Dave Pumphrey
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Posts posted by Dave Pumphrey
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3 hours ago, Duey59 said:
Those that bought the micro-aire thermostat to replace the 5 button did you have to do anything to the original dometic ac/heat pump or aquahot for them to work? Can you replace just one ac in the back and use the micro-wire to control an original and a new dometic ac/heat pump? Thanks I have tried to research and look through all the posts but need some clarification.
2006 Dynasty
I believe that question would be best answered by the manufacturer.
Maybe email or call them to ask, & let us know what they advise.
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On 7/11/2021 at 7:53 AM, BennieH said:
I replaced our 5-button in our Monaco with the Micro-Air. Absolutely some of the best money I've spent on updates. I have a Mobley and the wifi on in the coach all the time. So I always know the status of my ACs. Works flawlessly and I love the easy to read display.
How do you like the mobley? It has it's own data plan?
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I put this in our 2000 Dynasty, but it did not have furnace under it.
It did have a cabinet, which I removed.
Haier 16.4CuFt Quad-Door Counter-Depth Refrigerator in Stainless Steel
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7fsQXKyMM3gmRo9f8
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43 minutes ago, Bill Morgan said:
A 14 gauge wire should be protected by a 15A fuse, 12 gauge 20A, 10 gauge 30A.
These are max loads for given wire size, so the fuse protects the wire.
You would fuse according to the max maps that will be drawn from the circuit.
46 minutes ago, Bill Morgan said:A 14 gauge wire should be protected by a 15A fuse, 12 gauge 20A, 10 gauge 30A.
1 hour ago, Mocephus said:Me too!
Good info! Thank you Dave!
The factory wire from the headlight switch (which I connected to 86 on the relay) is 14 gauge. Could/should I go back with something less than a 10A fuse?
Yes, that was 14 gauge because it was carrying the load of the headlights, this is the problem.
Now it is only triggering the relay, a very small load.
18 gauge wire, 1or 2 amp fuse if you want one, really not needed.
Same for the ground side of the coil, 18 is fine.
A 10 gauge power to relay is a bit overkill, 12 would be plenty.
I would use the 12 to the headlights if you are running new wire to them.
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As pointed out above, no need for 10 gauge to ground pin 85 of relay, it only operates the coil in the relay, 18 is fine for both 85 & 86. 10 is over kill for supply to pin 30, 12 should be sufficient. Might want to use 12 on 87 to feed headlights.
85 & 86 are the low power control circuit of the relay, 30 & 87 are the load circuit.
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I hope I put this under the appropriate heading, please move if better in a different one.
Anyone have a Cricket cart?
Thinking the SX-3 would be the ticket, it will fit in our Scion Xb toad.
Looks like they have been around 14 years or so.
I know carts are not allowed in some parks, & some charge a fee to bring your own.
Most require Liability Insurance, but my agent says only about $50 a year, little more for full coverage.
Thoughts?
Dave P
Glen Burnie, MD
2000 38' Dynasty
2005 Scion Toad.
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As I have a residential fridge, I re-purposed the propane line from the fridge to a valve & coupler in the bay under the fridge, on the curb side.
My fridge does not have an ice maker, so I plan on running the water line to a spigot also on the curb side.
This would be usable when using the onboard tank & pump when on a site without water.
I like to have a hose handy around campfires!
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Anyone camped at Raystown Lake?
Looking at the COE park seven points, can't seem to figure out the reservation system.
You see green dots with numbers, but zoom in, this goes away. I think the numbers are available sites, but in close, not any indication.
Maybe I just don't know how to work the site?
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I open the low point drains after blowing out the lines, so you don't lose the air instead of pushing it up to the faucets.
As to hooking up the air hose, this will help.
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5 hours ago, CRY1942 said:
According to Micro Air this is a Plug & Play replacement.
However, it does NOT work with the Dometic, four button, thermostat. One has to upgrade from the FOUR button thermostat to the FIVE button thermostat and new A/C board(s).
Given the cost to upgrade to the Five Button Thermostat, new A/C Control Boards (2) and the Micro Aire, the total cost was a bit too high for me, although I really like the looks of the Micro Air. I replaced the insides of the Four Button Switches and the thermostat works good as new, so guess I will pass.
Why would you buy a 5 button, just to replace it with the micro aire?
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30 minutes ago, granvillebarker said:
I installed two in my Dynasty about two months ago. They aren great, took less than 5 minutes to install each one.
Are or Aren't?
Maybe a typo?
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While I have not tried them in this application, I have had good success with the fiberglass rods that screw together like these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FS229F/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_9WGYB99A3X0C9MCFM52Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They can hold a pretty good straight path...
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Facebook is where I first saw it also.
I looked at their site.
Looks a lot easier to see.
I like the remote idea.
No reviews on Amazon yet...
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Has anyone tried this new digital thermostat?
It looks good. One issue I wonder about is they say if you replace your A/C units, the new units don't work with the older thermostat.
Wonder if this is the case with these also?
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It would be good to see the receptacle with the cover off to see how it is wired.
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If we had a pic of how the dryer cord is connected to the 50 amp outlet, early on, it would have been cler what we were dealing with. It would still be nice to see it.
It should have one of the hot legs from the cord going to both hot terminals on the outlet, & the ground going to both the neutral & ground terminals. The other hot leg on the cord would not be used.
If the ground wire in the cord is less gauge that the hot wire, that would be the limiting factor in how much can be drawn. If both are 10 gauge, it would be 30 Amps max.
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Put a volt meter between the angled terminals, let us know what you get.
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What is the temperature there?
When I did my first trip after installing my residential Haier in Nov 2019, the temp dropped to the 20's.
I had not blocked the top & bottom vents, & the fridge quit cooling.
I blocked the bottom vents on the access pannel with duct tape on the inside,
& put an incandescent bulb behind the bottom of the fridge.
It was back to working in a couple hours, but not before loosing the ice cream.
I have since closed both top & bottom vents with 2" Styrofoam insulation board.
no more trouble.
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On 2/3/2021 at 7:51 AM, dl_racing427 said:
Not sure how he could do that, short of wiring a hot leg to the neutral.
There's nothing "RV special" about the NEMA 14-50R receptacle.Good to hear back from you.
How about a pic of the dryer outlet you plugged into?
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They probably think their clientele are not DIY types...
Sure be nice if OP would give us an update...
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4 hours ago, Scott and Colleen Miller said:
Thanks for the insights!!!! So, I plugged the fridge into an extension cord and the light and sensor works, but I don’t hear the fan and compressor, so the fridge never cools.
Sensor?
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2 hours ago, dl_racing427 said:
Not sure how he could do that, short of wiring a hot leg to the neutral.
There's nothing "RV special" about the NEMA 14-50R receptacle.My guess is a homemade adapter...
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2 hours ago, dl_racing427 said:
Not sure how he could do that, short of wiring a hot leg to the neutral.
There's nothing "RV special" about the NEMA 14-50R receptacle.I have never seen a dryer with a 50 amp connection, usually 30 amp.
I believe the OP said he plugged in to a 30 amp dryer outlet...
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19 minutes ago, dl_racing427 said:
Not sure how he could do that, short of wiring a hot leg to the neutral.
There's nothing "RV special" about the NEMA 14-50R receptacle.He connected to a 30 amp dryer outlet, not a 50.
We await his response
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Micro-air Thermostat
in AC, Heating, and Cooling
Posted
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