Joel Sheriff

It wasn't the slide in it was the actual. Body of the bar hitch attached to the coach The slide in stayed attached

MODERATOR EDIT…. Talked to Joel for clarification. The OEM Monaco Receiver hitch failed. The failure point was a few inches behind or towards the Engine, the tube on the receiver snapped. The extender, which was also secured, I think, with a hitch tightener, came off and the rupture point was about where the entender’s draw bar was inserted. I had already contacted a Roadmaster Engineer, that I had worked with. After I got the details from Joel, he called back. So it was NOT a Roadmaster Tow Bar failure. He recommended a large Roadmaster dealer in Redlands CA, which is near Joel. Redlands Trucking. If anyone has another resource for Joel to contact, please PM him. He needs a NEW MH Hitch….and obviously installed by a trusted and competent dealer. Here is Joel’s post which he asked me to clarify….. Making a turn in California my 07 Diplomat trow bar snapped like I've never seen before. Car doing 3 mph around turn hit another work van and stopped immediately but hitch and tow bar gone. Ever see something like this? Also where best place to get Rv tow bar replaced and examined for carriage damage?20221215_132053.heic

To help finalize this long thread, my 15amp fuse in the back closet that was shorting the bed actuator is done. After some travel and movement of the slide, I tried the fuse again and it didn't short. I got the actuator to raise and I found the wires crimped in the slide mechanism. Cut, sliced and tapped the wires and disconnected the actuator. Stupid me it was a 110 hookup made an extension to plug in only to fry the motor of a12v actuator. $46 mistake but livable. Buying another actuator 12v with a converter to 110 to use an external plug unless someone has an easy way of finding a 12v power wire near the bed to eliminate the converter. Again folks, this site has educated and afforded me invaluable information I'm very grateful.

I did respond with a final outcome I hoped it posted. There were so many great responses and after some thorough research on Tom's and many other responses I got the issue resolved. If need be I can post again the final outcome. Thanks all again for saving my butt and a lot of money.

Just a thought, for future reference. The Intellect indicator light was on in the bottom left corner. I pulled the fuses the light went out. I replaced the fuse the light went back on and the shed lights worked. No more than 3 min elapsed is it possible that just that fuse reset the system? Just thought for people who may have to reset the EMS down the road. To try that fuse first! The fuse I was initially looking at was the 15 Amp in the closet box #5 down. That's the short issue with the bed. Tom brought the 3amp to my attention the other day in inside the Intellec box

Tom, et al, to put a lid on this topic, 10 minutes before the tech came in I was going to assist with time saving measures meaning I was going to do the simple unplug, shut the genny breaker, close down the main power and pull the fuses. Upon taking off the EMS brown cover I saw the (3amp) 5 Amp fuse in my ems right on front. It looked OK but did ad Tom said replace anyway. That was my first task and upon replacement the board Lit up like a XMas tree, all shed lites on as well as all power restored. Tom I'm very grateful for your time and research effort on my behalf and only wish future issues are this simple. I replaced and am replacing my fuses with ones that glow if blown. Idiot fuses for an idiot. This forum is so helpful and thanks all for their input again. I can't tell you how much over the years you all have taught me about Rv's. Have a wonderful day and holiday season. Just a thought, for future reference. The Intellect indicator light was on in the bottom left corner. I pulled the fuses the light went out. I replaced the fuse the light went back on and the shed lights worked. No more than 3 min elapsed is it possible that just that fuse reset the system? Just thought for people who may have to reset the EMS down the road. To try that fuse first!

I'm sorry with all that's happening to this rough I may have forgotten to resound. I did find the fuse and it was OK. The tech went directly to the pump and got wired it from the batteries and it didn't respond. He replaced the pump and all is well. Thank you all and sorry for the delay in advising outcome. Joel

Tom very thorough and doable. I ordered a box of fuses from Amazon here today I have a tech coming out tomorrow. You are spot on with everything you said and I'm going to go through that with the tech assuming he's not as knowledgeable as you on this area. Nice guy but limited. I will do all your steps and I can't thank you enough for all the time you put into this. If anyone has to add fine but I will not be posting until solved I have enough to go on. Again thanks all for the advise... Joel

I agree but when he put in the accuator he did identify fuse 5 as the power supplying the actuator. I have to check the 14 fuse as suggested. If I can get the board shed powered I can live with that the under bed unless a true short, I'm not giving a priority. Thanks will post results

I understand Tom but I still have to get under the bed to trace the line he used. That's an ordeal to cut thru the bed bar or platform. I'll let you know when I'm there. What do you mean "sneekcircuit".

I'll be checking #14 see for certain. As for the front fluorescent the is a wall toggle in the bedroom as well as the entrance toggle running that one light so they may have something under the bed for that box? As for genny, already done and gen overrides all and the shed lights on board all light, the ac and hwh all work on genny power. Have been using propane for hwh and furnace for heat. Haven't needed thank goodness. In high desert near Palmdale CA so evenings are in the 40's. So far no error codes on hwh50 120 to122 coming in both legs. All breakers have been reset including the main. Micro and entire galley work fine. All inverter plugs working including bathroom GFCI. Everything still sees to lead to short under bed in the actuator. Am going to cut through platform to pull pin holding the actuator bar and release platform. Thanks and to be continued.

To continue, I moved to a different space in the park with a50 Amp pedestal. I plugged in and the shed lights on the EMS board are still out. Is it possible it wasn't the power line and is the #5 fuse in the closet that's powering the bar Puck lights and front fluorescent as well as where I think the short is coming from under the bed by the actuator. We thought the low volt pedestal was the culprit? Guess not the only culprit. Agree or other thoughts?

To continue, flipped the switch on the bar lights and front fluorescent and its still immediately upon the two blades touching blows the fuse. It has to be the actuator so now I have to figure out how to get under the bed with an the actuator connected but not raised and no power. Looks like I'm cutting a hole in the bed to undo the pins holding the rod. I'll keep you posted. Thank all for the assistance I know exactly where the actuator is positioned. I'm going to take my multi tool and cut a small square in the base and try to pull the pin holding the actuator in place the just straight irons to put the square back on under the mattress. A PIA but doable. I'm also almost certain I have switched off the few lights that were on that circuit. I hope. To be continued. Thanks again all, will post detailed resolution

As for the other question about the ac. Yes it was the fan motor and capacitor and yes he tested it because his first attempt didn't work so he found a loose ground and wired properly then tested and it worked fine. Only after I found the inverter breaker off and reset everything did the #5 15amp see blow and caused the issue. The bar Puck lights go out with the same fuse. Tom I've checked the other fluorescent lights in gallery, they work, front entry ceiling fluorescent is out and bar Puck lights are out. All other bathroom bedroom etc fluorescents are on. So the isolation is the front fluorescent and Puck lights and evidently he found that line under the bed that feeds those fixtures. So 1,2,3 as you described I'll close the two fixtures isolating the actuator under the bed which I can't get to because the actuator isn't responding. If the fuse blows with the actuator being the only thing on. I got my answer. As for the lights and ems issue. I unplugged the shore power put on the genny and it seems to be fine. All shed lights are on and getting proper genny power. I don't understand though. They got the power up to 121 volts at the pedestal and my progressive ind protector isn't giving any fault codes but it still isn't working at the pedestal with a full 30 amps... Any suggestions other than moving from this spot to a different one to see if it works. To continue, flipped the switch on the bar lights and front fluorescent and its still immediately upon the two blades touching blows the fuse. It has to be the actuator so now I have to figure out how to get under the bed with an the actuator connected but not raised and no power. Looks like I'm cutting a hole in the bed to undo the pins holding the rod. I'll keep you posted. Thank all for the assistance

Newest occurrence, went to replace the #5 fuse and it's shorting out. Blew two fuses. That's not good meaning there is a short somewhere in that line that the 5 fuse provides protection for? Yes it sparks and blows as soon as I touch the second prong of the fuse. I had an actuator put under my bed to help lift for storage area as it's getting to heavy. I put a toggle switch on the outside board and it was wired in to the wiring near the slide motor the guy found a positive and ground and spliced in . I think the guy may not have protected the wiring as well as it should have been and since it's under the bed I can't get to it since the actuator is in the closed position with no power going to it. The old rock and hard place. I need to some how jump that fuse get the actuator powered for a few seconds raise the bed and relocate the original wires. They may be shorting the fuse. I can't think of anything else, Nothing is newly wired or changed except the acuator. Can a shorted fuse be jumped without burning down the house? As for the other question about the ac. Yes it was the fan motor and capacitor and yes he tested it because his first attempt didn't work so he found a loose ground and wired properly then tested and it worked fine. Only after I found the inverter breaker off and reset everything did the #5 15amp see blow and caused the issue. The bar Puck lights go out with the same fuse. As for the other question about the ac. Yes it was the fan motor and capacitor and yes he tested it because his first attempt didn't work so he found a loose ground and wired properly then tested and it worked fine. Only after I found the inverter breaker off and reset everything did the #5 15amp see blow and caused the issue. The bar Puck lights go out with the same fuse.

The panel in the closet has 14 fuses (attached) the 5 fuse when blown also took out my bar Puck light. Both of them at once. Can't this box be part of the EMS panel if it takes out those lights and other labeled uses? Just asking Newest occurrence, went to replace the #5 fuse and it's shorting out. Blew two fuses. That's not good meaning there is a short somewhere in that line that the 5 fuse provides protection for?

I understand it all thanks and I've turned everything off so I only had about a 2 Amp draw on the meter. But... I just noticed I have a fuse in the closet behind the EMS labeled. Water pump and monitor panel... Could that panel mean ems panel and if so it was blown. I have to go to ace to get the fuse it's the larger one not the mini and I ran out replacing the last one this week. I'll keep this forum posted. Again thanks

Ok, got a lot of info to try, I'll get to it in the next day or so ok so far with using propane. I'm in a 30 amp space so I will only get my 120 on reading the pedestal. I will shut everything down as suggested. I'll also read the difference when genny is on. Thanks all I'll report findings when done. I do have my engine block heater breaker off but it's been off since I bought the coach in 07. I'll turn it on as well Ok something new for thought... I didn't start the genny because I was still hooked up to shore but I did activate the prime down toggle and I heard a click on the back EMS and the lights on the shed side came alive. It read 50 Amp all lights on and 8 all draw but I didn't kick on the genny. I'll do that but wanted group to add this info to the hopper. Thanks Ok something new for thought... I didn't start the genny because I was still hooked up to shore but I did activate the prime down toggle and I heard a click on the back EMS and the lights on the shed side came alive. It read 50 Amp all lights on and 8 all draw but I didn't kick on the genny. I'll do that but wanted group to add this info to the hopper. Thanks

I had my air conditioner motor and capacitor replaced. The tech inadvertently turned off my inverter breaker and when I realized the breaker was off I turned it back on, I heard a lot of clicking and when I checked the EMS board I noticed that I wasn't getting any lights on the shedding side of the panel. I reset the inverter I unplugged and replugged the communication plug and I reset the pedestal breaker. I also tried the inverter and main breakers on the panel. I'm still not getting any lights or communication on the EMS panel and it's not allowing my air system and my hot water system to operate. Originally the Amp usage read 50A being used and 30 Amp incoming electrical power. After a few resets it shows the true Amp usage at 2 to 3 amps in having to use propane for heat and hot water. I'm also only getting 113A from the pedestal. I think I've tried everything but with my limited knowledge I'm asking this panel what I should continue to check. Thanks in advance

This topic was double posted and has been merged. The Headlight issue is not germane to the topic title. Request that OP, Joel Sheriff not double post. If this is an issue, then research and search here….and then, if necessary, post a new topic. MODERATOR EDIT I found a fuse in the closet behind the EMS for the water pump. Is there another fuse on our near the pump itself either in line or on pump in the water bay? Also is there more than one fuse for the headlights other than front bay under drivers seat. Headlights went out after just putting on highbeams and the switch was just replaced.

Found a 10 Amp in rear bedroom closet will check that one and look for others. Thanks son its coming to the rescue to bend for me. Changing location of pump is an excellent idea

My biggest issue getting down into the bay where the pump is. It's below my hose reel in back of the bay next to the dump handles and water Evac pvc. I don't see a fuse in my bedroom closet next to the main ems circuit breakers. I didn't see a designation for water pump in my main panel under the driver's seat bay either. Am I missing something? Sorry it's my back and flexibility that prevents me. From being more proactive not the brain Yet Found a 10 Amp in rear bedroom closet will check that one and look for others. Thanks soon its coming to the rescue to bend for me.

My water pump just quit. No signs no noise just dead. Any fuse because I can't find one listed. Any other go too before calling to have it replaced. I can't get down there to diy. Am currently hooked to shore water. 07 Diplomat PAQ. Pump in back of water bay under hose reel.

my 07 Diplomat lights over my bar area both cut out at the same time. I'm thinking switch not bulbs. Also is there a link to Amazon for the right switch I've noticed different backs. Are they blade or in a couplar just wires? . Before I take it off. Any help. Thx Joel

I just had my headlight switch assembly replaced. It was not easy. We couldn't get my flashers to work after the switch broke off the assembly comes with a new one attached but non working in my case, not the fuse. To get the signal arm off you have to move that silver pin because the turn arm locks in place once inserted. Really not fun to try and get out. Not a simple twist and turn. Then good luck finding a new arm if you can't get it out. They don't have just replacement arms and the turn signal module doesn't come with an arm. Sorry all the info I have