Joel Sheriff

Tom, as usual you make total sense and have the issue spot on. I Did not use a soft start on the rear unit but I did add an hd capacitor in line with the standard capacitor. Did not try the added capacitor kit on the front unit yet. Since the rear is for all intent fried I may take that capacitor off and try on the front which just started the spiking of power. The both capacitors were recently changed so they are good as I know it. I'll have them checked again. The front had a motor and capacitor changed within the last year. Don't really want to invest in the softstart but have made and awaiting answers on replacement of both to the upgraded dometic low profile heat pumps with the electronic 10 button thermostat. The gfi when not using air units, is fine with all other appliances even upwards of 40 amps usage no issues with gfi. Looks like it's total replacement at this juncture. I'll keep the lines open with revolution.

When I tried the Gen 50amp power not shore I was getting reading on the EMS board. It would start up at 17 or up to 20 amps then spike to 40,50 or higher when compressor tried to kick in and when spiking high enough it blows the breaker from front air and the GFCI when rear air starts. Rear air does the same spiking of power it starts at 16 or 17 amps then spikes higher? Gfi you're correct was replaced with the compatible gfi for my system. One that tech replaced didn't work with my unit so you mentioned a while ago the compatible names of some companies. My ac is a single 20 amp breaker each not GFCI and I changed out front breaker and it still occurred. Yes the gfci receptacle

I'm still having issues with rear ac unit now front 15k unit is doing same kicking off breaker or GFCI under load. Spiking between 16 amp and 50 amp when compressor tried to kick in after startup. Want to replace both and would appreciate suggestions on good tech or shop to do replacement. I'm in SoCal but will travel if worth the trip. I'm done fixing want to replace. Should I invest in good electrician first to see if it's electrical? I replaced the breaker for the front, and gfci didn't work with new breaker either. But I'm concerned that both ac''s are reacting at the same time. Could it be coach electrical before replacing $5k in ac' s?

So sorry, this is almost as tough losing a furbaby as any member of the family. They give so much, 100%of their love and only ask for a little in return. My baby cece, Shishon, 12 yo is my current love and wish for 20 plus years of friendship but that's asking a lot. All I want is for her to be comfortable and I'm happy. Your baby will always be in your heart. 💕

Thanks and problem solved. I reset ems board, found a loose but connected breaker, changed 3amp ems fuse even though read good. Turned all breakers off for a few minutes then rest everything and done. All shed lights on.

I am going to reset the ems board as number one issue either by unplugging the entire board or resetting the entire coach. Yes I have 50 amp coming in from pedestal and board shows 50 amp but is shedding all but bottom 2 lights so I am losing my hwh (4th position on shed). Thanks Joel I am going to reset the ems board as number one issue either by unplugging the entire board or resetting the entire coach. Yes I have 50 amp coming in from pedestal and board shows 50 amp but is shedding all but bottom 2 lights so I am losing my hwh (4th position on shed). Thanks Joel

My newest problem is they just put a heavy duty capacitor on my AC because my compressor is going and it took care of some of the problem but the compressor is bad But now turns over. That being said they worked on the electrical system when doing the air conditioning and now in a 50 amp space my EMS board sheds everything except the bottom two AC and washer dryer I can't take the washer dryer out of the shedding without doing all the stuff that's necessary to change that board but I'm getting no EMS signal to my hot water heater and it shows 50 amp coming in but only two lights on the shedding side of the EMS. Picture to follow I turned off and on all Breakers and when I turn off the hot water heater breaker the board shows 30 amp it kicks it down from 50 amp all the others are fine when I turn them off turn them back on they show no change in power but the hot water heater breaker somehow changes the incoming Shore power distribution light to 30 amp from 50 amp. I'm stumped on this one please, as usual, HELP.... JOEL 20230405_195932.heic

Yes, the GFI, GFCI, I'm talking about is the receptacle there is no other GFI in the coach. This one come right off the inverter side and covered the bathroom and galley. I'm am concerned with the original install of the motor not that it's the wrong motor. Thank you again for this current problem assistance.

Tom, understood. I stopped using the unit except for the furnace. I only turned it on to show the tech. He's the one who suggested changing out the GFI. I will take this off line to further explore. I have the wiring diagram from before. I use the bed actuator and no issue with GFI. It is the rear dometic 13.5 unit, front works fine 15k. I have to possibly take exception to it being wired correctly since when the tech put in the new motor it initially didn't run and he had to go back up to find a loose ground from replacement. A little scary. Tom, as usual, you are a plethora of info on this stuff and your opinion is law in my book. Thanks again, I may be looking for a new tech to troubleshoot this problem.

I was dumb that day and trusted my bud in Az to give his part guy the info I sent him and the motor would be the right one, the same as the label I posted. I had a tech in Socal where I was put it in. The ac and heat worked, fan blows but then it engaged the compressor out heat pump it kick off the GFI. Yes it was similar with a new capacitor. Again I used the tag inside of unit, attached, to order the right motor. Could it be a bad or weak gfi? The GFI works fine with fine with evening else on it. Doesn't fault with anything but the dometic

I had a Blower motor & capacitor changed out a short while ago. I ordered the motor from a tech friend in AZ off the info inside the dometic low profile 13,500 unit. Since the motor change, my GFI outlet pops every time I turn on heat or ac. Could it be the motor was the wrong one or is my GFI not handling the load? Any help would be appreciated.

Finally a solution to the split hitch and runaway toad in Simi Valley CA. Attached are the pix of the Welding that was done at Riverside Hitch in Riverside CA. Recommended by Redlands Rv who was recommended by A Roadmaster acquaintance of Tom Cherry. Geico isn't paying for receiver but they covered the vehicle and tow bar and rewire. I'm still yelling at geico. Riverside did a great job @ a final cost for the weld of just under $1600 complete. 20230207_151405.heic

Simple this time,.. Can I test the circuit in the fuse box for the over door awning that stopped working with a regular 15 Amp fuse when that is run S with a relay 15 a fuse? The motor is new, are there any others fuses to to at?

Next step folks. Refereed to Riverside Hitch in Riverside CA. They are anticipating replacement of hitch receiver on monaco chassis. They think, without seeing it, that they may need to reinforce. Cost for job between $2000 & $2500 max. Is that low fair, high? Opinions welcome. Appt one day in and out. Will keep posted on outcome. Thanks again Thank you guys, good advise and I'll check the 12-15k replacements. They did get a bunch of pix from the shop Wayne recommended. Two people took pix and called and sent them to Riverside Hitch. I'll get their quote and before going there I'll check another independent shop and a camping world that just opened (took over) Richardsons Rv in Sun City. Thanks all JOEL

Next step folks. Refereed to Riverside Hitch in Riverside CA. They are anticipating replacement of hitch receiver on monaco chassis. They think, without seeing it, that they may need to reinforce. Cost for job between $2000 & $2500 max. Is that low fair, high? Opinions welcome. Appt one day in and out. Will keep posted on outcome. Thanks again

Next question. Went to Redlands Truck per Tom via Wayne's suggestion. They can't fix and are sending me to a hitch shop in Riverside (riverside hitch) they said they will do everything? Is this, Tom, still your recommendation or is there someone out there with a known hitch shop to replace the receiver. They said Welding is not my option?? Comments please, this is getting passed around. Thanks all again and again. Still in Socal near Temecula and LA.

Roger that, on the Welding shop. Thanks for the Welding info, helpful when they give their recommendations. Keeping all posted on outcome after the fact. May be a couple of weeks. Thanks again Tom et al for the help

won't have room to put the collar on I'm going to have to get a shop to properly weld this unit. 20221215_132053.heic

Point well taken Tom, I figured that was going to be the answer but I had to ask anyway, maybe for a comical retort or go ahead.... You have me the Truck company in Redlands CA. I have a man 10th appt with them from Wayne's and your suggestion. Thanks again, your advice is invaluable

Except for the fact geico won't pay for receiver stress break they are covering tow bar, base plates and any hidden damage not yet diagnosed. Some good thoughts on this discussion as to placement of safety chains, brake release etc. Thanks all. Now to get it fixed... Question, can I take the remaining receiver with the 3 inches broken off and drill a new hole to connect the hitch pin without Welding on the extra length of receiver hitch that sheared off. May sound crazy but structurally it seems sound. Would Welding be as strong or still a weak spot?

Add fluid with Jack's in up position otherwise it will pump out as overfill if Jack's are down when filling.

Nothing homemade... All Monaco installed and Roadmaster bar. All safety cables tow brake etc installed. Not a break at a weld joint just a stress fracture from use. I had a hitch tightener to prevent up and down excess motion. That was installed 2 years ago after 13 years of use without. I didn't see any visable cracks or stress on metal surface albeit the crack seemed to have started on the under section of the 2"receiver installed by Monaco. I don't know how this could be avoided except the good ideas that are coming from this thread like moving the safety chains, brakeaway cable etc. Keep up with the comments, I think we can all learn from this situation.

In response to a few, I noticed weathering on the lower quarter of the 2" receiver. The two vertical.and top horizontal quarters were a clean break so it looks like even on inspection, it would have been almost impossible to see long term wear. I have, in the past, checked for unusual play but never noticed anything unusual. And yes, new on the checklist 2014 CR-V with relatively new base plate & Roadmaster tow bar.

Tom, my brake wire was wrongfully tethered to the back of the hitch bar not the coach itself. Mistake number one but the tow brake wouldn't have done much since the vehicle only slid about 10 ft from coach before hitting and stopping at only 3mph. My two safety chaines were from towbar to vehicle. Could have been dramatically worse, highway or crowded street or mall location. Got really lucky. Having trouble uploading other pix. Will try a different way. 20221215_132112.heic 20221215_132053.heic 20221215_132053.heic 20221215_124858.heic

113k on coach note than half tow miles. It's a new roan master but original tow bar on Rv