piece of particle board and once split they were fairly easy for him to remove. The Living Room slide had to be raise to allow that piece to pull out from under kitchen counter. Toilet had to be removed to lift that section out. By removing tile and particle board he then had one level of decking to install the vinyl planking. 

Couple of pictures attached to show tile/particle. board and finished floor. 

Company is Kustom Coach Works - Junction City OR. Owner is Bobby Vodden.

Pat 
2000 Diplomat 36DS
2014 Honda CRV

 

I like this method. replacing the OSB is cheap, would save a lot of work.

Thanks...

13 hours ago, miacasa_2000 said:

If tackling this yourself do yourself a favor and pick up a cheap air impact chisel gun. Harbor freight has a  kit for $13 . I have used a cheap one for years (automotive work) then last year I did my house hall bath with hammer ,wonder bar etc. and it was horrible . Right now I'm doing my master bath and dreaded taking out the old tile tried the air chisel and couldn't believe I didn't think of it earlier did in 1/2 hr what took all day before. Also doesn't shock the floor as much as blows from the hammer. 

I have one of these, probably a wide, flat chisel for it too.

Thanks...

I saw on another board, that one of those oscillating tools gets under the tiles pretty good. 

Thiughts?

I am thinking about removing the tile flooring in our 2000 Dynasty, replacing with engineered wood or luxury vinyl flooring front to back.

Previous owner took carpet out of front, replaced with a cheap vinyl floor that I want to replace.

They did not remove the front center cabinet, just cut around it. I will fix that also.

I have searched on here, but not found any results, but know many have done this.

Wondering if the tile is under the cabinets?

If there are posts about this I have not found point me there!

Thank You

https://photos.app.goo.gl/YLmrGsaP151zS1DVA

I re-purposed the propane line to my fridge, now that I have a residential.

I put a quick connector, with ball valve, in the bay on the curb side.

I will try to remember to take a pic later today...

On 5/11/2020 at 1:10 PM, Paul A. said:

This is an old post i had filed away, posted by another member. 

In March I requested help with determining the pounds for a "2004" Dynasty engine compartment door but failed to get the information needed, so did my own research and will pass this along for anyone interested. The struts were ordered through Suspa for less monies than some of the other suggested sites.
 
The struts were made by the following:    "2004: Dynasty--Part #C16-12181--150lbs each 
 
Suspa Inc (esupport@suspa-inc.net)
3970 Roger B Chaffee Mem Dr Se
Grand Rapids, MI 49548
616-241-4200

That flexible ducting you are considering replacing causes a huge amount of "air friction"  That's why truckers use rubber fittings and aluminum tubing for the air intake . Here is a link, https://www.intakehoses.com/  to a great site with all the items you need to convert to that. Room may be an issue for you. I did it on a 07 Executive with a ISX 525 Cummins.  

Paul A

I ordered them today.

Thank You.

On 5/11/2020 at 1:10 PM, Paul A. said:

The struts were made by the following:    "2004: Dynasty--Part #C16-12181--150lbs each 
 

Several have said the 150 LBS was too much, so I ordered a pair of the 100 LB ones.

If they prove to not be strong enough, I will go with these.

Thanks for the input, I will post results when  I receive them next week.

8 hours ago, eddie4ne said:

Installed the air intake today. We ended up cutting the 10' in half. It is on but it was a booger to get on the flange of the air filter and upper as well. The diameter is 7"OD and the flanges are 7 ID. The aluminum is quite thin and wanted to rip in the coils. As a reinforcement at both ends we reinforced with gorilla glue duck tape (that is some strong stuff).

I may re-think this option...

Thank You, I will order tonight!

46 minutes ago, erperry_44 said:

Suspa C16-08054 C1608054 20" Gas Prop, Quantity (2), Force 100 Lbs Per Prop, Force Per Set 200 Lbs on Amazon

You find they are a good strength for the cantilevered rear hood?

Thank You

On 5/9/2020 at 9:53 AM, erperry_44 said:

I replaced mine last year. 100#. Got them on Amazon.

Do you happen to have the part number?