Jeff H

On 4/25/2024 at 5:40 AM, glang11082 said:

I would use 1/4 inch clean Lexan as it much harder to  break than regular plexiglass, we used it to make motorcycle windshields years ago and the never broke or cracked

Look into Rock Glass or Riot Glass (Benefits of Polycarbonate Glazing (riotglass.com) If you are going the lexan route.  It is Lexan with a proprietary coating that is much more sccrath resistant.  Paper towel wil scratch uncoated lexan  

On 4/24/2024 at 10:59 AM, Kenster said:

I'm still suffering from sticker shock. One piece of tempered glass at 15 and a quarter inch by 62 and a half inch is going to cost $600 by the time it's delivered.

Where are you?  Are they matching the pattern?  

I can get you 4mm Tempered Rain Glass FOB my shop in Thunder Bay, On for $120.00 CAD.  Crating and shipping will be more than the glass and you might be getting close to the $600.00 mark

Thanks guys I will check it out

Hello

Any Canadians using The TSD card?  How did you dea with the US bank requirement?

I am thinking of getting an online US bank account.  Any recommendations for online banks?

On 2/17/2022 at 7:08 AM, Wheelsnkeels said:

This is the best solution after replacing the scissor stop multiple times. We installed the gas strut a couple years ago not only is it a dramatic improvement over the original. It also eliminated a significant amount of road noise emanating from the door area. 
 

the scissor assembly was bouncing in the area above the door making quite a racket. 

I agree.  I changed mine out to the gas strut and the door works much better, even sounds more solid when it closes.

7 hours ago, Steve P said:

Please share what Gen of Starlink "dish" you have and what service/price plan you subscribe to.  That wil help prevent responses that don't apply to you and your situation. 

I have the Gen 2 router and dish ($599 plus shipping), and my service plan is Mobile-Regional (Roam) at $150/month. 

At the very least, it looks like the Flat High Performance Starlink panel and the addition of Mobile Priority service (billed per Gbyte of data usage would be needed to have data connectivity while on the roll.  And the service plan mentions speeds less than 10mph.  If that's true, Mobile Priority service hardly seems worth the bother. 

Does anyone use Starlink in Motion that can advise?  What dish/panel?  What plan(s)?

I have a 2nd Gen router and dish with the Roam service plan.

Here is a video with a Gen 1 dish at 80 MPH: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8PDVURcvWeg&ab_channel=MikeOnSpace,  He mentions in the video, and it makes a lot of sense, that it would work in motion because the satellites are moving far faster than a vehicle is even capable of.  The 10MPH is most likely a regulatory limit rather than a physical/technological one

Hello all

I flat-mounted the original dish to the roof using an after-market case by Star-Mount Systems: https://star-mountsystems.com/.  They aren't cheap but they are well made and quite waterproof.  Star Mount Systems was started by a guy who wanted to livestream his Baja racing. There are lots of DIY videos online on how to modify the dish to flat-mount.  I removed the satellite dish (that we never used) and used the cable as a pull wire to run the Starlink cable.

We used it on a trip from Canada to Texas and had reception everywhere as long as the panel could see the sky.  Speeds did vary depending on how many other dishes were looking for a connection nearby.  I forgot to turn it off when traveling a few times.  Once on arrival, it had to be reset; it continued to work the other times.  

I had a leak on my 400 ISL, but it got worse as the engine got hot.  There was about 1/2" of one gasket missing and damage to another.  The manifold was warped.  Being on the road and not having tools or time to deal with broken bolts I went to Cummins in El Paso.  Not cheap but they were very good, got me in right away, had a place with power for us to park over night.  I soaked the manifold bolts with PB Blaster a couple times a day for a couple days before we brought it in.  All the manifold bolts came out.  2 of the bolts in the turbo that I didn't soak (duh) did break so it seems like the oil helps. 

Apparently warped exhaust manifolds are quite common on the ISL

My Dryer is midship between the bathroom and the bedroom across from the shower.

There is a drawer under the dryer that I removed this morning.  The floor is plywood supported by 1" x 1"s.  Not the greatest but there is no sign of bowing or that the 1x1s have moved.  There is a "frame" at the back to support the drawer glides that has one screw in the floor that appears to have backed itself out.  This will provide a bit of support at the back of the cabinet but not significant.  I will refasten the screw (or maybe fasten for the first time??????) and think about how to brace the back of the cabinet a bit better,

I have ordered some anti vibration pads to see if that will help 

Thank you all for the suggestions.  I will Have a look at the floor and take the cabinet apart.  In the meantime I bought som vibration pads on Amazon to see if that will make a difference.

Our Splendide Washer/Dryer shakes the whole coach when it is spinning and is very noisy.  Has anyone had a similar issue and solved it?

7 hours ago, klcdenver said:

Glad you are rolling again. What did you use for penetrating oil? It worked well if all the manifold bolts came out with any breaking.

I had some Sea Foam Deep Creep and then got some PB Blaster after reading othe r comments.

Drove from El Paso to Tucson.  Mileage has improved compared to the going back to June.  Perhaps it is my imagination to help justify the cost but the bottom end seems better too.

UPDATE

It was #3 cylinder leaking, there was a small leak on 5 I think.  The manifold was out of spec so it was replaced.  The bolts in the turbo were seized and had to be drilled out.  Coincidently they were the only ones I didn't put penetrating oil on. Total was $3000.00 which hurts but on the road and not having time or tools to deal with seized bolts I will suck it up.  If I was at home with time and tools then I would have done it myself.

Everyone at Cummins El Paso was extremely friendly and kind.  They have a nice lounge and 3 RV Parking spots with power.  They bought us lunch the first day and I'm sure if we were hanging out in the lounge they would have the 2nd day too.  Very professional and went to great lengths to explain what was going on.

Since we are on the road, I contacted Cummins in El Paso and they can get me in tomorrow.

17 hours ago, klcdenver said:

Yes it can. Take a good look at it and look for the leak if you have one. There are some temp band aid fixes. Some high heat exhaust heat tape wrap and some products like JB Weld. It could be just an exhaust gasket also that could be replaced in El Paso. Be sure and check around turbo also.

Did you check idler arm when it was hot? Metal expands when hot. If cold it might not drag as bad. Be sure and check alternator and A/C clutch to spin freely. Another thing that can make those noises is a u-joint on the drive shaft. Can you rev motor in park and duplicate the noise? 

Yes it will make the noise in park.

Just took a look at the exhaust manifold and it is leaking between the manifold and the engine

12 minutes ago, myrontruex said:

As mentioned, the fan may not have a clutch. My 2008 Endeavor does not.

I believe changing the idler pulley is recommended at a certain point. I have not changed mine but only have 55K miles on the coach. I have changed the belt and the fan itself long long ago with one from Source Engineering. The fan is far quieter and eats up a lot less hp. It is substantial. I did acceleration testing before and after. My mileage increased and the noise dropped 5 db at the rear of the RV.

How much of a job was the fan change?  Did you fdo it yourself? 

It has been suggested and I think correctly that it is the exhaust manifold. I will have a look today and see if I can see anything. 

Hi

I recently had to change the alternator in my 06 Diplomat (which I think is the same as the Endeavor) .  See the help I received below and the replacement I used.

Scotty was a big help.  The alternator is not a DUVAC type.  

Ok

We are in Alamogordo now.  The plan is to go to El Paso Tuesday and Tucson Thursday.  Can it be driven with a cracked exhaust manifold?

A new noise started when we went from Albuquerque to Carlsbad.  it changes with RPMS, worst around 1600RPM when accelerating.  It isn't as bad when cruising at hwy speed but is noticeable.  It doesn't seem to change with the boost.  I tried to spin the fan after we stopped for the night it was stiff until I took tension off the belt then it spun easily.  I turned the tensioner pulley and it seemed to turn easily.  The belt does not appear to be damaged.

I am wondering if it is the fan clutch.  If it is and the clutch fails completely does that mean the fan will just turn with the engine regardless.  We climbed almost 4000 ft today and as long as I took it easy and stayed in a lower gear there was no issues with heat.  210 was the highest I saw.

9 hours ago, philcarrell said:

Welcome to Carlsbad hope you enjoy your stay

Thank you Phil

It has been quite nice.  We love the park in town and have walked around the lake everyday.  Thinking we will go fo a hike today and then go see the bats this evening.

8 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Roswell - Red Barn RV Park.  Had great WiFi.  You can drive (maybe an hour) to Carlsbad.  Check their website.  I THINK the Bats migrate now.....in that they fly out in mass....as in the sky is sort of darkened at night from the Caverns and go out and do what "Bats Do At Night".  Really a great event....if you like to see Nature.

Our trip down to Carlsbad from Roswell was delayed....  There is a 4 lane highway....and an individual and his GF got into a TIFF.  He threw her out of the car....literally and fired a few shots at her and she ran.  Then he barricaded himself in the car and it took the hostage negotiators several hours to convince him to come out, unarmed.  The HP shut off both sides and we were routed, fortunately in the TOAD, on some very picturesque town and countryside.....  Thus the adventures of traveling.  It was about this same time in 2013....as we had attended the ABQ Balloon Festival and spent time later in Santa Fe and then drove south to Roswell and headed for Abilene on our way home...

Yes we are at Carlsbad right now At the Carlsbad RV Park.  It is an old KOA.  Very nice spot in a new spot.  We were the first to pull in so the owner was glad to see I was able to pull in no problem.  We came here from the balloon festival.  That was amazing to see.

We went to t he caves today and we will go back for the bats tomorrow.  We are going to go to Alamogordo Sunday for a couple nights then to El Paso for a couple nights then to Tucson for a bit then we are going to hike down to the bottom of the grand canyon and spend the night.

Thank you all

The Garmin RV1090 will show an elevation profile and the shortr route does have a steeper descent.  The tunnel looks do able from the picture but I think I would want to be over the center line.  Roswell it is!

And thanks for the advice on things to do.  Any recommendations on parks?

Hello

Has anyone gone from Carlsbad to Alamogordo.  My Garmin is saying to go north to Roswell and then across 380/70.  Google says to go Artesia and across 82.  I assume there is a low tunnel or some other reason not to go the shorter route.  How are the climbs?

1 hour ago, Doug Hoegh said:

Jeff

im using the Polk Audio RCi60’s. I had to hog out the ceiling round hole a bit, but install went quite easy. Monaco glued in a second piece of 1/2” plywood above the ceiling plywood and on most I still had a slim piece of the backer.  Regardless they snugged up tight with wood screws. For the time being I’m running without a subwoofer. Sound is still quite good.  I’ve contemplated a couple of ideas for a sub.  A 12 volt driven mini sub mounted behind the double doors in the center console.  Pull out the drawers and you’ll see a lot of room.  Or put a 120 volt powered sub left of the driver chair.  It would be stored during travel.  For ventilation I added a couple of computer fans in the back of the cabinet and I bought a fan unit that sits on top of the amp, but I still had my first one act up from the heat. I’ve now replaced the first with a new amp and I’m still kicking around ideas to dissipate the heat. I’m thinking about adding holes with vents on the leafy, right, and bottom of the cabinet.  I few years ago I knew a guy that added 4 all thread rods with a wood shelf hanging below the cabinet to hold a very large Sony amp with success. Here’s a photo of my setup without the added fan unit sitting on the amp.  It’s tight. By the way I also have a 06 Diplomat but a PBT three slide unit.

I thought mine were right side up but they all ended up sideways. 

12 minutes ago, Doug Hoegh said:

Jeff I’m late to this party, but curious where you placed your new AV amp?  I use the compact Marantz that fits in the cabinet, but found that it was overheating from the tight enclosed space. Now considering other location options.  And you are correct, the Magnadyne speakers are 6 ohm and a not very good product. I changed mine to Polk Audio 8 ohm speakers and very happy.  

Hi Doug

I put it in the same cabinet the original was in  I made some legs for the DVD player to lift it off the A/V amp.  I realized last night that the Remote won't work with the cabinet door closed so I will probably put some thing under the A/V Amp to give it a bit more air circulation although leaving the door open when it is in use is probably not a bad idea either.

What model of Polk Audio speaker did you use?  Was it a powered Sub?